Scubysnaps 9 Posted November 7, 2012 (edited) Could anybody maybe elaborate on this, and perhaps show some examples where it is needed faster than 1/200 and poor results may be given to anything slower? I realise a greater aperture is possible but could one not just raise the iso in this case to counteract the slower flash sync speed at the same aperture? Thanks Paul Edited November 7, 2012 by Scubysnaps Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deep6 7 Posted November 7, 2012 Could anybody maybe elaborate on this, and perhaps show some examples where it is needed faster than 1/200 and poor results may be given to anything slower? I realise a greater aperture is possible but could one not just raise the iso in this case to counteract the slower flash sync speed at the same aperture? Thanks Paul 1/200 sec. should be fast enough to "freeze" the action for most subjects including sun rays. Sometimes conditions require faster syncs to freeze the rays. I took this is cosideration for my choice of the next system, Oly E-M5 D (1/250 sec.) Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scubysnaps 9 Posted November 7, 2012 Thanks Bob, I had a look at some of my shots' shutter speeds, and found I had captured sun rays as low as 1/90? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E_viking 30 Posted November 7, 2012 I suppose that it should give you a bit more maneuverability for the color of the Background. Nowadyas, ISO gives you wiggle room there anyway... I assume that it could help a bit for freezing action. I can not really see that it makes a big difference between 200us & 250us. If I am correct most Canons have 200us as synch and they seem to take just fine Pics! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deep6 7 Posted November 7, 2012 I suppose that it should give you a bit more maneuverability for the color of the Background. Nowadyas, ISO gives you wiggle room there anyway... I assume that it could help a bit for freezing action. I can not really see that it makes a big difference between 200us & 250us. If I am correct most Canons have 200us as synch and they seem to take just fine Pics! Right, 1/180 to 1/200 should do nicely. Clear, calm water is the best and 1/250 can give you a little wiggle room. Back in the old film days I got a few with the Nikonos at 1/90. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spencerjb22 4 Posted November 8, 2012 Where you using a small aperture? I have found that I can get sun bursts ( as with land photography) if I use a small aperture you can still get them with lower SS's. I have the D90 and use f13 (approx) which normally gets a decent sun burst. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aussiebyron 57 Posted November 8, 2012 (edited) I have noticed a big difference with shooting from the maxium flash sync of 1/200th when I had the Nikon D90 and now the maxium flash sync of my Nikon D7000 of 1/320th. I mainly notice the difference my summer shots in clear shallow water with sunbursts and animals such as Manta Rays, Leopard sharks Turtles Here are some unedited stock examples of shooting a f9 and 1/320th ISO100 with the Nikon D7000 and Tokina 10-17mm with Ikelite Ds161 strobes: These are unedited and only resized to be uploaded Regards Mark Edited November 8, 2012 by Aussiebyron 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aussiebyron 57 Posted November 8, 2012 I believe the higher flash sync helps alot in freezing action shots of subjects which have a sunburst in the back ground. More so when you very close to the subject and in shallow clear still water. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scubysnaps 9 Posted November 8, 2012 Thanks Mark, much appreciated for the examples, awesome ones too:) I guess I'm gonna have to hang on for the next DX with even more enthusiasm then Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
