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Heinrichs-Weikamp Remote Slave Unit issues

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Was wondering if anyone else was having issues with it.

 

I hooked mine up to a Sea&Sea strobe and it seemed to work OK.

 

Took it on a trip, powered up the strobe and the "ready" light wouldnt even light.

Removing the sync cord from the strobe made the strobe work.

Removing the RSU from the other end of the cable made the strobe work.

 

I left it a few days, played with it again and it *worked*

 

However, now it seems to somewhat randomly either fire or not fire (on land in my dining room) when I try to trigger it with the flash from my Nikon D300

 

Very irritating as I need something reliable.

 

I guess I may need to go with the Ikelite solution but all my strobes are Sea & Sea

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Seems we are going down similiar paths. I don't know what the best answer is for you. I just ordered a couple of Ikelite controllers, but I have both Ike and S&S strobes. Good luck and let me know if you find something that works well for you.

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Hi

 

i also have a RSU from Heinrichs-Weikamp, in a inon Z-240 strobe, this sensor is very sensitive, i have a few problems, also...

 

check the pin's to see if they are ok, because one of the problem i had, it was a broken pin...

 

regards

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Thanks guys, I am going the Ikelite route and selling off the S&S strobes that I got.

 

I have heard great things about the Ike controllers from someone who uses them all over the world. I dont have time for sensitive and flaky honestly, I need something that works.

 

Just a shame it seems to be hard to find used Ike strobes at decent pricing.

 

I emailed Reefphoto (where I got the RSU) but so far no response...

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You could also use your video lights for more additional lighting. I've carried some strobes for some caves photo shoots where other team members brought video lights and that helped out as well. Any well strobg and well diffused light adds some depth to the cave.

 

 

Ben

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The Heinrichs-Weikamp i-TTL strobe converter was not designed to work with slave units. Just hard wired strobes. And primarily a single strobe, though it has worked reliably when I have hard wired two, or even three Hartenberger strobes to it.

 

However, every strobe connected to a H-W device depends on some kind of battery that is used to power the H-W circuitry. In the case of the external H-W which they sold directly, this was a small Lithium polymer battery also contained in the H-W external converter. You have to open the external converter every two or three days to recharge. And opening is a nuisance. A separate charge cap would have made the converter much easier to use and less prone to flooding.

 

Sea & Sea has "repackaged" the H-W circuitry for their own converter and powered it with a throw away battery that lasts much longer. Several German companies also offer this kind of converter, a Mk III H-W powered by the same throw away battery as the S&S converter. I haven't used one yet, but have read that this battery lasts for many dives, not just a day or two. One advantage of the H-W converter is that it can be configured to work with a variety of strobes by resetting some of the small DIP switches on the circuit board, which is great if you change strobe types.

 

Ikelite uses their own Ikelite designed TTL converter. The Ikelite converter has the advantage of drawing its power from the NiMH battery pack in the strobe(s). This means that as long as the battery pack has enough power left to shoot the strobe, the converter works, too. No separate recharging. No throw away batteries. This is a BIG ADVANTAGE that simplifies the strobe game considerably. I can't say whether or how well the Ikelite converter would work with any slave device, but I can say that I have been impressed with how well the strobes have worked on the dives I've done with them.

 

Fred

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The Heinrichs-Weikamp i-TTL strobe converter was not designed to work with slave units. Just hard wired strobes. And primarily a single strobe, though it has worked reliably when I have hard wired two, or even three

Fred

 

Thanks Fred, but I think we are talking about different units. Mine is the RSU, not the iTTL.

This unit has no place for a battery and no way to open it up.

Nick

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The RSU is very sensitive to ambient light. Even the ambient light found on a cloudy day underwater. This is the most likely cause of unreliable performance.

 

I built a shade for mine - which was the only way to get it firing reliably. By this I mean shading it completely. The darker you can make the ambient light, the more sensitive it becomes. So an almost complete shade produced the most reliable performance for me.

 

However, I subsequently built my own slave triggers because of my disappointment with the RSU. These have proved 100% reliable in all conditions. But were more expensive than the RSU and one offs, so not commercially available.

 

Alex

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The RSU is very sensitive to ambient light. Even the ambient light found on a cloudy day underwater. This is the most likely cause of unreliable performance.

 

I built a shade for mine - which was the only way to get it firing reliably. By this I mean shading it completely. The darker you can make the ambient light, the more sensitive it becomes. So an almost complete shade produced the most reliable performance for me.

 

However, I subsequently built my own slave triggers because of my disappointment with the RSU. These have proved 100% reliable in all conditions. But were more expensive than the RSU and one offs, so not commercially available.

 

Alex

 

Thanks Alex. I dont really want to mess with covers etc so I am going to try the Ikelite solution.

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