YS-D1 or Inon 240?

[henkelphoto 4]

Hi guys,

 

I'm getting the new Olympus OM-D e-m5 and am planning on the Nauticam housing for it. As for flash units, which do you think is better suited to this camera/housing combo?

[John Bantin 101]

Hi guys,

 

I'm getting the new Olympus OM-D e-m5 and am planning on the Nauticam housing for it. As for flash units, which do you think is better suited to this camera/housing combo?

 

I've chosen to take one of each with me on my next trip. I'll let you know what I think in around two weeks!

[jlyle 8]

FWIW, I've ordered the E-M5 housing and two Sea and Sea YS-D1s.

 

http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/ys-d1-strobe-review

 

The YS-1ds are stronger.

[Stewart L. Sy 12]

I just took the YS-D1's for 40 dives in the Philippines. Love em. Fast recycle, great power, nice spread of light.

 

S.

[bvanant 190]

FWIW, I've ordered the E-M5 housing and two Sea and Sea YS-D1s.

 

http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/ys-d1-strobe-review

 

The YS-1ds are stronger.

Sort of stronger. If you look at comparable beam geometries, I think they are the same. Naked without diffusers, the D1 is stronger but narrower. If you put the diffuser on the D1 to get the same beam spread as the Z240 without its diffusers they are pretty much the same. If you put the stronger diffuser on the D1 and the diffuser on the Z240 they are the same again. That being said, the D1 is about $100 cheaper than the Z240 so that may make your decision for you.

Bill

[tdpriest 115]

The YS-D1 looks slightly less flexible in TTL-emulation than the Inon Z-240, but the differences are small. My guess is that there isn't much to choose between them if the YS-D1 proves as reliable and tough as the tried-and-tested Z-240.

 

It might be interesting to compare the sensitivity of the slave sensors in various conditions.

 

 

Tim

 

[Stewart L. Sy 12]

Tim,

 

Not sure what you meant about being less flexible for TTL. D1 has slave function that auto senses preflashes and also has a S-TTL capability. Used the D1 with DSLR and NEX in both manual and TTL, no problems.

 

S.

[bvanant 190]

Tim,

 

Not sure what you meant about being less flexible for TTL. D1 has slave function that auto senses preflashes and also has a S-TTL capability. Used the D1 with DSLR and NEX in both manual and TTL, no problems.

 

S.

One issue with S&S (at least historically) is that the slave sensor sensitivity is very low. I am using a micro-led strobe emulator on my 7D. It triggers perfectly reliably all of my Inon strobes (s2000, d2000, z240) but mostly it requires tremendous fiddling to get it to fire the YS01, the Athena ring (ys01 hardware) or the 110a. I haven't yet gotten a D1 but if it uses the same sensor as the 110a then this MIGHT be an issue for some folks.

Bill

[henkelphoto 4]

Thanks guys, looks like I'll probably be looking at the S&S.

 

Jerry

[tdpriest 115]

Tim,

 

Not sure what you meant about being less flexible for TTL. D1 has slave function that auto senses preflashes and also has a S-TTL capability. Used the D1 with DSLR and NEX in both manual and TTL, no problems.

 

S.

 

There are more stops of variable power in TTL emulation with the Inon Z-240. Inon's slave function has, in the past, been more reliable than Sea&Sea's.

 

Tim

 

[Trevor Rees 1]

The big question for me is which is the most reliable strobe. I've now had a total of six YS110's of which four have died on me and been beyond economic repair. This can't just be bad luck! I'm left with two working ones but feel I really need to carry a spare. It's nice to see that they have been discontinued in favour of a new model, the YSD1. I prefer the look of these compared to the Inons and the tighter beam angle would suit me better - but are they more reliable? Are there any Inon users prepared to own up to strobe failure?

Edited July 7, 2012 by Trevor Rees

[bvanant 190]

I have 7 Inon strobes. One had to be repaired because of a leak (or dumb user error) into the cap that sealed the sync connector. The leak eventually dissolved the pins and got into the main body of the strobe. Cost $250 or so to get fixed. Other than that they have been quite reliable. I think though that the YS110 (not the alpha) was a bad luck device from day 1 with extremely variable TTL results and it just was not a robust design. I have had no issues with my 01 or 110a.

Bill

[Phil Rudin 457]

I have had five Inon strobes, three z-240's and two z-220's that are still in service after more than twenty years without ever having been serviced. I have had no problems with any of the strobes and would be hard pressed to find a reason to want to change.

 

Phil Rudin

[Alastair 2]

i have both Sea and Sea and inons and have not had an issue with any of them however the inons seem more robust. My 220 is now 6 years old and going strong (touch wood). i have even flooded it and it is still working Ilike the look of the D1s with all that power in a small package but i think i will wait to see how such a small body handles the heat build up over multiple strobe bursts - anyone have opnions yet? do you have to use eneloops with the D1 or normal rechargeables are ok?

[bear35 11]

Hi Guys,

I am looking to buy a couple of strobes(a toss up between the D1 and Z240) so when I saw this I thought great, but still not sure.

I seem to be getting the idea that it may be better to stick to the tried and tested Z240??

I have just upgraded to an Olympus EPM1... I?s the difference between the two going to matter to the quality of my pics

[John Bantin 101]

Just got back from a tough trip to Malpelo with both. The YS-D1 is undeniably brighter. I had to tape the diffuser on to stop it coming adrift under water. I have several 240Z but the tubes of the older ones are going black. I was told by the UK importer it was because I was repeat flashing!!! The tube of the YS-DI is much bigger than that of the 240Z. Otherwise, I have had no complaints with either.

[Udo van Dongen 5]

I have three Z-240s. Two type II's and one type III. One of my type II died in Raja Ampat in the beginning of this year after 6 years of functioning perfectly. The circuit board was replaced and now it's a type IV (with LED!), with the original optical sensor of the type II. It costed me € 340,-.

Recently i discovered that the output of the renovated strobe was much stronger then the type III strobe. The type III strobe tubes were going black, just like John's. It is getting a new circuit board right now. The last type II strobe i still use and it is still stronger then the Type III, but not as good as the renovated strobe. Once my Type III is renovated and back i may send my old type II strobe for repair, or just get a S-2000 as off camera strobe (just little more expensive then a new circuit board)

 

I think that all strobes tubes go black/grey after a while, resulting in less performance, which is not a specific INON problem IMO. But maybe there are other wetpixelers who'd like to comment on this.

 

Udo

Edited August 25, 2012 by Udo van Dongen

[Jak Crow 2]

I bought two -D1s in May. I've already had to deal with two replacements. First, one of the units I got in May developed a short and was replaced. Then after a couple weeks, the replacement unit would start flashing red/green on a fresh pair of batteries, so that's been replaced. Now the other unit I got in May flooded in the battery compartment at the beginning of the this month, even though the battery cap and o-ring were in perfect condition, the o-ting was perfectly clean and lubed properly, and the cap sealed correctly. Sea&Sea says they won't cover it under warranty and are basically blaming me for the flooding and want to charge me for the repair. While I have it insured and any cost will be covered, I'm not pleased with their dismissive attitude, especially since I've had to deal with 2 defective units already and quite frankly, they should be the party proving to me their products are more reliable than what I've seen so far.

[dangerzone 1]

I bought two -D1s in May. I've already had to deal with two replacements. First, one of the units I got in May developed a short and was replaced. Then after a couple weeks, the replacement unit would start flashing red/green on a fresh pair of batteries, so that's been replaced. Now the other unit I got in May flooded in the battery compartment at the beginning of the this month, even though the battery cap and o-ring were in perfect condition, the o-ting was perfectly clean and lubed properly, and the cap sealed correctly. Sea&Sea says they won't cover it under warranty and are basically blaming me for the flooding and want to charge me for the repair. While I have it insured and any cost will be covered, I'm not pleased with their dismissive attitude, especially since I've had to deal with 2 defective units already and quite frankly, they should be the party proving to me their products are more reliable than what I've seen so far.

 

Same issues here with the YS-D1's. I'll jump in and have one or both strobes start flashing red/green with fresh batteries, and it's completely random as to when it happens. Sometimes I can get a whole dive, maybe even two, with no problems. Have to start the replacement process, but unfortunately I'm locked in for Lembeh and Ambon over the next two weeks with strobes that are completely haywire.

 

Have you experienced the problem in all strobe operating modes - manual, manual for pre-flash, and TTL?

[jlyle 8]

I took my two, new D1s to Cozumel for three weeks of intensive diving. One of the two units functioned property, the other had issues. Like Damselfish (above), the "bad" strobe would work before a dive with freshly charged batteries, but would sometimes start flashing red/green or green/green for no reason. The same "bad" strobe would also not fire in TTL when used with the "good" strobe; if I covered the "good" strobe I could get the "bad" one to fire...very strange. As soon as I returned to the States, I took the questionable strobe back to the store where I bought it and they sent it back to Sea and Sea for R/R. It's been two weeks...

 

I shot mostly with the strobes in manual mode because of the TTL problems I was having with the one.

Edited September 4, 2012 by jlyle

[Ryan 48]

We sell both, and I can count on one hand the number of Inon warranty replacements we've issued over the past year.

[dangerzone 1]

I took my two, new D1s to Cozumel for three weeks of intensive diving. One of the two units functioned property, the other had issues. Like Damselfish (above), the "bad" strobe would work before a dive with freshly charged batteries, but would sometimes start flashing red/green or green/green for no reason. The same "bad" strobe would also not fire in TTL when used with the "good" strobe; if I covered the "good" strobe I could get the "bad" one to fire...very strange. As soon as I returned to the States, I took the questionable strobe back to the store where I bought it and they sent it back to Sea and Sea for R/R. It's been two weeks...

 

I shot mostly with the strobes in manual mode because of the TTL problems I was having with the one.

 

I think the issue is directly related to being in TTL mode, but I can't confirm it. What you're describing sort of validates my results, and I did notice a few times that with a lot of natural light at shallow depths that the wonky strobe(s) would fire.

 

It seems like this is a case of early-adopter syndrome, and all of the kinks haven't been worked out.

[Jak Crow 2]

Same issues here with the YS-D1's. I'll jump in and have one or both strobes start flashing red/green with fresh batteries, and it's completely random as to when it happens. Sometimes I can get a whole dive, maybe even two, with no problems. Have to start the replacement process, but unfortunately I'm locked in for Lembeh and Ambon over the next two weeks with strobes that are completely haywire.

 

Have you experienced the problem in all strobe operating modes - manual, manual for pre-flash, and TTL?

This wasn't a mode issue. The first strobe had a short, the 2nd would flash red/green after on a few shots then stop working.

 

I took my two, new D1s to Cozumel for three weeks of intensive diving. One of the two units functioned property, the other had issues. Like Damselfish (above), the "bad" strobe would work before a dive with freshly charged batteries, but would sometimes start flashing red/green or green/green for no reason. The same "bad" strobe would also not fire in TTL when used with the "good" strobe; if I covered the "good" strobe I could get the "bad" one to fire...very strange. As soon as I returned to the States, I took the questionable strobe back to the store where I bought it and they sent it back to Sea and Sea for R/R. It's been two weeks...

 

I shot mostly with the strobes in manual mode because of the TTL problems I was having with the one.

 

Both of you have defective units. You will need to replace them.

[dangerzone 1]

You're definitely correct that they are defective. No doubt about it. And as soon as I can take them back, I will.

 

Mine appear to be having issues specifically with TTL (short), and the timing circuit. With some help from Simon at NAD-Lembeh we've got them working for the moment in manual mode. In manual though, if I try to go above +.07, all of my pictures will be black. They both fire, but they're not in sync. As long as I stay at +.07 or below, everything works fine but I don't have the ability to push them any higher. I haven't had the red/green low battery indicator that I get when in TTL mode since making the change.

[Alastair 2]

Where can i get my Inon's serviced and updated. And can i update my Z-220 to a Z-240?