Ikelite installation question

[Kublah 0]

This is my first housing (Ikelite 40D) and I got the superwide port and 8" dome. Everything is the newer 4 lock design with the low profile locks. I am just wondering if I installed everything correctly, because when I connect the dome/port to the body, you just press it and it snaps into the low profile locks on the body. However, when I put the locking L bracket on that keeps it from popping off on accident, I still have about 3" of rotation play. In other words, I can rotate the dome/port about 3" clockwise/counter clockwise. Granted the lock is doing it's job and will not let me rotate it to the point where you can take it off, but is this normal or did I mess something up with the installation? It just seems like if you can rotate the thing, then water can get into it? The o-ring is there and provides some friction when rotating, but I just want to make sure I am not going to have a leak when I get it underwater. Thanks for any info other Ikelite users can provide.

[DuncanS 0]

This is my first housing (Ikelite 40D) and I got the superwide port and 8" dome. Everything is the newer 4 lock design with the low profile locks. I am just wondering if I installed everything correctly, because when I connect the dome/port to the body, you just press it and it snaps into the low profile locks on the body. However, when I put the locking L bracket on that keeps it from popping off on accident, I still have about 3" of rotation play. In other words, I can rotate the dome/port about 3" clockwise/counter clockwise. Granted the lock is doing it's job and will not let me rotate it to the point where you can take it off, but is this normal or did I mess something up with the installation? It just seems like if you can rotate the thing, then water can get into it? The o-ring is there and provides some friction when rotating, but I just want to make sure I am not going to have a leak when I get it underwater. Thanks for any info other Ikelite users can provide.

 

I have the old 2 port clip housing so cannot comment on the new design, however,

 

On mine once the ports are secure you can still rotate them. When you enter the water have the port facing down and the water pressure completes the seal.

 

Rgds

[londonsean69 1]

I have the old 2 port clip housing so cannot comment on the new design, however,

 

On mine once the ports are secure you can still rotate them. When you enter the water have the port facing down and the water pressure completes the seal.

 

Rgds

 

Do you find that your ports are a little 'wobbly'??

I too have a brand new housing, with the 4 port locks (D90), and when I assemble one of the port extensions into the body, there is a bit of play, I can rock it back and forth and feel it move. Is this normal? Will a bit of water pressure tighten everything up?

 

Obviously, I plan to pool test it without a camera, but just want to make sure.

 

I have tried a couple of different extensions, and they are all the same

 

Thanks in advance

 

Sean

[Balrog 5]

Again no experience of the new 4 clip arrangement.

 

The O ring works as a radial seal like a piston which can move, rather than the compressed gasket type seal of the rear door. It will feel loose until the water pressure pushes the port/extension flange onto the housing face.

 

Yes, a most excellent idea to dive it without camera first time to check that all manufacturing tolerances are as they should be. A block of lead about the same weight as your camera & lens and wrapped in a couple of socks inside the housing will make it more handleable when testing. If it does show any signs of a leak try and keep the TTL electronics uppermost.

[londonsean69 1]

Again no experience of the new 4 clip arrangement.

 

The O ring works as a radial seal like a piston which can move, rather than the compressed gasket type seal of the rear door. It will feel loose until the water pressure pushes the port/extension flange onto the housing face.

 

Yes, a most excellent idea to dive it without camera first time to check that all manufacturing tolerances are as they should be. A block of lead about the same weight as your camera & lens and wrapped in a couple of socks inside the housing will make it more handleable when testing. If it does show any signs of a leak try and keep the TTL electronics uppermost.

 

Balrog, thanks. I just wanted to make sure. I have had a good look at it and feel happy enough. It's still getting a proper dunk test first!

[Beyondthesurface 0]

I just got my new Ikelite housing for the same system last week- 40D and new Port and Dome. The dome will rotate a little way back to align the dome shade, but the locking device stops it from rotating further and coming off. Had it in the water yesterday for the first time for two dives on the HMAS Perth and all is good! Just give it a test without the camera to make sure it's all good and keep your mind at ease.

[scuba-s 0]

i also have the 40d ike housing and have had it for over a year now ,i recently got the 4 port clip upgrade,which is much more reassuring then the old 2 port clip with the old port extension, if your dome rotated more then a third of the circumference at the surface it could pope off the housing i found this a quiet disturbing especially when someone hands you the housing you don"t know if they have accidental rotated the dome when handling it , the extra clips and locking system takes a load off my mind, depth and pressure keeps the port sealed ,a friend of mine took his brand new 8 inch dome on a dive and he was taking a shot and some surge pushed him into some rocks and he thought he would have got a cracked dome or leak for sure the knock was so hard, but it was dry as a bone (huge scratch on the dome thru) and that was with the old 2 port system the ike housings are not prefect but then they are not 3 times the price like the metal housings either.

[Kublah 0]

Thanks for the great info all. I will be taking mine to the pool this week...first without camera, and then I will try it with. This definitely puts my mind at ease!

[Kublah 0]

UPDATE: Pool test confirmed that my worries are not valid. I wrapped the inside of the housing with tissue paper and a small towel, then headed to the local pool. Everything is working as it should, even at low pressure situation just below the surface. I even wiggled the dome back and forth with the body facing different directions and not a single drop leaked in, so everything seems to be great. Next test will be with camera and lens (soon as I get the lens)