full power with my ds 125 ikelite strobes

[FOTODUIKER 0]

Hello ,

 

for a longer time i use 2 x ds125 strobes with my cam a nikon d80 in a hugyfot housing. when i put the strobes on full, they give less light than when i put them on 1/2 power.

 

i can't find a solution , so i hope you can help me

 

best greetings

Gery

[Stoo 46]

If I recall correctly, the TTL selection is right beside the full power on the power switch. Is it possible that you are just turning the switch a little too far, so that is in TTL mode, rather than full power? (I was going to suggest that the switch might be faulty, but if you are seeing it on both strobes, that would seem unlikely...)

 

S

[FOTODUIKER 0]

If I recall correctly, the TTL selection is right beside the full power on the power switch. Is it possible that you are just turning the switch a little too far, so that is in TTL mode, rather than full power? (I was going to suggest that the switch might be faulty, but if you are seeing it on both strobes, that would seem unlikely...)

 

S

good morning,

thx for the answer , but, i dont think the problem is in the strobes, the buttons are correct , it is just as they don t receve the correct question for power....... could it be , i m ussing a twin connection .... starting from one connection and than split to two strobes ? that the cable is not good ?

 

Or is in the housing..... i m not using a ttl module , i just want all the power witch is in the strobes ....

 

greetz

Gery

[Balrog 5]

With the knob on the strobes set to the manual positions, I don't think the cable has anything to do with the output. I it just gives the fire command, any quench signal should be ignored.

 

If you are using the manual controls on the back of an Ike camera housing with the strobes set to TTL, it might be a different story.

[FOTODUIKER 0]

With the knob on the strobes set to the manual positions, I don't think the cable has anything to do with the output. I it just gives the fire command, any quench signal should be ignored.

 

If you are using the manual controls on the back of an Ike camera housing with the strobes set to TTL, it might be a different story.

 

thx

 

the housing is hugyfot housing, no ttl module inside , .......

 

greetz

Gery

[FOTODUIKER 0]

thx

 

the housing is hugyfot housing, no ttl module inside , .......

 

greetz

Gery

 

From the factory Hugyfot i had some help , in the think work. So it wasn t the housing, i have no ttl , so ..... this night i was looking for a solution , using my one strobe cord. And i found out that the strobe himself was working fine.

 

I saw a big difference between 1/8 1/4 1/2 and full power, so trobes were working fine to.

 

It could only be the dual cord from ikelite and YES , i have the wrong one.

 

NO TTL means a dual cord with BLUE marks on it. i never needed , used all the power, except last weekend, i was playing with a 105 mm macro lens, 2x converter and diop +4 in dark water ..... so my need for light was high.

 

I m happy i found it , hope , if somebody else has the same problem, this can help :-)

 

greetz

Gery

[Cerianthus 55]

The cords ikelite marks with a blue band are the ttl ones, so i am not sure what you are saying.

 

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/sync_cords.html

[FOTODUIKER 0]

The cords ikelite marks with a blue band are the ttl ones, so i am not sure what you are saying.

 

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/sync_cords.html

 

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/sync_cord_d1x.html

 

Sync Cords for

Digital SLR Cameras

in Non Ikelite Housings

 

 

Nikonos protocol strobes do not operate TTL with most of the new digital cameras. These cameras may lock-up completely when sensing a standard strobe. These special 2-conductor sync cords allow our SubStrobes to operate in manual mode and provide fractional powers when used with a non-Ikelite housing.

 

These cords should be used for most digital camera installations in non-Ikelite camera housings with Nikonos bulkheads: Nexus, Seacam, Aquatica, Sea & Sea, Subal, et al. The Manual Controller can be utilized in conjunction with these sync cords to provide 10 power settings in half-stop increments with any DS model SubStrobe.

 

Please note that 5-conductor #4104.6 and #4104.62 sync cords look similar, but should not be connected to non-TTL digital systems. These cords should only be used to connect Ikelite TTL SubStrobes with Nikonos IV & V systems, film cameras in non-Ikelite housings, or compatible digital SLR cameras used with non-Ikelite TTL adapters & housings.

 

Use of Ikelite TTL adapters with compatible non-Ikelite digital SLR systems requires #4103.51 and #4103.52 digital sync cords identifiable with their blue band.

 

I think this is the problem , old cables and websites ......

Edited March 28, 2011 by FOTODUIKER

[diverdoug1 58]

With the knob on the strobes set to the manual positions, I don't think the cable has anything to do with the output. I it just gives the fire command, any quench signal should be ignored.

 

If you are using the manual controls on the back of an Ike camera housing with the strobes set to TTL, it might be a different story.

 

 

The problem arises when you have set your strobes to a manual setting, but the housing is set on a TTL mode. The pre-flash command from the houshing circuitry/camera will tell the strobe to fire (but instead of a pre-flash, the strobe willl fire at the manul set level). Sometimes, the strobe will be able to handle both flashes if the manual setting on the strobe is set low enough, but at higher manual strobe power settings, the strobe can not recover from the first flash triggered by the attempted camera preflash in time to give enough output at the time the "real" flash is needed. In an Ikelite housing, you would keep the strobes set at TTL, and then go to manual on the housing settings.

Edited April 6, 2011 by diverdoug1