DuncanS 0 Posted January 28, 2009 Hi Was out at Ras Mohammed and we moored up for lunch in Marsa Breika (deep bay) for lunch, was bored so hopped in with camera to have a play with under/over shots. Surface was flat but there was a small swell. Subject wise there was the boat and the mooring line and then just the deep below. Ignoring subject selection, I noticed a few problems: 1. Big diference between light levels above and below water - I have seen you can get split ND filters but I guess you have to decide the orientation of the picture before hand. Would you use a strobe to boost the underwater exposure? 2. There is a water mark on the Dome, is there a way to reduce this (obviously a flat still day would help.....) Ta Duncan Canon 10-22 @10mm ISO100, f14,1/60 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stefin 0 Posted January 28, 2009 1. Big diference between light levels above and below water - I have seen you can get split ND filters but I guess you have to decide the orientation of the picture before hand. Would you use a strobe to boost the underwater exposure? I have been thinking about split ND / split dioptre filters and how to move them when inside the housing. Has anyone tried attaching a small weight to the outer rim of the filter so that when you rotate the housing the weight swivels the filter to landscape/portrait? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vazuw 1 Posted January 29, 2009 I do alot of these. The best ones are in the shallowest water where the exposure difference between above and below is the least. Another condition that helps is early or late light, or a cloudy day where the exposure difference is less. In the example I'm laying in 2 to 3 feet of water. The best tip is practice ALOT Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gciavarella 0 Posted January 29, 2009 shallow water Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tdpriest 115 Posted January 29, 2009 ... would you use a strobe to boost the underwater exposure... ... there is a water mark on the Dome, is there a way to reduce this... Flat calm; big dome; wide, wide lens; shallow; strobes if there is a foreground subject... Sigma 4.5mm, twin strobes, Scotland. ... and I still use Photoshop to edit out some of the droplets on the dome! Detergent and anti-fog have been suggested, but aren't that friendly to the environment (and maybe not that friendly to o-rings). Nikon 10.5mm, ambient light, Sipadan. Tim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davichin 18 Posted January 29, 2009 The bigger dome the better, the wider the lens the better too. Spitting or sucking the dome works pretty well against watermark. Another typical problem is the lack of enough depth of field for close-underwater-subject/far-top-backgrund so using a higher ISO will allow you to use a smaller aperture. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marjo 8 Posted January 30, 2009 2) I've got one word for you: Pledge! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
james 0 Posted January 30, 2009 Split diopters are cool, but they are only applicable in a pool or a sheltered water. The line has to be lined up right at the waterline - which is not easy - I've used one before. you can get up to 72mm from B&H if you want to give it a try. Cheers James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
photovan 0 Posted January 30, 2009 Ages ago I used to use a subal split filter that was bottom half +3 diopter / top half ND for half and halfs. that was before big domes came along. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
photovan 0 Posted January 30, 2009 I've posted this picture of my over/under dome before, but for those that missed it... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tdpriest 115 Posted January 30, 2009 ... the bigger dome the better, the wider the lens the better too. Spitting or sucking the dome works pretty well... Awesome image! Tim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tdpriest 115 Posted January 30, 2009 (edited) I've got one word for you: Pledge! See above: I am sure that a hydrocarbon-containing mixture such as "Pledge" is toxic to wildlife and harmful to o-rings... ... an expensive option, in either case! Tim Edited January 30, 2009 by tdpriest Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ce4jesus 1 Posted January 30, 2009 I've posted this picture of my over/under dome before, but for those that missed it... Holy Moly that's a big dome. Looks like a port hole in a minisub. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jarhed 0 Posted January 31, 2009 (edited) I think that Backscatter was looking at making a split neutral grad that used a focus gear to adjust. I usually try to find something close underwater to light with a strobe, in this case, both above and below. Take care, John Edited January 31, 2009 by jarhed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tdpriest 115 Posted February 1, 2009 ... I usually try to find something close underwater to light with a strobe, in this case, both above and below... ?Palau? One that I missed (dome out of the water)! Tim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Octopus 0 Posted February 1, 2009 My first attempt at over under, no flash used.. 4-6 foot seas, clam waters would have been better Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
james 0 Posted February 1, 2009 Wow! OK - I see a sperm whale, and some other stuff??? What is that thing sticking out in the background?? Cool shot. James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marjo 8 Posted February 1, 2009 Yeah, is that a snorkel? Did you snorkel with a Sperm Whale? Being in the water with Moby Dick is pretty daring... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Octopus 0 Posted February 1, 2009 Thanks James. yes, swam with them. background is a snorkel and I believe tat you can make out some of Dominica or it may be somed of the waves. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Octopus 0 Posted February 1, 2009 And this is the companion shot, both with tokina 10-17 ( at 10mm), D300, Aquatica 9.25". f 6.6 @ 1/400th second iso 320. timing was a bit off, due to heavy seas. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AdamSkr 0 Posted February 2, 2009 (edited) All the posts above are definitely very helpful as I'm looking at trying some o/u shots during an upcoming trip (so far had very limited opportunity locally due to a red tide situation we have over the past 5-6 months). I have a some additional questions which could be of help though. Mainly, what is the best place for setting the focus point, over or under, or do you use multiple focus points? On the two occasions when I very unsuccessfully tried o/u I ended up with a lot of shots with the waterline and nothing else in focus so looking for all the advice I can get before I travel. Thanks, Adam. Edited February 3, 2009 by AdamSkr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Claudia 0 Posted February 3, 2009 Hello I dont do under water photography (but in serious danger of starting if I keep reading these posts !) But if you shoot in raw you can tweak the exposure to the above or below water section afterwards ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
divegypsy 22 Posted February 3, 2009 With respect to over/under shots here are a couple I shot back about 1995 at Bunaken Island in North Sulawesi, Indonesia. The camera in question was a Nikon F4 with a Sigma 14mm f3.5 lens. To get both the topside and underwater portions both sharp I had to use an aperture of about f14 or f16. The film was pushed to ISO 200 to allow this aperture. AND the underwater portion of both shots was filled with strobe light to roughly the same level as what the camera's meter told me would be the correct exposure for the topside portion. The underwater flash exposures were shot at various powers to give a good balance. I have always liked the 14mm focal length for over/unders as you can stop the lens down far enough to make both halves sharp without a split diopter and you can therefore divide the over and under portions of the picture in the proportions you want, not the 50/50 necessary with the split diopter I have made an attempt to attach two pictures but I'm not sure if it has worked. Needed technique seems very different than the last time I tried to do this and doesn't really seem to make sense any more. Fred Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vazuw 1 Posted February 3, 2009 With respect to over/under shots here are a couple I shot back about 1995 at Bunaken Island in North Sulawesi, Indonesia. The camera in question was a Nikon F4 with a Sigma 14mm f3.5 lens. To get both the topside and underwater portions both sharp I had to use an aperture of about f14 or f16. The film was pushed to ISO 200 to allow this aperture. AND the underwater portion of both shots was filled with strobe light to roughly the same level as what the camera's meter told me would be the correct exposure for the topside portion. The underwater flash exposures were shot at various powers to give a good balance. I have always liked the 14mm focal length for over/unders as you can stop the lens down far enough to make both halves sharp without a split diopter and you can therefore divide the over and under portions of the picture in the proportions you want, not the 50/50 necessary with the split diopter I have made an attempt to attach two pictures but I'm not sure if it has worked. Needed technique seems very different than the last time I tried to do this and doesn't really seem to make sense any more. Fred these are lovely Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Claudia 0 Posted February 3, 2009 Cant help you with film processing but the pictures are amazing from what I can see Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
