Making jumpto DSLR

[Scotttyd 0]

I have been using a nikon p5100 point and shoot (with full manual controls) for several years and have decided to make the jump to DSLR. My question is, where do I get started?

 

What characteristics should I look for in choosing a DSLR? A quick look at best buy and prices range all of the place from 500-1300. What are the differences that really matter? Also, a quick tutorial on what a lense number means? ex. 17-85 mm. 55-200 etc. What type of lense would you use for underwater (obviously a macro and/or wide angle lense I assume??)

 

I have used wet lens's currently (two stacked macro or a wide angle). Is there a good "general purpose/flexible lens to start out with, or do you generally have 1 for macro, 1 for "regular", and 1 for wide angle?

 

 

Also, I have a inonz-240 strobe which I assume I can sync with just about any DSLR camera (depending on housing) to use TTYL. I have always used ikelite housings. Not that I am against any of the others, just what I have used for P&S. On their website the hosuing comes without a port it looks like? How do you go about choosing a port, etc? Is it based on what type of lens you are using?

 

Thanks in advance for the "newbie" question!

[Cerianthus 55]

You get what you pay for more or less. Better build quality, newer sensors, better controls. Especially handy to have separate controls for F-stop and shutter speed (two control wheels). Alternatively, you might need to push a button extra.. No trouble on the surface, but less handy underwater. I would take a look at sites such as dpreview.com to look for more info on the camera.

 

Lenses : the mms is the focal length of the lens. higher numbers mean a longer lens (less view), smaller numbers a wide angle. Have a look at one of the lens or camera manufactorer websites, I am sure they have examples and info. Typically, people start off with a 60mm macro (or later a 100mm macro) and a 10-17 FE zoom (Tokina). There are some mid range zoom options available (17-70mm sigma) but i think most use either macro or wide angle.

 

I dont know the Z240, but I dont think you will get ttl from an ikelite housing with that (but you can use it in manual). You choose the port according to the lens you want to use. Ikelite fixed ports and modular ports (most other companies use modular ports).

[Scotttyd 0]

You get what you pay for more or less. Better build quality, newer sensors, better controls. Especially handy to have separate controls for F-stop and shutter speed (two control wheels). Alternatively, you might need to push a button extra.. No trouble on the surface, but less handy underwater. I would take a look at sites such as dpreview.com to look for more info on the camera.

 

Lenses : the mms is the focal length of the lens. higher numbers mean a longer lens (less view), smaller numbers a wide angle. Have a look at one of the lens or camera manufactorer websites, I am sure they have examples and info. Typically, people start off with a 60mm macro (or later a 100mm macro) and a 10-17 FE zoom (Tokina). There are some mid range zoom options available (17-70mm sigma) but i think most use either macro or wide angle.

 

I dont know the Z240, but I dont think you will get ttl from an ikelite housing with that (but you can use it in manual). You choose the port according to the lens you want to use. Ikelite fixed ports and modular ports (most other companies use modular ports).

 

 

yes, the ikelite won't marry with the ttyl from the z240 - other housing will - but I use it on manual now anyway so am knowledgable how to do that.

 

if I am correct a 100mm would requite you to be closer to the object than a 60mm macro? How close would you have to be to an object to effectively use either a 60 or 100mm lens?

 

Also, a modular port vs a fixed port - can you explain the differences?

[Deep6 7]

yes, the ikelite won't marry with the ttyl from the z240 - other housing will - but I use it on manual now anyway so am knowledgable how to do that.

 

if I am correct a 100mm would requite you to be closer to the object than a 60mm macro? How close would you have to be to an object to effectively use either a 60 or 100mm lens?

 

Also, a modular port vs a fixed port - can you explain the differences?

No Scotty, it is the other way around.

Nikor lens:

105 MM VR ~$890 USD 1:1 @ 12" or 30.5 cm

60 mm ~$465 1:1 @ 8.6" OR 22 cm DOES NOT WORK on D40, D60, D3000, D5000, ...

85 mm VR ~$485 1:1 @ 11.26 or 29 cm

 

I have the older 105 & 60 mm. I started the 60 and always use it in AF. I now perfer the 105 for the added working distance makes lighting the subject easier. It is a little tight for a DX (1.5 crop) sensor. Note that the 60 make not work on the D3100 or D5100. The 60 is good for very murky water. If I were to buy a new Nikor macro, I would strongly consider the 85 mm.

 

The 10-17 FE is a great w/a lens. I think the Inon z240s iTTL only via the fiber or slave connection.

 

Regards,

Bob

[johnjvv 11]

Scotty,

 

I started with a 60mm Macro and was really happy with the results. I use a Nikon D90 which is nice but if I had to buy again I would get the D7000 as you can do HD movies and use two memory cards.

 

One of the things I did notice when recently I started using an slr setup was that it is (obviously) heavier to handle underwater and that it felt unbalanced because I only had one strobe which made shooting with one hand difficult. I had to place my strobe above the camera to balance it a little, two strobes would balance out the weight (and light off course). So I got a another strobe and going to gym for stronger arms

 

Another consideration is continuity so you can upgrade later without having to buy everything all over again. Ie, all the Nikon lenses I am buying now will fit on D7000 as well and the ports I am buying for the different lenses will also fit on other Aquatica housings. So if I ever wanted to upgrade it is only a housing and camera body.

 

Enjoy shopping around which is half the fun!!

 

Cheers,

John

[Cerianthus 55]

I think http://ikelite.com/web_pages/slrport.html gives quite a good explanation. The advantage of the modular port system is that you can use one dome (for wide angle) or flat port with several lengths of port bodies or extensions. I use a modular port for wide angle (as that is the bigger dome) and fixed flatports for macro. (partly because i had them). Drawback is that if you scratch one, you cratched a port for more of your lenses....

 

If you would like the 60mm or 100mm the best, depends a bit on your circumstances. I am assuming you will do a DX sensor size dslr (A canon rebel, 60d, or 7d; or a Nikon D90 ). The 60mm focus closer (very close). To get towards 1:1, you have to be really close. Good for small stuff in not so clear water, or fish size stuff in clearer water. The 100mm macro (or 105 for nikon users) is the macro lens for clearer water. If you start using it for medium sized subjects (such as a crab) in temperate water, the working distance gets too big, there is too much water between the subject and the lens. Aiming it is a bit more difficult then the 60mm.

 

If you are comfortable with manual strobe use, just buy an extra Z240 when funds allow. Even tough I am using ikelite DS51's, I am tempted to switch to those too because they seem to be more reliable, give larger wide angle coverage and are considerably lighter in travel then Ikelites DS161s (which probably give nicer wide angle coverage).

 

PS: i dont have the 10-17mm because i already bought the 15mm fishey lens. If I started now, I would follow my recommendation.

[Scotttyd 0]

thanks for the help - starting to make more sense. My photography will be in two general places - Caribbean trips - and NC diving. In North Carolina- wide angle will be the most common - probably not a lot of macro here - but Bonaire and the Caribbean will be mostly macro. If I go Nikon - and upgrade later - will all of the lenses most likely fit a future Nikon (and vice versa with Cannon)? Also, will lenses swap between manufacturers, or will a lens that fits a nikon not work with a cannon?

[John Bantin 101]

thanks for the help - starting to make more sense. My photography will be in two general places - Caribbean trips - and NC diving. In North Carolina- wide angle will be the most common - probably not a lot of macro here - but Bonaire and the Caribbean will be mostly macro. If I go Nikon - and upgrade later - will all of the lenses most likely fit a future Nikon (and vice versa with Cannon)? Also, will lenses swap between manufacturers, or will a lens that fits a nikon not work with a cannon?

 

Lenses do not swap between Nikon and Canon. That's why we all get committed (rightly or wrongly) to one brand. The new V1 Nikon will be available with an optional adapter for fitting Nikon F-type lenses.

[johnjvv 11]

thanks for the help - starting to make more sense. My photography will be in two general places - Caribbean trips - and NC diving. In North Carolina- wide angle will be the most common - probably not a lot of macro here - but Bonaire and the Caribbean will be mostly macro. If I go Nikon - and upgrade later - will all of the lenses most likely fit a future Nikon (and vice versa with Cannon)? Also, will lenses swap between manufacturers, or will a lens that fits a nikon not work with a cannon?

 

Remember you need two different housing ports for wide angle and macro. Why not get something that suits where you live so you get accustomed to your system and diving with all that kit. Also dont rule out macro with a wide angle lens, I have seen some awesome "close focus wide angle" pictures. With a tokina 10-17 you can literally put the camera against the object and it will focus.

 

I am not sure if you have been on Backscatter's website however they have a tool on their homepage where you can put together a system picking your camera, housing and lens and it will then tell what else you need such as extension rings.

Edited December 4, 2011 by johnjvv

[Timmoranuk 10]

Hi Scotty,

 

Inevitably, you'll collect lenses, ports and other stuff. But given your anticipated diving I'd recommend a 60mm macro and macro port, a Tokina 10-17mm, a Kenko 1.4 teleconverter and a Zen 100mm port (or similar) plus extension tubes for the Tokina and Tokina plus Kenko. You'll use the Tokina for standard wide angle and the Tokina plus Kenko for CFWA. By the time you've become reasonably proficient with this kit you'll be totally 'up to speed' with DSLRs and will know exactly what you need for increasing the scope of your shots.

 

Canon or Nikon? I have to say that I'm a dyed in the wool Canon man. Maybe, just maybe, Canon sensors are at present, a nad ahead of Nikon (yes, I'll duck and get my coat...). Ergonomically, maybe the Nikons are better than the Canons for top-side. The top of the class in terms of crop sensors though has to be either the Canon 7D (my choice) or the Nikon D7000. There are bodies from each stable which also perform equally to their respective siblings terms of picture quality and at a lower price but with reduced functionality. Frankly, the cost saving of the Nikon D7000 over the Canon 7D is enough to turn your head...

 

Housings? The one-stop-shop at present is the Nauticam for quality, ergonomics, price, service, support and innovation. I have two and would immediately buy a third if Nauticam supported a full frame Canon. No question.

 

Just my tuppence worth... Hope this helps, Tim

[Scotttyd 0]

Hi Scotty,

 

Inevitably, you'll collect lenses, ports and other stuff. But given your anticipated diving I'd recommend a 60mm macro and macro port, a Tokina 10-17mm, a Kenko 1.4 teleconverter and a Zen 100mm port (or similar) plus extension tubes for the Tokina and Tokina plus Kenko. You'll use the Tokina for standard wide angle and the Tokina plus Kenko for CFWA. By the time you've become reasonably proficient with this kit you'll be totally 'up to speed' with DSLRs and will know exactly what you need for increasing the scope of your shots.

 

Canon or Nikon? I have to say that I'm a dyed in the wool Canon man. Maybe, just maybe, Canon sensors are at present, a nad ahead of Nikon (yes, I'll duck and get my coat...). Ergonomically, maybe the Nikons are better than the Canons for top-side. The top of the class in terms of crop sensors though has to be either the Canon 7D (my choice) or the Nikon D7000. There are bodies from each stable which also perform equally to their respective siblings terms of picture quality and at a lower price but with reduced functionality. Frankly, the cost saving of the Nikon D7000 over the Canon 7D is enough to turn your head...

 

Housings? The one-stop-shop at present is the Nauticam for quality, ergonomics, price, service, support and innovation. I have two and would immediately buy a third if Nauticam supported a full frame Canon. No question.

 

Just my tuppence worth... Hope this helps, Tim

 

thanks a lot

Ok a canon t2i is comparable to a 7d, what would be the "sibling" to the d7000 in the nikon world?

[Timmoranuk 10]

thanks a lot

Ok a canon t2i is comparable to a 7d, what would be the "sibling" to the d7000 in the nikon world?

 

I'd best leave that answer to a Nikon aficionado....

[Scotttyd 0]

Also, what exactly is the Kenko 1.4 teleconverter ? What does it do to the toktino 10-17 lense?

[Timmoranuk 10]

Hi Scotty, please do a search on the Kenko here on the WP forum. You'll find all the answers you need and far more information than I could impart here.

[johnspierce 25]

thanks a lot

Ok a canon t2i is comparable to a 7d, what would be the "sibling" to the d7000 in the nikon world?

 

 

I would not say a T2i is comparable to a 7D, the 7D is considerably up the chain and much more preferable. It is huge bang for the buck though. In the Nikon world the D5100 has the same essential sensor as the D7000, but the same story, you lose a few things dropping down to it, but it is still huge bang for the buck because of the sensor. Any of these bodies will take a great photograph.

 

I think the Canon 7D and Nikon D7100 are very comparable and capable cameras. Both are the top of the game for APS-C sensors. Pick the brand you want to stick with and get some nice lenses to go with it.

 

On housings, I've never used Nauticam but they look very nice. I love my Aquatica, it's dead simple and reliable.

 

JP

Edited December 4, 2011 by johnspierce

[Deep6 7]

Also, what exactly is the Kenko 1.4 teleconverter ? What does it do to the toktino 10-17 lense?

The Tokina 10-17 will not AF on the Nikon D40 or D60. If you decide on an D5100, check out the specs to ensure it will work with you lens choices. No sweat for a D7000.

Bob

Edited December 4, 2011 by Deep6