kornse 0 Posted October 25, 2009 (edited) Do any of you know if you can by a HugyCheck(http://www.hugyfot.com/Products/HugyCheck.html) kit separate and install it in an ike housing and would it be worth the effort?? kind regards Mads Edited October 25, 2009 by kornse Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Bantin 101 Posted October 25, 2009 Do any of you know if you can by a HugyCheck(http://www.hugyfot.com/Products/HugyCheck.html) kit separate and install it in an ike housing and would it be worth the effort?? kind regards Mads I was talking to Tom Leys today and I think that since it is the unique selling proposition for Hugyfot they are unlikely to sell the system without the housing. Maybe someone else will come up with something similar. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nige Wade 0 Posted October 26, 2009 I was talking to Tom Leys today and I think that since it is the unique selling proposition for Hugyfot they are unlikely to sell the system without the housing. Maybe someone else will come up with something similar. That's a shame because the system is Awesome. Having tried to find a way to stop my domeport from rotating in the hands of the boat crew prior to passing it over the side, the pressure differential tightens all the O ring seals reducing the risk. My Subal ND30 has a third synch port opening (blanked off) so a retro fitted Hugycheck is a possibility. John can I have the one out of yours before you send it back? Nige Wade Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cpix 1 Posted October 26, 2009 (edited) You probably have seen this recent post, that there are other ways to stop it rotating : http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=24605 Edited October 26, 2009 by cpix Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nige Wade 0 Posted October 26, 2009 You probably have seen this recent post, that there are other ways to stop it rotating :http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=24605 Nice one Cpix, lots of info there, I must have missed this thread. Thanks for posting the link. But I'm still going to try and "blag" the one out of the Ageing Scribe's Hugyfot !!!! John, it'll take months before they realise and you'll be thousands of miles away sipping gin and tonic with Stuart Cove when they do. Go on, I'd do it for you Nige Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Balrog 5 Posted October 26, 2009 ... Having tried to find a way to stop my domeport from rotating in the hands of the boat crew prior to passing it over the side, the pressure differential tightens all the O ring seals reducing the risk..... Probably not a problem but be aware that introducing a partial vacuum into the housing will effectively reduce its rated depth. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kornse 0 Posted October 26, 2009 (edited) Thanks for the replies. I got in touch with a danish dealer and apparently theres some electronics incorporated in the housing(although it should be pretty easy to make one that fits all) . That was his explanation for why we cant buy it... Think i might make something similar to the acrylic anti-port-rotating-divice. Edited October 26, 2009 by kornse Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blibecap 29 Posted October 26, 2009 Thanks for the replies. I got in touch with a danish dealer and apparently theres some electronics incorporated in the housing(although it should be pretty easy to make one that fits all) . That was his explanation for why we cant buy it... Think i might make something similar to the acrylic anti-port-rotating-divice. Hey Mads I also have thought about the vacuum in the ikelite housing and want to do that. Can we work together and come up with something? Any chance you can borrow one? I am working on something better than the rev4 acrylic anti-port-rotating-device made out of stainless but if you want one acrylic anti-port-rotating-device and would do a nice write up on it I could ship you one. Take a look at the new updated website and also look at the Ikelite site (http://ikelite.com/faq/faq_4portlock.html) as They are also doing something with this situation although I like my solution better (http://uwcamerastuff.com/port_lock_4.htm). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bvanant 195 Posted October 27, 2009 I believe that you can buy the Gates Seal Check as a separate set of components that could be easily adapted to almost any housing. It works great for their video housings. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kornse 0 Posted October 27, 2009 It´s a great idea if it wasn't for the price... I think that 1250$ is a bit much... Would be nice to have a cheaper version... http://www.marinevisions.com/Gates-Seal-Check.html Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Bantin 101 Posted October 28, 2009 But I'm still going to try and "blag" the one out of the Ageing Scribe's Hugyfot !!!! John, it'll take months before they realise and you'll be thousands of miles away sipping gin and tonic with Stuart Cove when they do. Go on, I'd do it for you Nige Not wishing to burst your bubble (as mine was bursted) a helpful friend in Denmark got involved and organised a 'terrific price' for the Hugyfot. Terrific it might be but it was a lot more than nothing - but as I'd bought the camera and 16mm lens it seemed that I had to buy a housing so the Hugyfot with the security of the Hugycheck was the obvious choice. Alas, I had to pay something for it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Balrog 5 Posted October 28, 2009 (edited) :eek: $1250. Would have thought something like this might have the makings, added to a bit of silicone tube and a bulkhead fitting. You're only looking for a pressure drop over time. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MINIVAC-MINI-VAC-VAC...=item3ef8edfed1 Edited October 28, 2009 by Balrog Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blibecap 29 Posted October 29, 2009 The problem with the manual vac is that it takes 50 to 75 squeezes to pull 15-20" of vacume on a ikelite housing. Takes some time and energy. I would like to find a low cost small size, light weight battery operated vacuum. Does anyone know how many inches of water a breast pump will draw? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Balrog 5 Posted October 29, 2009 The problem with the manual vac is that it takes 50 to 75 squeezes to pull 15-20" of vacume on a ikelite housing. Takes some time and energy. I would like to find a low cost small size, light weight battery operated vacuum. Does anyone know how many inches of water a breast pump will draw? Ah, didn't look the manual vac capacity. Never seen a battery vacuum pump. Would doubt if a breast pump would be designed to pull 15"Hg, I can't suck much more than 5". How about those manual pumps that are used to evacuate half empty wine bottles, they might have a larger capacity per stroke. Then again there's venturi ejectors but in my experience use a lot of air. Be OK for the 2nd dive using the old tank and a modified first stage but that's not really when you need it http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VacuVin-Vacuum-Wine-...=item562d693a2f http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SEMIGAS-VENT-VAC-VAC...=item5ad1b81e4d http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Venturi-Vacuum-Pump-...=item45ed9e25b0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blibecap 29 Posted October 30, 2009 Ah, didn't look the manual vac capacity. Never seen a battery vacuum pump.Would doubt if a breast pump would be designed to pull 15"Hg, I can't suck much more than 5". How about those manual pumps that are used to evacuate half empty wine bottles, they might have a larger capacity per stroke. Then again there's venturi ejectors but in my experience use a lot of air. Be OK for the 2nd dive using the old tank and a modified first stage but that's not really when you need it http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VacuVin-Vacuum-Wine-...=item562d693a2f http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SEMIGAS-VENT-VAC-VAC...=item5ad1b81e4d http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Venturi-Vacuum-Pump-...=item45ed9e25b0 Hi all Well here is a update. It takes 160 squeezes of the manual pump to pull 15" of vacuum on my ikelite test housing. It takes 50 pumps of the wine pump to get the same results. Still trying to figure out how to keep the vacuum in the housing and still remove the pump remembering that you have to be able to release the vacuum from the same fitting. Any Suggestions? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Balrog 5 Posted October 30, 2009 What's the objective, a leak test, then releasing before venturing under or trying to hold the vacuum to keep the dome seated. A leak test probably doesn't need as much as 15" Hg. Less vacuum might be a sterner test for piston sealing O rings subject to an accurate enough manometer. I would be concerned at exposing a body and lens to 1/2 Atm vacuum without manufacturer's confirmation. Are you sure all components and any sealed lens elements can take this. What pressure does Huggy use? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blibecap 29 Posted October 31, 2009 (edited) Thanks for your questions. My goal is to keep the vacuum in the housing throught the dive. This would help keep the dome in place, all o-rings sealed and re the dangerous area of breaking the surface in or out or the rinse tank, jumping in with the rig and having it handed to you from the boat. I dont think there is a concern with the camera or lens although thats something to think about. Huggy well Hugyfot wouldn't tell me anything except that they only sell the device to people who have there housings. We don't really have any information from them. Gates on the other hand uses 6 in Hg with there stuff. Can anyone supply information from hugyfot? Regardless of what the ending vacuum is the test of the two vacuum creating devices is for comparison and reference only. Edited October 31, 2009 by blibecap Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cpix 1 Posted October 31, 2009 Gates on the other hand uses 6 in Hg with there stuff. Can anyone supply information from hugyfot? Interesting HugyCheck info to be found here : http://www.uvfoto.com/hugyfot/PDF/D700HOUSE.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blibecap 29 Posted October 31, 2009 (edited) Thanks for the link, very informative. Would someone please check my conversions and math, all calculations are using air, I have made mistakes before and will do so in the future. It looks like they have a slight typo, as there manual states Calibrating at sea level (1.015 hPa). The period should be a comma. From what I can find this is a little off even with the typo. 1 atmosphere = 29.921 in Hg = 760 mm Hg = 1.01325 bar = 1013.25 mb = 101.325 kPa = 1013.25 hPa = 14.696 psi 1.002 atmosphere = 29.973 in Hg = 761.313 mm Hg = 1.015 bar = 1015 mb = 101.528 kPa = 1015 hPa = 14.721 psi I don't know why there using about -50' as a sea level reference point but really doesn't make a lot of difference. Hugyfot set points are < 950 hg = a solid red light 950 hg = 14.721 psi = 712.559 mmHg = 29.973 inHg Hugyfot set points are 950 hg to 850 hg = a fast flashing red light 950 hg = 14.721 psi = 712.559 mmHg = 29.973 inHg 850 hg = 12.328 psi = 637.552 mmHg = 25.100 inHg Hugyfot set points are 850 hg to 750 hg = a slow flashing red light 850 hg = 12.328 psi = 637.552 mmHg = 25.100 inHg 750 hg = 10.878 psi = 562.546 mmHg = 22.147 inHg Hugyfot set points are < 750 hg = a solid green light 750 hg = 10.878 psi = 562.546 mmHg = 22.147 inHg The problem is they don't say where there set point for the pump cut off is exactly. My calculations are hugyfot 1015 hg - 950 hg = 65 hg or real 1013 hg - 950 hg = 63 hg difference hugyfot 1015 hg - 850 hg = 165 hg or real 1013 hg - 850 hg = 163 hg difference hugyfot 1015 hg - 750 hg = 265 hg or real 1013 hg - 750 hg = 263 hg difference 63 hg = 0.914 psi = 47.254 mmHg = 1.86 inHg 163 hg = 2.364 psi = 122.260 mmHg = 4.813 inHg 263 hg = 3.814 psi = 197.266 mmHg = 7.766 inHg 265 hg = 3.844 psi = 198.766 mmHg = 7.825 inHg Not much difference between 1015hg and 1013hg So the logical conclusion I could draw from this is that there most likely pulling about 8" of vacuum on the housing as compared to 6" in the Gates. I like the idea of the different set points and the indicators in the Hugyfot. 6" of vacuum = (14.696 psi + 2.947 psi = 17.643 psi ) converts to the same pressure as being about 6.6 feet deep in sea water. 7" of vacuum = (14.696 psi + 3.438 psi = 18.134 psi ) converts to the same pressure as being about 7.7 feet deep in sea water. 8" of vacuum = (14.696 psi + 3.929 psi = 18.625 psi ) converts to the same pressure as being about 8.8 feet deep in sea water. In regards to how much vacuum can a camera and lens handle, can someone shed some light on this? Of course the chips are sealed, but the lens although somewhat air tight is not really sealed as dust and fungus can infiltrate. Using a camera at 15,000 feet altitude subjects the camera to a pressure 16.886 inHg verse sea level of 29.921 inHg or 13.035 inHg of vacuum as compared to sea level. 20,000 feet would be about 3 more inches or 16.213 inHg. So 15" of vacuum would be the same at taking the camera to a altitude of 18,026.4 or 16.5 feet deep in sea water. Regardless somewhere between 6" and 10" of vacuum should be enough to keep the housing well sealed, keep the camera and lens safe and not remove too much depth from the housing rating. Well I hope all of these calculations are correct or close as I really did not enjoy all the calculation and conversions. Anyone found a nice small battery operated vacuum pump yet? Still trying to figure out how to keep the vacuum in the housing and still remove the pump remembering that you have to be able to release the vacuum from the same fitting. Any Suggestions? Edited October 31, 2009 by blibecap Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
owfotograaf 14 Posted November 1, 2009 http://users.telenet.be/owfotograaf/beelde...20HugyCheck.pdf May by this can help if you translate my article. I was involved by designing the Hugycheck. It is not so easy to built the measuring electronics inside by yourself. A little vacuum meter is also no solution, bout sides are one the same pressure You need also a check valve, and a vacuum pump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blibecap 29 Posted November 1, 2009 Thanks I have done some work on the electronics and the check valve. Can you share any information as to the battery operated vacuum? Like where to get it, what it was used for or model number etc. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blibecap 29 Posted November 9, 2009 Well this thread has been quite for a while. I have found the connector to be used and have a few on order as well as some of the electronic parts. Anyone have any ideas on a battery operated vacuum? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fotoscubo714 0 Posted December 30, 2009 (edited) Well this thread has been quite for a while. I have found the connector to be used and have a few on order as well as some of the electronic parts. Anyone have any ideas on a battery operated vacuum? Discontinued Reynolds "Handi Vac". Runs on 6 replaceable AA alkaline batteries and pulls 19 inch Hg vacuum. Ebay listings start as low as $3.00. [http://www.reynoldspkg.com/reynoldskitchens/handi_vac/en/home.asp] - Bo Edited December 30, 2009 by fotoscubo714 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blibecap 29 Posted March 8, 2010 Hi Everyone Well it's been a while since I have posted a update. I have been busy skiing and shoveling snow but I did find some time to work on the project. I have assembled the prototype and needed to make some changes to the original schematic. After the modifications it works great. I now have to run those modifications past the EE who is working with me on the project and then we will go on to the next step of making it small and using surface mount chips. This section is a area inviting comments and feedback. Without getting too much into the details of how things work I will attempt to describe the circuit as well as it's functions. One of the concerns when designing the project was power consumption as well as space required as we already have the connection to the housing solved. We have a power saving feature installed that will really extend the length of the battery life. My minimum requirements were to be able to run on one battery for 12 hours a day for at least 7 days on a single coin cell. After all coin cells are not that expensive. The circuit also contains a moisture sensor. With a good battery, anytime there is water in the housing you will get a red flashing alarm regardless if you are in power-saving mode or not. The unit will automatically come out of power-saver mode as we didn't want any manual switches etc. If you have less than 2" of vacuum in the housing then you will be in power saving mode. If you have from 2" to 8" of vacuum in the housing then you will see a rapid flashing red alarm. If you have from 8" to 10" of vacuum in the housing then you will see a slow flashing red alarm. If you have from 10" to 12" of vacuum in the housing then you will see a solid green safe light. The way I figure it if you have a lose of vacuum you have a problem !!!!! I am open to ideas and suggestions in this area. More updates to follow. Bill Libecap Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DuikKees 1 Posted March 9, 2010 I think this is what you are looking for: http://www.scubasupport.nl/webshop/PRODUCT...elite-huis.html Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
