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DiverPam

Nikon D90 - seeking feedback on housing and lens setup

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I got this in less then a week, no wait on anything. Absolutely enjoy this Nexus housing so far ...

2 electronics bulkhead and 2 optical. Z240 Type 4 takes both. When in optical, it support ttl.

1 macro glass port with 2 different size (40mm & 20mm) extension ring to accomodate 60mm, 105mm, +1.4 or 2.0 TC

1 specifically design mini glass dome for the Tokina 10-17, adding the extension can also accomodate the +1.4TC & zoom-able.

Can open and close the D90 flash in water.

I have no more execuse on equipment now ... just have to figure out how to improve my skill ....

3857564057_9658c948c9.jpg

Edited by CADiver

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3857564057_9658c948c9.jpg

 

Whoa! With those floaty arms, do you think it will sink in salt water? :wacko:

Bob

Edited by Deep6

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CADiver,

have you tried out the 1.4TC with your 10-17? Any examples of results or things you can tell me about it? I have the same gear as you with different arms and no TC as yet. My first ocean trip is yet a few weeks away. Did you go with a Kenko TC or different? What extension are you using with the 1017 dome for the 10-17 plus 1.4TC, I presume its the 20mm.

Jeremyl, If you go with the Nexus, you can go with one type of strobe connectors and add the others later, if needed. Mine has the optical connections only but I can add others later if I ever switch from the Z-240...no plans to do so however. The option would allow faster delivery if something were in stock.

But using the G9 and OEM for now sounds like a good choice for you, as you mentioned.

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I was a little bit worry about the mega float at the begining ... It floats in the bath tub & I have to really press it down to sink it while I had a simple 60mm in it. Given sea water float even more, I was concern I have to add more lead. But my first dive w/ the rig prove otherwise. It almot felt Newton was wrong for the first time. The rig was neutral at 30ft, it did added a little bit drag when moving it to position. Later when I think about it, it's because I have attachment to my D-ring and that kept it from floating away. Next time I will try to let it go hand free and see what happen. Regardless, I am happy and going to keep and use them, having very light load in the water made big different compare to my previous Ikeite D80 DS-125. My wrist was not as streess after dive. Dry weight on land was also a tag lighter then the Ikelite combo.

 

Regarding the 1.4TC on 10-17. I havn't had a chance to dive that yet. Looking forward to on this Sunday. Yes, it's a Kenko 1.4. Yes, it's 20mm tube. You do need to have a different zoom gear in order to zoom w/ the 1.4. Use to love bigger is better 9" port. Now I am in love with this baby dome port, no bigger then the flat port and make travel a lot more friendly. Best of all only 2 ports, 1 flat 1 dome w/ 2 extension tubes, 20 & 40mm and I got all my lenses cover. Well I can't dive w/ my 12-24 any more but with 10-17 +1.4X, I think I am ok with that !

 

Have a great long weekend.

 

Cheers!

Dominic

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Reference Nexus D300, Tokina 10-17, FP170 dome, 40mm ext ring. Found a zoom gear that works with a Tamron 1.4x TC attached. Subal #5ZN007. Accurate placement on lens required - not much gear tooth engagement, but enough to work. It should work on your setup if the drive gear in the D90 housing is same diameter as gear in D300 housing. I prefer to have my system slightly negative so if I need to lay in on the bottom it will stay there. You might decide the buoyancy collars aren't really needed. It's whatever works for you.

Edited by jcclink

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Wow, where did you find a Nexus that fast. I do like the housing (visibility into the guts) but it does cost more. Not being able to see them in person I really would have a hard time to pick one so I go with the Aquatica since it is less money and seems more available.

 

I could get from B&H in stock with dual Nikonos bulkheads and then get Nikonos to Ike cables (or the spendy iTTL circuitry). Then pretty much everything is in stock and I could have it in a week.

 

So I am understanding... I guess the ability to open/close flash underwater is because you are triggering the optical via the camera flash. Is this true? I would have thought there would be a hotshoe to optical trigger circutiry inside. If you are launching the internal flash doesnt that give a heat issue. Or does it only do its preflash to trigger or something. Sorry - a little off my topic but I am curious.

 

So IF I did do this thing and wanted to get it in time I would get the Aquatica with Nikonos TTL bulkhead and for now get either a pair of Nikonos to Ike TTL cables (~$100) or a Nikons to Dual Ike TTL (~$150) and shoot manual with my DS125's. This works, right?

 

Also - I plan to start with just the 60mm (new) Nikon lens and just shoot AF but get the manual port. With this I can still shoot "wide" angle - as in normal 60mm (well 60x1.5=90mm) shots, right? I am not limited to just fishheads if I wanted ot take a pic of a coralhead would there be issues?

 

Thanks!

Jeremy

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I'm thinking a small coral head with the 60mm. Anything much bigger than a couple of feet requires a wider lens I believe. Underwater a 60mm thru a flat port is really a 120mm with cropped sensor. 60 x 1.5 x 4/3 (index of refraction) = 120. 60 x 1.5 = 90 with dome port.

Edited by jcclink

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I'm thinking a small coral head with the 60mm. Anything much bigger than a couple of feet requires a wider lens I believe. Underwater a 60mm thru a flat port is really a 120mm with cropped sensor. 60 x 1.5 x 4/3 (index of refraction) = 120. 60 x 1.5 = 90 with dome port.

 

 

So...what would happen if you used a 6" dome port with the 60mm lens? Does that make it a 90 with the D90 cropped sensor?

 

Curious - may try this in the water next week while diving.

 

DiverPam

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Yep :)

 

If you have an old 60mm lens check this table (from several years ago) for location of entrance pupil. I've found this information to be useful for a couple of other lenses I have regarding setup. The table shows that the pupil moves quite a bit depending on magnification factor with this lens compared to other focal length lenses. If this is the case with your lens it may be difficult to properly set up a dome port. The center of curvature of the dome should generally be located at the entrance pupil. A few measurements & calculations required here. If you have the new 60mm, I'm not sure how the entrance pupil is effected by magnification factor - it may or may not be an issue. I'd be very interested in how the 60mm with a dome port works out optically. Center of the frame will probably be ok, but edges & corners are the potential problem areas. Hope you can find the hot spot.

 

http://www.swissarmyfork.com/lens_table_1.htm

Edited by jcclink

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Happy holiday folks, if I missed any question, please let me know, I don't read Wetpixel as much as I want to ....

 

Both Nexus and SeaTool offers both electronic and optical trigger. Unfortunately SeaTool doesn't offer D90 but only D300.

I think the benefit of having muliple triggers are just having the ability to play. If you are expert in underwater photography, you will not need the optical tigger. The optical trigger offer sttl. I sort of like the optical method as you can still dial the EV down (on the Z240), it's sort of like having help on ttl. I don't know of any other housing offer this kind of sophistication. Iketlite perhaps, it has both manual and ttl. Ultimately, manual is the way to shoot.

 

Anyway, it was very murky day in Monterey but I remember I promise to show a picture of the 10-17 with 1.4TC in the Nexus baby dome. Here it is, not a good shot but give you an idea of the edge. It's at the 17mm end. No crop, no edit. Some days I will take better picture without backscatter ... :-)

 

3899820774_7c7e2b2db5.jpg

Edited by CADiver

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Thank you for the nice picture.

What zoom gear to you use for the 10-17 with the 1.4TC? is it a Kenko 1.4?

Do you also use a 20mm extension?

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Thank you for the nice picture.

What zoom gear to you use for the 10-17 with the 1.4TC? is it a Kenko 1.4?

Do you also use a 20mm extension?

 

Thank you ! It is a Kenko 1.4TC

(http://www.keaphoto.com/shop.html?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=152&category_id=25&keyword=kenko+1.4x&vmcchk=1)

 

Zoom gear was custom made out of a Sea & Sea, I am sure Reef Photo can figure out something for you too.

I really like the way the Nexus baby dome fit the Tokin 10-17. It has a sleeves fit between the lens and the inside of port, snug fit with only a small portion of the front of the lens showing. No flash from the camera bouncing off inside.

 

& Yes, use a 20mm extension ring.

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