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LERF

LX3 housing from UK-Germany

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Manufacturer: UK-GERMANY Unterwasserfototechnik

Housing Material: Aluminium CNC machine cut, hard anodized

Front port : Mineral glass

Max depth: 60 m

Changeable ports: y e s , UK-Thread

Monitor: Monitor back

Camera model: Panasonic DMC Lumix LX 3/Leica D-Lux 4

Functions: Shutter, Zoom, Program, Joystick, Menu,

Flash, +-, Fn, Self timer.

Picture format and AF mode must be pre-set.

Locking mechanism: 2 x self locking VA snap latches

Bulkhead : 1 x Nikonos V bulkhead

Halterung: M 8 thread on housing left side

¼ standard tripod mount

Measurment (LxWxH): 170x110x110 (incl. port)

Weight: ca. 950 gr. without camera

ca. 1.250 gr. with camera

 

Accessories under development:

 

Dome Port Adapter für DMW-LA4

DP128 Dome Port für DMW-LW46

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Note:

 

1. Camera AF mode and picture format must be pre-set before inserting the camera.

 

2. I don't have the physical housing here but I'm in direct contact with the manufacturer

 

3. Hence my replies may not be as prompt as in the 10bar LX3 housing thread

 

4. Photos of the housing posted are courtesy of UK-Germany Unterwasserfototechnik

Edited by LERF

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Note:

 

1. Camera AF mode and picture format must be pre-set before inserting the camera.

 

2. I don't have the physical housing here but I'm in direct contact with the manufacturer

 

3. Hence my replies may not be as prompt as in the 10bar LX3 housing thread

 

4. Photos of the housing posted are courtesy of UK-Germany Unterwasserfototechnik

 

I've seen it at BOOT2009. It seems hardy and well built, but is expensive and lacks in some controls that 10Bar have. i.e. there's no possibility for the internal flash, and there's no on/off button.. for someone can be unuseful.. but.. if you realize that it's shut off when you are at -30 and have the biggest manta you've never seen just in front of you?? :-))

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I've seen it at BOOT2009. It seems hardy and well built, but is expensive and lacks in some controls that 10Bar have. i.e. there's no possibility for the internal flash, and there's no on/off button.. for someone can be unuseful.. but.. if you realize that it's shut off when you are at -30 and have the biggest manta you've never seen just in front of you?? :-))

 

 

Many cameras do not switch off but go into sleep mode. To wake them up you press the shutter half way. As for internal flash, that might be limiting but there is a hot shoe and a sync cord. While the 10bar housing does allow the internal flash to be used it is only to trigger an external flash. So with both housings you are going to be using a external flash the only question is the sync method.

 

I personally like their minimalist approach but wish they would us a joystick control similar to that used by 10Bar.

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Many cameras do not switch off but go into sleep mode. To wake them up you press the shutter half way. As for internal flash, that might be limiting but there is a hot shoe and a sync cord. While the 10bar housing does allow the internal flash to be used it is only to trigger an external flash. So with both housings you are going to be using a external flash the only question is the sync method.

 

I personally like their minimalist approach but wish they would us a joystick control similar to that used by 10Bar.

 

There are recommended settings by UK-Germany and my comments:

 

1. Switch on camera before insert- Go to Settings/Economy and set Power Save to OFF. This way the camera won't go to sleep, do carry spare batteries and change it as necessary between dives!

 

2. Set format to 16:9- Crop in PP to get 3:2 for photos, record HD video only possible with 16:9 anyway

 

3. Set AF mode to AF/macro- Slow as it is but still works for most scenes. Think like DSLR users, pre- select normal AF for WA and video shots/ AF macro for general and macro and MF for super macro ( focus with joystick control)

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There are recommended settings by UK-Germany and my comments:

 

1. Switch on camera before insert- Go to Settings/Economy and set Power Save to OFF. This way the camera won't go to sleep, do carry spare batteries and change it as necessary between dives!

 

2. Set format to 16:9- Crop in PP to get 3:2 for photos, record HD video only possible with 16:9 anyway

 

3. Set AF mode to AF/macro- Slow as it is but still works for most scenes. Think like DSLR users, pre- select normal AF for WA and video shots/ AF macro for general and macro and MF for super macro ( focus with joystick control)

 

I don't agree with this philosophy.. ok that i can leave the camera ON, but the problem is if i don't push the ON button before diving!! :-)

In AF/macro the focus is really slow...

And then, why must I crop my images to get a 3/2 if I can have them by default???

For almost 1500$, i would like a housing with full controls..

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but the problem is if i don't push the ON button before diving!! :-)

 

This should not a problem as to me this is one of the predive checks - you check that the camera goes into the housing and functions properly. Kinda like turning your gas on and making sure your regs are providing it.

 

In AF/macro the focus is really slow...

 

I agree and think that perhaps this is one control that is missing as it would nice to switch between these modes.

 

And then, why must I crop my images to get a 3/2 if I can have them by default???

 

To me this is not an issue. You can get them 3/2 but then no movies.

 

For almost 1500$, i would like a housing with full controls..

 

I do not necessarily need control for everything (my wife would laugh hearing me say that as she says correctly that I am a control freak). But the price point is perhaps high compared to what 10bar offers.

Edited by allen

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I don't agree with this philosophy.. ok that i can leave the camera ON, but the problem is if i don't push the ON button before diving!! :-)

In AF/macro the focus is really slow...

And then, why must I crop my images to get a 3/2 if I can have them by default???

For almost 1500$, i would like a housing with full controls..

 

 

You can also program the LCD AUTO OFF after 15 sec or 30 sec, that saves the battery as well. Simply touch any button and the LCD will be ON again.

 

As mentioned, AF macro is slow but works for both WA and close ups

 

Shooting RAW is the way to go anyway, which requires PP , so cropping is just 2-3 mouse clicks away. I

 

For full control, go for the 10bar housing at a lower price.

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I found this picture of the housing with subtronic's new pro 160 strobe. I found the comment below to be very funny. I had read to twice before I got it.

 

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...DN%26start%3D40

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