dendronepthya 0 Posted January 18, 2010 @underexposed - Thanks so much for starting such a helpful thread. I received my 10Bar housing and am in the process of playing with it. While I purchased it to go diving and snorkeling with it, I don't get to go too often. I do however have about 4000 gallons of coral reef aquarium systems where I grow corals I can take pictures of in the mean time. Here are some test shots I got in those tanks of some fish and corals: I haven't received my strobes yet, so I haven't figured out exactly how I am going to hook those up, but so far I am really happy with the purchase. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
michaeltsantos 4 Posted January 18, 2010 Dear Mark, Thanks for the quick answers to all my questions. I guess you must be pretty happy with the set-up. Based on your review, it looks like I'll need to save up for this housing soon. Dive safe and happy shooting! Best fishes, Mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rtrski 20 Posted January 18, 2010 Here's another shot from the camera. I'm still figuring it out but liking it more each dive. The 45mm Macro fits in the dome port nicely so no need for anything else for macro shots. This was taken with the Leica DG MACRO-ELMARIT 45mm F2.8 ASPH MEGA O.I.S. lens. <snipped so as not to overload forum or your hosting site> Mark: That's an awesome shot. The texture and lighting are great. Congrats. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
underexposed 0 Posted January 18, 2010 Dear Mark, Thanks for the quick answers to all my questions. I guess you must be pretty happy with the set-up. Based on your review, it looks like I'll need to save up for this housing soon. Dive safe and happy shooting! Best fishes, Mike You're welcome. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
underexposed 0 Posted January 18, 2010 Mark: That's an awesome shot. The texture and lighting are great. Congrats. Thanks, I took about 20 and only a couple were in focus because everything was moving so fast. There are a couple more here Visit My Website dendronepthya, nice shots and cool looking setup. Lots of nice coral. It must keep you busy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dendronepthya 0 Posted January 30, 2010 (edited) I finally got a chance to play with the two inon s2000 strobes I purchased. Unfortunately, I am a little bit confused as to what flash setting to set the GF-1 to. Right now, I am using an optical connection to one and the other I am using wireless. The strobes fire correctly, but the images do not come out well. They look very underexposed which makes me think that the TTL is not TTL-ing. What do you have your GF-1 set to? Thanks in advance Edited January 30, 2010 by dendronepthya Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
underexposed 0 Posted January 31, 2010 I finally got a chance to play with the two inon s2000 strobes I purchased. Unfortunately, I am a little bit confused as to what flash setting to set the GF-1 to. Right now, I am using an optical connection to one and the other I am using wireless. The strobes fire correctly, but the images do not come out well. They look very underexposed which makes me think that the TTL is not TTL-ing. What do you have your GF-1 set to? Thanks in advance I'm using an Ikelite DS125 with a TTL slave sensor that is right up against the flash port. I've found it needs to be up very tight or it will not sense the flash properly and the shot will be underexposed. Even with that I still bump my flash adjust on the camera to +2 most of the time. On very tight macro's I will turn it sown to keep from over exposing the shot. I have my camera set to: Flash (Forced) Red eye (off) Synchro (1st) Flash adjust (+2) most of the time. The metering mode could affect it as well but I've not played with that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dendronepthya 0 Posted February 1, 2010 Thanks. That was very helpful. I've been playing around with it a bit more and for whatever reason, I get much better results using the manual controls on the strobes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dendronepthya 0 Posted February 18, 2010 I'm ordering a little bit of hardware and once I get it, I'll post some pictures of my GF-1 rig. I'm really looking forward to take it into the ocean! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kkfok 24 Posted February 19, 2010 Seatool finally released its housing for GF1. http://www.seatool.net/list/GF1.html Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deep6 7 Posted February 19, 2010 Seatool finally released its housing for GF1.http://www.seatool.net/list/GF1.html I have been watching that site for over a month. No telling when we will see deliveries to US dealers. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
echeng 0 Posted February 19, 2010 Seatool GF-1 looks beautiful! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeremypayne 0 Posted February 19, 2010 I think I'm starting to become VERY interested in m4/3. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CheungyDiver 53 Posted February 20, 2010 Seatool GF-1 looks beautiful! Here is another beauty from Inon .......4/3 system is getting very interesting indeed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dendronepthya 0 Posted February 27, 2010 (edited) Pics of my GF-1 setup with the arms and strobes. Ultralight Base Plate Ultralight Quick Disconnect Handles Ultralight 8" Buoyancy Arms (5 total) Ultralight Clamps Inon S2000 Strobes Edited February 27, 2010 by dendronepthya Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeremypayne 0 Posted February 28, 2010 Pics of my GF-1 setup with the arms and strobes. Ultralight Base Plate Ultralight Quick Disconnect Handles Ultralight 8" Buoyancy Arms (5 total) Ultralight Clamps Inon S2000 Strobes Very nice. I want. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackConnick 76 Posted February 28, 2010 Interesting idea that, putting a buoyancy arm between the handles. But is it really all that negative? You can pull the electrical bulkhead on these and use a plug on the opening. I think it simplifies loading if you're just using fiber optic sync anyway. Jack Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dendronepthya 0 Posted February 28, 2010 Interesting idea that, putting a buoyancy arm between the handles. But is it really all that negative? It's something I'm experimenting a little bit with. I have a set of regular (non-buoyancy) arms as well if the unit starts to float a little too much. I definitely like having that cross bar in the middle though. It makes the unit much more robust feeling and just so happens it makes a nice handle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeO 5 Posted February 28, 2010 It's something I'm experimenting a little bit with. I have a set of regular (non-buoyancy) arms as well if the unit starts to float a little too much. I definitely like having that cross bar in the middle though. It makes the unit much more robust feeling and just so happens it makes a nice handle. Not to put a damper on the adulation here, but I do have a question. It would seem that one of the draws of housing such a camera would be the reduction in size over a traditional DSLR rig. Your setup looks very cool, but I wonder how much one really saves in footprint over, say a Seatool xTi housing with a rig like this . . . Mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davephdv 0 Posted February 28, 2010 I was wondering if we could see one of these rigs with a hand next to it. Has anyone tried this camera free diving? I'm wondering if it could take the place of a Nikonos. Especially as regards to shutter lag and AF speed. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dendronepthya 0 Posted February 28, 2010 Not to put a damper on the adulation here, but I do have a question. It would seem that one of the draws of housing such a camera would be the reduction in size over a traditional DSLR rig. Your setup looks very cool, but I wonder how much one really saves in footprint over, say a Seatool xTi housing with a rig like this . . . Mike I don't think you would be saving much in terms of footprint. Once you drop the camera into a housing, it's going to be pretty chunky (especially is you plan to do macro). The reason I decided to put together an underwater setup around my GF-1 rather than my Canon 5D mk II is the GF-1 uses the LCD for composition, and it performs fabulously. I would think composition with the rear LCD would be easier than using a viewfinder. The Canon does have live view, but the AF speed between the two systems are not that comparable. The Panasonic is responsive and blazing fast (at least on par with lower-end DSLR's). The GF-1 shutter lag is significantly slower than the Canon though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Even Dykkeladd 0 Posted March 1, 2010 Hi! Great forum! How is the video capabilities of this camera in dark. low light conditions? Does the AF (which I hear is very good) catch up, or is it simply better to use manual AF, or shut the AF off? I am asking cause I realy consider to buy this system, but I must admit I am not sure wether Its better to just buy a dSLR for the same price (NIKON D500, Canon 550, Pentax K.X (lacking house though..)) My primary consern is shooting video with m43 in the dark, cold waters og Norway. Should I rather buy a dSLR?? I am new to UW-photo/video, so Id be very glad for any advice! All best. Even Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davelew 4 Posted March 2, 2010 Not to put a damper on the adulation here, but I do have a question. It would seem that one of the draws of housing such a camera would be the reduction in size over a traditional DSLR rig. Your setup looks very cool, but I wonder how much one really saves in footprint over, say a Seatool xTi housing with a rig like this . . . Mike For me, the draw of these cameras is not so much the size as the potential for low-cost, high quality wide-angle lenses. When designers can put lens elements right next to the focal plane, it's possible to use smaller pieces of glass, which either saves money or lets lens makers use higher quality glass. Think of the Nikonos 15mm lens, which had quite a following. There was no magic pixie dust in the 15mm, no special coating or exotic glass or new optical formula. It was just a simple retrofocus wide angle lens, but it was famous for the high quality of the images and the unbelievable sharpness of the corners. The performance of that lens was so good because it was for a mirrorless system, and took advantage of that to put lens elements right next to (OK, 10mm away from) the film plane. That optical trick can't be used on an SLR camera, and our best hope of a super high quality wideangle lens is the micro-four-thirds cameras today (the Tokina 10-17 is a convenient lens for composition, but I'm not in love with the optical performance and it would cost hundreds less if designed for a MFT camera). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
james 0 Posted March 2, 2010 Dave, Good point about the NV not using a mirror, BUT the other reasons the 15mm was so good were that it was DESIGNED to be a water contact lens. You couldn't use it in air. Also, because the light collecting medium was film, it was possible to put the lens elements close and it didn't matter if the light hit the film at an angle. Digital sensors need the light to hit at a right angle, so the rear element design of a lens is also sensitive to that. Cheers James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robzr 0 Posted March 4, 2010 I have been watching that site for over a month. No telling when we will see deliveries to US dealers.Bob Any idea on cost on the Seatool housing? That dome port looks sweet, looks like the H-F007014 7-14mm lens behind it with that hood. I just ordered a GF1, not sure what I should do about the housing. Pardon my amateur math here but the 10bar housing with the 14-45mm on wide would be (in 35mm terms) approx: 14 * 2 * .67 (dome port correction factor) = 18.8mm The 20mm w/ a UWL-100 would be approx: 20 * 2 * .56 (UWL-100 factor) = 22.4mm The 20mm w/ a UWL-100 + Inon Dome port would be approx: 20 * 2 * .56 * .67 = 15.0mm The 7-14mm w/ dome port would be: 7 * 2 * .67 = 9.4mm Does that math look right? If thats the case I might skip the dome port if I go with the 10 bar housing and keep my Inon 67mm wet lenses. I wonder how the quality would compare with the UWL-100 + 20mm vs the 14-45mm..... Rob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites