Ryan 48 Posted October 11, 2012 Even if the rumour about upgrading the passive M4/3 mount is not true, don't forget that even a passive mount opens up the use of many types of good (and very cheap) old manual lenses from Nikon, Canon, Zeiss Contax and Minolta with the correct adaptor. Most can be de-clicked if necessary. Some of the old ultra-wides actually produce a nicer image than modern Lumix or Olympus lenses. What would you use? Larger format ultra-wides aren't that wide on this system, unfortunately. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HDVdiver 16 Posted October 11, 2012 What would you use? Larger format ultra-wides aren't that wide on this system, unfortunately. Minolta MD 7.5mm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamDiver 5 Posted October 12, 2012 To put the cat amongst the pigeons, I am making, or at least planning to supply a surf / wet environment housing for this camera. Have got the first prototype molds made and now playing around with design flaws Gen.1 The product is NOT intended to be a deep SCUBA diving solution for the camera, there are many manufacturers with deeper pockets and understanding of the construction process than myself. This will be for surf, pool and element protection shooting options. This is a project I am entering into with the Liquid Eye water housing company who sponsor my surf photography housings. Eventually the housing will bear my company name, liquidmocean, but will also carry branding from Liquid Eye in recognition of their manufacturing of the product. Initially I'm going to be building around the Tokina 11-16mm wide lens (really hoping that sensor gets a boost in future updates). There will also be a HD SDI wet mate connectivity for pool shoots / topside monitoring. More info will be forthcoming as and when available. Cheers, Mark. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Hope 151 Posted October 12, 2012 I would have to disagree with you on this Davide. Underwater, and especially for wide angle shots into the blue, the iris can easily be fooled when shooting auto focus. This can force the clip to go in and out of focus because the cam doesn't quite know whether to focus on the shark in the distance or the blue water. Thus, manual focus has always been the better way to go. Actually, the only time I might use auto focus is for macro work where the lens does a better job than my old eyes. Steve But don't you use momentary auto focus to set the focus in manual mode? Or do you do it by eye in manual mode? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davide DB 398 Posted October 12, 2012 Minolta MD 7.5mm Or the Samyang fisheye 7mm... but, again, how do you control the iris and the focus? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davide DB 398 Posted October 12, 2012 I would have to disagree with you on this Davide. Underwater, and especially for wide angle shots into the blue, the iris can easily be fooled when shooting auto focus. This can force the clip to go in and out of focus because the cam doesn't quite know whether to focus on the shark in the distance or the blue water. Thus, manual focus has always been the better way to go. Actually, the only time I might use auto focus is for macro work where the lens does a better job than my old eyes. Steve Hi Steve, personally even with my 11/10 diopters I would not be able to manual focus a shark into the blue. At least with a 3" screen. With my old consumer Sony HC07 housing I had MF or AF. Given that AF was continuosly hunting in the blue, for these shots I was locking the focus at about 3/4 meters hoping that DOF will be enough deep, to put simply an endless bet. Now, with my GH2, again the AF is easily fooled by the big blue So, two options: as above trying to mantain a pretty close aperture or (the method I use often) using the single AF which is very reliable on the subject via the AF-Lock button. Now the focus is locked and again I'm depending on the DOF. I haven't experience with a pro camcorderd and a large display (maybe with focus peaking)... Anyway MF or AF, I don't know the commercial appeal of a MF only camera/housing. What do you think? Bye Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HDVdiver 16 Posted October 12, 2012 (edited) Or the Samyang fisheye 7mm... but, again, how do you control the iris and the focus? Focus is fixed (only works with a large dome since can't use a diopter). Aperture controlled manually. Comparative tests I've done with a couple Samyang/Rokinors leave me very unimpressed with their optical quality (they don't look too bad until you do a side-by-side comparison with the Lumix 8mm, Minolta MD 7.5mm or Canon FD 7.5mm. The Lumix 8mm is a superb lens. I use the Minolta in addition because the color rendition and sharpness is unmatched by anything else I have ever used (including Zeiss optics). I quess that's why they are very hard to find in good condition and mint ones sell for more than a new Lumix 8mm. Edited October 12, 2012 by HDVdiver Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dmitriy 0 Posted October 29, 2012 So I made an account on here just to post the possible touchscreen solution: http://blog.makezine.com/2012/10/29/magnetic-appcessories-with-andrea-bianchi/ Maybe blackmagic will figure it out :-) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MJvC 9 Posted October 30, 2012 I came across this test the other day comparing 8bit dslr capture vs 12bit of the BMC. I am not sure if the method of comparison gives an accurate representation but the respective videos are quite different even when viewed on VIMEO. http://nofilmschool.com/2012/10/why-dslrs-are-no-match-for-blackmagic-cinema-camera/ or http://vimeo.com/52269416 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
