Alex_Mustard 0 Posted October 5, 2010 A big glass dome is a pain to travel with, but think of the positives. Besides sharper corners, a heavy glass balances out the housing, making it very useful for ViDSLR to shoot video, with a more stable housing, instead of battling a camera which wants to go dome up all the time. Actually the Zen 230 is more positive than the Subal FE4, and really wants to float, so for video would benefit from a small trim weight on the bottom. When I get my own one I was thinking of making a velco trim weight for it. Alex Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Drew 0 Posted October 5, 2010 Interesting, Alex. I've not used the 230 but the 200 and that wanted to sink. Well it'll still beat an acrylic port anytime. As for the ballast weight, I suggest you put the weight on the top. At the bottom, it may get knocked during handling. What I suggest you do is have the housing neutral negative with the weight and positive without it. Then in any emergency when you have to let go of the housing, just pull off the weight and it'll float up, hopefully to be collected later after you deal with the emergency. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marcelo Krause 1 Posted October 5, 2010 Hi Alex Do you know how the 16-35 compares to the 14-24 regarding image quality? And like Alex said, I would think twice about taking the lens shade of the Tokina 10-17. On the DX one could get a 16mmFE (35mm equiv.) field of view and then zoom in. On the FX one will have the 17mmFE field of view and then zoom out. I don't know if the later will have great advantages. Marcelo Krause Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
