Jump to content
Scubysnaps

G9 macro lens focus advice sought

Recommended Posts

Hi all you G9'ers!

I dived a couple of times last weekend to practise some macro photography.

I put the standard long port back on my ikelite housing with a 2X macro lens, and zoomed to nearly max, I had focus set to Flexizone small frame with AE point with AF mode continuous, I had the AF assist beam off. I tried a few ranges but favoured for about 3 inches from my subjects.

Where am I going wrong here, I couldnt hardly focus well at all. I shot with Av mode also, with macro setting off.

Any help to improve my macro skills would be greatly appreciated :good:

Cheers

Woody

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've found that the best way to get good macro pictures with the G9, particularly with the macro lens added, is to use manual focus. Anything else doesn't give me very reliable focus. I set the distance then move the camera in and out until the subject is in focus then shoot. There is very little lag in that situation. The camera also magnifies the focus point (which you can move) so you can get very accurate focus.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found that once I figured out and got comfortable with the range of working distances of my various macro setups on the G9 that I could use AF quite effectively ... that took some practice time booth in the pool and the ocean.

 

Which one is Flexizone? Is that the cluster of points? I didn't use that. I used the small, single point that you can move anywhere in the frame.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've found that the best way to get good macro pictures with the G9, particularly with the macro lens added, is to use manual focus. Anything else doesn't give me very reliable focus. I set the distance then move the camera in and out until the subject is in focus then shoot. There is very little lag in that situation. The camera also magnifies the focus point (which you can move) so you can get very accurate focus.

Thats a possible workaround thanks daw ;) would prefer to suss out the autofocus tho

 

I found that once I figured out and got comfortable with the range of working distances of my various macro setups on the G9 that I could use AF quite effectively ... that took some practice time booth in the pool and the ocean.

 

Which one is Flexizone? Is that the cluster of points? I didn't use that. I used the small, single point that you can move anywhere in the frame.

 

I agree more practise is required, will do when I get time!

Yes I think Flexizone was the cluster of points, when I re read the manual it seemed the most obvious to use at the time, cant reminder at the minute why tho, cheers :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yes I think Flexizone was the cluster of points, when I re read the manual it seemed the most obvious to use at the time, cant reminder at the minute why tho, cheers ;)

 

Use the single point and put it where you want it; as long as you are within the limits of the working distance of your setup, you should have no problem getting the auto-focus to work.

 

Also helps to have a focus light sometimes ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Use the single point and put it where you want it; as long as you are within the limits of the working distance of your setup, you should have no problem getting the auto-focus to work.

 

Also helps to have a focus light sometimes ...

Ok Jeremy cheers, the viz was pretty bad to be honest so it may have had a bad effect on the focussing ability so the focus light may have helped if I used it, does it work ok from within the housing?

Again, maybe more practise when time permits will tell

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
...so the focus light may have helped if I used it, does it work ok from within the housing?

 

I was referring to an externally mounted focus light. There are now a number of options starting at about $35 (and up from there) that do a pretty decent job for macro focus assistance and have "auto-shutoff" features which sense the strobes and dim during the shot, coming back on a second or two later.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I was referring to an externally mounted focus light. There are now a number of options starting at about $35 (and up from there) that do a pretty decent job for macro focus assistance and have "auto-shutoff" features which sense the strobes and dim during the shot, coming back on a second or two later.

 

Oh!? I never knew about tthese? I saw one on that G10 homemade project , that was about it. I notice you have one in your sig, could someone pass me a link to one that would suit my set up please? I'll have a google in the meantime see what I can find!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
could someone pass me a link to one that would suit my set up please?

 

http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=i...mp;cPath=135_14

 

 

Ooops, wrong Gosport. ;) The folks at Ocean Optics in London can fix you up.

 

http://www.oceanoptics.co.uk/underwaterfocusi.html

 

Have fun,

Steve

Edited by Steve Williams

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I havn't found a convenient way to diffuse dedicated focusing lamps. Whilst they may shut off momentarily to prevent any 'hot spot' in the photograph I find the real advantage of diffusing is to reduce the risk of scaring the subject! So I use a 1 watt Aquatec 'Aquastar' with an opaque 35mm film tub pushed over the lamp.

 

In turbid green water the Aquastar hasn't got quite enough oooph so there I use a Fisheye FIX LED 48DX

( http://www.camerasunderwater.co.uk/video/lights/fisheye.html ). Expensive but dimmable and diffusable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=i...mp;cPath=135_14

 

 

Ooops, wrong Gosport. :( The folks at Ocean Optics in London can fix you up.

 

http://www.oceanoptics.co.uk/underwaterfocusi.html

 

Have fun,

Steve

 

Thanks Steve :P Ocean optics got back to me and said to try cameras underwater, they said ikelite dont do a proper focus light like the fisheye torch, and to use a fish eye torch I would have to either glue a hot shoe onto my housing or get a double handle.

 

Would a focus light not be needed in good viz/daylight? Am I just getting this problem coz of 3m viz?

 

I havn't found a convenient way to diffuse dedicated focusing lamps. Whilst they may shut off momentarily to prevent any 'hot spot' in the photograph I find the real advantage of diffusing is to reduce the risk of scaring the subject! So I use a 1 watt Aquatec 'Aquastar' with an opaque 35mm film tub pushed over the lamp.

 

In turbid green water the Aquastar hasn't got quite enough oooph so there I use a Fisheye FIX LED 48DX

( http://www.camerasunderwater.co.uk/video/lights/fisheye.html ). Expensive but dimmable and diffusable.

 

How do you attach your fisheye torch Tim?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks Steve :( Ocean optics got back to me and said to try cameras underwater, they said ikelite dont do a proper focus light like the fisheye torch, and to use a fish eye torch I would have to either glue a hot shoe onto my housing or get a double handle.

 

Would a focus light not be needed in good viz/daylight? Am I just getting this problem coz of 3m viz?

 

 

 

How do you attach your fisheye torch Tim?

 

I use a 3 way ULCS clamp which I position on top of the handles for macro shooting and for w/a I use two 48DXs again on three way UCLS clamps but positioned on the mid joint of the arms, ie. between the 5" and 8" arms. The 48DX's attach using ULCS Sea and Sea / 1" ball arms.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also used a three-way clamp ... here's a pic ... I very happily used this exact setup all last year, except I ended up making my own, much longer fiber-optic cord.

 

2424612352_b59761e77a_b.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I'll persevere without the focus light and work with the other options above for now, see how I get on, will let you know, cheers guys :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've found that the best way to get good macro pictures with the G9, particularly with the macro lens added, is to use manual focus. Anything else doesn't give me very reliable focus. I set the distance then move the camera in and out until the subject is in focus then shoot. There is very little lag in that situation. The camera also magnifies the focus point (which you can move) so you can get very accurate focus.

 

I had a day off work and "life" today and managed to sit and play for a while with my kit all set up, it seems there is no real play in the focus distance with a macro lens on, so it seems this is the best possible way to do the job, cheers daw :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I also used a three-way clamp ... here's a pic ... I very happily used this exact setup all last year, except I ended up making my own, much longer fiber-optic cord.

 

2424612352_b59761e77a_b.jpg

I only have one strobe, but that's exactly the setup I use. Fisheye FIX mini LED focus light, triple clamp, and the little ball-to-YS connector. Another option if you need more reach/flexibility, is to use the new ULCS Neck Ball adapter (AC-NB) and a standard 2-ball clamp, then the ball-to-YS rod.

 

It would be great if someone would make a neck ball adapter to YS connector, but I suppose you lose the vertical tilt so perhaps not. It would be ideal if Ikelite would put a freaking hot shoe mount on top of their housings, though, to connect things there.

Edited by CompuDude

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sponsors

Advertisements



×
×
  • Create New...