Steen Nissen 3 Posted October 6, 2012 I have just booked myself on a 9 day liveaboard to Socorro on the Rocio Del Mar. Leaving March 2013. i wonder what lenses to bring. I use a D90, and I have the Sigma 17-70, and Tokina 10-17 My question is, Will I find any use for the 17-70 ? is the 10-17 enough for the whole trip, or do I need a new lens, like the Nikon 12-24 ? I dont expect I need any macro lens ? Thanks Steen Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackConnick 76 Posted October 6, 2012 Last time I was there I shot both those lenses on a D300 and they worked fine. Since then, I've gravitated to shooting the 10-17 + a Kenko 1.4 instead of the 17-70 as it is far sharper. You won't have the reach, but you really want to get closer anyway. You definately do not want the 12-24, doesn't focus that close. Here's a couple of shots for comparison: 17-70: Manta Eye.2 by Pixel Letch, on Flickr 10-17: Manta Head shot by Pixel Letch, on Flickr Jack Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steen Nissen 3 Posted October 7, 2012 Thanks for that info. I guess I'm covered. Nice photos, especially the first one. Steen Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tdpriest 115 Posted October 7, 2012 (edited) At a pinch, and unless the visibility is spectacular, you could do very nicely with just the Tokina 10-17mm. I shot everything with a Nikon 10.5mm and a teleconverter when I was in the Revillagigedos Is. I dived from Solmar V. It's a great place... Edited October 7, 2012 by tdpriest Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alex_Tattersall 90 Posted October 7, 2012 That hammer is lovely Tim! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bent C 18 Posted October 7, 2012 I agree with Alex, what a beautiful hammerhead! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackConnick 76 Posted October 7, 2012 I agree that the 10-17 + a teleconverter would be what I'd take. Maybe shoot the 60mm micro behind a dome for sharks... Jack Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bfdc 6 Posted October 7, 2012 ...... You definately do not want the 12-24, doesn't focus that close. Jack Hi Jack...could you explain the comment about the 12-24 please? Granted, it has other issues (sharp corners, etc) but It focuses to 1 foot and I would think with the shots that you showed (large animals) that is way more than enough? Am headed there in 2014....and am just curious.... thx Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bfdc 6 Posted October 7, 2012 Tim, what dome/housing were you using with your 10.5mm/teleconverter combination? thx Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackConnick 76 Posted October 8, 2012 Mainly very bad corner issues and general sharpness. IMHO, you really want a lens that focuses to about 9 or 9.5" behind a dome. It will shoot ok in blue water, I jhust think there are better choices. Jack Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deep6 7 Posted October 8, 2012 (edited) Hi Jack...could you explain the comment about the 12-24 please? Granted, it has other issues (sharp corners, etc) but It focuses to 1 foot and I would think with the shots that you showed (large animals) that is way more than enough? Am headed there in 2014....and am just curious.... thx I use to use the Nikkor 12-24 with a +4 diopter in a 170 mm port. I now use the Tonk 10-17 w & w/o 1.4x TC in a 4.33" dome (The Bare Dome). Much better IMHO. Bob Edited October 8, 2012 by Deep6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jcclink 8 Posted October 8, 2012 Ditto for the 12-24 Nexus setup. The +4 diopter enables lens to focus close & also sharpens edges. I've always had good luck with that lens. But I also now use the 10-17 with mini dome. This is much more convenient for travel & gives great results. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackConnick 76 Posted October 8, 2012 Again, better choices out there. A good quality 77mm (?) +4 diopter is going to cost $150+ or so. And possibly introduce some abberations and chroma to the shots. I love the lens above water, just not my choice uw. YMMV. Jack Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bfdc 6 Posted October 9, 2012 thx for the answers on the 12-24 everyone! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Udo van Dongen 5 Posted October 9, 2012 thx for the answers on the 12-24 everyone! if you're thinking of getting a rectilinear WA lens, i'd suggest to forget about the Nikon 12-24 and get the 10-24 (also Nikon) instead. It focusses closer (no need for diopters), has a bigger range and in the range from 12-24 it's supposed to be as sharp as the 12-24 mm f/4.0. It's also cheaper and slightly lighter. Only drawback is that it's not a f/4.0 over the full range but f/3.5-4.5 (is that a drawback actually??). cheers, Udo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnnyQuest 8 Posted November 4, 2013 Can someone elaborate more on this topic please? I have a Canon 7D with a 10-17 and a 4" mini-dome, and I'm heading to Socorro at the end of January. I'm expecting that the 10-17 alone will be fine for manta since they typically get so close, but for the sharks and whales (if I'm so lucky), I'm wondering if I should pick up a 1.4 TC since I don't expect to get as close. I get the impression that the TC won't simply magnify by 1.4, but I'm not sure why and waht it will exactly do. Can you explain further and give me a recommendation? Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tomeyer 3 Posted November 4, 2013 Hey Johnny, I have been to the Socorro Islands and found the 10-17 to be ideal for most circumstances. I am of the opinion that if the shark is too far away it's probably not worth taking a pic in the first place. They may not come as close as in the Bahamas but you may get a few passes. The Mantas came close enough that I had to duck my head several times. The more you seem to ignore the more curious they get. Tom Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnnyQuest 8 Posted November 5, 2013 (edited) Thanks Tom. That's pretty much what I was thinking, but the idea of being able to shoot humpbacks....they'd be worth shooting regardless (I shot video in Tonga). But I don't know if it's worth it, I'll probably just stick with the 10-17 and hope any big stuff finds me attractive. Edited November 5, 2013 by JohnnyQuest Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Longimanaus 4 Posted November 5, 2013 I went on the Nautilus Explorer trip. I don't think I removed my 16-35mm the entire time. Maybe only for the Tokina 10-17mm. www.matthewramaley.com Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Longimanaus 4 Posted November 5, 2013 One other thing. The challenge I gave myself was shooting a manta and getting the top/bottom lighitng balanced on a frontal shot. Near the surface, the sunlight will dapple their back beautifully, but the underbelly can be dark so I spent some time trying to get my strobes to fire up from beneath the dome at just the right power. I did this with white pointers in South Australia. You will have mantas for hours, so you can get plenty of practice. Once I got the lighting balanced, I never got one of the animals to swim directly at me because they start to ascend from a few meteres out to fly over your head. The closer to the surface you are, the further out they start their ascent glide path. Good luck! Matt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davephdv 0 Posted November 6, 2013 I've been there 4 times. I use the 12-24 the most. 10 -17 is also good though a lot of animals won't get that close. I do agree the shots you get with the 10-17 will be the best, just not many of them for sharks, ect. The Mantas I'd definetly would go with the 10-17, and I did spend a day at Roca Partida shooting a whale shark with the 10-17 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maelstrom 0 Posted November 10, 2013 I normally shoot the 10-17mm with a mini dome, but thinking of adding a 1.4x Kenko telextender for this location. What extension ring should be used with a 7D and Nauticam housing? Hal Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnnyQuest 8 Posted November 18, 2013 Thanks for the responses everyone. I want to ask about another option: As with any TC, I know I’m going to lose some sharpness and focus speed at the expense of a bit more range. So if I crop a shot taken with just the 10-17, will it be sharper or softer than a non-cropped shot taken with the TC. If the cropped, naked 10-17 shot is as sharp, I don’t see the TC getting me anywhere. Same question with the Canon 8-15. Since the reviews/tests I’ve read say the 8-15 is sharper (albeit for a cost), if I get the 8-15, will my cropped shots be sharper or softer than an uncropped shot taken with the 10-17 and the TC? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites