Advice on upgrade from Canon Rebel/Ikelite

[bubbless 0]

I've been shooting photos underwater since my days with a Sea & Sea Seamaster Pro, and switched to digital when the original Canon Rebel (300D) came out. I have an Ikelite housing (TTL) that I got about that time along with an Ikelite strobe. I added another Ikelite strobe last year. I shoot with a Canon 10-22mm and an Aquatica dome port for wide angle and a Canon 100mm lens/Ikelite port for macro. All of the above has served me pretty well but it's been trying at times dealing with the bulk and weight since I travel (like many of you) to some pretty remote places for diving.

 

I've naturally lusted after many of the more expensive housings but really haven't had a practical reason for switching (hard to justify spending thousands just to save a little on weight). Of course now there's no longer an option to switch housings but keep the camera body. (I'm overdue for a new camera anyway, though.) I'm finally getting to the point where I feel like I've sufficiently gotten my 'money's worth' from my current setup to consider upgrading. I'm looking for suggestions - pretty much everything, including put it all on Ebay and buy all new. So, what would you do? Figure on a budget NTE $8-9K, but naturally less is better.

 

Thanks for any help.

Edited April 3, 2010 by bubbless

[MikeO 5]

With that budget, you should be able to get something really nice. However, if I were you, I'd think about how much I dive, what I'm really looking for and then go from there. Do you need or even want video, for example? Have you been happy with an "entry level" DSLR? Have you even noticed issues with it? Remember that for every thousand or two you spend, you could have paid to travel somewhere to actually use the setup! If you're reasonably happy with Canon, if I were you, I'd look at either the new T2i or the 7D. Between the two, you have a very capable "entry level" DSLR (which, quite frankly, is a pretty darn good camera outright) and a really great DSLR with all the features you probably desire. If you are really looking to cut down on the size, Seatool makes very compact housings for the Canon Rebel series (not sure on their T2i intentions, but the one for the T1i is quite small). If I were getting a housing today for a 7D, I'd be looking at Nauticam and Aquatica. The 100mm is probably a keeper, but you might think about swapping the 10-22 for a Tokina 10-17 for wide angle. You should also consider what to do with the strobes. Ikelite strobes work wonderfully with Ike housings but if you're used to TTL, you'll likely want to get something else (INON?) that can do optical TTL if you go with a non-Ike housing. If you're not stuck on Canon, Check into a Nikon D90 and a housing for that . . .

 

 

Mike

[bubbless 0]

Thanks for the feedback, Mike. Between diving in the US (typically a few dives every couple of months, but not always with my camera these days) and an average of two to three dive trips per year to Caribbean and Pacific locations (usually 2-3 weeks each), my camera gets a fair amount of use. I'd say I'm averaging between 150 and 200 dives per year. That said, I can't honestly say that I feel that I've 'outgrown' my camera. I do believe I'd be perfectly happy with something along the lines of the T2i or 7D. I'm sure either is probably a pretty good step up from the initial Rebel days. There have been times when I've thought that video would be a nice to have feature, but honestly hadn't thought all that much about it - except maybe for when I've unexpected run into squadrons of eagle rays, or whale sharks, or mantas, or sea lions, or ..... Hmmm ... maybe video isn't such a bad idea. I tend mostly toward wide angle and enjoy shooting big stuff and reef scenes/walls/wrecks mostly although a recent trip Indonesia gave me a chance to get lots more practice with macro than I normally do.

 

Size and weight are two really big considerations for me, especially as international carriers in particular put more and more restrictions on baggage, but also due to the mere hassle factor on boats. I'll check out the Seatool, as well as the Nauticam and Aquatica, and do a bit more research on the camera bodies. Also, I've been reading a bit here this morning about the Tokina 10-17 lens - sounds like a quite popular choice. I have to admit I'm not as thrilled with the 10-22 as I thought I would be when I first moved from a Sigma 15mm FE. I guess whichever way I go (even keeping the lenses) the ports are going to have to go.

 

The strobes are definitely an issue for me, especially since I just added the second one last year. Otherwise this all would probably be a lot easier. Lastly, as far as Canon. I do have a few other lenses that I'd have to sell, but I honestly don't do a whole lot of land shots so it wouldn't hurt me too much. As you can see, I've got lots of decisions ... Too many choices!

[photovan 0]

If you're used to the Canons, a transition to the new models would be quite simple. Sounds like the T2i or 7D will certainly do the job for your needs. I think you'll find the housings available will be a big change from where you are at now.

 

And don't underestimate the addictive power of those moving pictures...

 

It's not going to replace my primary focus on stills, but I must say I am enjoying the option of being able to capture some video sequences to help tell a story, background a location and allow me to share some of those moments that just need to be moving... yes those movements do exist...

 

if you do get a video-capable camera, then you might want to budget for lights to go on the same arms with it... IKE have their LED/Strobe combo, and there is some discussion on an Inon option if you do decide to change to the Inon strobes.

[frisco 0]

I've been shooting photos underwater since my days with a Sea & Sea Seamaster Pro, and switched to digital when the original Canon Rebel (300D) came out. I have an Ikelite housing (TTL) that I got about that time along with an Ikelite strobe. I added another Ikelite strobe last year. I shoot with a Canon 10-22mm and an Aquatica dome port for wide angle and a Canon 100mm lens/Ikelite port for macro. All of the above has served me pretty well but it's been trying at times dealing with the bulk and weight since I travel (like many of you) to some pretty remote places for diving.

 

I've naturally lusted after many of the more expensive housings but really haven't had a practical reason for switching (hard to justify spending thousands just to save a little on weight). Of course now there's no longer an option to switch housings but keep the camera body. (I'm overdue for a new camera anyway, though.) I'm finally getting to the point where I feel like I've sufficiently gotten my 'money's worth' from my current setup to consider upgrading. I'm looking for suggestions - pretty much everything, including put it all on Ebay and buy all new. So, what would you do? Figure on a budget NTE $8-9K, but naturally less is better.

 

Thanks for any help.

 

Provided that your Aquatica dome works fine with the Tokina 10-17 and that your Ikelite strobe would work with/without TTL with an Aquatica housing (You should ask Aquatica), I would go for the following:

 

Canon 7D body

Aquatica housing for Canon 7D

Canon 250D diopter for super-macro work

Tokina 10-17 FE zoom

Zoom ring for the Tokina 10-17

 

If you like to travel lighter, then consider sselling your Ikelite strobes and buying two Inon Z-240 with optical cables rather than electrical wires (less water ways and way cheaper)

 

I did not make all the US$ calculations, but if you buy the Inons in Hong Kong or Taiwan and you are able to sell your old kit on ebay, your budget seems pretty fine !!!

 

All the Best,

 

Francesco

[bubbless 0]

Thanks for the feedback, Darren. (Love your website, BTW!) Good point re: the light for video.

 

Guess I've got my work cut out for me figuring which direction to go in. Wish there were a simple upgrade path...

Edited April 3, 2010 by bubbless

[bubbless 0]

Thanks for the suggestions, Francesco. I'll definitely give Aquatica a call. And selling the strobes might be the best idea as they are very heavy. I'm packing for a trip right now, and with just photo and dive gear packed I've already got 85 pounds between a checked bag and carry-on. (And I dive with a lightweight backplate and wing!) Good thing the airlines I'll be on for this trip don't weigh carry on-bags! Later this year I'm not going to be this lucky.

[MikeO 5]

And rather than go with a diopter inside the lens port, you might also consider one of the SubSee flip macro adapters from Reefnet. Might be a better choice than the 250D diopter.

The weight of my old DS-125s was one reason I switched over to the INON Z-240 strobes . . .

 

Mike

[bubbless 0]

Agree completely re: the DS-125/160. Too bad I bought the DS-160 so recently. I should have made the decision to start fresh last year. What is it they say about hindsight?

 

Thanks for the suggestion about the Reefnet macro adapters. Learned something new (and not for the first time today!). Appreciate all the help.

 

Ellen

[DiverPam 13]

"Provided that your Aquatica dome works fine with the Tokina 10-17 and that your Ikelite strobe would work with/without TTL with an Aquatica housing (You should ask Aquatica)."

 

 

I have an Aquatica housing with Ikelite Strobes and they work fine without TTL. I had the strobes when I moved to this housing setup and could not afford change to something else, but I have been very satisfied. I have the Nikonos Bulkheads on my housing and use the connectors that are Ikelite to Nikonos.

 

And ask Aquatica if your current port will still work - if so, that cuts down on some of your costs.

 

Good luck - DiverPam

[bubbless 0]

Thanks very much! All good tips.

 

Think I'll be putting lots of stuff up for sale once I get home from my trip. Too bad it doesn't seem like I'll be able to get my hands on a Tokina 10-17mm to try out with my current setup in time before I leave.

 

I've also started going through reviews and it looks like going the T2i route would definitely save some weight (about .75#) as well as some money. Any overriding reason I should focus on the 7D?

 

Ellen

Edited April 3, 2010 by bubbless

[TheRealDrew 0]

I've also started going through reviews and it looks like going the T2i route would definitely save some weight (about .75#) as well as some money. Any overriding reason I should focus on the 7D?

 

 

The 7D has a 100% viewfinder, higher burst rate, a level in the viewfinder, weather proofing and other features. The T2i has some things the 7D doesn't, such aThat being said the T2i looks like an impressive camera so far, and maybe even more so if you have been shooting the 300D and liking it - in other words alot of the same general features and handling of the camera is something you are familiar with. And if you have not felt limited by your current Rebel, the odds are the the improvements in the new Rebel will keep you going for awhile. I have not looked at all the Noise/ISO comparisons, but from what I have seen the T2i will hold its own against the 7D.

 

Here are tests with a pre-production 550 Tests Of course all tests need to be taken with a grain of salt sometimes

 

Some reviews

 

550D/T2i Preview Imaging Resource

Imaging Resource 7D

DP Review T2i

DP Review 7D

 

People love the 7D around here, not sure if I have seen anything much on WP about the T2i. But as you mentioned, size and weight are factors. A bit broad stroke, usually housings for the Rebels run at a lower cost and size then the counterparts for other models. (Meaning if there is a 5D Mark II and Rebel housing from the same manufacturer, the Rebel one is usually smaller, lighter and less money.) But the housings for the T2i are generally not released, though Ikelite has one out. Not sure if it is shipping though and Ikes may a bit bigger.

 

I have a 5D Mark II (not housed) and a 40D and 50D (housed) and giving serious consideration to the T2i myself much for the same reasons - size and weight. The only thing is I generally find handling the larger bodies and control layouts on the 30D/40D/50/5D Mark II a bit easier to access based on the layout of the controls, more so for above water (I like having seperate wheels for Shutter and Aperture) though on other cameras the button press thing to change the dial was something I sort of got used to.

[bubbless 0]

The 7D has a 100% viewfinder ...

That definitely would be a nice feature.

 

That being said the T2i looks like an impressive camera so far, and maybe even more so if you have been shooting the 300D and liking it - in other words alot of the same general features and handling of the camera is something you are familiar with. And if you have not felt limited by your current Rebel, the odds are the the improvements in the new Rebel will keep you going for awhile.

Yep, and there's something to be said for not knowing what you're missing.

 

Thanks for all the links. I'm trying to read up on pretty much everything I can lay my hands on. I really haven't kept up with all the new models/features/developments. Although my Ike has honestly served me well for quite a number of years now, I'm interested in going with something smaller and lighter, so if I go with the T2i I'll likely be waiting at least a couple of months.

 

The only thing is I generally find handling the larger bodies and control layouts on the 30D/40D/50/5D Mark II a bit easier to access based on the layout of the controls, more so for above water (I like having seperate wheels for Shutter and Aperture) though on other cameras the button press thing to change the dial was something I sort of got used to.

Yeah, agree. I think I've gotten used to the button but likewise would rather the separate wheels.

 

Thanks again for all the info. It's already seeming a much less daunting exercise than when I first started considering upgrading. Now, where can I find that Tokina 10-17?

[frisco 0]

And rather than go with a diopter inside the lens port, you might also consider one of the SubSee flip macro adapters from Reefnet. Might be a better choice than the 250D diopter.

The weight of my old DS-125s was one reason I switched over to the INON Z-240 strobes . . .

 

Mike

 

Mike the SubSee +10 diopter + adapter costs a fortune compared to the Canon 250D !!!! If you can anticipate what are you goinf to find/shoot at ech divesite, I would rather buy a second lens with that money !!!!

 

All the Best ..... Francesco

[MikeO 5]

Mike the SubSee +10 diopter + adapter costs a fortune compared to the Canon 250D !!!! If you can anticipate what are you goinf to find/shoot at ech divesite, I would rather buy a second lens with that money !!!!

 

All the Best ..... Francesco

 

Yep, it's all about choices. I prefer to have the flexiblity of the SubSee. It depends on what you want to do.

 

Mike

[bubbless 0]

So, since the other day when I first asked this question I've found myself continually going back and forth between the T2i and the 7D and I'm still undecided. Part of me says that given how long I tend to keep cameras and other gear that I should spring for the max I can afford, but my other more practical side is ... well ... tending toward the practical.

 

I'm off for a couple weeks (with my old setup) but hope to be back with some decisions made. I'll keep you posted on what I end up with. Thanks again for all the feedback.

[stever 0]

when all is said and done, i don't think there's going to be much difference in the total weight of the kit when you add up ports, flash, arms, etc. given that, i think the 7D housing is a better investment

 

on the other side, you can afford to have a second T2i for the cost of a 7D

[bubbless 0]

See, you had me on the first sentence. Then you had to go and complicate it with that practical side again! I have to admit that I am used to traveling with two camera bodies. But I'm sure you're right about the weight, once it all comes together - and moving away from the Ikelite strobes will make a big difference in itself.

[Otara 0]

I like the 7D, but think many of its advantages are really abovewater rather than below water.

 

A larger body abovewater is good, underwater, smaller is better in my view and it impacts on housing price too. And carrying it is noticeable, even if you dont notice it when travelling with everything else lumped together.

 

Being able to get two bodies is a big bonus too.

 

Otara

[bubbless 0]

Yeah, looks like the best idea will be to keep reading reviews in the meantime and get my hands on everything I can (literally) to see how it all feels in my hands. Either way I go it still ends up being a lot of money overall and I want to be as sure as possible that I'm making the right move. I'd have to wait for the Nauticam housing for the T2i to be released anyway.

[Alex_Tattersall 90]

Latest update is that the production Nauticam housing for T2i/ 550D should be available in mid May.

[bubbless 0]

Latest update is that the production Nauticam housing for T2i/ 550D should be available in mid May.

 

Excellent! I've also now got a Tokina 10-17mm FE on its way to me so the upgrades are beginning. Maybe if I spread the purchases out a bit it won't seem like quite so much money!

[Mike L 0]

Its all about the presentation, spread it out a bit and it doesnt hurt as much...but that first dive with the new rig, you forget all about it! haha (til the CC bill lands)

[bubbless 0]

Just a quick update: So, I've been hard at work pacing my upgrades and selling off some gear. I have the T2i and the Tok 10-17 in hand and am waiting on more info on Aquatica and Nauticam options for housings. I've also been reading up on mini-domes and the more I read, the more I think that's the route I want to go for the wide angle side of things. I'm also thinking I'll stick with the Ike strobes for now and maybe move to a lighter weight option like the Inons down the road a bit when my bank account recovers. I don't shoot macro all that much, although I do like my Canon 100mm for close-ups (fish faces, etc.) so I may just focus on WA for now and deal with the macro later. Then again, PNG trip is coming up ...

 

Thanks again for the help in wading through all of this!

[bubbless 0]

Hi again. I'd like your thoughts on a couple of things. At this point I've sold my old gear with the exception of my Ike strobes. I was planning on using them with the Nauticam housing. However, I've started wondering if that's really the best way to go given that I'd really like to end up with a significantly lighter/smaller setup. I was thinking that long term I'd switch to Inons but now am wondering if I should just bite the bullet and make the move now rather than getting the Ike bulkhead on the housing. I'm kind of feeling like I may be being penny wise and pound foolish so to speak, if that's the way I'm going to go in the long run.

 

I'm also going with the Zen mini-dome for WA with the Tokina FE and was planning on the Nauticam Macro Port 87 for my Canon 100mm. Another recent thread about putting a macro lens behind a dome port got me wondering whether that's an option for me (again, with the idea that I'd like things slimmed down for travel as much as possible). Realize this could be a ridiculous question, but I'm still learning.

 

Thanks for all the help.