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peterbkk

L&M Sola 1200

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Thanks for the review Peter. Do you have any video footage with the lights we can see ?

 

Here is some footage of the lights working under extreme conditions (1 meter visibility).

 

http://www.peterwalker.com/peterwalker.com/Seahorse.html

 

Great light!

 

Regards

Peter

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Here is some footage of the lights working under extreme conditions (1 meter visibility).

 

Very nice.

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I am really impressed by this light. I really like its ability to change the angle of coverage so I can use it as a video light and dive light.

 

Do you guys have any experience traveling with it to EU countries? Any problems as it is factory sealed and I can't remove the battery from the unit.

 

You should be fine, I've flown to large parts of the rest of Europe from London. The only country I've ever had problems with battery powered kit is Israel whose officials insisted on taking my laptop PSU and post it to me some months later (obnoxious little Israeli custom officials brings out the worst in me).

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You should be fine, I've flown to large parts of the rest of Europe from London. The only country I've ever had problems with battery powered kit is Israel whose officials insisted on taking my laptop PSU and post it to me some months later (obnoxious little Israeli custom officials brings out the worst in me).

Thanks. Did u keep it in checked or in hand luggage?

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I purchased a clone of your setup minus the the center light, along with a sony XR550v, Your information very valuable as well the near negative boyuncy, thanks

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I purchased a clone of your setup minus the the center light, along with a sony XR550v, Your information very valuable as well the near negative boyuncy, thanks

 

Great. I hope you have as much success as I have had with this setup.

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Here is some footage of the lights working under extreme conditions (1 meter visibility).

 

http://www.peterwalker.com/peterwalker.com/Seahorse.html

 

Great light!

 

Regards

Peter

 

 

Nicely done video, well told. Also like the music that comes on with the seahorse. I have used the piece myself on a project and it is a great one to teach cutting to the music with.

Steve

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Earlier this week i collected 3 x Sola 1200 video lights from my friend David at ScubaCam here in Singapore.

 

After the first 2 dives with them, I thought I would share my experiences, updating this thread over the next month or so as I use it more often.

 

Two of the lights are mounted on loc-line flexi-arms on the top of the Bluefin Pro control arms. The third light, on a slightly shorter flexi-arm is mounted on the top of the housing. Photo of the lights, setup in a macro configuration below.

 

Firstly I tested a full cycle on full power in the sink at home. Lasted about 63 minutes, some 7 minutes short of the advertised 70 minutes. I expect to get slightly longer burn times once the batteries have run a few cycles. Also will get longer with a more normal on-off pattern of use. But all seemed well so I took them diving.

 

Now, for convenience sake, my two test dives were at Palau Hantu off Singapore's southern coast, in a murky sea surrounded by oil refineries, land reclamation projects and one of the busiest shipping ports in the world. Visibility on a good day is 3 meters. More typical is 1 to 2 meters. But the area does have a huge macro population including nudis and seahorses. Enabled me to test the lights down to 14 meters, just to make sure that there are no flooding problems.

 

My tests showed that:

 

  • none of the lights flooded!
  • running the lights on a mix of full and half power, the batteries easily last 100 minutes over two dives, and longer
  • the light is bright and, with 3 of them, give a broad even coverage (need to test later in WA conditions)
  • the light color is clear and white and very constant
  • easy to operate and, with a bit of practice, easy to set to the right output
  • three lights give a lot of flexibility for positioning, enabling macro lighting in awkward places and allowing trucking shots without losing light coverage
  • setting up the lights on the housing takes just a few seconds
  • taking the lights off the housing is also fast, enabling you to switch to a waterproof surface camera in a minute, depending on which port is on the camera
  • not having battery pods and cables is convenient
  • arms and lights fold forward under the front of the housing handles for easy handling when not in use
  • significantly lighter and more convenient for travel than any previous light system I have owned
  • chargers are universal, small and light

 

Lessons learned:

 

  • without the battery pods the housing is now a bit top heavy. Not a problem for handheld but not good if I want to put the camera down. I will make a lead-shot pouch and use some straps to hold it under the housing to move the balance lower.
  • need to drill a small hole in the loc-line at both top and bottom to get the seawater out more easily.

 

So far very impressed. Looks like L&M have kicked a big goal with this light.

 

Early January I will take the camera and lights to Lembeh and Bunaken so I'll update this review after some intense use.

 

Regards

Peter

 

post-4537-1292080626.jpg

 

I just bought my own pair of Sola 1200s as well and can't wait to stretch their legs on our Red Sea trip. I love that they are only a fraction of the weight of the old L&M Sunray lights, are so much easier to charge and prep, and you can even convert them as needed to a hands-free dive light (just need to buy the wrist strap) - pretty nifty!!!

 

I did hear a story of someone finding a lonely Sola 600 light (minus arm or camera housing) laying on the bottom at one of the dive sites around Sydney a couple of months ago. This tells me that the snap attachment to the arms is not fail safe and, while before there was a battery cord that would be a back up to keep the Sunray light from sinking into the depths, you don't have this luxury anymore. As a result, I've decided to take a bit of string and tie the light heads to the arms about halfway down in case the camera gets banged in a way that knocks the light off.... Might be a once in a blue moon occurrence but I don't want to take my chances...

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I did hear a story of someone finding a lonely Sola 600 light (minus arm or camera housing) laying on the bottom at one of the dive sites around Sydney a couple of months ago. This tells me that the snap attachment to the arms is not fail safe and, while before there was a battery cord that would be a back up to keep the Sunray light from sinking into the depths, you don't have this luxury anymore. As a result, I've decided to take a bit of string and tie the light heads to the arms about halfway down in case the camera gets banged in a way that knocks the light off.... Might be a once in a blue moon occurrence but I don't want to take my chances...

 

I came to the same conclusion. I figured that it might be possible to snap open a locline arm and lose the light-head, for example, when struggling with a strong current on an ascent line...

 

So, I bought some strong brass picture-frame wire (no rust). It runs invisibly down the centre of the locline arm and wraps around the screw-head that holds the locline arm to the light-head and, at the other end, to the housing mount. The wire is about 2 inches (5 cm) longer than the locline. Invisible but adds some protection.

 

I have not yet, after about 50 dives, snapped a locline underwater but I have done it accidentally in the rinse tank. The brass wire worked.

 

Photos attached.

 

post-4537-1302487227.jpg

post-4537-1302487207.jpg

 

A friend of mine who works in the aircraft industry is looking for a stainless steel "figure of eight" washer so I can replace the "brass wire loop around the screwhead" with a better engineered solution of attaching the wire.

 

Regards

Peter

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I`m looking to buy pair of Sola 1200 dor my 7D setup, you guys have more video with these?

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Peter

I purchased the the " complete Sola Video arm mount kit (p/n 802-0260) but I need the female part that attaches to the housing any helpwould be great

Skip

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So, I bought some strong brass picture-frame wire (no rust). It runs invisibly down the centre of the locline arm and wraps around the screw-head that holds the locline arm to the light-head and, at the other end, to the housing mount. The wire is about 2 inches (5 cm) longer than the locline. Invisible but adds some protection.

 

Great idea Peter. I will be getting some new Keldans soon and will do the same thing. However, like you, I have never had a loc lin attached light ever come off, even in some horrible currents in Tahiti.

Steve

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So, I bought some strong brass picture-frame wire (no rust). It runs invisibly down the centre of the locline arm and wraps around the screw-head that holds the locline arm to the light-head and, at the other end, to the housing mount. The wire is about 2 inches (5 cm) longer than the locline. Invisible but adds some protection.

 

Great idea Peter. I will be getting some new Keldans soon and will do the same thing. However, like you, I have never had a loc lin attached light ever come off, even in some horrible currents in Tahiti.

Steve

 

Hi Steve,

 

A bit of extra insurance never hurts. I have snapped the locline in the rinse tank so I know that the system would work in practice. But, it is also important to check the screws that hold the arms to the housing as they are not long and, if they work loose, could also come off underwater. I use a drop of loctite to secure those screws.

 

Regards

Peter

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Hi Peter, are the solas dimmable from the handle of your housing?

 

Thanks Alan.

 

No. The light controls are on the light heads. I doubt if an infra-red signal would carry that far through water. It'd have to be a radio signal.

 

That's one feature from the previous system that I do miss but it is only a slight inconvenience.

 

Regards

Peter

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Is the Sola 4000 available yet or has any one tried a prototype.

Looking to get 2 for my 5DMkII rig

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Apparently it's not yet ready.

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Apparently it's not yet ready.

 

Thanks Drew any idea on when it will be available?

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Thanks Drew any idea on when it will be available?

 

Backscatter and L&M are estimating August at the moment.

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Backscatter and L&M are estimating August at the moment.

Thanks I better start saving now.

:)

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What do you do when the rechargeable battery runs out? I don't believe they are user replaceable. If you send them back to L & M , how much for a replacement battery?

Steve

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What do you do when the rechargeable battery runs out? I don't believe they are user replaceable. If you send them back to L & M , how much for a replacement battery?

Steve

 

We've all been firmly conditioned by all manufacturers, (cars, electronics, etc.) to the "planned obsolescence" concept, right?

 

I doubt if too many users will ever get through the 1,000 cycles before they buy the latest and greatest lighting system...

 

Regards

Peter

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Maybe for you, Peter. I've repacked my NiMH a few times over for my Halogen, HID and HMI lights. And it's never close to 1k times. more like 5-600... if that!

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Maybe for you, Peter. I've repacked my NiMH a few times over for my Halogen, HID and HMI lights. And it's never close to 1k times. more like 5-600... if that!

 

:)

 

Drew , while this is a fair comment based on your experience with NiMH batteries - Peter's post is about his SOLA 1200 lights that use Lithium Iron batteries.

 

Lets keep on track.

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Mr Mooney,

Actually PeterBkk's comments looked to me like a comment on marketing of products in general, so it's an open comment. :) Moreover, repacking of Li-Ion is also common so the principle of repacking instead of purchasing a new battery aptly applies, so long as the cells are the same. In fact Li-Ion die after a certain time (age) more often than the number of recharges, which is a factor with NiMH/NiCad batteries.

Now with the SOLA1200, L&M sealed the batteries in, which would mean a bit more work to repack. I haven't ripped one apart yet so I can't tell but I can't imagine for ease of assembly, that L&M would make it difficult to pull the cells out.

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