Jump to content
DanInSoCal

Newbie questions with Ikelite 30D setup

Recommended Posts

Hello, all.

 

I have been shooting with a Canon A720IS in a Canon housing for a while, and have finally invested in an Ikelite housing for my 30D. I got the 30D housing plus the DS-160 strobe kit (with the ball joint system and TTL).

 

Everything arrived fine except for one port -- the Canon 17-85 port had a crack straight out of the box. Makes me think twice about Ikelite QC. It's also disappointing that Ikelite didn't cover the shipping on this exchange, but, oh, well.

 

In any case, I have a few questions after fooling around "above the water":

 

1) I don't seem to be able to tighten the ball joints sufficiently for the strobe not to move under its own weight (and I'm no weakling). Is this normal?

 

2) It is virtually impossible for me to "half-press" the shutter to lock focus. I either don't do anything or I snap a frame. I can't imagine trying to do this with cold water gloves on. What's the trick?

 

3) Some trial shots that I have taken seem to indicate that the TTL is a little off -- things are underexposed consistently by about 1/2 - 1 stop. FEC takes care of this. Is this normal?

 

Thanks,

Dan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
In any case, I have a few questions after fooling around "above the water":

 

1) I don't seem to be able to tighten the ball joints sufficiently for the strobe not to move under its own weight (and I'm no weakling). Is this normal?

 

2) It is virtually impossible for me to "half-press" the shutter to lock focus. I either don't do anything or I snap a frame. I can't imagine trying to do this with cold water gloves on. What's the trick?

 

3) Some trial shots that I have taken seem to indicate that the TTL is a little off -- things are underexposed consistently by about 1/2 - 1 stop. FEC takes care of this. Is this normal?

I'm still shooting my 30D in an Ike housing, so hopefully I can shed some light on some of your questions.

 

1) I have a DS-125 with ULCS arms and you have to tighten them "super tight" for them not to move. This shouldn't be a problem when you're in the water the strobes will be a lot closer to neutral than topside, so it's MUCH less of an issue. I always have to loosen my arms when I get in so that I can position them underwater.

 

2) This took me some getting used to as well - but considering that in the summer I'm diving with 7mm gloves and it hasn't been a big deal with a little bit of practice.

 

3) I haven't noticed any real TTL issues - but I tend to only use it when shooting macro, which offers a lot less guesswork for the cam.

 

Good luck & have fun!

 

PS - don't forget to put a +4 diopter on the 17-85. When I used to shoot with that lens in the dedicated housing, I forgot it once and basically threw every shot away from that dive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi

 

I have the same set-up except that I bought it second hand. I find the shutter release very tactile and can actually feel a clunk when in is half pressed. Maybe the spring needs to bed in a bit? You could try moving your finger further down the lever to make it less sensitive. (i am diving in warm water with no gloves). The other option is to go into custom functions on the camera and set it so that the * button controls focus(via thumb) and shutter just trips shutter...

 

Rgds

 

Duncan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have an Ikelite housing (but different camera). I have noticed that occasionally the shutter release lever can slip out of the spring in the housing. When it does this, it is very difficult to press the button half way. When the lever properly engaged with the spring however, I do not have difficulty with it at all !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Dan,

 

I shoot with a 30D in an Ikelite housing and have two warm-water dive trips under my belt, so I have somewhat limited experience, but here are my thoughts on your questions:

 

1) I don't worry about getting the arm completely tight prior to getting in the water. I quickly discovered that for all my might (and I'm relatively capable as well) I could not stop the DS-160 from moving the arm while topside. However, in the water, even with the arm joints only moderately snug, the strobe doesn't move. As long as the arm is tight enough to stop the strobe from flopping around topside, you'll be fine.

 

2) I also noticed the shutter was easily tripped while trying to depress the release halfway. However, after a little practice my brain and finger have the sensitivity worked out and now I have no problems with it. In a cold water glove, it may just take a bit longer to work it out. I guess the gun people refer to it as "trigger finger" - not to be confused with "itchy trigger finger"!

 

3) So far, I've mostly used TTL and have had no issues with exposure, generally. I have noticed, though, that when anything in the frame is disproportionally reflective, relative to everything else in the frame, it can fool the TTL into thinking the exposure requirements have ben met and shut down the strobe a bit early. Could it be that?

 

Hopefully, some of this helps. Best of luck with the new rig!

 

Lee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, all, for your help. Now I just have to take this baby for a test ride. First, the pool; then the great blue.

 

Regards,

Dan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sponsors

Advertisements



×
×
  • Create New...