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A great area of the diving world and nice images, to bad the country is in chaos.

 

Phil Rudin

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I am hoping for improvements on video capabilities so it can compete with Panasonic GH3.

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Yep, that's your IS. Bob

I tried turning it off but i still get the same noise when filming. Ill try it again and see if i was doing something wrong.

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Well it was bound to happen at some point. My knob fell off.

 

Mode selection knob that is.

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Well it was bound to happen at some point. My knob fell off.

 

Mode selection knob that is.

Oh God, that must be painful. :monkey:

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Happened to mine also. The service center reattached it but it still does not seem too secure

 

It looks like the housing gear puts an eccentric load on the knob, which then eventually works loose (although I have read on the land photo forums that others have experienced this too). If it happens again I might just epoxy it

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If your camera is new, send it back to Olympus. If the camera is more than a year old, glue the cap back on; you don't want to void the camera's warantee by fixing it yourself.

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Well, yes, if the service center is readily accessible, that would be the thing to do. In my case it isn't and I was without my camera for 10 days. Sometimes practicality is more important

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My issue is I am due to head to the Maldives in 2 weeks time. I don't really want to chance the camera not coming back to me in that period, especially as the "repair centre" address I have been sent is a DHL hub. When my lens failed it ended up going to Portugal to be fixed, although that was back in 10 days or so.

 

I'm not convinced that the knob issue is related to pressures placed by the housing. Mine has hardly been used in the housing so far due to the lens failing at the start of my last trip. The knob fell off mine while I was using it outdoors on a relatively warm day.

 

I think I am going to chance some super glue :-(

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Just glue it....

 

Boogers I just lost the other cap. the other thing is the v/f eye piece keeps falling off. The camera is really nice, but some design problems

Bob

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Just thought I would share my home made fibre optic snoot I have made for my set up - fits my Sea & Sea YS110A strobes.

 

Have dry tested them and they work well - hoping to wet test them before I head off to Tulamben Bali next week.

 

Karl

 

Snoot+Part+B++-+01.jpg

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I have just bought the OMD and will be getting the Nauticam housing also. From reading all these posts my intention to help spread the cash outlays is to:

 

1. get the 60mm #36163 port first and use it with the 12-50 lens and use the Fn to toggle between 12mm and 50mm.

2. get a flip diopter like the Sub Sea +5 to use at the 50mm setting. If need be I could then get the Austrian zoom gear if just having the two focal lengths is too frustrating

3. get the 60mm macro lens and use it in the #36163 port with the flip diopter

4. finally get the 8mm Panasonic fisheye lens and Nauticam 4.33inch dome port (big single capital outlay)

 

I will then predominately dive with either the 8mm fisheye or the 60mm macro and the 12-50mm will be either a topside lens or when I need to travel very lightly.

 

Would appreciate comment on whether this is a reasonable plan or would it be better to get the 12-50 port and then use the 60mm in it when I get that lens?

 

At the end of the day I am trying to use two ports for three lenses. I'm coming from a background of a Canon S95 in a Recsea housing with Inon fisheye and macro wet lenses.

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My thinking is get the 36162 port and gear set for the 12-50 , then add the 60mm lens and then finally add the 8mm and Fisheye port.

 

This achieves you goal of 2 ports for 3 lens and lets you fully utilise all the features of all lenses.

 

Once you have the ports sorted then add the diopter to improve macro options. You can do this with or without the flip option.

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I agree with pmooney - get the 12-50 port and gears - I have them and (in my opinion) it is worth it. I already had a subsee +5 that I use sometimes. But I was very pleasantly surprised with the macro shots even without diopter. I am just in the process of buying the 4.33 port and Panasonic lens. I found both lightly used so I saved almost 300 dollars on both. I will eventually add the 60mm lens but the 12-50 does take some nice macro shots and I'm ok with giving a little on the macro in order to have the flexibility of the 12-50.

 

If you don't mind used - watch the classified here and scubaboard as I have seen the 12-50 lens, gears and ports for sale there.

 

ENJOY!

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you can use 1 port - the 4" semi dome port for 3 lenses, ie: 12-50mm, 60mm and 9-18mm. For 12-50m, add the flip diopter and wet lens, so you can use for macro at 50mm and reasonably wide at 12mm.

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Thanks Peter, audsred and Mamel for your suggestions. The 60mm in the 12-50 port or vice versa was presenting me with a major mental challenge as I have no hands on experience with either option.

 

I guess coming from a compact background with all options available on the same dive is still etched in my thinking processes, however I also wanted fast AF, minimal shutter lag, good optics and the smallest/lightest rig to travel with.

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Karl,

 

I found your set-up innovative and interesting. Although I have a Seahorn snoot, I've been messing around with something more portable. I have a number of questions for you.

 

1) What is the white thing that you are using to connect your fiber optic fibers?

2) What are your fiber optic fibers (manufacturer and model)?

3) What (yellow) connectors are you using to connect your white thing to the arms containing the fiber optic fibers?

4) What are the yellow end pieces?

 

 

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Karl,

 

I found your set-up innovative and interesting. Although I have a Seahorn snoot, I've been messing around with something more portable. I have a number of questions for you.

 

1) What is the white thing that you are using to connect your fiber optic fibers?

2) What are your fiber optic fibers (manufacturer and model)?

3) What (yellow) connectors are you using to connect your white thing to the arms containing the fiber optic fibers?

4) What are the yellow end pieces?

 

 

 

1. The white pieces are PVC plumbing fittings. The large piece is a 90 - 75mm drain water fitting and the inside piece is a cap for another size pipe - they are glued together. The YS 110A has a diameter of 78mm so I have lined the inside edge of the pipe with 6mm rubber strip which reduces the size and snuggly fits the strobe.

2. The fibre is 10.7mm solid core fibre - unfortunately I am unsure of manufacturer as a mate did a bulk buy.

3. The base connecters are 1/2" Loc-line Part No 51804 3/8" NPT Connectors

4. The end pieces are 1/2" Loc-line Part No 51802 1/2" Nozzle

5. The blue pieces are 1/2" Loc-line segments Part No 51801 (2 sets per arm).

 

All up total cost to me in AUD is about $100 but I have enough pieces leftover to make / try something else.

 

Karl

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Since my camera has the infamous small cracking on the LCD, I'm sending my camera to the Olympus service to change the LCD and to test the mode dial too.

 

I think you are correct, perhaps my camera is the problem and not the Nauticam housing!

 

Thanks, I'll post here the outcome of this strange problem.

 

Just to let you know that Olympus has repaired successfully my OMD and now, the camera works properly inside the fantastic Nauticam housing. They replaced the cracked LCD, glued properly the mode dial and fixed the internal problem and everything is ok now.

 

Thank you all for your help!!

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