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DerekB

How fragile are F/o cable

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I've been trying to slave off my Sea&Sea ys-2 through my surf housing. I've used various FO cables, ranging from $75 sea&sea L links to $3 maglight extenders. The sea and sea strobe seems to fire unpredictably at best. Yesterday, I got hit by one wave and the strobe wasn't syncing. After inspection I noticed the FO filament broke near the strobe plug. It makes me wonder how suitable FO cable is.

 

I really like the results and would like to continue in this direction.

MG5282-S.jpg sunset-wave-003-S.jpg

 

 

Is F/o a viable option for these type of images?

 

I heard INON are more sensitive to light. You think I can go wireless?

 

I've noticed my yn-580 speedlight (same body as canon 580) will fire without wires. But finding a housing to fit it is proving almost impossible.

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Do you use tie-wraps to tie the FO cord to the arms? This can reduce the stress on the cord. From my limited experience, Inon FO cords are sturdy, connecting to Inon strobes. I do not shoot in such waves but I would expect the cords to do well if tie-wrapped such that there is no normal stress on the cord beyond some stretching to reach the connection. Just some food for though.

Nice photos!

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Do you use tie-wraps to tie the FO cord to the arms? This can reduce the stress on the cord. From my limited experience, Inon FO cords are sturdy, connecting to Inon strobes. I do not shoot in such waves but I would expect the cords to do well if tie-wrapped such that there is no normal stress on the cord beyond some stretching to reach the connection. Just some food for though.

Nice photos!

 

Thanks!

 

I actually haven't attached strobe arms to the housing yet ( it's gel-coated and I'm not sure what to use to attache the arm ball). So far I have only been hand holding the strobe.

 

This is probably something I should look into. Visualizing it, it would seem to reduce the stress and movement of the cord immensely.

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Hi Derek,

 

I came across this gorgeous surfing image a couple weeks ago on the pocket wizard site. Had to know more and they had an article about it.

i-JJd3rSq-L.png

 

I know the pocket wizard is not exactly what you're asking about, but this article may be a place to start.

(I don't do any surf photography myself but can imagine getting tumbled in those waves with all that gear!)

 

Here's the article:

http://www.pocketwizard.com/inspirations/p...es/pompermayer/

 

Hope that helps!

 

~abi

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Thanks for the link.

 

The article says that sync cords wouldn't work. luckily for me my YN speedlight is super sensitive, and can slave without wires to my on camera flash. But finding or building a housing for it is proving difficult. Most of the local surf housing guys want $700-800 USD for a flash housing. I bought the flash on Amazon for $60, and would like a cheaper option.

 

Until I can figure out a housing for the speedlights I think I am going to stick with my fiber optic cable. It's cheap enough to replace on every shoot if I have too.

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Thanks for the link.

 

The article says that sync cords wouldn't work. luckily for me my YN speedlight is super sensitive, and can slave without wires to my on camera flash. But finding or building a housing for it is proving difficult. Most of the local surf housing guys want $700-800 USD for a flash housing. I bought the flash on Amazon for $60, and would like a cheaper option.

 

Until I can figure out a housing for the speedlights I think I am going to stick with my fiber optic cable. It's cheap enough to replace on every shoot if I have too.

If you're not talking scuba depths, under pressure, and don't need any control points, why not just a 'bag' type housing for the speedlight??

 

There's all sorts of them in various sizes for ipods, phones, etc. Here's a link but it's just a search result, I've not vetted it at all....

 

http://www.shopping.com/ipod-underwater-ho...g/products?sb=1

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Rtrski:

 

Interesting, Havn't thought about that. One thing that worries me is that while I don't have depth to worry about, I do have the pounding surf. The latches on some of those bags make me wonder.

 

I wonder if a vacuum sealer would work. Suppose to be a stong PVC type plastic?

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I certainly can't vouch for their use, but the bag type housings I've seen use a huge industrial 'chip clip' type of closure. I'd think it would be pretty solidly pinched shut.

 

A vac sealer might work from a sealing standpoint, but I wouldn't want to pull a vacuum on electronics, especially flash tubes. I don't know that there's any real sealed volumes to be worried about (or that a food type vac puller can really pull that 'hard' a vacuum :laugh: ) but it just sounds dicey to me.

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A vacuum sealer would make the controls impossible to operate. Just like taking a soft housing too deep.

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A vacuum sealer would make the controls impossible to operate. Just like taking a soft housing too deep.

 

ARRGH! Your probably right! I should have been smart enough to figure that out BEFORE I spent the $120 on the vac sealer!

 

I think with some foam padding, and some JB weld, I can convert a larger otter box into a housing.

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ARRGH! Your probably right! I should have been smart enough to figure that out BEFORE I spent the $120 on the vac sealer!

 

I think with some foam padding, and some JB weld, I can convert a larger otter box into a housing.

 

Quick (but messy) trick for custom foam padding: buy a can of "Great Stuff" (sold at Home Depot, etc. as a wall sealer for around windows, tubs, etc) and blow it into a trash bag. Mash into rough shape (e.g. carefully push it into the case) and then indent desired object to be nestled into it before it hardens.

 

Do NOT let it leak on anything you care about before it dries. That stuff is a devil to scrub off of anything, including skin. Sticks like the worst chewing gum mess you can imagine. (But the veggy oil or peanut butter trick actually works with chewing gum)

Edited by rtrski

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Since I had purchased the vacuum sealer, I decided to try it out. I was actually able to shut of the vacuume right before the buttons would compress. Sealed up the bag looked like it would hold and do the trick.

 

In the water was a different story!

 

Strobe test "week 9": Ended in TWO flooded Yn-speedlights. Good thing they are only 60 bucks. I learned the hard way that the foodsaver vacuume sealed bags are not a good waterproof option, only weather proof.

 

I'm not really sure what caused the leak in the vacuum sealed bag. I'm thinking either high speed debris from the reef or stress on the sealed area of the bag. It didn't leak yesterday, but I wasn't as deep in the waves, and the bag was reinforced with gorilla tape.

 

I'm not really sure what direction I should go:

Housing the speedlights, They seem to be more reliable slaving on the flash.

 

Dive strobe, Been having a very hard time slaving the strobes reliably. I think they fire about 45% of the time. Usually when I'm not in the water.

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