Olympus OM-D E-M5

[pompeygreg 1]

I use a neoprene bag that I had with my Inon wide angle.

[glee719 6]

Probably all the ways that I con myself to believe by spending more money I can solve all my bad over/under problems It's psychological I admit.

 

Thanks Phil, I look forward to seeing your review (and I will go search on Scubaboard.)

 

I have not used it so cannot comment, but I am curious..in what way have you been unhappy with the Nauticam dome?

[glee719 6]

Lost mine when I got knocked around on the rocks coming out of a shore dive. I too use an alternative now. Replacement is too expensive...

 

Nauticam Macro Port Lens Caps---Looose!

 

I have just purchased an O-M5 with a Nauticam housing. The macro ports come with these lens caps that keep falling off. I haven't even taken them diving yet, but the I'm afraid to take them on the boat because the port glass would be unprotected. Moving down from a Subal ND20, I'm a little miffed about this. Does anyone have any ideas or leads to other port covers for the 12-50 and 65 mm ports?

[Phil Rudin 426]

Glee,

 

I think it is clear that the bigger the port the better the split images. I do however see an upside for glass over acrylic in O/U shooting and that seemed to be clear to me with this port. You could in theory get the ZEN Subal type III port adapter for the NA-EM5 housing and go with a 230mm port but I think this would be overkill. I am happy with the O/U shots from this port with the 7-14 and the Olympus 12mm F/2. The big upside to this port over the Nauticam port for the 7-14 is that it will work with more lenses and takes up less space packing for travel. This is because you can add a 20mm port extension for 7-14, 12-35, 9-18 and shoot without the extension for lenses like the 12mm and other non-zoom lenses. BE AWARE THIS PORT DOES NOT WORK WITH THE 8MM FISHEYE. The port also works well in NEX housings with lenses like the 10-18 zoom (with extension) and the 16mm with W/A and Fisheye adapters.

Also be aware that the ZOOM GEAR from Nauticam DOES NOT fit into this port and a gear is yet to be developed so I used the 10-18 set to 10mm prior to diving.

 

Since both the Nauticam six inch dome and the Zen 170 dome are about the same size their is little difference in image quality in the corners. I find both ports to be more than adequate in this area at 7mm, 114 degrees when you consider results from full frame lenses like the 14-24 at the same 114 degrees behind nine+ inch ports.

 

Phil Rudin

[Glasseye Snapper 47]

Hi Bart,

Try going to "My Settings" on the profile page and update the "Signature" (third down). That should work.

 

Cheers,

Steve

Thanks Steve, just did and in a few seconds I will find out if it worked.

 

Bart

[glee719 6]

Phil, I use the 7-14mm so you are saying the Nauticam zoom gear for 7-14 also doesn't fit into this port? Many thanks.

 

 

...

Also be aware that the ZOOM GEAR from Nauticam DOES NOT fit into this port and a gear is yet to be developed so I used the 10-18 set to 10mm prior to diving.

...

[Phil Rudin 426]

No that is NOT what I am saying. The 7-14 gear works just fine in the 170mm port but the Sony 10-18 lens is so fat that with the gear it will not fit into the port. Same for the Ziess 12 mm for the Sony NEX cameras it is about 82mm across and the port opening is only about 72mm. The Olympus 12mm fits well and works great without adding the extension.

[Karl 7]

Nauticam Macro Port Lens Caps---Looose!

 

I have just purchased an O-M5 with a Nauticam housing. The macro ports come with these lens caps that keep falling off. I haven't even taken them diving yet, but the I'm afraid to take them on the boat because the port glass would be unprotected. Moving down from a Subal ND20, I'm a little miffed about this. Does anyone have any ideas or leads to other port covers for the 12-50 and 65 mm ports?

 

Just by a 67mm lens cap for your port and attach it to the housing - it works well and I just used the cord that came with the lens cap and tied it through the small silver rods on the bottom of the side of the housing. This way it stays with the housing and when under water I just wrap it around the try (the cord) to keep t out of the way.

 

Karl

[Phil Rudin 426]

Also keep in mind that most of use will add a flip adapter for a closeup lens or direct mount the C/U lens to the port which will also protect the port.

[Deep6 7]

Also keep in mind that most of use will add a flip adapter for a closeup lens or direct mount the C/U lens to the port which will also protect the port.

That's what I do on the 70 mm port (12-50 or 60 mm). Just have to remember to flip it open at the first of the dive

Bob

Edited June 22, 2013 by Deep6

[MarkB 2]

I have a question concerning an earlier part of this thread about the settings of the OMD for underwater.

 

I am trying to set the F2 button to the flash setting (so that I can change from TTL to manual quickly) but I can't seem to find that option on the menu. However, on the Button Funtion menu, my options skip from Magnify to OFF so I don't get a choice of the Flash Mode (the lightning symbol).

 

Any idea of what I am doing wrong and how I can assign that function to the F2 button?

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

[coroander 16]

The E-M5 is very configurable, but not every function can be assigned to every button. Setting F2 to change the flash mode does not appear to be possible. You can assign flash mode to right arrow or down arrow (if <^v> is set to Direct Function.

[glee719 6]

Do you mean to change the flash power from 0 to some + or - compensation in the camera body? Or do you mean to change the flash mode from "fill" to some other setting?

 

I don't really see the need to do that since you can change it on the strobe quite easily and keep the camera setting the same.

 

 

I have a question concerning an earlier part of this thread about the settings of the OMD for underwater.

 

I am trying to set the F2 button to the flash setting (so that I can change from TTL to manual quickly) but I can't seem to find that option on the menu. However, on the Button Funtion menu, my options skip from Magnify to OFF so I don't get a choice of the Flash Mode (the lightning symbol).

 

Any idea of what I am doing wrong and how I can assign that function to the F2 button?

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

[glee719 6]

I visited a shop in Taiwan and he makes customized CNC aluminum gadgets for U/W cameras. It's a sliding mechanism instead of a flipping mechanism. I tried both types and feel there are both with advantages and disadvantages. At the end I picked the flip type he makes because it was < $100. It's a very solid piece with precision. If anyone is interested I can post a quick review on this.

 

That's what I do on the 70 mm port (12-50 or 60 mm). Just have to remember to flip it open at the first of the dive

Bob

[MarkB 2]

Do you mean to change the flash power from 0 to some + or - compensation in the camera body? Or do you mean to change the flash mode from "fill" to some other setting?

 

I don't really see the need to do that since you can change it on the strobe quite easily and keep the camera setting the same.

 

 

 

I did what to change it from fill to manual. You don't need to change the settings in the camera except that when shooting the strobes manually it is better to set the camera's manual setting to the lowest power (1/64) so that it recycles quicker. When going back to TTL, you should then reset the flash setting to Fill. Using the arrow button (which I now know how to do) makes this much quicker.

[troporobo 237]

I visited a shop in Taiwan and he makes customized CNC aluminum gadgets for U/W cameras. It's a sliding mechanism instead of a flipping mechanism. I tried both types and feel there are both with advantages and disadvantages. At the end I picked the flip type he makes because it was < $100. It's a very solid piece with precision. If anyone is interested I can post a quick review on this.

 

I am definitely interested! Contact details would be great too. Thanks

[wydeangle 33]

KFish's MODE DIAL COVER just fell off her nearly new E-M5 - yikes!

 

Has anyone else experienced this, and if so, how does it get reinstalled permanently? Superglue? Double-sided tape? Ship to Olympus under RMA (pain...)?

 

Tom

[Phil Rudin 426]

This is a well documented problem and many have used the super glue while others have returned to Olympus for the free fix.

[oda 0]

I did read almost all of the posts in this very interesting and informing thread. But I didn't find the answer to my question:

Actually, I want to buy the NA-EM5, now reading a lot of stuff (what to buy, what to consider). But I still don't know how I can connect my two INON S2000 strobes with my optical cables having "no end" (cut-off). It seems like there are only the Sea&Sea plugs...Or are there two tiny holes for my sort of cables?

Andreas

[Yako 8]

are there two tiny holes for my sort of cables?

 

 

 

Yes, the housing have two tiny holes. See the photo. They are between the bigger holes (Sea&Sea plugs...), but in vertical --> http://www.nauticam.com/product-image.asp?id=159&pid=1

Edited June 26, 2013 by Yako

[oda 0]

Great, thank you very much! Wasn't sure and didn't find sample pics with connected INON strobes...I'm looking forward to be a part of the EM5 community

Edited June 26, 2013 by oda

[denniscloutier 2]

This is a well documented problem and many have used the super glue while others have returned to Olympus for the free fix.

 

Not quite free. I just got that fixed. Olympus originally wanted to charge me about $180, but I managed to talk them down to about $80 to fix it. My camera was about 1 month out of warranty. If I hadn't lost the knob I think I would have tried gluing it back on myself.

[oskar 6]

Speaking of optical triggering. Does anyone if my old YS110 (non-alpha) would work with the EM5?

 

These have an early TTL / pre-flash cancellation circuit that has been known to cause problems with some cameras. However, if i can reuse these on the housing the upgrade equation becomes much nicer

[jdiver 1]

I use the old YS110 strobes with the EM5. Works very well, but I only use it in manual, that way I can turn the camera flash down to 1/64 power for really fast recycle time. I found the ttl t be a little inconsistent, not sure if better or worse than human error when using manual. But I really like the fast recycle time so I prefer manual.

[glee719 6]

Both of my dials fell off soon afterward. I epoxied them and almost got them stuck because I used too much and they dripped down. I had to keep on turning the dials to keep them loose

 

I didn't bother sending it back to Olympus. They will know that was used in a housing and then claim all warranty voided. They are good at that.

 

 

 

Not quite free. I just got that fixed. Olympus originally wanted to charge me about $180, but I managed to talk them down to about $80 to fix it. My camera was about 1 month out of warranty. If I hadn't lost the knob I think I would have tried gluing it back on myself.