Panasonic GF1

[Huw Jenkins 0]

is the 10bar 14-45mm port acrylic or glass? i put a big scratch into mine and want to try to micro mesh it out.

[JackConnick 76]

It's acrylic, you should be able to polish it if it's not too deep.

 

Jack

[Huw Jenkins 0]

It's acrylic, you should be able to polish it if it's not too deep.

 

Jack

thanks jack

 

one thing to note for anyone purchasing the 10bar housing for the gf1 is the backplate. i have the first release. although i like the housing, i actually hate the back plate! and i am annoyed that the updated backplate cost so much as a replacement. i bought the housing recently, i think i shouldn't have to pay £250 or $250 in hong kong to have it "updated". it was updated for a reason, because it's terrible for non point and shooters, so give it to us at manufacturing and shipping price! ok rant over

[altsaint 0]

I picked up my new 10-Bar housing a couple of weeks ago, but it hasn't been in the water yet. Testing it out ( empty ) on Thursday. It's a 2nd generation model, and the backplate seems to fit ok. Two things I have found quite difficult.

 

First was fitting zoom gear to the 7-14mm lens. The zoom ring is pushed forward as far as it can go without slipping off , and it only just makes contact with the port sprocket. Also, the zoom sprocket makes contact at the same time with the focus ring, so both move simultaneously. I don't anticipate that being a major problem though.

 

The big issue I have had so far, was after taking all the 'o' rings off for cleaning and re-greasing. The wider / thicker outer 'O' ring for the dome port took forever to replace. It is a very tight fit in the groove. My Wife managed to do it in the end, pushing it with a flat piece of plastic. I don't know why that one in particular was so problematical, as all the others were fine ( including the 20mm port 'o' rings ). Anyone else had this problem?

 

Lastly, I have a Fix focus light that I want to mount on the housing. The housing has an M8 thread on top. would anyone know what arm I could use for this? My local underwater camera shop made up something with Inon BJ arms but it looked a bit overcooked for the job, and I declined the ( not inexpensive ) offer.

 

If Thursday's soak test goes well, then I'll take it out to the Red Sea the week after. I don't relish cleaning the dome port 'o' rings again though.

[Huw Jenkins 0]

If Thursday's soak test goes well, then I'll take it out to the Red Sea the week after. I don't relish cleaning the dome port 'o' rings again though.

 

i know different people have different views on cleaning o rings, so just a different view here, nothing more.

 

i haven't had any reason to remove any of the port orings after about 60 dives and 30 snorkles. i probably swap the ports every 3-5 dives. i just check if the oring looks clean, wipe it with a dedicated cleaning cloth, and sometimes add it tiny bit of grease. i keep everything in separate ziplock bags, so no dust / dirt can get on anything while it is being stored / not in use that day.

 

the back plate oring i remove and clean at the beginning and end of each day, so after 3 camera changes during the day. if one 'pops out' during a battery / card change, i clean it then.

 

this is my practice, i know people differ on this hugely.

 

was there a reason to clean everything before you took it into the water the first time? if it is straight from purchase, wasn't it pretty clean when you got it?

[Long John Silver 0]

Jayel;

No the 7-14 needs the second generation zoom port. You can buy it separately. You will also need gear sets, the 14-45 gears come with the port.

 

What is the fastest wide angle lens compatible with the latest 10Bar dome port?

 

Thank you in advance

[altsaint 0]

was there a reason to clean everything before you took it into the water the first time? if it is straight from purchase, wasn't it pretty clean when you got it?

 

All of the 'o' rings looked dry, and I wanted to make sure there was no hidden gunk underneath them. Also, the contact point for the port 'o' rings on the housing body looked a bit dirty. When I cleaned it, there was a fair bit of black deposit there with some other detritus that came away.

 

It's useful to know that you haven't had problems by leaving the port 'o' rings in place. There's probably another good reason for that, as the smaller of the pair needs a good stretch and then has to run over sharp threads to get it in-place. I'm sure that can't do it any good doing that on a regular basis.

[jaskak 0]

Hi.

Im finally looking to buy housing for my GF-1, where should i buy this 10bar housing? Im in NY now till end of next week, then going to Singapore before my trip to Indonesia.

 

Thanks

 

Jaska

[Long John Silver 0]

Hi,

Is there any wide angle lens that can be used with the 10bar housing except the panasonic 7-14 or fisheye 8 mm?

 

Thanks

[Long John Silver 0]

I was quite disappointed with using my kit lens 14-45mm. I though i was going to be able to use it stock but I could not focus on objects without having to move out to let the camera focus on the subject. No luck using auto nor manual focus. Would anyone know what causes this?

 

Does the 14-45 ports permit a full zoom?

[M4rauder 0]

Hi,

Is there any wide angle lens that can be used with the 10bar housing except the panasonic 7-14 or fisheye 8 mm?

 

Thanks

 

I was told that the Olympus 9-18mm also works with the 10bar dome port.

[Long John Silver 0]

I was told that the Olympus 9-18mm also works with the 10bar dome port.

 

I wrote to 10Bar asking info on lens and port compatibility but until now I got no reply

[Mamel 3]

I wrote to 10Bar asking info on lens and port compatibility but until now I got no reply

 

 

Wish you luck.

I bought flash housing from 10bar - all 3 control buttons do not work.

I e-mailed them 4 x and 1 message via Andy Mok website - but no reply.

[Long John Silver 0]

Wish you luck.

I bought flash housing from 10bar - all 3 control buttons do not work.

I e-mailed them 4 x and 1 message via Andy Mok website - but no reply.

 

Would be nice hearing Jack Connick who write here about 10Bar customer care...

[JackConnick 76]

Most of these answers are on their, or my websites.

 

I am only a dealer, I do NOT represent them in any other way.

 

10Bar is a small company. They get over-whelmed. Sometimes they will respond to questions, but a lot of the time they simply don't/can't take the time. Is that ideal, no. Your best bet is to do some research on the web and or check their catalog. A good reference are the user manuals. Or contact your local dealer, who is better able to support the end-user.

 

In response to the above the 10bar housings support most all Olympus & Panasonic micro-4/3rds lenses. The zoom port works without vignette for the Oly 14-42 & 9-18 as well as the Pany 14-45 & 7-14. Different gears must be purchased. They have a 20/17mm pancake port that can be used with a 50mm extension tube to support the 45mm Pany macro lens as well. There is a dome for the 8mm FE. Dual support is a nice feature.

 

Jack

Edited November 23, 2010 by JackConnick

[Long John Silver 0]

Hi Jack,

thank you for your explanations

 

Bye

[williamendean 0]

Can anyone help urgently - I'm travelling in 36 hours! I'm basically doomed to use the auto settings on my first outing as I have just received the 10bar housing and Panasonic GF1 and therefore havent got used to either of them yet. My problem is that the zoom 'dial' on the side doesnt seem to have any impact on the 14-45mm lens I have on the unit. I have the right port for the housing it just doesn't seem to make enough contact or grip properly when it turns. May just be being stupid but any help would be massively appreciated! Thanks

[JackConnick 76]

Can anyone help urgently - I'm travelling in 36 hours! I'm basically doomed to use the auto settings on my first outing as I have just received the 10bar housing and Panasonic GF1 and therefore havent got used to either of them yet. My problem is that the zoom 'dial' on the side doesnt seem to have any impact on the 14-45mm lens I have on the unit. I have the right port for the housing it just doesn't seem to make enough contact or grip properly when it turns. May just be being stupid but any help would be massively appreciated! Thanks

 

First off make sure the gear is on the right way, it can be turned two different ways. I wouldn't worry about the manual focus one much. As far as the zoom control, it takes some force to push and turn it...but water pressure will take care of most of the necessary force. Moat controls on nearly all housings won't work well above water, as the manufacturer allows for water pressue and doesn't want to put too much force on them and hurt the camera.

 

Auto won't work well uw. Choose aperture or shutter priority or even "P" modes. Practice above water with the camera, even on the plane it will help a lot.

 

Jack

[williamendean 0]

First off make sure the gear is on the right way, it can be turned two different ways. I wouldn't worry about the manual focus one much. As far as the zoom control, it takes some force to push and turn it...but water pressure will take care of most of the necessary force. Moat controls on nearly all housings won't work well above water, as the manufacturer allows for water pressue and doesn't want to put too much force on them and hurt the camera.

 

Auto won't work well uw. Choose aperture or shutter priority or even "P" modes. Practice above water with the camera, even on the plane it will help a lot.

 

Jack

 

 

Thanks Jack, bit more relieved about it now. I'll throw my 11 hour flight into learning a bit about the camera and practising like you suggest. Which mode do u think would be better underwater in terms of priority both for Macro stuff and big fish? Grateful for your help on this and apologies for being a complete noob!!!

[JackConnick 76]

Personally I shoot it in Manual mode. Fast shutter speed and small aperture for macro, sort of medium for w/a. But it

s a complex subject that takes more time and space than can be allotted here. I'd google around there are some forums/blogs that have articles.

 

Jack

[Davide DB 583]

Hi all,

I read all your comments on the 10Bar housing for this camera then I found this review:

 

http://www.deepshots.co.uk/2010/11/review-...-housing-mk-ii/

 

From this review:

 

The housing still has its problems. The main mode dial is still very hard to use. The same goes for the back wheel/button combo that is used for, among other thing, to control the aperture and shutter speed. Although it is very easy to slot the camera in to the housing, you'll be tearing your hair out with the "excess" sync cable inside that needs to be folded exactly as instructed or you will not be able to use some of the buttons.

 

Sync cable apart, is it really so difficult using these controls?

I would use this camera/housing mainly for uw videos.

 

Thank you in advance

[JackConnick 76]

Gees, how hard is it. The sync cord comes apart in two pieces, leaving a small end that can be taped out of the way. I used to include a plug for the bulkhead, but we had too many problems with leaking when users installed it without pressure testing.

 

Jack

[JackConnick 76]

A couple of other quick comments on the "review". The 7-14 works fine in the zoom port - I love his comment that by looking at the curve of the dome it can't be right. Also the new flash connector is an industry standard Inon screw-on connection; the same thread used by Nauticam and others. For an "industry insider" I find his lack of knowledge a bit puzzling.

 

I don't disagree that the 10Bar housings are a value housing, some controls can be fiddly. The GF-1 and LX-5 back door wheel is a PITA to design a control for. One tip is to adjust the small "stops" on the inside of the housing front (there are 4 of them). Try adding a bit of electrical tape shims to adjust the camera, sometimes that can improve things. The factory can adjust them if you want to send the housing in.

 

Jack

Edited November 30, 2010 by JackConnick

[Davide DB 583]

I don't disagree that the 10Bar housings are a value housing, some controls can be fiddly. The GF-1 and LX-5 back door wheel is a PITA to design a control for. One tip is to adjust the small "stops" on the inside of the housing front (there are 4 of them). Try adding a bit of electrical tape shims to adjust the camera, sometimes that can improve things. The factory can adjust them if you want to send the housing in.

 

Do you mean the factory in Japan?

 

I have an hacked GF1 aka GF13 so on land I shoot full manual. I'm afraid would be a PITA shooting full manual underwater if it's so difficult acting on the wheel...

 

Thanks Jack

[JackConnick 76]

10Bar is in Hong Kong.

 

I asked LC to check out the next batch of LX5 housings, and when I talk to him I'll ask about the GF-1s. I know he has been able to adjust the housings in the past. Yes, he needs to check them more carefully before they go out the door, but again China is having a hard time without enough skilled workers right now.

 

I'm going to see if there's some parts he can send me. But I think just adjusting these shims so that the camera has more contract with the back plate may work. But it's a very fine line, as if you have it too hard it will depress the wheel button. Silly control for a camera if you ask me.

 

Jack