First dive with the Canon HF-G10

[textilet 7]

The housing for our new Canon HF-G10 finally arrived on thursday night, so my brother and I took it for a spin on friday morning at Veteran's Park in Redondo Beach. Here is the video. All in all we were very impressed with both the camera and the Light & Motion Bluefin housing. We didn't have a way to attach our light arms on such short notice so we just zip-tied a couple Nocturnal slx 800's to the bottom of the handles...it wasn't a great solution but it got the job done for one dive. Very excited to make some more video with this rig.

[uwxplorer 4]

All in all we were very impressed with both the camera and the Light & Motion Bluefin housing.

 

Nice. This is using the flat port and flippable macro-lens? What format did you shoot?

*I* wouldn't bring my rig at Vets Park: too long a walk back up the stairs and too risky crashing with the housing in the surf and sand...

But the life encountered there can be quite diverse at times, as your video proves!

Music credit anyone?

[textilet 7]

Actually that was all through the wet mate 65 degree wide angle lens. We took it off once (that clip didnt make the cut) but it was stressful trying to hold on to that lens without scratching it so we just left it on the whole time and put the camera really close to the subjects. We shot in 1080 24p, with exposure set to shutter priority 1/60, Manual white balance. Shots were from about 70 ft depth. Conditions at vets were EXCEPTIONAL that day, 6 inch surf, 30 ft viz and almost zero surge. Backscatter tells me that the hf-g10 version of the bluefin doesnt include the internal flip up diopter because the space between the lens of the camera and the inside surface of the housing port is too tight to allow the diopter to fit in between. Music was "burden" by Opeth.

Edited August 14, 2011 by textilet

[sufur 0]

what were you doing your manual white balance against? a white slate? i have the same setup basically but its my first cam so i have a lot to learn.

[textilet 7]

My brother and I took turns shooting, and the non-shooter would open their wetnotes (bright white pages) at what ever distance the subject was from the camera with two blank pages showing. The shooter could then zoom in on the white square, white balance, then shoot the subject. We are going to epoxy paint our tanks white so we can white balance off each other's backs just by having the non shooter swim in the vicinity of the subject.

[sufur 0]

was your setup particularly nose heavy? mine kept trying to flip forward on me and made it a bit difficult to control

[wydeangle 33]

was your setup particularly nose heavy? mine kept trying to flip forward on me and made it a bit difficult to control

 

 

Very interesting....

 

Mine's very nose heavy too. I even have the float but it's not enough.

 

Tom

[textilet 7]

Mine is quite nose heavy with the wide angle and lights. I can still control it, but it needs to be dealt with. Is the float a significant step in the right direction? I am thinking of making my own.

[sufur 0]

Very interesting....

 

Mine's very nose heavy too. I even have the float but it's not enough.

 

Tom

 

Thats not good. I started out adding floats the ulcs arms i have on the housing. i tried four blocks which on the package said was equivalent to 1.6lbs of positive. it slowed the flip just a bit but didnt stop it. I bought the housing float later that day but never dove it again so i didnt get a chance to try it out.

 

I was only testing with the standard flat port. I have the fathom 90 on the way so im pretty sure it will get a lot worse with that attached to front.

Edited August 19, 2011 by sufur

[wydeangle 33]

Thats not good. I started out adding floats the ulcs arms i have on the housing. i tried four blocks which on the package said was equivalent to 1.6lbs of positive. it slowed the flip just a bit but didnt stop it. I bought the housing float later that day but never dove it again so i didnt get a chance to try it out.

 

I was only testing with the standard flat port. I have the fathom 90 on the way so im pretty sure it will get a lot worse with that attached to front.

 

I'm using the Fathom 90 port. Without the float it's a real nuisance. With the float it's almost tolerable. I think it would help to put the flotation material right on the Sola 1200 lights, or at least as far forward on the port as possible.

 

Where can one buy the flotation material?

 

Tom

[textilet 7]

http://www.marinefoam.com/styrofoam.html?g...w&lcode=AB6. Im thinking of carving a float out of that. Edited August 19, 2011 by textilet

[sufur 0]

I'm using the Fathom 90 port. Without the float it's a real nuisance. With the float it's almost tolerable. I think it would help to put the flotation material right on the Sola 1200 lights, or at least as far forward on the port as possible.

 

Where can one buy the flotation material?

 

Tom

 

which float do you have the light and motion one or the one made by Stix? Im starting to wondering if the one from stix is more bouyant. It seems bigger in its photos.

[wydeangle 33]

which float do you have the light and motion one or the one made by Stix? Im starting to wondering if the one from stix is more bouyant. It seems bigger in its photos.

 

I have the L&M float. I was blissfully unaware there were any others available. I'll go looking for Stix!

 

I don't want any more buoyancy, or at least not much more. I like to put the camera down on the sand where possible for steadiness. I'm looking at getting the Gates tripod, so maybe if I can mount it a bit toward the rear, it'll cure the nose-heaviness. I have the L&M tripod adapter which can be easily slid forward and backward.

 

Possibly a float like the old Amphibico 108* lens had would be more effective. It was mounted directly on the lens, not the housing, which put its effect all the way up front. That's why I'd like to get some material to see if I can fabricate a collar for the lens.

 

Tom

 

EDIT: Just ordered the Stix belt with up to 12 segments of flotation, meant to go around the lens, so it'll be in the right place. I'll report after I dive it, which likely won't be until next month. I may try to rig it in the tub before I go so it'll be in the ballpark.

Edited August 19, 2011 by wydeangle

[kkfok 24]

Thanks. I think its low light capabilities is really impressive after watching your new video. Is that possible to have some tests on its manual white balance with and without filter under depth?

Many thanks.

[textilet 7]

We're going out again Friday; we may do more tests then

[Bintang2009 0]

Actually that was all through the wet mate 65 degree wide angle lens. We took it off once (that clip didnt make the cut) but it was stressful trying to hold on to that lens without scratching it so we just left it on the whole time and put the camera really close to the subjects. We shot in 1080 24p, with exposure set to shutter priority 1/60, Manual white balance. Shots were from about 70 ft depth. Conditions at vets were EXCEPTIONAL that day, 6 inch surf, 30 ft viz and almost zero surge. Backscatter tells me that the hf-g10 version of the bluefin doesnt include the internal flip up diopter because the space between the lens of the camera and the inside surface of the housing port is too tight to allow the diopter to fit in between. Music was "burden" by Opeth.

 

Hi Everybody !

 

Just new to Wetpixel, and my apologizes if my english is not very correct.

I am going to buy a L&M bluefin pro with Canon HFG10 and the WM 65 plus it's dock on top of the housing. I am doing mostly macro. My actual Sealux UNM 190 and Sony HDR HC9 plus internal housing macro lens are getting old and I am going to update and change the all system.

 

Please, will you confirm that L&M Bluefin pro and a Canon HF G10 is not working with the L&M internal flip macro dioptre. Is the macro diopre really bigger than the color filter ? Did you invest the possibility to use a UW removable macro lense ? Is it finaly useless to have a macro lense with, as the video you made was with the Wet Mate 65 and looks good. How close to the subject did you get to make it ?

 

PS: a real nice video, and very good image quality! Congratulations !

[uwxplorer 4]

Hi Everybody !

 

Just new to Wetpixel, and my apologizes if my english is not very correct.

I am going to buy a L&M bluefin pro with Canon HFG10 and the WM 65 plus it's dock on top of the housing. I am doing mostly macro. My actual Sealux UNM 190 and Sony HDR HC9 plus internal housing macro lens are getting old and I am going to update and change the all system.

 

Please, will you confirm that L&M Bluefin pro and a Canon HF G10 is not working with the L&M internal flip macro dioptre. Is the macro diopre really bigger than the color filter ? Did you invest the possibility to use a UW removable macro lense ? Is it finaly useless to have a macro lense with, as the video you made was with the Wet Mate 65 and looks good. How close to the subject did you get to make it ?

 

PS: a real nice video, and very good image quality! Congratulations !

 

This is an excerpt from an email answer by Paul Barnett from L&M (August 17) regarding the flip macro diopter:

 

"Correct, the flip macro diopter system does not work with the Canon camcorders."

 

So, there you have it. The macro diopter makes a HUGE difference (I am

with my Sony CX550V and have obtained amazing -to me- footage of invertebrates with it). The flat port allows full zoom through (as does the Fathom WA90 lens) but the magnification is still 10x at most. I think the diopter add a x2 capability, but most importantly, it allows you to get VERY close to your subject (which for instance allows you to fill your field of view with your subject). There might be options for a wet macro lens (check this for instance).

If you have not made your purchase yet, you may also want to wait a bit. WP had this link recently, indicating that it may be possible to use the new Sony camcorders in UW housings. And the macro diopter, I assume. But check with L&M.

[wydeangle 33]

This is an excerpt from an email answer by Paul Barnett from L&M (August 17) regarding the flip macro diopter:

 

"Correct, the flip macro diopter system does not work with the Canon camcorders."

 

SNIP

 

 

Is there problem with allowing some space inside the FLAT port to accommodate the diopter(s)?

 

Could the flat port lens be moved forward 1/4" or so?

 

Or is this oversimplifying the solution?

 

Tom

 

EDIT: Just did a quick experiment. Tried removing the flat port and putting on a +7 Century Achromat which is 3/4" tall, then replacing the flat port. It was about 5/16" too tall. The flat port would not reinstall.

 

The +4 Achromat is about 13/16" tall so not even close.

 

As a result, I'd suggest moving the flat port lens forward by a good 1/2", maybe a touch more. Are you listening, Paul?

 

Anyone know of a comparable optical quality diopter that is significantly thinner?

 

This would require the diopter to be in place the whole dive, but hey, the still photo guys do it all the time!

 

SECOND EDIT (last one for this message, I promise): The +2 is even thicker than the +4 which most of you probably already knew, therefore 1/2" isn't enough. Probably 3/4" extension of the flat port is needed.

Edited December 18, 2011 by wydeangle

[Bintang2009 0]

This is an excerpt from an email answer by Paul Barnett from L&M (August 17) regarding the flip macro diopter:

 

"Correct, the flip macro diopter system does not work with the Canon camcorders."

 

So, there you have it. The macro diopter makes a HUGE difference (I am

with my Sony CX550V and have obtained amazing -to me- footage of invertebrates with it). The flat port allows full zoom through (as does the Fathom WA90 lens) but the magnification is still 10x at most. I think the diopter add a x2 capability, but most importantly, it allows you to get VERY close to your subject (which for instance allows you to fill your field of view with your subject). There might be options for a wet macro lens (check this for instance).

If you have not made your purchase yet, you may also want to wait a bit. WP had this link recently, indicating that it may be possible to use the new Sony camcorders in UW housings. And the macro diopter, I assume. But check with L&M.

 

Many thanks for your advices.

 

After using those Sony cam "TRV33E, HDR-HC9, XR550", i am a bit desapointed as they failled after one or two years of (may be too intense) use. Their WB in UW conditions is a too tricky opération to get goods results (they look pinky). I am going to Canon, following advices from other divers.

I'll check also for external wet macro lens and i have already found this : http://reefnet.ca/products/subsee/ . Anyway, thanks for the links. I will discuss of this with my retailler and also visit manufacturers during the French "Salon de la plongée" (Dive Show) in Paris from 13 to 16 of january. If something interresting on macro lenses, i'll post it.

Edited December 19, 2011 by Bintang2009

[wydeangle 33]

Here's an excerpt from an e-mail from Paul at L&M:

 

There is no other flat port available for the Bluefin.

 

I use the Subsee macro lenses and highly recommend them.

 

So guess what I want for my birthday? LOL

 

Tom

[textilet 7]

@bintang2009 - the first close-up shot (a pleurobranchaea californica ) was from about 3 -4 inches away. Keep in mind that is not exactly a small subject at around 12 inches long. The baby octopus was about 1 foot away. The sea hare shot has a strange distortion to it visible off center to the left of the frame. I think this has something to do with the subject being closer to the camera on the left side and passing out of the shallower depth of field that seems to appear when shooting close up at 1/60 shutter. The in focus part of the sea hare was also about a foot away. If anyone has successfully mated an external macro diopter to this set up I'd love to see some film of that.

[Bintang2009 0]

@bintang2009 - the first close-up shot (a pleurobranchaea californica ) was from about 3 -4 inches away. Keep in mind that is not exactly a small subject at around 12 inches long. The baby octopus was about 1 foot away. The sea hare shot has a strange distortion to it visible off center to the left of the frame. I think this has something to do with the subject being closer to the camera on the left side and passing out of the shallower depth of field that seems to appear when shooting close up at 1/60 shutter. The in focus part of the sea hare was also about a foot away. If anyone has successfully mated an external macro diopter to this set up I'd love to see some film of that.

 

Many thanks for those informations. I have just ordered a Canon HF G10 and a bluefinpro Oled plus wet mate 65. I expect to receive them by end of January. I have also investigated in macro lenses and my choice is going to http://www.backscatter.com/store/product/js-mmfbf.lasso . During last november I was in Lembeh (indonesia) and i met australian photographer using this, that looks very good, and i intend to use it with the flat port. Let me received the items and i will make a video test. May be for end of february.

Merry christmas and happy new year

Edited December 24, 2011 by Bintang2009

[SWink 43]

I too have a Bluefin Pro with Canon HFG10 but I'm having a lot of trouble trying to get the one-touch white balance to work properly.

Any tips?

[wydeangle 33]

I too have a Bluefin Pro with Canon HFG10 but I'm having a lot of trouble trying to get the one-touch white balance to work properly.

Any tips?

Here's a reply I put into the XA10 thread:

The underwater white balance function on my L&M housed XA10 is in fact a TWO-BUTTON function.

 

First, one of the UP/DOWN keys on the LEFT handle needs to be pressed to assure the FUNC rectangle (AKA box) is HIGHLIGHTED/SELECTED. Usually it is the UP arrow.

 

Then the WHITE BALANCE button on the RIGHT handle can be pressed. Manual white balancing is then completed.

 

If you press the white balance button when the FUNC rectangle is NOT HIGHLIGHTED, you will be treated to a wonderful display of blinking and jumping around from place to place on the screen, resulting in who knows what? The built-in macro has executed some other sequence, likely having nothing to do with white balance.

 

When (if?) this happens you will need to execute the original procedure of HIGHLIGHTING the FUNC rectangle and hope that nothing else has come adrift while you were taken on this random ride. To do this after an inadvertent white balance macro execution, it is sometimes necessary to use the ARROW KEYS and the ENTER button on the left handle to get the FUNC box properly highlighted.

 

Maybe I don't read so good. Maybe this is explained in the instruction given for the housing and I missed/misinterpreted it. I don't recall. I do remember asking Paul if this was really a TWO-BUTTON function, and having him reply in a way that convinced me that the above procedure is correct. HIGHLIGHT FIRST, WHITE BALANCE SECOND. The only time you can WHITE BALANCE first is if the FUNC box is already HIGHLIGHTED.

 

This isn't a complaint! It took several dives for me to figure this out. It would have been convenient to know this sooner.

 

Knowing how to do that now, it's a non-issue. I hope it saves someone some frustration.

 

It should work the same with the HF-G10.

 

Enjoy,

 

Tom

[SWink 43]

Here's a reply I put into the XA10 thread:

 

 

It should work the same with the HF-G10.

 

Enjoy,

 

Tom

 

Thanks Tom but when I do this the macro stops at the set white balance screen and doesn't proceed any further. I then have to press ENTER to set the white balance then ARROW to X and press ENTER to return.

Unfortunately on alternate attempts it does not return to the main screen so you have to repeat the process to get back to the main screen.

It's actually quicker to just do it via the menus and you only need one hand leaving the other free to position the white card.

I'm begining to think that I may have an icorrectly programmed handle.