How do you set your Inon Z-240 & Nikon ?

[CADiver 2]

I am sure this is probably not a new subject, so please feel free to redirect me to any old threads.

 

I am new to the Inon Z240 strobe (type 4). Started diving w/ it and looking for tips.

I set my Nikon to Flash TTL. On a few dives I connected it with optical (& pop up the Nikon flash) and on a few others I connected it with S&S electronic sync cord. Regardless what connection method, I found every switch on the Inon, I can fire. Sttl, stttl-low, Auto, Manual, Full, everyone, it fire. On every switch (may be not Full), I can dial the EV and get fine adjustment. So while that sounds good, it looks like I have no 'sure exposure' in ttl, isn't it ? If I am shooting TTL-low on macro and I can adjust the EV from max to lowest to get the right exposure, then to me it's not TTL anymore ?!

In the last trip, I was shooting 60mm w/ both Z240 situated to the left & right of the port about 6 inches away from the port, connected electornically, I set the Inon on ttl-low with the fine EV dial down to 11. That seems to generate the least amount of output if I set it at TTL, I got over expose result.

 

Am I mis-using the product ? How do you typically use yours ?

 

Thanks!

Dominic

Edited September 22, 2009 by CADiver

[TimG 62]

Hi Dominic

 

Which housing are you using? With many housings there is no TTL between Nikon and strobes without some form of TTL converter. Sea and Sea do one; Heinrich Weikamp (HW) is the other. I use a HW with my Nikon D300 and Subal housing and find it excellent with my Inon 240s. Prior to buying the HW I just dialed in the strobe setting using the Inon's EV dial. And you are right, this is not TTL metering.

[CADiver 2]

Hi Dominic

 

Which housing are you using? With many housings there is no TTL between Nikon and strobes without some form of TTL converter. Sea and Sea do one; Heinrich Weikamp (HW) is the other. I use a HW with my Nikon D300 and Subal housing and find it excellent with my Inon 240s. Prior to buying the HW I just dialed in the strobe setting using the Inon's EV dial. And you are right, this is not TTL metering.

 

I use the Nexus housing, in their description, it said if you fire w/ the Nikon flash and optical trigger/connection, you get sttl. That's fine but it seem I have to dial the EV to get it right, so that's strange ....

 

With HW ttl convertor, how/what do you set the D300 to ? & the Inon ?

 

Tx!

Edited September 23, 2009 by CADiver

[Nige Wade 0]

Hey Dominic

 

Try this link to Reef Photo it's the only info I could find online http://www.reefphoto.com/tt/index.php?acti...b&article=7

Hope it helps

 

Nige Wade

[Deep6 7]

Hey Dominic

 

Try this link to Reef Photo it's the only info I could find online http://www.reefphoto.com/tt/index.php?acti...b&article=7

Hope it helps

 

Nige Wade

 

Nigel has pointed you to the best online documentation. The dealer who sold you the Inons should help you. This is the best reason to deal with a first line u/w photo dealer. You don't say which Nikon you are using. You can get sTTL (slave TTL) only by using the optical connection. Put you Nikon flash in the command mode and follow the reef photo set up. Pay heed to the info about the little black ring that covers part of the sensor.

Bob

[CADiver 2]

The dealer who sold you the Inons should help you.

 

 

Discourage buying pre-own underwater photo equipments from private party ?

 

Anyway, this is not an issue of whether dealer helping or not, they help, I just want to learn more from other sources.

 

I am shooting D90. Thanks for all the tips.

[CADiver 2]

Discourage buying pre-own underwater photo equipments from private party ?

 

Anyway, this is not an issue of whether dealer helping or not, they help, I just want to learn more from other sources.

 

I am shooting D90. Thanks for all the tips.

 

I re-read the Reef Photo page, basically, it's extracting some part of the User Manual to the page. Didn't say much about how you may want to set the camera.

 

Over 10,000 members & No one wants to share your technique & how you set your Nikon / Z240 ?? Did Dr. Alex wrote anything about this. I bought his DVD but it's about the red filter ... Or is this a trade secret, not going to tell anybody ... Or I must try everything to figure it out, it will take hundereds of dives ....

 

Cheers !

:-)

[Christian K 0]

I am sure this is probably not a new subject, so please feel free to redirect me to any old threads.

 

I am new to the Inon Z240 strobe (type 4). Started diving w/ it and looking for tips.

I set my Nikon to Flash TTL. On a few dives I connected it with optical (& pop up the Nikon flash) and on a few others I connected it with S&S electronic sync cord. Regardless what connection method, I found every switch on the Inon, I can fire. Sttl, stttl-low, Auto, Manual, Full, everyone, it fire. On every switch (may be not Full), I can dial the EV and get fine adjustment. So while that sounds good, it looks like I have no 'sure exposure' in ttl, isn't it ? If I am shooting TTL-low on macro and I can adjust the EV from max to lowest to get the right exposure, then to me it's not TTL anymore ?!

In the last trip, I was shooting 60mm w/ both Z240 situated to the left & right of the port about 6 inches away from the port, connected electornically, I set the Inon on ttl-low with the fine EV dial down to 11. That seems to generate the least amount of output if I set it at TTL, I got over expose result.

 

Am I mis-using the product ? How do you typically use yours ?

 

Thanks!

Dominic

 

Can't help you with the optical solution (have never owned a housing that allows that).

When you connect with a sync cord, do you use a TTL-converter? Because you will need one if you want TTL (a fake one that is, but it works), otherwise you can only trigger the strobe and have to adjust its output manually, either via the cameras flash control or on the dial on the strobe. I use a Heinrich Weikamp unit to emulate TTL-flash and have the camera set on internal flash TTL. I set the strobe on either full or manual. Full will give me 'traditional' TTL and with manual I can adjust the output and underexpose the flash, but TTL kicks in if I should dial in a too high value on the strobe.

 

Good luck

[PIG004 0]

I gave up messing with the TTL converter after 3 or 4 dives and just started shooting manually.

[CADiver 2]

I gave up messing with the TTL converter after 3 or 4 dives and just started shooting manually.

 

Thanks you for the input, so do you simply set the Inon to M or Full and then use the EV dial and never set to sttl or sttl-low ?

What do you set your camera flash setting to ?

 

Thanks again !

[Deep6 7]

Thanks you for the input, so do you simply set the Inon to M or Full and then use the EV dial and never set to sttl or sttl-low ?

What do you set your camera flash setting to ?

 

Thanks again !

 

For sTTL on Inon strobes, I set my D80:

internal fash to the command mode

ISO 100 or 200

M for manual

shutter from 1/125 to 1/160

single Auto or manual focus

spot or center metering

 

That's all I recall for now and oh yes, brain to enjoy!

Bob

[Deep6 7]

For sTTL on Inon strobes, I set my D80:

internal fash to the command mode

ISO 100 or 200

M for manual

shutter from 1/125 to 1/160

single Auto or manual focus

spot or center metering

 

That's all I recall for now and oh yes, brain to enjoy!

Bob

 

!Mas!

 

contrast to miminum

expose histograms to right w/o clipping highlights

play back to blinkies and thumb down for histograms if needed

ev +/- rarely needed for macro to sl. wide angle

Bob

Edited September 25, 2009 by Deep6

[CADiver 2]

For sTTL on Inon strobes, I set my D80:

internal fash to the command mode

ISO 100 or 200

M for manual

shutter from 1/125 to 1/160

single Auto or manual focus

spot or center metering

 

That's all I recall for now and oh yes, brain to enjoy!

Bob

 

Thank you Bob.

[Christian K 0]

Thanks you for the input, so do you simply set the Inon to M or Full and then use the EV dial and never set to sttl or sttl-low ?

What do you set your camera flash setting to ?

 

Thanks again !

 

sTTL is for optical operation. The flash will still trigger, but you won't get TTL if it's connected with a regular sync cord.

 

/christian

Edited September 26, 2009 by Christian K

[tdpriest 115]

Nexus housings will allow Nikon cameras to control INON strobes in sTTL with fibre-optic connection; the other options are manual control with a fibre-optic connection, electrical connection with manual control (with, I seem to remember, the right-hand button on the strobe locked down) and strobe control using the built-in sensor. The INON manual is notoriously difficult to work through, but probably necessary.

 

It's funny how this comes up time and time again, when a little practice in a swimming pool, or even the bath, will confirm what works for you.

 

This link leads to some useful comments on this issue:

 

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29116

 

Tim

 

Edited September 27, 2009 by tdpriest

[bvanant 189]

I am sure this is probably not a new subject, so please feel free to redirect me to any old threads.

 

I am new to the Inon Z240 strobe (type 4). Started diving w/ it and looking for tips.

I set my Nikon to Flash TTL. On a few dives I connected it with optical (& pop up the Nikon flash) and on a few others I connected it with S&S electronic sync cord. Regardless what connection method, I found every switch on the Inon, I can fire. Sttl, stttl-low, Auto, Manual, Full, everyone, it fire. On every switch (may be not Full), I can dial the EV and get fine adjustment. So while that sounds good, it looks like I have no 'sure exposure' in ttl, isn't it ? If I am shooting TTL-low on macro and I can adjust the EV from max to lowest to get the right exposure, then to me it's not TTL anymore ?!

In the last trip, I was shooting 60mm w/ both Z240 situated to the left & right of the port about 6 inches away from the port, connected electornically, I set the Inon on ttl-low with the fine EV dial down to 11. That seems to generate the least amount of output if I set it at TTL, I got over expose result.

 

For optical triggering, set the camera to TTL (command mode).

Set the z240 to STTL

Set the SuperSTTL knob to B (straight up)

Set the lower right push button so the button is out

Camera to manual

Should give you good TTL control.

Check to make sure that when the strobe fires, the ready light should go from red to green and the green slowly goes away

BVA

[Christian K 0]

If you want TTL with a regular sync cord, you must haver some sort of TTL-emulator/converter.

It is only full and manual that will 'work' with a hard wired connection and a TTL-converter, like the HW-unit or S&S.

sTTL, and variations of it, will only work properly with optical connections. You might be able to fire the strobe with a electrical cable in sTTL-mode, but the results should be unpredictable.

I use the type II z240:s. Not sure if anything has changed for the type 4, but when using a converter and electric cables I need the advanced circuit-button (aka 'the magnet') pushed in and locked. Dialing in 'Manual' on the strobe will not be a true manual mode when the converter is on, it is 'Manual+TTL' as I described earlier. For a true manual mode, I release the Adv. circuit-button and dial in manual on the strobe, (also possible by changing the synch in camera to rear curtain).

 

cheers

[bvanant 189]

With the camera flash on and optical triggering, you should get TTL if the strobe is in STTL mode AFAIK

With the electrical connections, all bets are off unless you have a converter as everyone else has said.

Bill

[CADiver 2]

Thank you for those who response, it really helps.

 

the D90 Nexus that I bought has both electronic sync and optical sync. so I can play with both. It was because I was playing with both and every type of connection fires on every settings, that had be started this thread. When I was using optical connection with camera flash set to default TTL and strobe sttl or sttl-low, I can still adjust the dial on the right +/- to see exposure differences, that had me real confuse w/ what TTL that is. I am not sure my question was solve but I have good info from you all to play w/ optical some more. Eventually I will go back to manual and electronic sync but I want to enjoy some time with opticall ttl a bit for now.

 

Cheers !

Dominic

[bvanant 189]

Thank you for those who response, it really helps.

 

the D90 Nexus that I bought has both electronic sync and optical sync. so I can play with both. It was because I was playing with both and every type of connection fires on every settings, that had be started this thread. When I was using optical connection with camera flash set to default TTL and strobe sttl or sttl-low, I can still adjust the dial on the right +/- to see exposure differences, that had me real confuse w/ what TTL that is. I am not sure my question was solve but I have good info from you all to play w/ optical some more. Eventually I will go back to manual and electronic sync but I want to enjoy some time with opticall ttl a bit for now.

 

Cheers !

Dominic

The part that had me confused was why were you trying to change the exposures. A properly working TTL system with the optical sync should show pretty much the same exposure at all reasonable f stops.

Bill

[CADiver 2]

The part that had me confused was why were you trying to change the exposures. A properly working TTL system with the optical sync should show pretty much the same exposure at all reasonable f stops.

Bill

 

That part had me confused too :-) My memory recall . Optical connected.

I was photoing nudi branch about 18in away ( ~f11 to 14, 1/200sec, Nikon flash default TTL), 240 @ sttl and EV at B. Overly exposed result. Then I dial the EV to 6 oclock (f11), better. Then switch to sttl-low, EV still at 6 oclock, under expose, move it up to f4.5 (3 oclock), better. So I became confuse ...

 

This was in sttl-low and EV at 3 oclock (f4.5) - http://www.flickr.com/photos/cadiver/3872257784/

 

This was manual and EV at 5 oclock electronic sync - http://www.flickr.com/photos/cadiver/3936602620/

 

I need to try some more this coming Sat to sort out my confusion ...

Edited September 28, 2009 by CADiver

[Edward Lai 36]

When I used my D90 with 2 Inon Z240s connected by optical fiber, I set the pop-up flash to [TTL] mode (which is default of D90); and the Z240s to STTL. I first point the EV Controller to B position, and tried to verify whether the TTL was working.

 

I did find the pictures over-exposed consistantly in the beginning. Believing that the TTL should be working, I concluded that the Inon flashes had different output characteristic compared to the pop-up flash, which the camera TTL calculation based on. I then tried to set a negative exposure compensation in the camera, and the exposure became much better. I eventually settled with a -2.3 EV in the camera, and the TTL worked nicely for me over 30+ dives until now.

 

I always take pictures (on land) with different colors and at different distances to verify the accuracy of the TTL capability of the combo, and find them work well within a reasonable range of apertures and distances. Setting to STTL-Low sometimes help when shooting very close; and the EV Controller (A-B-C) also helps at times when I wanted to tune the exposure up or down a bit, without having to change the -2.3 EV I set in the camera.

 

Do remember to leave the ACC button (right lower with the 1>2 sign) at the 'up' position when using STTL.

 

Last thing I want to add is that the TTL does not work so good with wideangle shots. Full manual control can still be achieved by optical connection. Just turn the power dial to [M-0.5>-6] or [Full] to select your output options. When using the Z240 in manual, be sure: 1) set the D90 pop-up flash output to [Manual] and [1/128] output; and 2) set the ACC button to 'Down" position.

 

Edward

[Aqua_soul 1]

This has been a great thread for me and i think i am slowly learning how to properly use my strobes:)

 

A few questions:

 

Is TTL (command mode) also standard for the D300?

 

So if i shoot macro and want to use STTL, i must set my strobes to sTTL (top left dial), Set the top right dial to "B" position and leave the bottom right push button in the up position, right?

In this setting should i have my camera flash set to rear mirror or not?

Also with these setting, will changing the strength with which the camera's flash fires affect the strength by which the Strobes fire?

Same question as above, but play with different manual settings for the flash output of the camera....will it affect the strength of the strobe or just safe battery power for the camera?

 

For wide angle, its better to go manual, right?

Then i switch the top let dial to manual.

The top right dial to the f-stop matching the one on the camera.

Push the bottom right button in/down.

To which should the camera flash be set - rear curtain sync or not?

What effect will changes to the manual settings of the camera's flash have with the wide angle setup as well as changes to the camera's flash strength?

 

Thanks!

[CADiver 2]

When I used my D90 with 2 Inon Z240s connected by optical fiber, I set the pop-up flash to [TTL] mode (which is default of D90); and the Z240s to STTL. I first point the EV Controller to B position, and tried to verify whether the TTL was working.

 

I did find the pictures over-exposed consistantly in the beginning. Believing that the TTL should be working, I concluded that the Inon flashes had different output characteristic compared to the pop-up flash, which the camera TTL calculation based on. I then tried to set a negative exposure compensation in the camera, and the exposure became much better. I eventually settled with a -2.3 EV in the camera, and the TTL worked nicely for me over 30+ dives until now.

 

I always take pictures (on land) with different colors and at different distances to verify the accuracy of the TTL capability of the combo, and find them work well within a reasonable range of apertures and distances. Setting to STTL-Low sometimes help when shooting very close; and the EV Controller (A-B-C) also helps at times when I wanted to tune the exposure up or down a bit, without having to change the -2.3 EV I set in the camera.

 

Do remember to leave the ACC button (right lower with the 1>2 sign) at the 'up' position when using STTL.

 

Last thing I want to add is that the TTL does not work so good with wideangle shots. Full manual control can still be achieved by optical connection. Just turn the power dial to [M-0.5>-6] or [Full] to select your output options. When using the Z240 in manual, be sure: 1) set the D90 pop-up flash output to [Manual] and [1/128] output; and 2) set the ACC button to 'Down" position.

 

Edward

 

Thank you Ed. That's what I am looking for, real life usage & experience and share ...

[Edward Lai 36]

This has been a great thread for me and i think i am slowly learning how to properly use my strobes:)

 

A few questions:

 

Is TTL (command mode) also standard for the D300?

 

So if i shoot macro and want to use STTL, i must set my strobes to sTTL (top left dial), Set the top right dial to "B" position and leave the bottom right push button in the up position, right?

In this setting should i have my camera flash set to rear mirror or not?

Also with these setting, will changing the strength with which the camera's flash fires affect the strength by which the Strobes fire?

Same question as above, but play with different manual settings for the flash output of the camera....will it affect the strength of the strobe or just safe battery power for the camera?

 

For wide angle, its better to go manual, right?

Then i switch the top let dial to manual.

The top right dial to the f-stop matching the one on the camera.

Push the bottom right button in/down.

To which should the camera flash be set - rear curtain sync or not?

What effect will changes to the manual settings of the camera's flash have with the wide angle setup as well as changes to the camera's flash strength?

 

Thanks!

 

 

Hi,

 

Nikon cameras including D70, D80, D90, D200, D300/s, D700 all have commander mode for their pop-up flashes to use with iTTL compatible flashes such as SB-R200, SB-600, SB-800, SB-900. Under Custom Setting Menu-Bracketing/flash-Flash cntrl for built-in flash there are 4 options: TTL, Manual, Repeating flash and Commander mode.

 

However, when connected via optical fiber to Z240s, the Commander mode is NOT the correct choice. You should set the camera pop-up flash to [TTL]. The camera still thinks it is using its own flash for exposing the picture, while the Z240 reads the pre-flash and flash and mimics them (while inside a metal housing the camera flash can't go through except via the optical bulkheads). That's why we have to utilize the TTL function of the camera to control the exposure which indirectly controls the duration of the Z240 strobes.

 

Settings on Z240 for STTL is: Power Knob at STTL or STTL-low (output is slightly less); EV Controller at B for normal strength, A for more light and C for less light; ACC button (lower right one) at UP position.

 

Setting exposure compensation in the camera (either flash compensation or main compensation) does change the in-camera TTL level hence can indirectly change the Z240 output as well. (Do remember that for my D90 + 2X Z240s I have to set the exposure compensation to -2.3 EV to match the D90 and Z240s)

 

A very different setting for manual strobe control (e.g. shooting WA). Set the camera (anyone from D70....to...D700 with the pop-up flash) flash to [Manual] to eliminate the pre-flash of the camera. In this case the ACC button of the Z240 should be in the DOWN position. Now we only need a momentary flash signal from the camera to trigger the Z240, hence the output level of the camera can be set to 1/128 or 1/100 (using less energe from the battery).

 

There are two position in the Power Knob for manual operation of the Z240: M-0.5>-6 means controlling the output of the strobe light between -0.5 EV step to -6 EV steps (refer to the white letters in the EV Control dail, nothing to do with the f-numbers); or FULL meaning each time the strobe will be firing full power. In manual operation you have to judge the exposure by looking at the picture from the LCD, and more accurately from the histogram.

 

Above settings remain same with normal or rear curtain sync.

 

Hope everything is clear now.

 

Edward Lai

Edited October 8, 2009 by Edward Lai