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ckchong

Need Some Advice

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Hi i'm ck,

 

NEED SOME PRO TO ADVICE

 

I'm new in DSLR u/w photo shooting. i'm using Nikon D80 with ikelite housing and i getting to get a strobe soon.........but don't know what strobe is more suitable, i'm thinking off z240 but DS serial can provide TTL??? i'm not too sure what is that.....

 

anyone here using ikelite housing with TTL/i-TTL function before???????? is it really help????

 

Here with few question

 

-what is i-TTL/TTL?

-What so great about i-TTL/TTL?

-why i need it for u/w shooting?

-How i-TTL/TTL work with my ikelite d80 housing

-when we need to use it or what i-TTL/TTL provide?

 

why a lot of photographer like using manual setting...why?????

Edited by ckchong

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Hi i'm ck,

 

NEED SOME PRO TO ADVICE

 

I'm new in DSLR u/w photo shooting. i'm using Nikon D80 with ikelite housing and i getting to get a strobe soon.........but don't know what strobe is more suitable, i'm thinking off z240 but DS serial can provide TTL??? i'm not too sure what is that.....

 

anyone here using ikelite housing with TTL/i-TTL function before???????? is it really help????

 

Here with few question

 

-what is i-TTL/TTL?

-What so great about i-TTL/TTL?

-why i need it for u/w shooting?

-How i-TTL/TTL work with my ikelite d80 housing

-when we need to use it or what i-TTL/TTL provide?

 

why a lot of photographer like using manual setting...why?????

 

Hi ck. Welcome to Wetpixel.

I am no expert, but here are my thoughts.

 

 

TTL/iTTL stands for Through The Lens. It simply means that the camera uses a method of measuring the actual light coming through the lens and adjusts the exposure automatically to give the required exposure combination of shutter speed and aperture to give a correctly exposed picture. When using flash, the same thing happens, but the camera fires the flashes briefly for a "preflash", then measures the light reflected off the subject, and then fires the flash at the appropriate power to achieve a correct exposure.

 

What is so great? Well, it means that you dont have to do any calculations or alter settings, instead, the camera does all the working out for you. HOWEVER, it also takes away any input from you, the photographer, and gives you what IT thinks is the correct exposure. Whilst you can dial in some exposure compensation, it does the work. This is fine for a lot of situations, but can be fooled in others. For example, TTL flash is good for macro, but not so good for wide angle shots where there is a lot of blue water in the shot, and a coral fan close to the camera.

 

You can use Ikelite strobes with the Ikelite housing for fully auto TTL exposures. They work very well, bearing in mind the limitations already mentioned.There also TTL converters for use with other strobes. The Ikelite strobes are simply "plug and play".

 

As far as manual operation goes. People use this because it gives more control over your lighting, and it really isnt that hard. When I started , I borrwed a couple of Ikelite strobes (DS125's), and found TTL great for Macro, but not too clever for WA. I then bought a pair of old Nikonos SB-105 strobes (because they were cheap!) and had to go manual. I found it easier than I thought. I also find it gives me a lot more scope to be "adaptive". In other words, I get the exposures I want, rather than what the camera wants (not always the same thing)

 

If you do a search on here, there are hundreds of threads about TTL strobes.

 

Hope this helps. I am no expert, but there are plenty on here who might be able to answer in a more helpful way.

Its something to get you started anyway !

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Hi ck. Welcome to Wetpixel.

I am no expert, but here are my thoughts.

 

 

TTL/iTTL stands for Through The Lens. It simply means that the camera uses a method of measuring the actual light coming through the lens and adjusts the exposure automatically to give the required exposure combination of shutter speed and aperture to give a correctly exposed picture. When using flash, the same thing happens, but the camera fires the flashes briefly for a "preflash", then measures the light reflected off the subject, and then fires the flash at the appropriate power to achieve a correct exposure.

 

What is so great? Well, it means that you dont have to do any calculations or alter settings, instead, the camera does all the working out for you. HOWEVER, it also takes away any input from you, the photographer, and gives you what IT thinks is the correct exposure. Whilst you can dial in some exposure compensation, it does the work. This is fine for a lot of situations, but can be fooled in others. For example, TTL flash is good for macro, but not so good for wide angle shots where there is a lot of blue water in the shot, and a coral fan close to the camera.

 

You can use Ikelite strobes with the Ikelite housing for fully auto TTL exposures. They work very well, bearing in mind the limitations already mentioned.There also TTL converters for use with other strobes. The Ikelite strobes are simply "plug and play".

 

As far as manual operation goes. People use this because it gives more control over your lighting, and it really isnt that hard. When I started , I borrwed a couple of Ikelite strobes (DS125's), and found TTL great for Macro, but not too clever for WA. I then bought a pair of old Nikonos SB-105 strobes (because they were cheap!) and had to go manual. I found it easier than I thought. I also find it gives me a lot more scope to be "adaptive". In other words, I get the exposures I want, rather than what the camera wants (not always the same thing)

 

If you do a search on here, there are hundreds of threads about TTL strobes.

 

Hope this helps. I am no expert, but there are plenty on here who might be able to answer in a more helpful way.

Its something to get you started anyway !

 

 

Thanks GHP,

 

You are give a idea "what is going on here" hehehehe......

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