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Don Silcock

Wide-Angle Macro Lens

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... I also really like Nexus' FP-120, which is glass, and use it on Sea & Sea housings...

 

:rolleyes:

 

I have a problem with getting Nexus gear in the UK now that Steve Warren has given up on them. What housings can you adapt (as shown with the FP-120 dome) to take (my extensive) range of Nexus ports if I have to switch housings at my next upgrade?

 

Are the adapter rings available commercially (I've not seen anyone offering them in Britain)?

 

:B):

 

Tim

 

:B):

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Ryan,

The set-up I got from you, a while back, is causing some problems. The tokina 10-17 lens on my Canon Rebel and the 6" Ike dome is vignetting badly.

 

2634019030_54868675aa_o.jpg

 

I filled in the small gap in the vignette.

Do I have to remove the shade? If so, isn't the dome awful vulnerable? I recently got the 8" dome and it works well with the lens. However, it is a PITA to travel with.

 

Also, I am looking for a better set-up for pelagic shots. The 10-17 comes up short there. What lens/port do you recommend for pelagic schools?

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The set-up I got from you, a while back, is causing some problems. The tokina 10-17 lens on my Canon Rebel and the 6" Ike dome is vignetting badly.

 

I replied to a thread on digitaldiver.net where you were criticizing my recommendations a few weeks ago, but yes, the shade must be removed.

 

Vulnerable, yes, there are certainly compromises.

 

Also, I am looking for a better set-up for pelagic shots. The 10-17 comes up short there. What lens/port do you recommend for pelagic schools?

 

There are dozens of options, covered in several threads here. I don't shoot Canon cropped sensors very often, but I like Tokina's 11-16 (even though it has a limited range, the lens looks great). Sigma's 18-50 and 17-70 are very popular, but too long for me, and too fat for your housing.

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:rolleyes:

 

I have a problem with getting Nexus gear in the UK now that Steve Warren has given up on them. What housings can you adapt (as shown with the FP-120 dome) to take (my extensive) range of Nexus ports if I have to switch housings at my next upgrade?

 

Are the adapter rings available commercially (I've not seen anyone offering them in Britain)?

 

:B):

 

Tim

 

:B):

 

Hey Tim,

 

We have adapter rings to mount Nexus M5 ports on Seatool and Sea & Sea housings.

 

Nexus has not been a strong line for us since they removed focus lock and af-on access from the handle on D200 and D300. Fortunately there are other options, though.

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Nexus has not been a strong line for us since they removed focus lock and af-on access from the handle on D200 and D300.

 

Ta!

 

Tim

 

:rolleyes:

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I replied to a thread on digitaldiver.net where you were criticizing my recommendations a few weeks ago, but yes, the shade must be removed.

 

Vulnerable, yes, there are certainly compromises.

 

 

 

There are dozens of options, covered in several threads here. I don't shoot Canon cropped sensors very often, but I like Tokina's 11-16 (even though it has a limited range, the lens looks great). Sigma's 18-50 and 17-70 are very popular, but too long for me, and too fat for your housing.

 

 

I'm sorry to have upset you. I was never told to remove the shade. I will give that a try. Thank you for the warning about the thickness of the 17-70 as I was considering it. I have the 8"dome, 6" dome (with soon to be removed shade), and the 60 mm flat port. Is there a midrange W/A lens you would recommend that would fit one of these? The 11-16 would be too close to my 10-17 to be good for pelagics....right?

 

As I said, I'm sorry to have sounded disgruntled. I have nothing but compliments for your recommendations on the rig I purchased from you. It has been wonderful! I was surprised by that one glitch, that's all. Now I realize it was just information that was lacking.

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I was in Milne Bay just before Xmas and tried out the wide-angle macro technique Alex has written about. I was using the 10.5 Nikon with a 2x Kenko TC but struggled to light the subject because of the size of the Subal FE2 dome.

 

I eventually got the hang of it and like the effect - the best images with the technique are Tawali_06 and Tawali_18 on the following gallery at my website:

 

http://www.indopacificimages.com/pages/ima...lery/index.html

 

I am going back to PNG next month to spend three weeks at Tufi to work on a book project I am doing with the resort there and I want to do a lot more diving in the fiords than last time I was there. I think the WAM technique could produce some interesting results, but suspect the 10.5 may be too wide, so I will be taking my 15mm Sigma also.

 

I have also been looking at the Sigma 24mm & 28mm lenses as they have a close focus "macro" capability and then there is the 35mm Tokina.

 

Has anybody out there been using the Sigma 24/28 or the Tokina 35mm for this technique and if so what ports did you use and what were the results?

 

Don

 

I have looked all over the website, where can I find the article about wide angle macro technique?

Thanks

MB

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The 11-16 would be too close to my 10-17 to be good for pelagics....right?
Not really. The 10-17 is a fisheye lens and the 11-16 is a rectilinear lens. For the same focal length a fisheye lens has a much wider field of view than a rectilinear lens. Comparing the 10-17 and 11-16 the angle of view of the 10-17 at 17mm is very nearly the same as the 11-16 at 11mm (100° vs 104°). Therefore, angle of view wise they complement each other nicely with one starting off where the other one ends. Edited by Gudge

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Hi,

Do you think D300+10,5Dx is better than D 700+ 15FE sigma...for wide angle macro ??

 

Thanks

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You don't have to remove the shade to get a much better result than the one you posted. You just need to make sure that it is positioned correctly when you attach the port. The wide fins on the port need to be on the top and bottom, exactly vertical with the axis of the camera up and down. That will still give you some very slight vignetting, but only a tiny bit in the corners and it's very easy to crop without losing much of the image. A worse problem for me is reflections from the strobe. The gear wheel for the zoom reflects onto the dome and shows up in the image. That causes the need for a big crop. I find that with the 6" port, it is much better to stay from about 14mm to 17mm. It's still a fantastic lens even with that limitation. I'm looking to buy an 8" port too. I did not and will not remove the shade. Too much chance of damage and the reflection problem would likely still be there. Keep in mind I'm talking about underwater completely. With an over/under shot, it is probably different.

 

-- Martin

 

 

Ryan,

The set-up I got from you, a while back, is causing some problems. The tokina 10-17 lens on my Canon Rebel and the 6" Ike dome is vignetting badly.

 

2634019030_54868675aa_o.jpg

 

I filled in the small gap in the vignette.

Do I have to remove the shade? If so, isn't the dome awful vulnerable? I recently got the 8" dome and it works well with the lens. However, it is a PITA to travel with.

 

Also, I am looking for a better set-up for pelagic shots. The 10-17 comes up short there. What lens/port do you recommend for pelagic schools?

Edited by mschiff

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I've seen this mentioned on a couple of threads regarding the Sigma 17-70 HSM lens not fitting in Ikelite housings. The Ikelite port chart also states that this lens will not fit due to it's barrel width.

 

I happened to get this lens recently along with the proper extension for the 8" dome port. I thought that I was getting the older supported non-HSM lens, but due to an snafu with the order, I got the newer HSM version instead. I realized that it may not fit, but decided to look at it with my Ikelite D300 housing. It turns out that what does not fit is the standard zoom lens clamp that mates up with the geared sleeve. The sleeve itself will just fit over the lens without the clamp. The clamp would be too tight to fit in between without distorting or breaking the sleeve.

 

I scratched my head and considered this for a bit, and started thinking of various tweaks to modify the sleeve to mate directly with the lens. I started with the simplest possible solution and it worked perfectly! I wrapped a 1/4 inch wide velcro strap once around the lens zoom barrel, and then slid the sleeve over it. The velco makes the sleeve pretty snug and the overlap of the end of the strap catches on the keyed ridge on the sleeve when turned. This allows the sleeve to turn the zoom barrel and extend the lens to full length. Retracting the lens needs less force and simple friction between zelcro and sleeve is enough to do the job.

 

I tried the setup out in the swimming pool yesterday and it worked great! I'm looking forward to giving the new lens a propper workout in the next week or two. I'll post some pics once I do.

 

 

Sigma's 18-50 and 17-70 are very popular, but too long for me, and too fat for your housing.

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Does anyone have experience of taking the shade off a Subal DP-54B port? I am using a Nikon 8-15 mm fisheye lens with a 20mm extension, and the shade on the DP-54B appears in images, even at 15 mm. It looks like shade and mount were machined from a single piece (of delrin?)  I suppose a well-equipped machine shop could cut it off -- but that seems like the last resort. Many thanks in advance!

Carl

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