ProfF 12 Posted January 4, 2013 I have a Nauticam housing for my Olympus E-PL3. Recently, I have been mainly using a 4" wide-angle port, as it fits both the 12-50mm (multipurpose) and the 60mm (macro!) lenses as well as the 9-18mm (wide-angle) lens I originally bought it for. When using it with these newer lens, I wanted to add wet diopter. Recently, Nauticam came out with a product for this purpose (http://uw-foto.ch/im...ages/2484_1.jpg) , but I felt that shelling 220$ was a bit too much. Designing & printing my own solution was much more fun. The final product is completely made of ABS, except for a single 72-67 step-down ring that provided the filter thread. Unlike the commercial solution, the "base" is not held by screws, but rather by a twist mechanism that locks it into place. It is slightly bulkier than the metal version, but works well. The ABS construction was surprisingly solid, and unlike the metal flip ring (which is heavy) this gadget has slightly positive buoyancy. All by all, after about 12 dives with it I am very happy. The design can be found here - 67mm frame holder for Nauticam 4 inch wide angle port by nirfriedman - Thingiverse If there is interest I can also upload it to shapeways and then you could order the printed version directly. Happy Diving, Nir 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FanchGadjo 16 Posted January 4, 2013 Great use of 3D printing ! Congratulations ! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oskar 6 Posted January 9, 2013 That's a great DYI, good work! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nudibranco 28 Posted January 9, 2013 Nir, great 3d printing work!! All these adapters are way too expensive indeed. I am actually using the same port on my OM5/Nautican setup but seldom using it with the 9-18mm lens since I do not get nice viz as much as I should. So I was hoping also to attach a wet macro lens like you did and potentially using a larger Dyron 77mm which would reduce the vignetting and get me closer somewhat to my subjects UW at 18mm focal length. Maybe the 67mm thread is good enough for the 18mm focal. Is the 9-18mm lens useable with the 4" port, your adapter and the macro wet lens (inon 165 I believe)???? Andrea Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeVeitch 0 Posted January 9, 2013 very nice! Great thinking Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ProfF 12 Posted January 9, 2013 I am actually using the same port on my OM5/Nautican setup but seldom using it with the 9-18mm lens since I do not get nice viz as much as I should. So I was hoping also to attach a wet macro lens like you did and potentially using a larger Dyron 77mm which would reduce the vignetting and get me closer somewhat to my subjects UW at 18mm focal length. Maybe the 67mm thread is good enough for the 18mm focal. Is the 9-18mm lens useable with the 4" port, your adapter and the macro wet lens (inon 165 I believe)???? Andrea, Frankly, I didn't try the combination of the 9-18 and the diopter together. I used this setup with the 12-50 and the 60 and in both cases it was useful. However, the 67mm does cause vignetting when I zoom the 12-50 to the wide side. So I assume it will also do that at 18mm. I am not sure why you would want to add diopter to 9-18, W/A lenses focus very close. I took pictures of a fish "kissing" the dome and the lips were sharp... Nir Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nudibranco 28 Posted January 10, 2013 Hello Nir, the reason I am asking is because the 9mm is very useful UW but the 18mm is a middle ground that I could use if I could get close enough and I can't. It will not focus closer than 10 or 15 cm from the dome (focus distance from sensor is stated at 25cm). But if I had a diopter in front of it (at 18mm ... not 12mm) I could use the combination for some closer shots. I would try it myself but I do not have an adapter like yours or a diopter lens like yours. Maybe if you find out at what focal length the 12-50 lens start vignetting UW it will give me an idea... Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmauricio 24 Posted January 10, 2013 Out of curiosity. How much does this adapter cost to build via 3D printing? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ProfF 12 Posted January 10, 2013 (edited) Out of curiosity. How much does this adapter cost to build via 3D printing? Depends on how you count. For me the cost was around 10-20$ raw materials for the final print (didn't calculate the exact weight) + ~3 trial prints (different parts at different stages). This is with my own printer (PP3DP Up!). If you go to a company such as Shapeways will cost you more (my guess ~50-70$). I will try to upload the design to Shapeways to get a more informed price. Update: after loading to shapeways, the total for this design is 166$ + shipping. So, my guesstimate was a bit on the low side. Edited January 10, 2013 by ProfF Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmauricio 24 Posted January 11, 2013 Interesting. thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rtrski 20 Posted February 11, 2013 Very nice job. Are the hinging rings printed separately and glued on to the main holder? I only ask because with my printer the 'within layer' strength is far greater than the 'between layer' strength, so any circular holes are best printed with the axis vertical to prevent them fracturing. You do some great engineering! My soon to be posted Ringflash looks hideous by comparison. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ProfF 12 Posted February 14, 2013 Very nice job. Are the hinging rings printed separately and glued on to the main holder? I only ask because with my printer the 'within layer' strength is far greater than the 'between layer' strength, so any circular holes are best printed with the axis vertical to prevent them fracturing. Thanks. The hinge rings are printed with the main holder. My printer can do this type of prints without problems (it prints removable support structure). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nudibranco 28 Posted February 14, 2013 Hello Nir, the reason I am asking is because the 9mm is very useful UW but the 18mm is a middle ground that I could use if I could get close enough and I can't. It will not focus closer than 10 or 15 cm from the dome (focus distance from sensor is stated at 25cm). But if I had a diopter in front of it (at 18mm ... not 12mm) I could use the combination for some closer shots. I would try it myself but I do not have an adapter like yours or a diopter lens like yours. Maybe if you find out at what focal length the 12-50 lens start vignetting UW it will give me an idea... Thanks! I did try to see where it vignettes with a 67mm ring and the reality is that with 18mm still vignettes badly (and that's without a lens just the 67mm frame!!). It should not vignette from about 25mm and up. I have not tried as I have to disassemble the 12-50mm from the Nauticam gear (always afraid to lose all those little screws). The issue is that the glass port sits way past the lens. Not sure why they designed it like that (maybe designed for Sony lens first?) or just because the center of focus is optimal at that distance, but the 9-18mm lens is back almost 2cm from the glass... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
makar0n 69 Posted April 5, 2017 (edited) now one like this for the 6" port and i will marry you great design! Edited April 5, 2017 by makar0n Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
