(Free)diving w. 5D2. Hugy or Aquatica. Best choice...?

[dhphoto 0]

Hi all,

I am new here and looking for some help. The thing is that above water, I work as a photojournalist and pretty much only use my 5D2, but now I have taken up freediving and looking to house the 5D2.

I have been checking up on both Hugyfot's and Aquatica's housing, but I am in a limbo. I'll try to explain what I am after.

I saw A. Mustard somewhere using the words "uw photojournalism" or something of the kind and I think that best describes what I will be doing as well. So in terms of visuals, I will not do macro at all, but more the distance one would shoot one's buddy or reef scenes or a combo of the two.

So first point is that I'll definitely shoot wide angle or fisheye. But that of course poses another question - which of the two is it? I was pretty set on a fixed 20mm, but then I started reading about rect. lenses and lack of corner sharpness, so perhaps the Tokina 10-17 with the 1.4 extender? I guess at the longer end, it will not be too fishey. Any suggestions to help me choose between the two?

 

I should also mention that I will prolly not shoot flash and am also looking for the smallest possible housing for the 5D2 so I wont drag too much stuff through the water. Which means, I will also be looking at the smallest possible dome, which still yields good results. Is a small fisheye dome smaller than the smallest OK dome for a 20mm?

Finally, since I will also try to do video, I would like to hear from owners of the two housings aboutt the ease of using the video controls on the housing. It seems that Aquaticas are a little bit smarter laid out - but does this mean they are a hassle on the Hugy?

Ah, also if anyone have tried both, do they have any feelings about which viewfinder is best? (I will keep original viewfinder, but like to frame my shots as controlled as possible, so looking for one that easily shows 100% of the viewfinder. Perhaps it helps that I dive with a low volume mask that could get me perhaps 10mm closer to the finder...?)

 

I think that's it. To sum up, here it is:

 

Need 5D2 housing for freediving - Looking for "most streamlined", smallest possible package. Only available light/no strobes:

- Between Hugy and Aquatica, what would you recommend?

- Fisheye or fixed rectilinear 20mm for "UW photojournalism"? (Think buddy in reef scene kinda thing) and smallest dome to still yield OK results

- The buttons for video are seemingly more thought out on Aquatica - are they still OK on Hugy or would one have to move hand out of grip?

- What viewfinder of the two, do you prefer?

 

I think that's it, any help would be deeply appreciated, as stated I am kinda stuck right now...

 

Thanks a bunch,

David

Edited July 21, 2009 by dhphoto

[TheRealDrew 0]

Just to let you know, Sea & Sea has a pretty light and small housing for the 5D Mark II. If possible you should really try to get your hands on the housings somehow to see how they feel to you.

 

Aquatica makes a 6 inch dome that will work with the 5D Mark II and a couple of lenses do not need an extension. Take a look here for the port guide

 

http://aquatica.ca/subpages/catalog/housin...5d_mark_ii.html

 

Others also make 6 inch domes, but not sure of all the specs/recommendations for lens combinations. (I have a 8 inch dome for my Aquatica, and I am considering a 6 inch dome also at this point due to its size, and may go with that on some trips. Seeing them next to one another, the size did look like an easier packing job. Still thinking about it )

 

Not sure if you saw this thread, but Ferg42 was shooting some while freediving with an Ikelite

 

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=30740

 

None of the above quite answers the questions, sorry about that, but a couple of things more to look at

[dhphoto 0]

Oh yeah, Sea&Sea... Well, it is a fair bit more expensive than at least the Aquatica... It does seem a bit more compact, but I would have to check the measurements. I have a feeling it is the same as the others. The problem is that I am based in Shanghai and I don't think there are any housings here to lay my hands on, so trying to gather as much information as possible on WP...

[loftus 42]

If keeping the domeport small is important to you, then the fisheye option is probably a better choice, just because the wide rectilinears generally require larger domeports for optimum performance. If you do go this route with a TC, you may want to consider a fixed fisheye rather than the 10-17. One downside of the 10-17 is that it is an f3.5-4.5 max aperture, add one stop loss with the TC, and viewfinder brightness does suffer particularly in lower light situations.

[TheRealDrew 0]

Oh yeah, Sea&Sea... Well, it is a fair bit more expensive than at least the Aquatica... It does seem a bit more compact, but I would have to check the measurements. I have a feeling it is the same as the others. The problem is that I am based in Shanghai and I don't think there are any housings here to lay my hands on, so trying to gather as much information as possible on WP...

 

Right now I am going back and forth between the Aquatica and the Sea & Sea myself. The Sea and Sea is a bit smaller physically (L x W x H) and seems to be about a one and half pounds lighter [the 8 ounces Sea & Sea list on their site is probably UW or an out and out typo, someone was very kind to weigh it for me and it seems to clock in a pound and a half less.] I had handled the Sea & Sea and it did seem smaller, but at the time I did not have a 5D, so did not focus on it as much at the time. It is more pricey than the Aquatica.

 

The Aquatica Dimension: (with grip attached) W 35cm x H 19.5cm x D14.5cm / W 13.78” x H 7.65” x D 5.72”

 

Sea and Sea Dimensions (WxHxD): 336x170x139mm / 13.4x6.8x5.6inch (I am assuming with handles bases on what I have seen)

 

http://www.seaandsea.jp/press/1242956828.html

[mexwell 0]

Drew,

 

two really important issues when comparing housings for the 5D MKII IF you are going to film with it!

 

- How can you add a tripod? Macro at 100mm and I suppose 50mm is the same without a tripod is nearly impossible!

 

- How is the SET button triggered. I am not sure what S&S constructed but afaik Aquatica and Ikelite (V2) are the only manufactures who designed a "trigger" right at your thumb. I found it quite unpleasant to move my whole hand around the housing to trigger the SET button. Begin and End of all macro clips is shaky because of that.

Edited July 21, 2009 by mexwell

[dhphoto 0]

Hi Mexwell,

what housing are you using for the 5D2 since you have to move your hands around?

Also, you're right as far as I can tell, that Sea&Sea does not have the "set" button which starts stop movies in a trigger friendly place. But it has been moved out to the right it seems, but sits a bit low. Perhaps it is reachable by twisting one's thumb a bit down.

http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/tem...?img=ss-06149_3

It seems there are levers near the top, could be that the auto focus one is one of them, but there are only two levers so unless one of them has a dual purpose, there could be one function missing. I have not been able to find a S&S manual online.

 

One thought - does anyone know if it would be possible to customize the video start/stop button to be on the normal shutter? I don't really use the possibility to shoot in the middle of video photage - it is kinda of sitting down between two chairs. So, I wouldn't mind loosing that function and then be able to use normal shutter for video start/stop and that would mean "set" button placement is less important. My cam is at home, but will try to check custom functions tonight.

 

In terms of tripod socket, you have point, though I prolly wont use macro at all, so not for me;-)

 

D.

[mexwell 0]

Unfortunately the Movie Start/Stop function is only via SET button available and not reconfigurable.

 

I rented a Hugyfot housing for my last trip.

[dhphoto 0]

Not being able to reconfigure or rather "move" the "SET" button is very unfortunate, since that would have helped a whole lot - also it would be more intuitive. With luck it will come in next firmware update.

Could I please ask you your other impressions of the Hugy housing? I like the idea of the right hand strap and the nice, round shape of the housing itself. Did the hand strap (hand directly on housing) work well? Are the aperture and shutter speed dials easy to reach and turn? I guess ideally one should be able to turn the speed dial with the index finger and the other with the thumb? Or does one have to grab them firmer to turn them?

 

All the best, I really appreciate it,

David

[mexwell 0]

I used the housing in cold water conditions with three finger neoprene gloves.

 

I removed the handstrap and never tried it but added asecond handle to the housing.

Turning the dials was a pleasure as they are really senitive and accurate.

 

Housing ergonomics are perfect except the SET button for filmers.

 

The main feature why I still consider the hugy and try to deal with the the SET issue is

the Hugycheck system. After closing the housing you put a vacuum pump (no jokes, folks)

to an valve and suck air out of the housing. Inside are red/green LEDS which tell you the

status. The idea is to prepare the housing in advance (we did it the evening before) and leave

the housing alone. If the status is still the same on the next morning you can be 110% sure it

is tight. A REALLY GREAT FEATURE!!!

[dhphoto 0]

Good to hear about the ergonomics and dials.

I definitely trust your opinion on it, but it would still be good to hear from someone who kept the hand strap and only one handle (I know that it is easier to have a symmetric strobe set up if one opts for the second handle, but I wont be using strobes at all, I think)

I did read quite a bit about the Hugycheck and it seems like it is a very good idea. The thing is, that I will not do as much diving as a lot of you and hence will probably feel a bit like starting a bit over in terms of getting to know the housing each time I take it in the water. In that respect I could be a bit more prone to making mistakes and the Hugycheck could be a feature that could me relax more. It definitely is on the plus side in this big puzzle;-)

 

D.

[TheRealDrew 0]

I removed the handstrap and never tried it but added asecond handle to the housing.

Turning the dials was a pleasure as they are really senitive and accurate.

 

Housing ergonomics are perfect except the SET button for filmers.

 

The main feature why I still consider the hugy and try to deal with the the SET issue is

the Hugycheck system. After closing the housing you put a vacuum pump (no jokes, folks)

to an valve and suck air out of the housing. Inside are red/green LEDS which tell you the

status. The idea is to prepare the housing in advance (we did it the evening before) and leave

the housing alone. If the status is still the same on the next morning you can be 110% sure it

is tight. A REALLY GREAT FEATURE!!!

 

Christian

 

Good to hear, and it takes a tripod also(?) John mentioned you use a hex wrench to close the housing, but I am not too concerned with a couple of extra steps to get things right. Overall pretty easy set-up?

 

The size/weight/controls sound like they are winners across the board. As to the set button, though it would be nice to have it like you described, not sure I am overly concerned about it. On my Aquatica (30D and 40D which are about the size of the 5D housing you tried) I can reach the set button with my thumb while my index finger is still on the shutter release. Actually just grabbed my 40D housing again to check. Usually not diving with gloves and I usually start the camera early when doing video otherwise and don't mind a bit of pre and post actual shot to cut out later. (Or did you find the Set button issue causes shots to be missed?)

 

Size/weight wise how did the Hugy compare to the Aquatica? Since I am usually travelling (airport and that whole grind) size and weight are a concern, as it is for pretty much all of us.

 

Too many decisions, andd maybee I will just throw my G9 in a Canon housing

[Mike L 0]

Hi David,

 

I just spent some time freediving with the Hugy and the Sea & Sea units in Holbox. Having just returned last night, Ill work on a short write up/response in the details in the next day or so to help answer your question.

[dhphoto 0]

Hi Mike,

great to hear. I am torn between shelling out big bucks on these or going 2nd hand for 5D1, but if I do go overboard, then I would hav wanted to hear your findings. Looking forward to it,

 

D.

[mexwell 0]

Well, the Hugy I used had no tripod option... but I am beeing told that Hugy (at least in germany) is working on some kind

of tray/plate to use a tripod. I am still awaiting final information. This is a show stopper for ME.

 

Without gloves it might be better to press SET... I found it quite annoying during macro setups. For all wider stuff (17-40mm)

it was no problem at all.

 

Did I mentioned the great Hugycheck system? ;-)

 

Ahhh, Drew, definitely forget about the 5D and get your G9 wet.... [just kidding] :-)

[chrismar 0]

If you want some opinion on the Aquatica, talk to Fred Buyle about it. He used the 5DII in that housing for freediving photography using natural light. He's taken his down to ~60m and suggested to me that size is not actually a big concern. I personally went with a D90, Tokina 10-17 and a Sealux housing, but that's just me. I would suggest though that good high ISO performance is pretty key, especially if you're putting a TC in front of the already slowish 10-17. I'd see if you like what Fred does and if you do, ask him how he does it. He's a nice guy and quite helpful.

[dhphoto 0]

Hi Chrismar,

great advice on Fred. I did come across his name when googling "freediving, photographer", thought I couldn't really figure out whether he shot Hugy or Aqua - but great to hear that the size is less of an issue. Anyways, I have to admit that I couldn't scrape together the money needed to buy all new, so going with 2nd hand modified option. But that still leaves the whole question of the lenses. I shoot a lot of low light/high iso topside for my photojournalism work and I actually like it. But yes, the Tokina is a slooow lens and even slower with the converter (I wont be shooting strobes). I am thinking a lot about a fixed 20mm, but the not sure I can use a 6'' dome... I will look Fred up - thanks so much.

 

David

 

If you want some opinion on the Aquatica, talk to Fred Buyle about it. He used the 5DII in that housing for freediving photography using natural light. He's taken his down to ~60m and suggested to me that size is not actually a big concern. I personally went with a D90, Tokina 10-17 and a Sealux housing, but that's just me. I would suggest though that good high ISO performance is pretty key, especially if you're putting a TC in front of the already slowish 10-17. I'd see if you like what Fred does and if you do, ask him how he does it. He's a nice guy and quite helpful.

[dhphoto 0]

Ooops, forgot to say, that I like his work. Very much so! His pictures could very well be the best thing out there in this genre.

BTW, I have never had any luck with the nektos.net link, but this one should work: http://www.futurapnea.com/

 

Cheers,

D.

 

Hi Chrismar,

great advice on Fred. I did come across his name when googling "freediving, photographer", thought I couldn't really figure out whether he shot Hugy or Aqua - but great to hear that the size is less of an issue. Anyways, I have to admit that I couldn't scrape together the money needed to buy all new, so going with 2nd hand modified option. But that still leaves the whole question of the lenses. I shoot a lot of low light/high iso topside for my photojournalism work and I actually like it. But yes, the Tokina is a slooow lens and even slower with the converter (I wont be shooting strobes). I am thinking a lot about a fixed 20mm, but the not sure I can use a 6'' dome... I will look Fred up - thanks so much.

 

David

[Viz'art 24]

Fred acually used his Aquatica 5D for an altogether different purpose, he used it as a protective device and actually saved his live by protecting his head with it from the propeller of the boat that hit him, he still sustained some serious injuries to his arm (he his recuperating well I'm told) but the brunt of the impact was taken by the housing when he used it to protect his head, needless to say the housing has been destroyed in the process, I lost a friend in such a way when I was a kid and can testify to the horrible damage it can inflict. one can only think what it could have done to his head if it can destroy an aluminum housing.

 

Way to go Fred, now I will have to reclassify the housing as life preservers on the export document

 

If you get a chance, catch up with Fred, he is very knowledgeable on this type of photography.

Edited July 29, 2009 by Viz'art

[dhphoto 0]

Wow, that's a close call... And sad to hear about the story of your friend, even though it is a while back.

On a lighter note, I did drop Fred a line and he responded fast and was very helpful. I think he said he was on a boat, so I hope that means he is back in the water. At least he is close to it.

Jean, also thanks for the advice from you earlier - I couldn't find the money needed for neither your's nor Hugy's housing. But if I get bitten as hard by this as I fear, then I may just come back for more.

BTW, if people are wondering what Fred mostly shoots these days, it sounded like a 5D2 with either a Sig 15 or a Canon 16-35mkII. Of special interest was that he did feel the dome should be large - of course because of IQ, but he also said the increased drag was nothing to worry about. Now, that could have been 'cuz he is a world class freediver (literally);-)

 

Fred acually used his Aquatica 5D for an altogether different purpose, he used it as a protective device and actually saved his live by protecting his head with it from the propeller of the boat that hit him, he still sustained some serious injuries to his arm (he his recuperating well I'm told) but the brunt of the impact was taken by the housing when he used it to protect his head, needless to say the housing has been destroyed in the process, I lost a friend in such a way when I was a kid and can testify to the horrible damage it can inflict. one can only think what it could have done to his head if it can destroy an aluminum housing.

 

Way to go Fred, now I will have to reclassify the housing as life preservers on the export document

 

If you get a chance, catch up with Fred, he is very knowledgeable on this type of photography.

[danielandrewclem 3]

I was pretty set on a fixed 20mm, but then I started reading about rect. lenses and lack of corner sharpness, so perhaps the Tokina 10-17 w....

 

You can't use the Tokina 10-17 fisheye on the full frame cameras. It's for EF-S mounts, not EF.

[dhphoto 0]

Yup, you are basically right but I have seen here on WP that people have begun mounting them on 1.4 extenders and then one can shoot on a full frame body. Seems like 10mm could vignette, but everything else seems good from the samples I have seen here.

 

D.

 

You can't use the Tokina 10-17 fisheye on the full frame cameras. It's for EF-S mounts, not EF.