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I've a small problem with my 10-17mm, that the aperture is sticking when at 10mm, so that all images are taken at f/3.5, whatever aperture I set.

 

The problem only occurs at 10mm, as soon as I zoom in slightly it is fine. Strange one.

 

Alex

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What makes figuring it out more difficult in this day and age is the fact that everything is electronic so it could be a camera to lens issue or a firmware/software issue in the lens or in the camera... Dang!

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I wouldn't be surprised that you've just worn the poor thing out Alex :)

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My mother always said to just give it a hard whack to set it straight.

 

Jack

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I've a small problem with my 10-17mm, that the aperture is sticking when at 10mm, so that all images are taken at f/3.5, whatever aperture I set.

 

The problem only occurs at 10mm, as soon as I zoom in slightly it is fine. Strange one.

 

Alex

I guess the place to start is with a good service/cleaning of the mechanics and electronics.

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I have also experienced 2 problems with my trusty old 10-17mm lately.

 

1) It appears that the tolerances were changed on the D7000's mounting plate, meaning I have to be exquisitely gentle in mounting the lens or the camera cannot read the current aperture. This is a major problem for me at the moment.

 

2) For those of you using the Nauticam zoom ring, be extremely careful when taking off the rubber zoom ring and replacing it with the Nauticam insert. The only thing holding the lens together at that junction is a piece of black tape, and too much jostling will remove the tape and allow the lens to come apart.

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Ooo err...I have to decide before every trip whether to take my DX or FX outfit. DX is still in contention because of the Tokina 10-17. Now I'm getting the wind up...Is mine about to let me down?

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I've a small problem with my 10-17mm, that the aperture is sticking when at 10mm, so that all images are taken at f/3.5, whatever aperture I set.

 

The problem only occurs at 10mm, as soon as I zoom in slightly it is fine. Strange one.

 

Alex

 

 

Alex, check the alignment of the diaphragm actuating lever in the back of the lens, it might be slightly off, one of the weakness of Nikon lenses is that they still uses a mechanical actuating lever for the aperture. Look at the lever closely while zooming back and forth and see it it moves, (it shouldn't) then depress it with your finger slightly (to simulate a smaller aperture) and zoom in and out again, if its the linkage problem, it will open up once you hit 10mm.

 

The lever might have been hit and pushed out of alignment, compare it to other lenses you have (I'm sure you must have a lens or two around you somewhere :) ) to see the alignment.

Edited by Viz'art

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I have also experienced 2 problems with my trusty old 10-17mm lately.

 

1) It appears that the tolerances were changed on the D7000's mounting plate, meaning I have to be exquisitely gentle in mounting the lens or the camera cannot read the current aperture. This is a major problem for me at the moment.

 

2) For those of you using the Nauticam zoom ring, be extremely careful when taking off the rubber zoom ring and replacing it with the Nauticam insert. The only thing holding the lens together at that junction is a piece of black tape, and too much jostling will remove the tape and allow the lens to come apart.

 

Hi, I have had the Nauticam zoom gear/lens casing separation problem with my 10-17. It's nothing too drastic - it fits back together OK and works fine - but the black tape probably seals the electronics and optics inside from the ingress of dust. Have you re-taped yours together and if so what tape did you use? I don't want to use something that will leave a sticky residue over time.

 

I haven't had the lens aperture problem with my D7000/10-17.

 

Mark

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Doh! Now I know why the Nauticam zoom gear that I bought didn't fit on the Tokina 10-17mm lens. I didn't realize you had to remove the rubber ring on the lens. No instructions came with the gear (I did discover the instructions just now after searching the Nauticam website). I'm amazed that Backscatter couldn't figure this out! I called them when I couldn't make it fit and they didn't have any answers for me so I sent the gear back and just used another gear for my Tamron lens that fits nicely without removing the rubber ring.

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I'll second Jean's suggestion. I knocked the little diaphragm lever on the back of my 300/2.8 once and it wouldn't engage with the camera. Took a while to figure out why most shots were overexposed. A very delicate application of needle nose pliers and another lens for reference sorted it out quite easily.

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Hi, I have had the Nauticam zoom gear/lens casing separation problem with my 10-17. It's nothing too drastic - it fits back together OK and works fine - but the black tape probably seals the electronics and optics inside from the ingress of dust. Have you re-taped yours together and if so what tape did you use? I don't want to use something that will leave a sticky residue over time.

 

I haven't had the lens aperture problem with my D7000/10-17.

 

Mark

Gaffer's or Photographic tape - no residue.

Tape

 

Bob

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Gaffer's or Photographic tape - no residue.

Tape

 

Bob

Thanks Bob. I expect that would do the trick but its thicker than the original tape which is very thin - polyester I expect. Also, I can't find a source of Gaffer tapes in the UK that promises no ooze/residue. Lots of sticky duct tapes available but I think they might leave a gooey mess. I might get some audio or film splicing tape and see if that is suitable.

 

Mark

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i'm replace it with scotch tape and it work great......no problem at all

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My 10-17mm just fell apart on me this past weekend -- I'm sure I had my zoom gear on too tight. Really surprised it's held together with that slim piece of tape, I guess I'll try and fix it myself. Has anyone tried getting one repaired by Tokina?

 

thanks,

John

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My 10-17mm just fell apart on me this past weekend -- I'm sure I had my zoom gear on too tight. Really surprised it's held together with that slim piece of tape, I guess I'll try and fix it myself. Has anyone tried getting one repaired by Tokina?

 

thanks,

John

Hi John,

Well I did apparently successfully repair mine last weekend. The original tape had left behind a bit of sticky so I polished that off. I made sure to assemble the casing so that the zoom setting dial registered properly. Then I applied a series of ~20mm lengths of 12mm width splicing tape starting with 4 pieces at 90 degrees to hold everything tightly together and then overlapping fill-in segments to ensure a good seal. Time will tell of course but it all seems ship-shape now and both rubber grip ring and Nauticam zoom gear fit OK. It would seem a shame to pay someone a lot of money and loose use of the lens for a period when self-repair seems so simple,

 

Mark

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a friend in the business (ski photog) tells me there may be a new version of the tok 10-17 on the way. Anyone else heard any rumours?

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a friend in the business (ski photog) tells me there may be a new version of the tok 10-17 on the way. Anyone else heard any rumours?

 

Ya. Me too, i heard tokina stop the production ready ;-)

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Are there any brand names of this gaffer that you can recommend? Here in the UK the term 'gaffer' seems to be interchangeable with 'duct' when looking for tape.

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;) Using the term Gaffer could case endless miscommunication in the UK. I can just about imagine a "Little Britain" skit for this scenario.

 

Perhaps involving

?

 

On a more serious note though, hoping my 10-17 holds together. One thing going in my favour is that I rarely select it with the prevailing

local conditions as they are.

 

Cheers,

Jim.

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Has anyone tried getting one repaired by Tokina?

I had the same issue with my 10-17 using an FIT zoom gear that matches using the 1.4x. I sent the lens back to tokina for a fix, $80 and 2 weeks.

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I had the same issue with my 10-17 using an FIT zoom gear that matches using the 1.4x. I sent the lens back to tokina for a fix, $80 and 2 weeks.

 

Same thing, I sent mine to Tokina; expecting it back any day now. Hope it doesn't happen again, I really think this is a poorly engineered lens, but it's the best one for U/W for the price.

 

John

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When is the new Tokina due out? Anyone know?

Steve

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When is the new Tokina due out? Anyone know?

Steve

 

B&H is showing them in stock. Best I can tell they have taken off the front lens shade and added a water repellent coating to the glass. Enje reported this new option here.

I'm guessing this is the new version you're asking about.

 

Cheers,

Steve

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