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Inon Z220 vs Ike DS125

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James;

 

I think something along the lines of what Jeff did (which was wonderful!). Actual, real-world comparisons with a couple of cameras. I'd like to know how the D2000 stacks up against an Ike 50 and then again against a Z220 in terms of real-world power and angle of coverage UW

 

In particular, I have a Fuji F810 and am looking around at strobes. I want something that I can buy once and grow into a DSLR system as I upgrade. I'm thinking that the Z220 may be a better bet than the D2000 for the same price as I can't use the sTTL features and it has hardwire sync. But maybe an Ike 50 is a better idea. I am interested in a compact system (after lugging 2x S&S120's around) and the DS125s are a bit big, besides being more expensive.

 

Hey, you wanted to get an F810 anyway didn't you? If not please send me some strobes so I can check it out and write a report...:D

 

Jack

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James:

 

You have the D2000 and the Z220 and the Ike DS125' ?

I whant to know witch of them have the best for wide angle photo?

I use a Olympus 5050 with a pt5 housing & a INON UWL100 lens

 

Normaly i take fotos witout a stobe. But i need one for

 

I know that the Ike 125 is very powerfull but the Inon 2000 have Auto Exposure and 13 manual settings...

 

1 Use the strobe in Open Water between 0-20 meters (Normaly I shoot i 5-10 meters deep). Most i take wide angle pictures

 

2. Some close ups form freedivers

 

3. Take Photos from Freediving Indoor competitions. Fresh & salt water Pools are max 3-5 meter deep. Mostly I am 0.5-3 meters from freediver away.

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Hi Lambis,

 

It sounds like for your needs, any of those three strobes will work well.

 

Cheers

James

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James ... for the money .... whoch one of them would you buy again ...

 

are the Inons as good as people make out they are .. or is it just a case of they ar eamazing for the size of them but not that amazing compared to larger strobes.

 

I have my one YS 120 which I bought for $500 and is now being sold at $800 ! I have no idea what is going on there!

 

Anyway .. I have been ' thinking' I would like 2 strobes, and have been 'considering' the Inons but know nothing about them apart from people used to say they gave a blue colour to photos, and that they are lovely and small.

 

My questions are ... how long do batteries last? Are they nice and light? Do you ever want 'more' power'? would you buy them again?

 

and on top of that .. if you could have your choice would you use them over all the others you have ? (I think you used them in Cayman .. but don't remember and you may not have had others then .. are they just a good travel strobe for you?)

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Hi Giles,

 

Yes, I was using the Z220's for the dives we did at Turtle Farm Reef with Alex and Sarah. The one where you found out about my "underwater talking" propensity...

 

The strobes were great for those macro shots. I used one w/ a cord and one as a slave and they were very reliable. The slave fired when I wanted it to and didn't fire when I didn't want it to.

 

I also have 2 DS125's which I have put together with the Ikelite 20D housing. They are larger, and use NiCad packs instead of 4 AA's. I don't have any quantitative tests, but I think they are more powerful, and I'm pretty sure (but again, haven't tested) that they throw a wider beam because of their circular "pigtail" flashtube. You are correct that the Ikes have a lower color temperature, which some find better for UW shooting.

 

There is no "better" strobe that is small, light, and will cover a 100mm down to a 10.5mm fisheye lens. My personal set is Ike SS200's for wide and Inon 220's for macro. I was playing around w/ my 200's last weekend and I was able to light a whole 15mm fisheye scene using the Ike 200's - impressive!

 

If you were very discriminating in your strobe aiming you MIGHT be able to get away w/ using DS125's for everything.

 

Cheers

James

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I don't see myself buying Ikelites, I LOVE my Sea&Sea YS120, but I am thinking the 15mm fisheye 'might' ust need a little extra than I have needed in the past with approx 21mm WA. So I was thinking about selling the YS 120 as it's almost double what I paid for it in the shops and buying something else. I have always lusted after Alex's Subtronics .. but I think they are alittle pricey for me right now .. maybe next year.

 

I may just pick up a second hand cheapey to keep me going until then and slave it from the 120. Many people don't like the 120 as it only has 1/2 and full setting, I like that .. less to think about, and to be honest it's about as big a strobe as I would ever want, I don't think I could deal wth 2 YS 350,s or Ike 200's (they are big right ?)

 

I don't suppose you have ever tried the 15mm fisheye with the 220's have you ? And how long do the 4 AA's last for ? That is the only thing I dislike about my 120 is it takes 8 AA's .. but has awesome recycle for a AA powered strobe.

 

It's nice to find out information like this .. even though I will probably just end up buying whatever comes along first ! :D

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Well, if you're just going to buy whatever comes along, then there's no reason for me to waste my time trying to help you, right?

 

Have a nice day.

 

james

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Hey c'mon James :D

 

Don't let "numericallydamp" make you feel redundant! :( There are lots of us swimming around in here who would be delighted to learn more of your experiences with the flotilla strobes in your arsenal.

 

At the risk of confusing your conclusions, I'll try to paraphrase my understanding of your thoughts. Ideally you would use a pair of monster strobes (ike200s) for WA and a pair of nice small strobes for macro (z220). If you are feeling frugal, you might be able to get away with a couple of Ike DS125's for most things (macro and WA) if you are very judicious in the way you use them.

 

It sounds like the DS125s are noticably less powerful than your meaty Ike200s (as expected), but your feeling is that the DS125s are more powerful than the z220's (which is funny given the indicated Guide Numbers of the z220s).

 

It would be absolutely sensational if you had a chance to confirm your suspicions on this front (and perhaps the angle of coverage aspect) with a rigorous test.

 

Thanks again for your insights...

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Well, if you're just going to buy whatever comes along, then there's no reason for me to waste my time trying to help you, right?

 

Have a nice day.

 

james

what crawled in your wetsuit :D I was kinda more meaning When I have money to buy a strobe I'll probably buy what I can afford .. and who knows what that is ?

 

But I was kindahoping to hear that after having used a pair of Inon's you would recomend them and that maybe they weren't a complete loss on a 15mm fisheye (i have a 1.6 crop so chances are better)

 

Now chances are that as I won't have internet I won't get to see you're response, soeven though I fnid your information and knowledge and experiences invaluable, I may never get to see them now :(

 

maybe it will draw reference for someone else lucky enough to get to read it until I manage to connect to the world wide web again. over and out.

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I do not know much about the Inon's but do know abit about the D125 and Ike's 200's. My 200's are very powerful but quite heavy and large. Not as big and heavy as the old 150's which may be before your time.The D125 for me are small & lite and recycle super quik. As far a service Ike's fast and easy- for usa folks-I know that can not be said about any offshore models.Unless you happen to be near where they are made. If your abroad then Ike's service is a slow pain as well. Mark

 

100 post's and with film

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Hmmn...

 

I've described my rig before: I moved from twin YS120s and nikonos to a Nikon Coolpix 5000 and used two Z220s for wide-angle at 100ASA with excellent results on wrecks and sharks, and most things smaller. I then moved on to a D70 in a Nexus, and these two Z220s worked fine with the 10.5mm (180 degrees) on long TLC arms, and the 200ASA chip meant that I stopped down or powered down on most shots. The size of the Z22s is fantastic, and I thought they were robust (ubtil my older one glitched a few months ago: it seems to be locked in "quench", even when in manual mode...). A handful of 2300mA AAs lasts 2-300 frames, and they are so much easier than a big power pack, and some of the new chargers are really small....

 

Examples are the featherstar on the bottles and the bluewater Mako on PoW last year (both from the smaller camera).

 

I begin to think, with Martin Edge, that the arms are crucial: the angle and spacing of the strobes can make more difference than the actual strobes. The small moment arm of the Z220s, or the replacement 2000s, makes them much easier to handle than the DS125s or YS120s etc on 1m+ arms.

 

B)

 

Tim

D70, Nexus, Z220s, mostly fisheye...

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Excellent information here, I'm trying to decide between the two models as well at the moment as my YS90 doesn't have the range of power I would like.

 

One thing that doens't seem to have been covered - am I right in thinking both the Ike and the Inon have spotter lights as standard? If so, is one better than the other for that?

 

Many thanks in advance :)

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The Ike spotting light is larger and more powerful than the Inon in my opinion. Plus, it can be difficult to get the Inon spotting light to work.

 

James

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Plus, it can be difficult to get the Inon spotting light to work.

 

James

 

What does that mean? Is there something wrong with the design? One of the things I do like about the DS-125 is that I can use it both as my night dive light and strobe. Not sure I'd want to do that with the Z-240 . . .

 

Mike

Edited by MikeO

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The Ike spotting light is larger and more powerful than the Inon in my opinion. Plus, it can be difficult to get the Inon spotting light to work.

 

James

 

Don't know which one is larger or more powerful, but the Inons spotting light (at least the 240) is very easy to operate - just push a button on the back of the strobe and the spotting light will go on for 8-10 seconds. If you want it permanent, just push the button in and lock it by turning the button half a turn. Can't imagine it to be easier.

 

/christian

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The Z220 does not have a press-in button to activate the spotting light.

 

I used to have a pair of 220's and loved them. But I had a 1-pin non-TTL connection in my housing and could not get the lights to come on, no matter what I did. Herb found a fix, but it requires soldering - which I sort of never got around to.

 

Cheers

James

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Great, many thanks all for your help!

 

I now just need to find a UK retailer who carries both so I can compare in the flesh so to speak!

 

:)

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Power, it's all about power...

 

No, it's not!

 

I first noticed that the artistic quality of my shots improved when I had to resort to a Sea & Sea YS20Duo with my Nikonos, when a big gun failed.

 

Using Inons and iso100 makes you get close, and improves the even-ness of the illumination with wide-angle lenses. It makes you use the ambient light creatively, and, particularly, the shadows. The only time that I've regretted going with a twin Inon set-up is when shooting big pelagics, and even then it can work:

 

post-4522-1188399227_thumb.jpg

 

Looking downwards at 52m...

 

Tim

 

B)

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Don't want to start another debate over the issue of guide numbers but if you compare strobes on the attached link you will find that both the Inon Z-220 and Z-240 have the same beam angle and more power (I.E. higher guide number) than the DS-125.

 

http://www.digitaldiver.net/strobes.php

 

Phil Rudin

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I also, do not want the engage in a my * is better than your * debate. But, fair is fair. I am a mere consumer; I neither work for Inon nor distribute their products. I have many friends using the DS-125 who are very pleased with its performance.

 

My Z-240’s tested f22+ @ ISO100. I did not measure the zone of maximum illumination, but on my slightly darker than 18% grey fire place the lighting appeared even (with -1/3 diffusers). In close up and macro shots, I get 300+ flashes (2400 mAmp NiHM) with plenty of reserve. I have not use them for w/a yet and this the first year of operation.

 

The diving forces in my choice of u/w gear were size, weight, and compatibility. The Z-240 is obviously smaller and lighter than the DS-125. With the exception of my camera batteries, all my gear uses AA NiMH batteries.

Edited by Deep6

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Too right.

 

I only wish that my cameras would run off AAs as well (the D200 does, but only on the surface: and the battery pack is plastic - what a cheek! I'll have to buy a D300 just for the alloy battery pack...). My strobes, torches etc all run off AAs, with wonderful flexibility.

 

I do use my Inons for wide angle, and I am happy enough to upgrade to Z240s in the near future, for the fibre-optic capacity. I get about 200 flashes before the recycle lag starts to be annoying with 2400mAhr AAs.

 

Tim

 

B)

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Sorry, I meant to add this:

 

I have always found the strobe modelling light to work poorly as a focus light: it comes from the wrong direction unless the strobe is back-scatter close to the lens axis. I find the gentle light from the Inon strobe very useful for modelling, especially with the red filter attached. I use a high-intensity focus light for macro lenses, mounted above the port.

 

I'm not sure why the strobe light needs to be bright; for direction the Inons have a little red laser that easily penetrates out to 2-3m away.

 

Tim

 

B)

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I have put the Z240 modeling light with the red filter to good use photographing Mandarinfish on Kapali. The red light was much less disruptive to the fish than my other lights. It could be the reduced intensity due to the filter, or it could be the color. Whatever the case, it worked well.

 

Here is an example (click for a bigger image).

440445758_52a471af88_m.jpg

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Don't want to start another debate over the issue of guide numbers but if you compare strobes on the attached link you will find that both the Inon Z-220 and Z-240 have the same beam angle and more power (I.E. higher guide number) than the DS-125.

 

http://www.digitaldiver.net/strobes.php

 

Phil Rudin

 

Sorry Phil that website is wrong... The guide number of the DS 125 is 32 underwater and 64 air. That is almost three stops brighter than the z240 with a guide # of 12 underwater and 24 air. You can test this by using your flashmeter and setting both strobes to full power then take a reading at exactly the same distance from each strobe.

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