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john426

10-22 canon- edge sharpness

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Some advice would be appreciated- I currently have a Canon Rebel digital camera and a

10-22 wide angle. I am thinking of purchasing the Ikelite housing and large dome port- however, I am concerned that even with the big dome, the edges of images will be blurred- could any user of this set up please give me advice? How wide can you zoom without blurred edges? Do you have any example images with this combo? Much appreciated!

John in Boston

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Some advice would be appreciated- I currently have a Canon Rebel digital camera and a

10-22 wide angle. I am thinking of purchasing the Ikelite housing and large dome port- however, I am concerned that even with the big dome, the edges of images will be blurred- could any user of this set up please give me advice? How wide can you zoom without blurred edges? Do you have any example images with this combo? Much appreciated!

John in Boston

 

I've used the 10-22 behind the Ike dome and you'll get some corner softness shooting wide open or near wide open. It's not noticeable if the edges of the frame are of open water. You can use a diopter and stop down to help sharpen the corners.

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I've used the 10-22 behind the Ike dome and you'll get some corner softness shooting wide open or near wide open. It's not noticeable if the edges of the frame are of open water. You can use a diopter and stop down to help sharpen the corners.

 

 

HI- do you use the big dome? What kind/strength of diopter? Thanks!! JOHN W.

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I used it with the 8 inch dome and I believe a +2 diopter but will have to check. I stopped using it when I got my Tokina 10-17.

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I used it with the 8 inch dome and I believe a +2 diopter but will have to check. I stopped using it when I got my Tokina 10-17.

 

 

Is the tokina a better choice?

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Is the tokina a better choice?

 

Yes. It's an amazing lens underwater. I have a 10-22 that's never been wet. Like Andy, I just love the 10-17mm

 

Steve

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The 10-17 is awesome but hard to find. B&H just got some in and may still have them. I shot wrecks and was worried about distortion but it's easy to control. It's a great lens.

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The 10-17 is awesome but hard to find. B&H just got some in and may still have them. I shot wrecks and was worried about distortion but it's easy to control. It's a great lens.

 

 

Not to beat a dead horse- but when you "distortion is easy to control" what do you mean by that? With a diopter, or with stopping down? Are you using Ikelite housing? thanks so much- I already have the 10-22, so I would prob need to sell it to buy the Tokina, so I want to be sure this is the right move.

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Not to beat a dead horse- but when you "distortion is easy to control" what do you mean by that? With a diopter, or with stopping down? Are you using Ikelite housing? thanks so much- I already have the 10-22, so I would prob need to sell it to buy the Tokina, so I want to be sure this is the right move.

 

also, if you can recall what diopter is right for the 10-22, that would be great!

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i've had both the Tokina 11-16 and 10-22 and don't think there's much between them stopped down - both need proper location in the dome (i did the math and the Aquatica recommendation for the 10-22 seems to be correct for the 11-16 as well) and a +2. i kept the 11-16 as the 2.8 is useful and it is a bit sharper than the 10-22 which is noticeable on land

 

although i haven't used the 10-17 i wouldn't disagree that it's the better UW choice

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I'm using Subal now. I did use a + 2 with the 10-22. By distortion I mean straight lines that become curved when using a fisheye. You can minimize that by how you frame the image and orient the camera.

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I'm using Subal now. I did use a + 2 with the 10-22. By distortion I mean straight lines that become curved when using a fisheye. You can minimize that by how you frame the image and orient the camera.

 

 

I see that the 10-17 is actually a fisheye- I suppose that does not matter underwater....but perhaps the design also yields better corner sharpness than the canon 10-22? Do you need a diopter with the 10-17? I appreciate both of all your comments- thank you-JW

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I see that the 10-17 is actually a fisheye- I suppose that does not matter underwater....but perhaps the design also yields better corner sharpness than the canon 10-22? Do you need a diopter with the 10-17? I appreciate both of all your comments- thank you-JW

 

No, you don't need a diopter with the 10-17. In fact you can't use one. There are no threads on the front of the lens.

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i used the 10-22mm for a year or so and then purchased the 10-17mm. needless to say the 10-22mm never got used again and it found its way onto Ebay.

 

Stew

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Just to make sure... the Canon 10-22 is not a fish eye, its a wide angle lens, the Tokina is a Fisheye... and being as this is, there is no reason to get rid of the 10-22mm, it works fine for both underwater use and topside use...

the Tokina is better suited for underwater use as the topside curved line distortion can overtake your desired effects... its a fun lens to use topside but its usefulness is limited...

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It seems that people seem to prefer the Tokina, although as of yet nobody has really explained why! -JW

Edited by john426

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Could anyone here quantify how much of an improvement you can get from a +2 diopter on the 10-22mm? I'm shooting behind the ikelite 8-inch dome with the prescribed extension.

 

While I understand the urge to shoot the 10-17mm (I use one at work every day), it's a $700 investment, as opposed to a $50 one. Just wondering how much it could help me out. 10-17 is on the list for my personal kit, but I'm months away from having the $$, and in the meantime I'm not liking the corners on my 10-22mm that much. (Using the 10-17 at work isn't helping matters...)

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Try a +4 diopter. That's what I use on my Nikon 12-24 & a 6.7" dia dome with good results.

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