footlooseii 0 Posted February 7, 2004 I have recently purchased this setup and interfaced it with my existing Ikelite DS-50 & 125 strobes. All appears to work well (land tests, only, so far) ..... the camera fires the strobes, and the ROC system regulates the flash intensity, perfectly. HOWEVER, the camera fails to recognize that the strobes are attached. In apperture priority, it selects whatever exposure times it deems necessary for the light conditions - several seconds, if need be. The hotshoe connector contains only the center pin and the ground connections. I assume this is why the strobes aren't recognized. Is it necessary to operate this system in a fully manual mode, or is there some way to get the camera to choose a proper flash sync speed? Thanks for your help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
james 0 Posted February 7, 2004 If the camera knows that a flash is connected, it will lock shutterspeed at something faster than 1/60th or faster. But if a non D-TTL flash is connected to the D100, the red lightning bolt will flash and the camera won't take a shot. So, you will have to shoot the camera in M or S mode I'm afraid - unless you like rear-curtain synced long flash exposures all the time. They are cool, I admit, but not all the time...:-) Cheers James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scorpio_fish 5 Posted February 7, 2004 Using normal flash sync mode in A mode will automatically set camera to 1/60 shutter speed. No big deal. Just set camera to manual mode. Set desired aperture and shutter speed and adjust flash power as needed. This way you can use adjust exposure for ambient background very easily. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danbrady 0 Posted February 8, 2004 I've been told that the ROC system has no problem with shutter speeds up to 1/180th of a sec; faster than that and you may still be firing the strobe(s) when the shutter starts closing. I shoot mine in Manual all of the time, with the fastest speeds used to try to cut down on ambient light in the negative space. (After training for years on Velvia 50, an ISO of 200 in the D100 seems to combine with the better light sensitivity of the CCD to make the light fall-off in empty space much harder to accomplish). Slower speeds down to 1/50th will still freeze a lot of subjects, while pulling in an almost "wide-angle" degree of blue water background. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
