Olympus OM-D E-M5

[calicant 0]

My camera came like this direct from Olympus - I've never been able to update it.

 

I can't believe it is a computer memory issue - I have a fair bit on my machines.

 

Alex

 

When you connect the usb cable to the E-M5 and see the "storage" option on the camera screen you must click "ok" on the camera for it to go into that mode. Then the updater software should discover the camera and find the latest firmware updates from Internet.

[deepbluemd 9]

My camera came like this direct from Olympus - I've never been able to update it.

 

I can't believe it is a computer memory issue - I have a fair bit on my machines.

 

Alex

 

Alex, this does not sound a memor issue or even like an Olympus version issue, but rather a windows driver problem. If the camera is plugged in, but the computer does not recognize the device, either there is no driver to establish a connection or the device is assigned to a port that is in conflict or unavailable. I would try redownloading and installing the driver, and any updates or patches from the Olympus website, and then try reconnecting. Here's the link.

http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_support_downloads.asp?id=1583

 

Alternatively, I imagine there is a "hard reset" procedure for this camera which may (or may not) default to the original firmware version.

 

good luck.

 

Hugh

[Deep6 7]

Sorry I have not been more help. I think Hugh described the "communication" problem I had. If you get connected, hopefully the updater with point you to the right link. I don't see a 1.2, 1.4, 1.5 path for windows on the Oly site. There is one for the mac.

 

http://www.olympusam...sp?id=1583&os=m

 

Bob

Edited November 28, 2012 by Deep6

[tobyone 29]

Sorry just posted this in the comments, I used the om-5 in a blast freezer at -36º F for multiple 5 minute stints. When exiting the freezer to an ambient temp of 50º F, condensation on the camera would turn to Ice. I used insulated bags to let the camera temp equalize. It worked great the weather sealing is a real plus. I had a Nikon 200 sensor fail under the same conditions.

I have used the camera on two dive trips. Housed in the Nauticam with a 12-50 kit lens. Very nice results. One can assign a button function to shift the focal length from the 12mm wide end to the 50mm position. With a +4 diopter one can go from wide to macro with the same lens. Used this lens with the 6 in dome for the 7-14 pan.

[RogerC 4]

I don't have a 60mm yet. Just curious, anyone having any luck with ttl with macro? optical or electrical? P/A/S/M? what strobe?

 

thanks.

[Alex_Mustard 0]

I would think TTL would be fine. I have been shooting it on manual with my S-2000s, which are a pain to switch between manual and TTL underwater (for obvious reasons).

 

Alex

[guyharrisonphoto 21]

Hello, I have just been doing some tests with the 12-50 port and gear and though this info would be of interest.

 

"Regular zoom" mode. The operation of the power zoom is excellent. The zoom knob on the housing controls the zoom as you twist it against the spring-loaded power zoom ring on the lens. For most of the twist, you are in "slow zoom" mode (better for video), but at the very end of the twist, the lens jumps to "fast zoom" mode (better for photos). If you don't twist it all the way, it is easy to assume that you only have access to "slow zoom" but that is not the case. The twist to fast zoom takes only a second. Close focus at the wide end is under one foot. This is a great solution for general scenics. Maybe it is possible to get CFWA with a diopter, but I do not have one to try this with.

 

"Macro" mode. This is where it gets really amazing. The switch is instantaneous and, no matter where you were in the zoom range, the lens jumps to 43mm and the farthest focus possible in macro mode (one or two feet from the subject). You move closer to get higher magnification. I can fill the frame with a SD memory card. Measuring the card, it is 25x36mm. In 35mm terms this is "true macro" because it is 1:1 magnification. Thus, this lens magnification equals what is still, today, the maximum magnification of 35mm full frame macro lenses.

 

The working distance from the front of the port at this magnification is 2 inches. So, with a diopter, it might be possible to get even higher magnification although you will be getting very close. Not sure if it would work as I do not have a diopter.

 

I had ordered the flip adapter for this port, but the high magnification of the lens and the close working distance caused me to cancel that order. It is just not needed.

 

These tests were on land as I have not gotten out to dive with it yet, but I can't wait!!

 

For Roger C above, I have shot in optical TTL with 2 YS-D1s using the 12-50 in macro mode at 2" from the subject, and the TTL worked fine. Manual exposure mode at 1/250 shutter speed, but TTL exposure mode for the flash (set camera flash to "fill" and strobes to TTL). Also, the D1s give nice ratio lighting control even in TTL for creative shadows and textures even at that close distance.

Edited November 29, 2012 by guyharrisonphoto

[tdtaylor 1]

For Roger C above, I have shot in optical TTL with 2 YS-D1s using the 12-50 in macro mode at 2" from the subject, and the TTL worked fine. Manual exposure mode at 1/250 shutter speed, but TTL exposure mode for the flash (set camera flash to "fill" and strobes to TTL). Also, the D1s give nice ratio lighting control even in TTL for creative shadows and textures even at that close distance.

 

I have found that sTTL with the YS-D1 is not very reliable. I have 2 OMDs, tested both in the housing with several hundred shots, and another person has had the same issues. Settings same as above, as well as A and S settings on the camera. 3 or 4 shots will be correct exposure (with 4 to 5 seconds between with fresh batteries), then one frame will be completely overexposed. Later, one will be completely underexposed. About 70% were properly exposed. Tried it on three separate nights after disassembling and reassembling the setup each time, to make sure it was not some stupid error on my part. Macro or wide, same results. Maybe I am spoiled with the consistency of my full frame setup with electronic connections adn TTl exposure adjustments.

 

Also, we have found the 4 "adjustment settings" for TTL (empty circle, half, quarter and full) have very little effect on the output of the strobes, as well as trying to adjust the strobe through the camera compensation. Have also verified my strobes are not one of the ones being recalled for firmware updates.

 

With these issues I have been shooting in Manual with the strobes, with the camera set on 1/16 Manual flash setting. With these settings, the camera and strobes work fast, and in the little bit of time I have had with it since the battery life is greatly extended. Unfortunately, from now until March I won't be diving much (pool works and DiveCon training). Have to wait for the local diving to come back on line and a trip to Cayman Brac in March.

 

 

P.S.- I had issues on a Mac updating the software to 1.5 from 1.4. Computer didn't recognize the camera. I restarted both the computer then the camera, and if I remember correctly, with a couple of tries, I then started the software then plugged in the camera. Both update fine after that, but it took some tinkering with it to get the combination/timing correct.

[troporobo 245]

I don't have a 60mm yet. Just curious, anyone having any luck with ttl with macro? optical or electrical? P/A/S/M? what strobe?

 

Yes. I am having a good experience so far, using a pair of Inon S2000 strobes with the OM-D using an optical connection. Here is an example that is not quite macro but at maybe 4" working distance from the front of the port, camera in manual, strobes on sTTL. I have had only one weekend in the water with it yet, but am getting in the car in an hour to practice some more . . .

 

[Alex_Mustard 0]

P.S.- I had issues on a Mac updating the software to 1.5 from 1.4. Computer didn't recognize the camera. I restarted both the computer then the camera, and if I remember correctly, with a couple of tries, I then started the software then plugged in the camera. Both update fine after that, but it took some tinkering with it to get the combination/timing correct.

 

That may have been my problem. Alex

[guyharrisonphoto 21]

Sorry just can't help posting this shot of my new baby! Now, can't wait to post shots FROM the new baby!

[Alex_Mustard 0]

Looking good. Which dome is that?

 

Alex

[guyharrisonphoto 21]

That's the Nauti 6" dome specifically for the 7-14.

[ajay 13]

Hi folks, I am sort of trying to decide between the OMD and a Sony Nex-7 for UW as well as topside camera. I suppose at least some of you OMD fans probably considered both before deciding. Since I want the same camera for both top and UW, and I want to avoid lens changes, so my current choice looks like:

OMD + 12-50 + pana 14-140 (topside walk-around) VS. Nex-7 + 18-55 + 18-200 (topside walk-around); For macro I'd use a wet lens.

 

I think I've been through all the discussions here, and and various reviews of both systems on the internet over the last week :-), and am still undecided, but with a slight preference for the Sony (no bias.. I am currently using an Oly E-PL1).

 

I wonder if those who evaluated both (Phil, Alex, ...) can push me in one direction or the other? Either ways, I'll be keeping it dry in a Nauticam housing, and I want to get a sense of camera utility, topside and UW, and not worry about cost comparisons at this time.

 

Thanks!

Ajay

[guyharrisonphoto 21]

Oops, posted these in the wrong thread. Here at last are some contributions of some shots I have taken with the OM-D, Nauti housing, pany/leica 45mm in a nauti port. These were from the Blue Heron Bridge (florida) about a month ago and are all subjects are 1" to 2 or 3"(20-50 mm). Garden eel, mantis shrimp, seaweed blenny, hermit crab.

 

This was my very first (and so far, only) shoot with the camera. Will be in Curacao in a week to really work it out. Still getting used to the shallow dof for being so close (could only get one eye of the mantis shrimp in sharp focus). Overall, I am just thrilled with the quality of what I got from this system.

 

Everything you see in the photo of my system above, plus a video light, fits perfectly in my roll-on pelican case. No checked bags or extra charges necessary.

[deepbluemd 9]

Hi All,

I'm curious what others are finding with their OMD-EM5/Nauticam setups in terms of tray-to-housing ergonomics. As you can see in the photo a few posts above (GuyHarrisonPhoto rig), that the flexitray is a little long for the housing. I have the same setup and even though I have quite large hands it is still a stretch to reach the shutter release. I played around with trying to bolt the flexitray pieces together in a different configuration but wasn't happy with any of the results. I know Alex M has shot with the Nauti Hand Strap and attached strobes to the center cold shoe slot...an economical configuration to be sure, but a little awkward to make strobe arm position adjustments. What are others doing, and have you found a similar lack of ergonomic comfort with this housing & tray, say compared to other Nauti housings and handles where the shutter release is more of a trigger pull?

 

I'm wondering about just using the tray with the Left handle attached, and combining this with the hand strap on the Right. The housing has the thumb groove and place for fingers to wrap around the front, which seems to invite bare hand control on the right side for good positioning to work the shutter release. I'd probably put one strobe arm on the left handle and the other on the cold shoe center post. Thoughts?

 

thanks

 

Hugh

[jlyle 8]

I use an Ultralight tray. The position of the camera can be adjusted left/right.

[coroander 16]

Hugh, I leave the right hand grip at home. I don't like the ergonomics with the right hand grip attached, instead i use the tray and left hand grip and i use the Nauticam M10 ball which screws into the housing -- it's very solid. The right arm attaches to the M10 ball, the left arm attaches to the left grip. The centre coldshoe can be used for a focus light. Perfect. I've not tried the right hand strap (yet), but it's probably a good idea as long as it doesn't constrain my hand from it's current ideal position :-)

Edited December 4, 2012 by coroander

[deepbluemd 9]

Thank you, that's helpful and seems like it makes the most sense to me as well.

[Alex_Mustard 0]

I'm curious what others are finding with their OMD-EM5/Nauticam setups in terms of tray-to-housing ergonomics. As you can see in the photo a few posts above (GuyHarrisonPhoto rig), that the flexitray is a little long for the housing. I have the same setup and even though I have quite large hands it is still a stretch to reach the shutter release. I played around with trying to bolt the flexitray pieces together in a different configuration but wasn't happy with any of the results. I know Alex M has shot with the Nauti Hand Strap and attached strobes to the center cold shoe slot...an economical configuration to be sure, but a little awkward to make strobe arm position adjustments. What are others doing, and have you found a similar lack of ergonomic comfort with this housing & tray, say compared to other Nauti housings and handles where the shutter release is more of a trigger pull?

 

I am happy shooting it that way. I like holding the housing directly (like a camera) and like the strap, which is makes one handed shooting very simple.

 

I didn't use the cold shoe as a strobe mount on a whim. I spoke with Nauticam peeps and they told me the rating, which greatly exceeded the weight of my small strobes, arms and joints. Using the three way clamp is the main drawback, as it limits strobe positioning. Fortunately I have a pretty clear idea where I want my strobes for any given shot, so it doesn't cause me many problems.

 

Here are front and back-lit photos of a baby sea star from the other day (it was tiny, taken with 60mm, FIT +5 and FIT +16 dioptres, uncropped), showing I have good flexibility in positioning my lighting.

 

 

However, I think the tray remains the better solution for most people, most of the time. Even though it greatly increases the size and weight of the rig, I think you are paid back in ease of use and comfort. In the end, what is the point in taking a fine camera like this underwater and restricting its full potential.

 

Hi folks, I am sort of trying to decide between the OMD and a Sony Nex-7 for UW as well as topside camera. I wonder if those who evaluated both (Phil, Alex, ...) can push me in one direction or the other? Either ways, I'll be keeping it dry in a Nauticam housing, and I want to get a sense of camera utility, topside and UW, and not worry about cost comparisons at this time.

 

I've not tried the NEX-7 underwater. My understanding is that the image quality is slightly superior to the Olympus, but the usability particularly the lens choice is limits its potential underwater. Shooting through too much water (i.e. not having the right lens for underwater photography) will degrade your image quality far faster than the difference between sensors.

 

See also here: http://www.backscatt...rrorlessindepth

 

Alex

[Deep6 7]

Hugh, I leave the right hand grip at home. I don't like the ergonomics with the right hand grip attached, instead i use the tray and left hand grip and i use the Nauticam M10 ball which screws into the housing -- it's very solid. The right arm attaches to the M10 ball, the left arm attaches to the left grip. The centre coldshoe can be used for a focus light. Perfect. I've not tried the right hand strap (yet), but it's probably a good idea as long as it doesn't constrain my hand from it's current ideal position :-)

 

I am having trouble visualizing this set up. Will you please post a photo?

 

Bob

[guyharrisonphoto 21]

Hugh,The flextray can get much narrower between the handles. However, I have the flextray at its maximum extension for a reason. I shift the housing to the left, and hold the actual housing in my right hand. The housing seems designed to function this way as opposed to DSLR housings which are designed to function with your right hand on a handle and your fingers reaching various protruding knobs. The housing is shifted all the way to the left on the tray so the right hand goes between the right handle and housing, and grasps the housing directly and I have instant access to all controls with no difficulty at all. As for the left handle, I hold that one, because the zoom knob and mode selector are easily reachable and operable.

 

With this arrangement, the right tray handle serves no function in photography except as a mount for my strobe arm. When shooting video, however, I start the video running and then hold the tray very lightly by the handles. This technique, along with the camera's image stabilizer, eliminates almost all vibration and is best for smooth video shots.

 

You could, I suppose, dispense with the right handle and mount your right strobe arm on the housing itself, but, you lose that important third mounting point for a video light like the Sola 4000 that I would not want to put on the cold shoe. You could also eliminate the handle and just put a ball directly down on the tray, but then your are off-kilter from the left strobe mount.

 

So far, I like the tray set-up the way I have it. I will continue experimenting, of course.

[pompeygreg 1]

Hugh, I leave the right hand grip at home. I don't like the ergonomics with the right hand grip attached, instead i use the tray and left hand grip and i use the Nauticam M10 ball which screws into the housing -- it's very solid. The right arm attaches to the M10 ball, the left arm attaches to the left grip. The centre coldshoe can be used for a focus light. Perfect. I've not tried the right hand strap (yet), but it's probably a good idea as long as it doesn't constrain my hand from it's current ideal position :-)

 

I'd also be interested in a photo of this setup as well. When you say the M10 ball screws into the housing, where?

 

Greg

[coroander 16]

image to follow...

Edited December 4, 2012 by coroander

[Phil Rudin 462]

I use the wrist strap all the time both with and without the Flex-tray. When using my Athena ring flash I remove the tray. With two Inon Z-240's for W/A I use the tray. I sometimes remove the right grip when shooting a lot of macro in portrait/vertical orientation. The wrist strap allows you to reach the shutter without any stretch and the grip supports the back of the hand causing less fatigue to the wrist.

 

Phil Rudin