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Underwater settings for the Olympus OM-D E-M5

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One thing i didn't mention with the video settings is that if you are using C-AF, then holding the [REC] button down will lock focus. When you release the button it will slowly re-focus (doing a nice focus pull). The only issue to be aware of is that when you first press the [REC] button, the focus will hunt momentarily before locking.

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When I try to access the "Frame Rate" option in the Custom J menu, it is always "grayed out" and isn't accessible (set for "Normal" by default). Does anyone have this problem and/or ideas on how to access it to change the Frame Rate?

 

 

(Firmware in EM5 is version 1.5)

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When I try to access the "Frame Rate" option in the Custom J menu, it is always "grayed out" and isn't accessible (set for "Normal" by default).

Have you tried setting the Mode dial to M? The "Frame Rate" cannot be changed in iAuto, ART, SCN, and [MOVIE] modes.

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thanks for this excellent post. This will make a great starting point for someone beginning to shoot with the OM-D. I maybe be one of them.

Ken

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Have you tried setting the Mode dial to M? The "Frame Rate" cannot be changed in iAuto, ART, SCN, and [MOVIE] modes.

 

Yes, the camera is almost always in Manual mode. I just tried it now and it is still grayed out and in "Normal" value.

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I thought this topic deserved a bit of a bump up the forum, so a quick question!

 

On my flash settings am I right in thinking there would be some benefit to dropping the camera's manual setting down from full when using an external strobe to optimise battery life? What settings are people using?

 

I'm off to the Red Sea next week for my first real outing with the new setup, I can't wait. I did have a minor panic last night when the camera flash wouldn't fire, but then I remembered to flip it up! :blush: Spending more time this week on getting used to using the camera above water!

 

Thanks for all the information above, hopefully it will help me get the most out of the week.

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I did have a minor panic last night when the camera flash wouldn't fire, but then I remembered to flip it up!

 

Remember, if the WB is set to Underwater Mode, the flash will fire in the up or down positions.

 

Bob W

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Hi,

 

The [>] Function button of my camera is grey out in movie mode, thus it cannot be set to WB or ISO setting. Do you know how to fix this?

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The [>] Function button of my camera is grey out in movie mode, thus it cannot be set to WB or ISO setting. Do you know how to fix this?

 

Set "<^v> Function" just below it to "Direct Function" first.

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Hello, I know this is a bit off topic but I was wondering if there was any experience with the OMD EM-1 and whether the aforementioned settings would be a good way to start with that camera. I just purchased one of these and am short listed for the Nauticam housing. Since it is such a new camera there is very little out there online as to advice on where to start.

 

Thanks for any advice

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Hi all.. I have a couple of questions regarding the use of the Inon Z240's with the Nauticam / OM-D EM-5

 

1) "advance cancel circuit switch". Should that be in the up or down position when using optical fibre connection?

 

2) what is the purpose of the +1/4 EV compensation switch on the front?

 

I've learnt one thing…. "there is never a dumb question… it only becomes dumb when you don't ask…" :unsure::dunno:

 

Thanks for your patience - Karen

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Hello, I know this is a bit off topic but I was wondering if there was any experience with the OMD EM-1 and whether the aforementioned settings would be a good way to start with that camera. I just purchased one of these and am short listed for the Nauticam housing. Since it is such a new camera there is very little out there online as to advice on where to start.

 

Thanks for any advice

I also picked up the EM-1 as soon as it came out and am eagerly awaiting the new Nauticam housing (hopefully before my xmas trip to Roatan). Anyway, having both the EM-5 and the EM-1 I can tell you this: they are extremely similar in terms of the menus on the cameras, and they are quite different in terms of the functional buttons/dials/lever configurations on the bodies. But in terms of your question, yes, the menus look and act nearly the same in every important way, and I would use the settings recommended herein as a starting place for UW.

 

From an ergonomic layout, the EM-1 has moved the on/off switch up to the camera left on top, and added dual functionality to this for HDR/AF/Metering and shutter release controls. The EM-1 has also added two new controls to the front right (of the lens) which can be customized to whatever you want. Olympus has also added a 2-position lever to the camera back just to the right of the EVF which controls the AEL as a button, but the lever also toggles controls on top of the on/off switch or whatever you customize it to do. The Fn1 & 2 buttons and record buttons all exist but are physically spread out a little differently and improve your ability to make rapid adjustments. I just returned from a week in Peru where I shot 2000 photos with this camera. I feel that the EM-1 is a solid step up from the EM-5 in every way, but for me, ergonomic design and button layout is smart and intuititive. I can make changes rapidly without ever taking my eye from the gorgeous viewfinder.(Most of the shots in this collection were with the EM-1 and 40-150 lens- Peru 1)

 

good lucky, happy shooting

 

HMS

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Hi all.. I have a couple of questions regarding the use of the Inon Z240's with the Nauticam / OM-D EM-5

 

1) "advance cancel circuit switch". Should that be in the up or down position when using optical fibre connection?

 

2) what is the purpose of the +1/4 EV compensation switch on the front?

 

I've learnt one thing…. "there is never a dumb question… it only becomes dumb when you don't ask…" :unsure::dunno:

 

Thanks for your patience - Karen

 

 

1) the cancel circuit switch is only active with electrical connection. No influence on optical connection.

 

2) The +1/4 is use in strobe on manual setting to slightly increase brightness in the resulting photo.

 

I use 2 Z240 with my OMD they work great!!

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Hi all.. I have a couple of questions regarding the use of the Inon Z240's with the Nauticam / OM-D EM-5

 

1) "advance cancel circuit switch". Should that be in the up or down position when using optical fibre connection?

 

2) what is the purpose of the +1/4 EV compensation switch on the front?

 

I've learnt one thing…. "there is never a dumb question… it only becomes dumb when you don't ask…" :unsure::dunno:

 

Thanks for your patience - Karen

 

Hi Karen,

 

You can find infos here

http://www.inon.jp/pdf-dl/_userdata/inonstrobe2012-en.pdf

and here

http://reefphoto.com/kb.php?id=7

 

My understanding - which is contrary to what "barilhu" says - is:

 

When you shoot "STTL" with your Inon, you will need to have the button in the "Up/Out" position, when you shoot manual, you need to push it in.

("If your camera does not fire a pre-flash, ACC must be disabled.") - when you shoot "Inon manual", you will set your internal OM-D strobe to "manual" and 1/64 power (which saves camera battery power and is enough to trigger the Inon), and no preflash is emitted.

 

The switch in the front is for use with "Auto" - which you normally do NOT use with you rOM-D, so forget it. (The strobe and not the camera will measure the amount of light that is reflected from the subject and will shut off when enough light has arrived. The plus 1/4 switch will cut down the amount of light that reaches the strobe sensor, so the strobe burns longer)

 

Greetings,

 

Jock

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Hi Karen,

 

You can find infos here

http://www.inon.jp/pdf-dl/_userdata/inonstrobe2012-en.pdf

and here

http://reefphoto.com/kb.php?id=7

 

My understanding - which is contrary to what "barilhu" says - is:

 

When you shoot "STTL" with your Inon, you will need to have the button in the "Up/Out" position, when you shoot manual, you need to push it in.

("If your camera does not fire a pre-flash, ACC must be disabled.") - when you shoot "Inon manual", you will set your internal OM-D strobe to "manual" and 1/64 power (which saves camera battery power and is enough to trigger the Inon), and no preflash is emitted.

 

The switch in the front is for use with "Auto" - which you normally do NOT use with you rOM-D, so forget it. (The strobe and not the camera will measure the amount of light that is reflected from the subject and will shut off when enough light has arrived. The plus 1/4 switch will cut down the amount of light that reaches the strobe sensor, so the strobe burns longer)

 

Greetings,

 

Jock

Thank you so much Jock. I've had the strobes for a few years and was rather embarrassed to ask the question. Glad I did :)

 

99% of the time I use the strobes manually and I have already set up my EM-5 as per the instructions. Now I just have to wait for the housing :)

 

Cheers - Karen

 

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I'm pretty sure its the other way

in STTL mode, the position of the magnet/ACC switch doesn't matter

in Manual or External Auto mode, ACC must be canceled by pushing the switch in for the EM5. See below link for list of camera and ACC settings. The EM5 is listed with the DSLRs toward the bottom.

 

http://www.inon.jp/products/strobe/z240/compatibility.html

 

 

 

Thank you so much Jock. I've had the strobes for a few years and was rather embarrassed to ask the question. Glad I did :)

 

99% of the time I use the strobes manually and I have already set up my EM-5 as per the instructions. Now I just have to wait for the housing :)

 

Cheers - Karen

Edited by watboy

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"I'm pretty sure its the other way

in STTL mode, the position of the magnet/ACC switch doesn't matter"

 

Never tested it, but yes, the Reefphoto article says that it is for external auto and manaul, so probably you are right. Did you check?

 

"in Manual or External Auto mode, ACC must be canceled by pushing the switch in for the EM5. See below link for list of camera and ACC settings. The EM5 is listed with the DSLRs toward the bottom."

 

That's what I wrote!

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With all of the Olympus cameras DSLR or M43 it makes no difference if the switch is in or out as long as you are using a fiber optic cord. S-TTL, S-TTL low, Auto, Manual with controller or Full.

 

When you need the switch to be pushed in and locked is when you are using a hard wired cable like the Inon to Nikonos sync cord with the strobe and a bulkhead connector.

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Can anyone comment on the changes in Firmware version 2.0? It looks like the focus can be narrowed to 5X7. How do you set it? Is it a good thing or bad? I am mainly looking for feedback based on shooting macro.

 

Thanks!

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