New Housing "Airlock" Vacuum from Backscatter

[andy_deitsch 17]

I'd recommend a hand pump. One less thing to charge and break down out in the field. I bought one from an autoparts store - they are typically used to bleed brakes. I have found that the ones sold in the UK under the name minivac are lighter than the ones I've found in the US under the name mityvac. I've had both and prefer minivac's.

[KirkD 7]

 

We have thought about the possibility to create such a product however there are some roadblocks to doing so. The vacuum connector must have an air passageway into the housing and most bulkhead connections are sealed. The second problem is the bulk of having the bulkhead extension and the vacuum connector in one part.

 

We have a couple of non-bulkhead options that have been implemented with our customers. One is to add a small opening (only 11/32”) to the housing. Another is to replace an unused control with the vacuum connector. We currently have a vacuum connector that fits an unused control location in an ikelite housing and are willing to develop a similar solution for other housings upon request.

I like that concept. I never us the flash compensation on my housing. I have an Aquatica. I know from servicing my housing, that all of the rotating shafts are ge same size.

 

Kirk

[blibecap 29]

Hi Kirk

Lets take this off line. Send me a email with your contact info and I will get back to you asap.

Bill

[JimSwims 31]

A buddy of mine has this one- http://www.vividhousings.com/leak-sentinel.php on his housing.

 

When I look at the images of the Backscatter unit I it seems to stick out a long way. I wouldn't want anything attached

to a bulkhead to potentially catch on anything. I think I prefer the Vivid or similar design, much more compact.

 

Cheers,

Jim.

[KirkD 7]

A buddy of mine has this one- http://www.vividhousings.com/leak-sentinel.php on his housing.

 

When I look at the images of the Backscatter unit I it seems to stick out a long way. I wouldn't want anything attached

to a bulkhead to potentially catch on anything. I think I prefer the Vivid or similar design, much more compact.

 

Cheers,

Jim.

Link above does not work. I found it at:

 

http://www.vividhousings.com/custom-fit-leak-sentinel.php

 

Kirk

Edited March 3, 2013 by KirkD

[davichin 18]

My only issue with this is that I have to give up on a strobe bulkhead. Would be nice if someone made one that did double duty.

 

Hello Jeff, I see you have subtronics as well as inons. I use only one bulkhead for both kind of strobes optically and I have one useless bulkhead (plus the the third Hugycheck bulkhead):

I use this double optical cord piece on the housing:

 

 

and I use it for two sea&seas. When I use my Novas, I go: this piece - short opticalcord - triggerfish slave - Y cord - Novas.

This way you would have an spare bulkhead, although I understand it can be odd...

[John Bantin 101]

I recommend this or any similar system to all underwater photographers. I hate seeing anyone flood their camera. It reminds me of the day I flooded one. I still bear the scars.

[E_viking 30]

After looking in the Pictures on the the new issue of UW Photo mag.

The electronic version seems to have the electronics integrated on top of the Bulkhead.

 

/Erik

[E_viking 30]

Link above does not work. I found it at:

 

http://www.vividhousings.com/custom-fit-leak-sentinel.php

 

Kirk

 

 

The solution from Vivid Housing looks pretty nice and cheap as well.

[ErolE 3]

KIrk,

Did backscatter give an indication of price on electronic version?

 

 

 

 

I come from a background as a professional marine electonics engineer, amongst other things, and it is standard practice to vacumm check electonics pods prior to submergtion. I am suprised the uw photography industry has taken so long to cotton on to this. It is so cheap and easy that the concept of essetially destruction testing your seal integrity (ie seals fails, you flood your housing) should be consigned to history. As John points out it is only a matter of time before you make a mistake.

 

In fact the reason my first housing was a Hugyfot was based on the provision of a Hugycheck system. However I am now playing with an old Seacam system (Hugyfot never got around to producing a 1d4 housing) and I am not comfortable without the provision of this system. It is a shame that more housing manufatcurers aren t producing these systems.

 

Erol

Edited March 4, 2013 by ErolE

[Alex_Mustard 0]

I've never flooded an SLR (film or digital), but I have a vacuum system on my Subal (similar to the housing sentry) and I certainly appreciate the ability to double check all is OK.

 

Now I just need one for my strobes, torches and lights! Despite never having had a housing flood - I have had two manufacturer sealed SOLAs flood recently and a manufacturer sealed Nauticam viewfinder go too. Fortunately the Nauticam viewfinder was repairable in the field and did another 40 dives on that trip without problems.

 

So I am not sure I need a vacuum check for my work - but I do for manufacturer sealed units!

 

Alex

[davichin 18]

I think the manual version would benefit if there was a small barometer that could be glued inside the housing and seen through the screen or top windows. This would also give constant information...

[Rui_Guerra 6]

Alex,

 

What is exactly the vacumm system that you have in your Subal?

 

I also never flooded a housing in almost 20 years of underwater photography, but I believe that the more I dive the higher are the chances for a flooding due to protographer error. And sice I'm a long time Subal user, I'm curious about the system you have in your Subal...

 

Thanks!

[Alex_Mustard 0]

Mine was made by a friend - but uses the same parts as the housing sentry and also the ones David from Scubacam in Singapore makes. Obviously, made by a friend is cheaper! But it sticks out further (although is protected by the handle). I can easily move it between housings if I want.

 

Photos of it here:

http://wetpixel.com/articles/review-and-field-notes-subal-nd4/

 

I'd probably go with the Backscatter one if I was buying now - as it looks neater.

 

There are two other advantages of using a vacuum on a housing, which are worth mentioning. First, the slight negative pressure acts a port lock. Second, if you have a problem with a button not working at depth - you can pump out the housing and reproduce the fault on the surface where it is much easier to fix.

 

Alex

[Ronyx 6]

I just spoke to the Backscatter folks and they are sold out. They are expecting to have new stock by the end of the month. I also asked about the electronic version and the estimate was for another month or so after this next batch of manual versions.

[E_viking 30]

How do you release the Vacuum? Sliding down the Outer part ( the one that looks moveable).

Then my assumption is that the Block-off plug is there to prevent it from sliding down.

Then I would understand the naming One-way valve!

 

Have I guessed it correctly???

 

/Erik

[blibecap 29]

Erik

You must connect the vacuum pump to release the vacuum in the housing. The block off plug is used to prevent water from getting inside the valve. It is not really a one way valve as air can flow in both directions with the input fitting installed. It is a self sealing valve that seals when you remove the input fitting. The movalable part allows the input fitting to be installed and removed. You might check out our FAQ page for more details.

[E_viking 30]

Bill,

Thanks for the info.

Until how deep does it go?

 

/Erik

[blibecap 29]

i don't understand the question

[E_viking 30]

Sorry.

My question is which depth rating the Valve has?

I assume that it is 60m or more.

[blibecap 29]

If you dive without the plug / cap in place the spring inside the valve will protect you to a depth of about 150 feet or 80 PSI.

 

If you have the cap in place The seal of each fitting is rated at 4000 PSIG @ 70 °F / 275 BAR @ 21 °C which is equivalent to being at a depth of 9000 feet.

 

I will update our F.A.Q. page http://www.uwcamerastuff.com/housing_sentry_faq.htm to show this information.

Edited March 4, 2013 by blibecap

[E_viking 30]

Thanks for the info!

Ok, that is much better than I thought!

[KirkD 7]

KIrk,

Did backscatter give an indication of price on electronic version?

 

 

Erol

I called backscatter and spoke with someone who said it would probably $100 over the manual version. Which does seem to be a bad price. Hopefully that is correct.

[ChrigelKarrer 52]

All newer Hugyfot housings come with their electronic Hugycheck vacum leak tester,

made of a red and green LED blinking green if the vacuum inside is good and a additional electronic leak detector

beeping if water is inside the housing.

I really love this additional safety margin to avoid a disaster flooding my camera and i am aware that it would be

mostly my fault if there would be a leak but i like it if the housing is adverting me - and did several times - if there is a leak.

This new system looks nice and would be a great thing to add on a housing not equpped with a vacuum leak tester.

I strongly recommend to get the electronic version as the blinking LED's will advert you if there should be a leak,
even/especially under water.
I usually load my camera/housing in the evening before and control the blinking LED's in the morning and again before i start the dive.

Chris

[Glasseye Snapper 47]

... snip ...

 

 

There are two other advantages of using a vacuum on a housing, which are worth mentioning. First, the slight negative pressure acts a port lock. Second, if you have a problem with a button not working at depth - you can pump out the housing and reproduce the fault on the surface where it is much easier to fix.

 

Alex

 

I was wondering if there would also be the additional advantage of less condensation risk. Lower pressure means lower partial pressure of water vapour, unless the pressure drop is too small to be significant.

 

Bart