wierdeau 0 Posted January 11, 2004 This is one of my first shots with the Canon 300D and a UK Germany housing. Made in El gouna during my recent trip. Diving at Abu Nuhas at the Chrisoula K. Open for comments! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
james 0 Posted January 11, 2004 Wow, that's great! Some suggestions - it looks like you over "lightened" the shots a bit. To me they could be a half to a full stop darker. ALso, shrink the size and don't compress the JPEG's so much - as there are a lot of artifacts from the process. So, can you post some photos of your setup for us curious Wetpixel folks? It would be great if you could email some for the Wetpixel homepage. Click the email button under here to email me. Thanks! James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Giles 1 Posted January 11, 2004 i do hope all that artifical looking black thats pixelated is from after processing .. iv seen better 1mb PC images with smaller pixelations anyoen else notice that ... please say it is just jpeg processing afterwards Giles (btw i like upwards shots of divers exiting the water) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wetpixel 0 Posted January 12, 2004 All the blotchiness comes from jpg artifacts. The 300D should produce images that look pretty much like 10D images. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Giles 1 Posted January 12, 2004 ok this artifacts thing ... i obviously dont fully understand it .. all to do with compression interpolation right ? well why does it only happen in the underexposed bits ? and not te over exposed bits ? i know how the sensors work on a ccd . do they not work the same on a cmos type sensor or whatever canon call theirs ? i was just wondering why it is only on the lower half of the images (obviously on UW photos the darker area of the image) i mean i get it .. just wondering if someone can get layman terms technical on this for me. I was guessing there is lack of information there from an underexposed part of the image and so it interpolated it badly into big blocks I mean even though this image is over sized for it file size, surely that means theres stilll problems with that area of the image on the original full size photo ? is it all to do with the underexposing ? just some simple words here, so i know what not to do with my photos to never get that. Giles Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wetpixel 0 Posted January 12, 2004 It has nothing to do with exposure, or with the quality of the original image (unless it, too, was severly compressed). Here are two examples: 1) saved at 80% jpeg with photoshop: 2) saved at something like 10% jpg: It's just what happens when you severly compress a jpg. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Giles 1 Posted January 12, 2004 but yours has done it in dark and light areas .. his only did it in dark areas thats what is confusing me Giles Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Simon K. 0 Posted January 12, 2004 Wierdeau: Which Base did you dived with in El Gouna? Simon Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tshepherd 0 Posted January 12, 2004 his only did it in dark areas thats what is confusing me Actually. it's not just in the dark areas, it's all over, at least on my screen. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Giles 1 Posted January 13, 2004 on the original image its just on the bottom on mine .. hmm maybe my amazing faster and better than a mac PC is compensating Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wetpixel 0 Posted January 13, 2004 Giles - look on the upper-right of the original image. It displays the same blockiness that the lower part does. It has to do with the rate of change in the gradient. LET IT GO! The image suffers from jpg compression artifacts that aren't related to the source image quality. End of story. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wierdeau 0 Posted January 13, 2004 Yes Guys, It is just my clumsiness at the 60K limit of wetpixel. I will try to correct this later on in the weekend. Sorry to be so confusing but hey that is what newbies are for! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wierdeau 0 Posted January 13, 2004 once again but this time with the help of James. Hope this one looks better Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wierdeau 0 Posted January 13, 2004 and this is a crop from the original file. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lawrence1131 0 Posted January 21, 2004 Wierdau If you are a newbie I look forward to using my Canon UW What flash have you got ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tiburonsita 0 Posted January 21, 2004 Sweeeet. Love this shot. Can't wait to get MY Digital Rebel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wierdeau 0 Posted January 21, 2004 As a flash i have a Sea And Sea YS 90 auto. Wich works as TTl with the UK Germany housing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan 48 Posted January 21, 2004 Wich works as TTl with the UK Germany housing. What? If this is correct, it means that UKG has also decoded Canon TTL, and included this with the housing? This would surprise me... Or are you using the Auto features of the strobe, which aren't TTL, but Auto Flash? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wetpixel 0 Posted January 22, 2004 As a flash i have a Sea And Sea YS 90 auto. Wich works as TTl with the UK Germany housing. The YS 90 AUTO does not do TTL. You set the f-stop on the strobe, and it quenches when it sees enough light (and the sensor is on the strobe itself). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan 48 Posted January 22, 2004 The YS 90 AUTO does not do TTL Actually, it does,... The strobe features Auto 1 (single flash slave, hard wired trigger AUTO), Auto 2 (Auto for preflash cameras), and conventional TTL with compatible systems. ...but not with the Digital Rebel (except Aquatica A300ttl) Ryan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wetpixel 0 Posted January 22, 2004 The YS 90 AUTO does not do TTL Actually, it does,... The strobe features Auto 1 (single flash slave, hard wired trigger AUTO), Auto 2 (Auto for preflash cameras), and conventional TTL with compatible systems. ...but not with the Digital Rebel (except Aquatica A300ttl) Ryan Oh! I'm sorry. I meant with Canon cameras. I'm Canon-centric, you know. Sorry about that... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites