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Rob Esaw

Focus light for CP5000

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I've tried using my UK SL4 light (4 watts) for a modelling/focus light for my Aquatica 5000 housing, but find that it doesn't put out enough light.

 

I tried using my shockwave (20watts), and it definately helps, though is too bulky (the handle is not removeable).

 

I wonder what everyone else is using out there??

 

Also - I dive cold water in BC, but I will be doing some tropical in a week or so, and I also wonder if a focus light is necessary for warm water diving.

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I'm using 2 Q40s myself, but I cannot really recommend this setup. The Q40 is a really focused light and you can clearly see the bright spots in the pictures. I used tin foil to diffuse the beam and it helped as far as the spots are concerned, but the output of the light is not sufficient anymore.

 

I know several people who are really happy with the L&M Sunray Mod Light (http://www.uwimaging.com/products/video_lights/mod.htm), but it is fairly expensive.

 

I never felt the need for a focus light on warm water trips, since the usually better visibility allows for sufficient ambient light. Night dives are a different matter of course.

 

Michael

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Hi Rob,

Looks like we dive similar conditions in the NW. At the moment I'm using the Princton tec400. 5.2w I have a little gizmo from Nightsea that replaces one of the batteries. It cycles the light off about every 5 seconds. That way I can set focus and then shoot when it cycles off. It also works quite well on shutter speeds at/over 1/250 and doesn't leave a hot spot when I don't use the cycle feature. And it's bright enough to serve as a regular dive light too.

Rand

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Princeton 4 C cell light. Use the Ultralight light holder, and install the optional wide angle beam deflector.

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I've been using the Light & Motion Mod Light since Oct. and I love it with all the housings I've tried it with. Its so small and lightweight that I never dive without it and bright enough for all macro, fish portraits and close-focus wide angle. Tomorrow I'll be trying it out with the new L&M Titan housing for my D100 out at San Clemente Island. Yes, its pricey, but worth it for me so far.

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I use the modeling light on my DS-125's when I need extra focusing help. Don't need it much in daylight, but they're great on night dives.

 

Karl

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So Bonnie,

 

How about some photos of/with your Titan D100?

 

Cheers

James Wiseman

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Rob, down south I used the small UK light. Sorry I can't recall the model of the top of my head. It is the one you could put on your mask strap if you wanted.

 

For night dives I added the uk light one larger and seemed to have no focus problems. I foiled both light to dispurse the light intensity.

 

During the day for down south I found that unless the subject was hidden in the dark I really did not need a focus light. Even when the subject was recessed I still had positive results if it was not extreme macro.

 

I apologise that I don't have the actual light models with me. I will of course be trying some different cold water options in a month.

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With my A5000 setup I use the Ikelite PCa. Although this outputs a very narrow beam, I have never had any problems with a "hot spot" in the picture. I have tried the PCa on both the strobe and the camera, and so far I prefer using it on the strobe, but need to play around a bit more to be honest.

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Special prairie high tech tin-foil crumpled and inserted around the bulb. It may be imported out there in the west in your local grocery store.

 

LOL ;)

 

I believe I picked that little gem up on DD

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Underwatercolors, how did it go with the L&M Mod Light.

 

When you say "bright enough for all macro, fish portraits and close-focus wide angle" I guess you mean without a strobe?

 

Thanks for any tips.

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