Lens change on the boat?

[malley1717 0]

Hello--

 

Just wondering how often you do a lens change (dslr) on the boat--not a liveaboard but more like just a 2 tank dive situation. This question really stems from my camera bag choice. I love my pelican case becuase i can bring everything with me on the boat and i dont have to worry about extra lenses, ports, batteries, cords, etc getting wet from splash. I am just moving into a dslr. If a surface interval lens change is too hard/risky, then i can just bring the camera in a cooler and leave the extra lenses etc on shore. what do you think?

[DiverPam 13]

On a 2 tank boat dive with my DSLR - not yet. As tempting as that may sound...I would not on a small boat. Liveaboard yes, but that is a different scenario.

 

I think you are setting yourself up for disaster. Increases your chances of flooding your setup by doing this.

 

Ask yourself a few questions.

Do I really have the time between dives to do this right (and not rush the change out)?

What are my objectives (shooting wise) when I go in the water?

Do the advantages outway the risks to my gear?

Do I have the space to accomplish a change out on a small boat?

Do you like people looking over you as you change out your gear?

Can I use the 2nd dive to work on my skills with the current camera setup? And maybe try another setup later in the day or tomorrow?

And..do I have enough insurance coverage on my gear to cover me when that flood happens? If not, then you may be doing this

 

Just my 2 cents worth (there may be others on here who do this all of the time though). Good luck with your new DSLR setup. - DiverPam

[Alex_Mustard 0]

I think it depends on the diving and what you are used to. I think with any system - you have to decide on your care routine - and what you will and will not do and stick to it. There is nothing worse than having a flood when you change

 

I have always changed lenses on open boats - done it 100s and 100s of times. But do I recommend others do it? No. Big floods almost always happen at the start of dives - when kit is not put together correctly and the chances of this increase with a lens change on the boat.

 

If you want to do it - it has to be your decision.

 

Alex

[vkire 0]

Hello--

 

Just wondering how often you do a lens change (dslr) on the boat--not a liveaboard but more like just a 2 tank dive situation. This question really stems from my camera bag choice. I love my pelican case becuase i can bring everything with me on the boat and i dont have to worry about extra lenses, ports, batteries, cords, etc getting wet from splash. I am just moving into a dslr. If a surface interval lens change is too hard/risky, then i can just bring the camera in a cooler and leave the extra lenses etc on shore. what do you think?

Unless there is an air-conditioned cabin and a long surface interval to give you plenty of time to do things right, I wouldn't do it. The two times I did it I had two different problems - first time I forgot to remove the lens cap off the lens while I was rushing to switch lenses/ports (!) and discovered that when I was 50 ft under water. :-) The second time the port fogged up due to humidity.

[Kilili 0]

Well, my philosophy is to never open the housing on any kind of open boat. Less potential for flooding or other problems that way.

 

I've insurance, but that doesn't help when problems are encountered during the trip.

Edited January 13, 2011 by Kilili

[Aussiebyron 57]

Hi Malley,

 

I think it comes down to a little bit of common sense and a bit of experience. I have done most of my dives out of open boats and I can't see the problem with changing over lenses between dives. Small pelican case which can hold the extra port and lens is ideal and also a chamois towel is good to dry yourself before changing things around. I always have a small plastic bag with extra o-rings and silicon in the pelican case if need be.

 

If weather conditions or crowded boats are an issue then dont do it. Dont rush anything. Double check and idiot check also important. If your not comfortable in doing it on the boat dont do it.

 

Under the right conditions a lens change will only take you a couple of minutes.

 

Regards Mark

[Viz'art 24]

I don't like to do it, but will do so on occasion, but a lot depends on the boat, weather and how crowded it is. it also depends on the agenda, sometime I will have many lens and ports configuration I need to try and get data from and the only solution to get the job done is swapping lenses on the boat, but rest assure, my friend that, Murphy's law being what it is, I will more then likely end up with the wrong lens at the wrong time with the wrong subject. C'est la vie :-(

 

On a separate but similar topic, I often will go through up to twenty change in a row when testing new lens combination with various ports and extensions, at one point you get the feel of your gear and you can sense when everything is in the right place, don't get me wrong a reasonable dose of paranoia is healthy when dealing with water and cameras, but many simply overdo it and get in trouble. Proper equipment maintenance is like sex education, we all know how to do it, but few are willing to discuss it openly

 

My only down to earth recommendation is that, should you decide to go from one port to another (WA to Macro, etc.) then get a rear port cap, this will keep the O-ring on your standby port free of junk.

Edited January 13, 2011 by Viz'art

[malley1717 0]

fogging would probably be my biggest concern. i opened my compact setup once to change battery in between dives and had a lot of bad fogging--the air was very humid. how would one avoid this--disicant packs?

[Aussiebyron 57]

Honestly I never had a fogging problem with DSLR when shooting stills as the housing has alot more air inside. On the other hand I had some fogging issues when shooting alot of Video on my D90. The Sensor would warm up and the lens would fog in the inside. This was in tropical water doing alot of video.

 

Regards Mark

[Panda 3]

The biggest issue I've had opening the housing on a small boat is dripping into the housing from my wet hood/hair. Admittedly it's always been the compact and only to change the battery.

[Viz'art 24]

The biggest issue I've had opening the housing on a small boat is dripping into the housing from my wet hood/hair. Admittedly it's always been the compact and only to change the battery.

 

That also a good point which I tend to forget about as I have pretty much the same hair style as Alex_Mustard , dripping air is no major concern for me I like to think of it as a quick dry capillary setup!

 

Wet suit wrist cuffs can be a source of concern, keeping your elbow below the level of the wrist & housing will help greatly

Edited January 13, 2011 by Viz'art

[Aussiebyron 57]

Thats where a large Chamois towel comes in handy. You can dry yourself off and also have something to wrap your dome/port up with if need be.

 

Regards Mark

[davephdv 0]

Agree with others.

 

I do it occasionally, but only under extreme conditions.

 

My rule has always been to assemble the rig and test before getting on the boat. Quick changes on a boat tend to lead to leaks.

 

Agree with others.

 

I do it occasionally, but only under extreme conditions.

 

My rule has always been to assemble the rig and test before getting on the boat. Quick changes on a boat tend to lead to leaks.

[davehicks 99]

I'll often bring a port/lens change along with me just in case the conditions and visibility turn out to be fundamentally at odds with my initial setup. Living in the PNW, this is not such an unusual situation. If I can make a switch without having to rush I think it's just fine. If you are pretty comfortable with your rig, it's not too difficult. Just make sure to dry things off well, have your port and lens ready for the switch, and be careful to seal and test the reassembled system. Just be sure you have plenty of time. The worst thing is to feel rushed, make a mistake that leaves you with a lens cap in place for a flood.

Edited January 15, 2011 by davehicks

[stewsmith 14]

I agree with Alex. I have done it myself quite a few times, but only when the conditions are right to allow it to be done properly. If I am on a boat in Lembeh for instance there isn't really an issue with it. On the other hand if I am on a shelter free boat somewhere where there is plenty of swell and rain then I wouldn't attempt it. At the end of the day, you know what the risks are and if you are prepared to take those risks when they are high, you could end up paying the price for it.

 

Stew

[loftus 42]

I'll often bring a port/lens change along with me just in case the conditions and visibility turn out to be fundamentally at odds with my initial setup. Living in the PNW, this is not such an unusual situation. If I can make a switch without having to rush I think it's just fine. If you are pretty comfortable with your rig, it's not too difficult. Just make sure to dry things off well, have your port and lens ready for the switch, and be careful to seal and test the reassembled system. Just be sure you have plenty of time. The worst thing is to feel rushed, make a mistake that leaves you with a lens cap in place for a flood.

Or like the time I rushed to put things together when there was a whaleshark swimming around the boat, and I jumped in shooting away for 10 minutes before I realized there was no card in the camera.. Probably an essential piece of kit for port changes etc on a small boat is a good dry bag.

[Alex_Mustard 0]

I have always found that my photography is better when I change lenses between dives. I find I am more productive when I change perspective and give myself a fresh challenge. So this means I am invariably changing lenses all the time.

 

That said, I know many other photographers who shoot better by doing several days with one lens, really getting in the zone with it, before changing to another lens for a couple of days.

 

Alex

[stewsmith 14]

Or like the time I rushed to put things together when there was a whaleshark swimming around the boat, and I jumped in shooting away for 10 minutes before I realized there was no card in the camera.. Probably an essential piece of kit for port changes etc on a small boat is a good dry bag.

 

 

Only silly people do things like this. Obviously I am one of the silly people.

 

Stew

[Aussiebyron 57]

I think we all have done it but some of us just dont tell anyone ;-)

 

Cheers Mark

[greedo5678 1]

In a rush i managed to setup and travel and hour and a half out to a wreck, leaving both batteries on charge in my room on dry land. Didnt even realise until i was 10m down on the first dive!

 

As for changing lenses, i always give myself at least an hour surface interval which is enough time to dry off, cup of tea/coke, flick through the first dives pics and decide, like alex, to change perspective for the second dive, or get in the zone with the same lens. Also depends on the site of course.

 

Our boat is covered so offers the ability to change.

 

Check out a swimmers towel too. Like the ones the high divers use. Think they are made of chamois and super absorbent.

 

Olly

[Dunadin 2]

I change the lens quite often on the boat. Most of my diving is on the California Channel Islands off rather large boats (~60 ft). Unfortunately one never knows what the visibility is going to be, so I always take my macro and a mid-wide angle with the ports in a Pelican case with me. Opening the lens port very carefully and drying off the area around the O-ring immediately after opening, I've never had a problem so far (knock on wood). Just in case, I also have flood insurance. At least fogging is not an issue in SoCal.

[Damo 4]

Done it once on a 2 tank dive outing in a large rib.

 

Had to do it out of dire necessity because I had misaligned the focus gear mechanism- and my first dive was spent howling infrustration.

It was a nervous few moments for sure!

Key factors- sun was shining-conditions were calm- and I had the room to do it.

Like the other guys say- risk assess- definately.

I risk assessed the boat and the number people in it- doing the surgery.

Think the less obvious thing to watch for is to mind the dripping water from your body!!!

 

Having read this thread it has given me the bravery to do it again if I had to- but for now anyway- I wouldn't make a habit of it.

Thanks guys- good thread!!!

[Alex_Mustard 0]

On a 2 tank boat dive with my DSLR - not yet. As tempting as that may sound...I would not on a small boat. Liveaboard yes, but that is a different scenario.

 

I think you are setting yourself up for disaster. Increases your chances of flooding your setup by doing this.

 

Ask yourself a few questions.

Do I really have the time between dives to do this right (and not rush the change out)?

What are my objectives (shooting wise) when I go in the water?

Do the advantages outway the risks to my gear?

Do I have the space to accomplish a change out on a small boat?

Do you like people looking over you as you change out your gear?

Can I use the 2nd dive to work on my skills with the current camera setup? And maybe try another setup later in the day or tomorrow?

And..do I have enough insurance coverage on my gear to cover me when that flood happens? If not, then you may be doing this

 

Just my 2 cents worth (there may be others on here who do this all of the time though). Good luck with your new DSLR setup. - DiverPam

 

Hey Pam - did the camera survive yesterday? ;-)

 

Alex

[Drew 0]

I change lenses, batteries and cards quite often on the RIB because I spend an entire day out and have to change stuff, especially if there is super action and I run through the batteries on the camera and strobes. That's where choosing the right housing for the type of diving you do is important. If you are shooting strobeless near surface stuff at high fps, a housing which allows one to change CF cards without disassembling the housing is very important. Housing like Aquatica, which require lens removal due to the zoom gears, is really unwieldy for that sort of work.

The technique to change lens and other stuff is pretty simple. Make sure you have a dry lint free chamois to dry your arms and hands, as well as hair on head and the housing. Don't work with your head directly over the housing, instead tilt the housing so you can look inside at angle. Be methodical and not rush, checking the o-rings for a proper fit. Take a few test shots to test your gear is fitted properly and strobes are firing.

[scorpio_fish 5]

Housing like Aquatica, which require lens removal due to the zoom gears, is really unwieldy for that sort of work.

 

I haven't removed a lens in my Aquatica housings in many years. Maybe you mean Ikelite and their unique gear sleeves.