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Interceptor121

Sony Rx100 Housing Choice

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do not get any black edge at 28mm ( 10.4mm ) on RX100 with Nauticam + Inon H100 type 2.

 

I think that's just because what I've got is the Inon UWL-100 which isn't actually made to suit 28 mm equivalent lenses.

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I think that's just because what I've got is the Inon UWL-100 which isn't actually made to suit 28 mm equivalent lenses.

In video mode with stabiliser set to active you should get no vignette with that lens

The uwl100 takes well a moderate amount of zooming so you should see what happens with the corners

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I think that's just because what I've got is the Inon UWL-100 which isn't actually made to suit 28 mm equivalent lenses.

 

Wow, don't you think that is rather waste of money if maximum wide angle is what you are after.

I just read about ur lens, it is actually for 35mm yah ?

http://www.inon.jp/products/lens/lineup.html

 

Holy cow, so many variations and Inon should code it more obviously differentt. Inon seems to love to use description which if 1 digit or alphabet is missed, we could end up buying the wrong product.

.

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Wow, don't you think that is rather waste of money if maximum wide angle is what you are after.

I just read about ur lens, it is actually for 35mm yah ?

http://www.inon.jp/p...ens/lineup.html

 

Holy cow, so many variations and Inon should code it more obviously differentt. Inon seems to love to use description which if 1 digit or alphabet is missed, we could end up buying the wrong product.

.

 

I got it second hand for a fourth of the store price. If not, I'd have got the 28 mm variant. It's not a problem, just means I have to zoom to about 32 mm.

 

Jens

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Wow, don't you think that is rather waste of money if maximum wide angle is what you are after.

I just read about ur lens, it is actually for 35mm yah ?

http://www.inon.jp/p...ens/lineup.html

 

Holy cow, so many variations and Inon should code it more obviously differentt. Inon seems to love to use description which if 1 digit or alphabet is missed, we could end up buying the wrong product.

.

 

You are not really wasting of money, since these wet lenses are not converting a 24mm lens by 0.6 and turning it to a 15mm lens (both 35mm equiv). The way they work is that they create a smaller image of a certain exit diameter, and the way they specify it, a UWL-100 would allow a camera with 7mm lens a certain distance from the wet lens be able to see 100 deg field of view. If your camera just so happens to have a 5mm lens of the exact same spec, you will not be seeing images of 140 deg field of view, but instead will see the edge of the lens, which is often referred to as vignetting. So you zoom in the lens until the field of view from the zoom lens covers exactly the exit diamter of the wet lens.

 

Inon produced variations of these lens because some have a wider exit diameter, allowing a 28mm lens to capture the 100 deg image, or the camera does not have internal zooming, causing the zoom lens to be a bit farther away from the wet lens, thus the zoom lens sees a smaller image, which includes the edge of the wet lens (vignetting). That's why they tell you to zoom in a little.

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Thanks that was a good explanation! What are the actual exit diameters of the Inon UWL-100 variants? I have a S&S lens made for 24mm equivalent that may work then with the RX100.

 

Further to the optics discusion. What hapens to the effective aperture of the lens combination? I suppose it is the same as the original lens or is it atually a larger aperture (lower f-number)?

 

Cheers

/O

 

Inon produced variations of these lens because some have a wider exit diameter, allowing a 28mm lens to capture the 100 deg image, or the camera does not have internal zooming, causing the zoom lens to be a bit farther away from the wet lens, thus the zoom lens sees a smaller image, which includes the edge of the wet lens (vignetting). That's why they tell you to zoom in a little.

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Thanks that was a good explanation! What are the actual exit diameters of the Inon UWL-100 variants? I have a S&S lens made for 24mm equivalent that may work then with the RX100.

 

Further to the optics discusion. What hapens to the effective aperture of the lens combination? I suppose it is the same as the original lens or is it atually a larger aperture (lower f-number)?

 

The exit aperture would be roughly the diameter of the rear element of the wet lens, at close distance. And what your camera's lens sees is its diameter and the distance to the rear of the wet lens.

 

The wet lens works almost like binoculars, which doesn't focus the subject into an image, but changes its magnification factor, and your eyes, acts like the camera & lens. The eyepiece lens of the binocular has to be bigger than the pupil or else you have problem seeing a full image. When using it at night, your iris dialates and the effective pupil diamter is larger, making it harder to see the whole image unobstructed. Also if you pull your eyes farther away from the eyepiece, the problem gets worse, and you see a smaller diamter of the image (as in vignetting).

 

As for light gathering capability, it should not negatively impact. But on some tests, they said it is 'dimmer'? I guess it is pretty easy to test.

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I've been looking into Patima housings but am wondering why they don't put a cold shoe on the top of them?? I like to put my focus/video light on there instead of having to add another handle on the other side of the tray.

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I have the Nauticam housing, which is really sweet. I would disagree about the Ikelite housing. I thought it was a nice housing and not too large. You can easily hold it with one hand. Quality construction and it takes 67 mm thread lenses.

 

The Acquapazza housing looked very nice as well.

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Hello,

 

I would like to ask SPP and Interceptor 121 what you two think of Aqupazza housing. I am deciding between Nauticam and Aquapazza for Sony RX100.

I do not have a chance to put my hands on it to see for myself which one will suit better. I really like your posts and anyone can see how detailed your comments are.

I really appreciate your help.

BariN

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Hello Steve,

Thanks for the link. Yes, i had read it and even tried to find some sort of contact information of Carolyn Wang as I wanted to ask her more Qs.

Her Aquapazza review is probably the only review about Aquapazza housings. That is why i made a post on this site.

The housing looks very good. But is it better than Nauticam?

 

BariN

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Oops, never mind, got the spelling wrong. Found some more review that I am going to look at...

Edited by BariN

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Hey. Been thinking about getting the rx100 mkii

And I see a cheap and simple nb housing ( same as meikon) housing.

 

How it is comparable to the other housing?

Of course material and depth rating is one.

 

I also learnt from the vendor that u will not be able to change the ISO when using this housing. But for uw. Typically we are shooting maybe at 200?100? Just set that.

 

Any thoughts?

 

 

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What is your budget for the RX100M2? Since you're in Singapore (South East Asia), do check out Divervision.com (based in Taiwan). They have a lot of RX100M2 housing, some are very similar to the Nauticam quality but almost half the price. I would stay away from poly carbonate housing despite their price, unless you only want to keep the camera for less than 2 years.

 

The lens on the RX100M2 is not the fastest, so you may have to toy with changing ISO. Are you taking photos with strobe? If you only rely on natural light, you definitely need to be able to adjust ISO especially the deeper you go.

  • Like 1

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<p>Thanks for the website... Certainly we'll priced ! I guess they are in US dollars ? Maybe it's worthwhile to make a trip there!!<br />

<br />

Understood on the ISO portion. Certainly I am looking to get a strobe soon. I have a set of focus light right now. I guess I can grow with it.<br />

<br />

I seen the review on the recsea and nauticam housing. And certainly they are of better quality. I typically own a camera just for uw photos. Hey. The last one I bought was a f200exr like 5 years ago... So it's time to upgrade and make it last longer<br />

 </p>

<p>edit... end up.. i think i know the owner... :)</p>

Edited by hellhole

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You know the owner of Divervision? Man you probably can get a good deal. They're selling the Sea&Sea YS-D1 like $150 cheaper then in the US, grab at least one while you're visiting them!

 

Make sure you let them know if you're visiting to make sure they have them in stock so you can feel the housing etc. I plan to visit them the next time I go back to Asia. My brother just moved from Singapore to Taiwan, so I have reason to stop in Taiwan now!

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Well... Business is business. I know the people at fun in at singapore. Nice stuff fun in has too...

 

End of the year. Time for a holiday... Alway want to try diving in Taiwan green island. Probably will be cold as hell...

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Do report back your experience of diving in Green Island. I saw youtube of video diving in Green Island, so far not that impress compare to Sipadan and Indonesia, may be the youtube video doesn't do Green Island justice.

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Last post of off topic. What I heard so far about green island is same as what u mention. I just thought if I am going there to pick up a casing. Why not just go take a dive!

 

 

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Can you guys please help me as i am new to uw photography:) i have rx100 w ikelite housing, i ´m still learning with it, but i would still like to improve my pictures - what would you reccomand me as next upgrade? Are the wide angle lenses really worth the prize - i ´v been looking for ikelite w30 which is actually pretty $$$:( or should i better go for flashlight? Red filter?

And do you have any basic setting for uw pictures with rx100, i ´m using mode "P", iso 100, F 1.6, auto wb right now..

And one more:) how can i manually adjust white balance with white plate?:) not so necessary for still, but may be usefull for movies i guess?:)

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What I have read so far... The Marco mode by itself is only fair. U need a diopter to have better Marco.

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I assume most people have seen the Acquapazza housing review here:

 

 

What do you think of the feature wherebuy the lens port can be removed & replaced with a 28LD mount base (at the 50 sec point above)?

Edited by JDelage

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It depends on what u have existing... If your lens are already in that format.. Then it makes sense..

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The interchangeable 28LD port is a nice touch, but I think there is a risk. If you're a M67 lens user, there is a risk that when you unscrew your wet lens underwater, you would unscrew that lens port at the same time! I don't see any latch or lock to prevent that from happen. I can imagine just a quarter or half turn counter clockwise, the port would be loose and it would flood the housing. Perhaps one could always duct tape that seam from accident unscrew of the port.

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