LyN 0 Posted July 7, 2009 Yes, I have managed to build an optical port for the Ikelite D70 housing (simple way, just a block of nylon worked out to fix two optic cables in front of the camera flash) and I have also manged to tweak the camera's strobe to ire when it is partially open (as the housing does not allow complete rise of the strobe). And now, the question is... how do I connect my two strobes (Z240 Type I and Z240 Type II) to have S-TTL for macro? Do I have to place the two optic cables in front of the camera's strobe, or do I have to use one as master strobe -connected to the camera- and one as secondary strobe -connected to the master strobe-? Does anyone have any experience on that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gudge 58 Posted July 7, 2009 (edited) I converted my Subal C40 housing for the 40D to fibre optics last year. Place the ends of the two optic cables so they are pointing at the camera's flash. Set both strobes to sTTL with right hand dial point at "B" to start and make sure the Advanced Cancel Circuit switch (lower right) is in the correct position (out for my 40D/50D but may be different depending on whether your camera's flash has a pre-flash or not). Edited July 7, 2009 by Gudge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
james 0 Posted July 7, 2009 Lyn, I could be wrong, but I think the pop-up flash on the D70 needs to be fully extended in order to fire (unlike Gudge's 40D). So you may be out of luck unless you can get the flash all the way extended. How did you tweak yours to get it to work - that is very interesting! Cheers James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deep6 7 Posted July 7, 2009 Lyn, I could be wrong, but I think the pop-up flash on the D70 needs to be fully extended in order to fire (unlike Gudge's 40D). So you may be out of luck unless you can get the flash all the way extended. How did you tweak yours to get it to work - that is very interesting! Cheers James First check that your pop-up flash is fully functional in the housing. For my D80, I set the flash to the comand mode and the Inons to sTTL. The camera flash is the master and the Inons are ther slaves. Nice work. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LyN 0 Posted July 7, 2009 Well, yes, normally the pop-up flash must be completely extended to work. But I searched the internet for information on that, and I found some people explaining the functioning of the strobe to solve the problem. I used the info for exactly the opposite: you just need the slightly modify the curve of the switch shown on the attached picture so it closes contact when the strobe is just opened. It has worked perfectly for me. Ok, so, it seems I should point both optic cables to the pop-up flash. Gudge, when you say B you mean twelve o'clock? Ok, I was pointing the power dial to Optical TTL (nine) so that may be the reason why I wasn't completely satisfied. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
james 0 Posted July 7, 2009 That is so cool! Thanks for posting that Lyn. That is going to make a lot of Nikon users here happy. Cheers James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gudge 58 Posted July 8, 2009 (edited) Gudge, when you say B you mean twelve o'clock?Yes, as shown in this picture: There's a handy guide to Inon strobe settings on the Reef Photo web site: http://reefphoto.com/tt/index.php?action=kb&article=7 There are some shots of the fibre optic conversion of my housing here: http://gudge.smugmug.com/gallery/5544090_z...339630336_3Vn2g That TTL indicator on the right hand dial at 9 o'clock is for when you are using the Z240 with a film camera using the original Nikon TTL specification for film cameras (eg Nikonos V). Edited July 8, 2009 by Gudge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LyN 0 Posted August 28, 2009 I've trying this for about 20 dives this summer, and it just works ok! No more need for electrical conection, very cheap and accurate TTL for macro, and easy change from TTL to manual during the dive. Great! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wizbowes 0 Posted August 28, 2009 I converted my Subal C40 housing for the 40D to fibre optics last year. I've just been looking at your pics for the conversion. Where did you get the fibre optic bulkheads - is this something you get from Reef etc? I've hada look at their website buut couldn't see anything (although to be honest I can never find anything on there - it's in drastic need to of an overhaul but I digress). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bvanant 189 Posted September 1, 2009 I've just been looking at your pics for the conversion. Where did you get the fibre optic bulkheads - is this something you get from Reef etc? I've hada look at their website buut couldn't see anything (although to be honest I can never find anything on there - it's in drastic need to of an overhaul but I digress). Ryan did the conversion for me. Works great (mostly). Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gudge 58 Posted October 22, 2009 I've just been looking at your pics for the conversion. Where did you get the fibre optic bulkheads - is this something you get from Reef etc? I've hada look at their website buut couldn't see anything (although to be honest I can never find anything on there - it's in drastic need to of an overhaul but I digress).Yes, I got it from Reef Photo & Video. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dhowie01 0 Posted November 7, 2009 Well, yes, normally the pop-up flash must be completely extended to work. But I searched the internet for information on that, and I found some people explaining the functioning of the strobe to solve the problem. I used the info for exactly the opposite: you just need the slightly modify the curve of the switch shown on the attached picture so it closes contact when the strobe is just opened. It has worked perfectly for me. Ok, so, it seems I should point both optic cables to the pop-up flash. Gudge, when you say B you mean twelve o'clock? Ok, I was pointing the power dial to Optical TTL (nine) so that may be the reason why I wasn't completely satisfied. Thanks! Dear LyN Can i do the same with a D200 and D300 to make them fire when only just up so i can fit them in my Subal housing and use d fibreoptic. . I cant understand the diagram. How does it relate to the pop up flash. What do you have to do to get to the switch to aler it. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Canuck 3 Posted November 7, 2009 I have the same conversion as Gudge. I have a series of photos posted that show the conversion in detail. It works awesome. I love it. So simple. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LyN 0 Posted December 31, 2009 I cant understand the diagram. How does it relate to the pop up flash. What do you have to do to get to the switch to aler it. The picture shows the inside mechanism of the pop-up flash. You can access it taking out the cover of the flash. This simple switch tells the camera if the pop-up flash is in or out. Normally the part called "operator" moves inside the "switch" and opens and closes it. What I did was, using small pliers, to modify the curve of the "switch" part so that the switch is operated at half extension of the pop-up flash instead of full extension. Got it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yasir 0 Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) Hi Lyn Can you please tell me how you were able to build an optical port for the Ikelite D70 housing? I understand how tweaking the popup flash. I want to know how you were able to connect the optical cables to the Ikelite and Inon Z240. Which connector did you use and did the ikelite flood? Thanks Edited September 2, 2014 by yasir Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
