Jump to content
Jock

Flooded Z240 (and how it could be saved temporarily)

Recommended Posts

Last week I flooded my Inon Z240 with salt water. It was pure stupidity, I obviously did not grease the O-ring of the battery compartment properly, so it was twisted a bit when I tightened the cap, just enough to let water in. During the dive the strobe fired correctly, but showed some strange behaviour (target light being off for a couple of seconds after a flash, at the end of the dive target light still on after shutting off the strobe). When I came back to the dive center I could see the twist in the O-ring (must admit I could have seen it before, but ...), so I knew what had happened.

 

When I opened the battery compartment the infamous black liquid came out, and the batteries were heavily corroded. Another diver at the resort had some experience with such kinds of floodings. He washed the battery compartment, cleaned and dried it. After that the strobe was not functioning, but it was not completely dead. When turning on, the target light was shining, and there was a "crackled" sound as if the capacitor was was getting some charge, but it did not load completely. Seems that some gas that had built up during the battery corrosion pushed water or toxic broth into the strobe compartment, or the battery compartment is not sealed against the inside.

 

I had a S&S backup strobe, so I let the Inon alone for that night and put it into the (hot) compressor room. Next morning I tried again, same behaviour. I saw that there are some tiny screws in the front of the strobe. I removed them and could lift the front plate of the strobe (I had to pull a bit to lift it off the o-ring seal. If you ever have to do so, don't use excessive force, since the onboard sensor sits in the plate and is wired). I let it rest for twelve hours in the air-conditioned camera room, hoping that all water/humidity inside the strobe would dry. Guess what - after I reassembled the front plate the strobe worked perfectly again up to the end of my trip! Of course I will let it have serviced now.

This is just an info that not necessarily everything is lost once there is water inside the strobe compartment, but of course I sincerely hope that no one will never have to make use of this knowledge for him-/herself or some fellow divers!

 

Jock

 

p.s.: I just found out that a dealer in Germany offers an O-ring which is placed inside the top of the battery cap for additional safety. Costs just a few Euros, but that would have been a good investment...

 

p.p.s.: Does anybody have an Inon repair or service manual? Would have been a great help if I coud have opened the strobe completely, which I did not dare to do in fear of ruining sensitive parts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Could you send a link to the extra O-ring? I am in the USA and not sure where to start looking because every Inon strobe comes with an extra O-ring.

 

You are right in that the battery compartment is not sealed from the electronics. The capacitor can fry at any time. Inon Customer Service will say you over heated the strobe by firing it too often. The manual says you can fire only every 30 seconds. (Yeah, right!??!) Then they will offer to sell you one at a discount (their cost).

 

I carry an extra stobe, housing, and camera on long trips.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the same issue with one of my Z-240, but due a hair crack in the battery compartment cap.

There is no condensation inside the strobe visible, but as everybody tell me that it is too expensive to have it repaired i may give your trick a try.

Thanks for posting!

Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Could you send a link to the extra O-ring? I am in the USA and not sure where to start looking because every Inon strobe comes with an extra O-ring.

 

Looks like they're marketed under the H2O Photo Tools brand according to a Dive Show 2012 article.

http://wetpixel.com/articles/show-report-the-dive-show-2012

 

I see Reef Photo is selling the o-ring and knobs mentioned in the article:

http://reefphoto.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=135_85&products_id=6168

 

HTH

Edited by mcgowman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That extra O-ring is great!

It still doesn't help if the battery cap has a small crack though.

 

/Erik

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One thing that I have found that has been invaluable to saving my electronics is a can of aerosol pc board cleaner. I have saved flooded electronics several times with this stuff. The can I have has a die electric grease in it to prevent corrosion so a good spraying is all that is needed. Has worked great on fixing my flooded hand grips on amphibico phenom housing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

JFS, can you please provide a link to the product you're talking about? Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the product I use here in Cozumel....http://www.pcdigital.com.mx/limpiador-lubricante-silicon-silimex-silijet-eplus-p-9184.html

 

In the USA , you should be able to easily get something at any electronic parts store ( radio shack?). It would be something like this stuff

http://www.shopwechem.com/products/circuit-wash-aerosol__circuit-spc-wash.aspx

 

its just an aerosol contact cleaner for pc boards .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone know if there is an inherent problem with battery cap cracking? I am very surprised that Inon hasn't sealed the battery compartment from the guts like Ikelite does. That would be a significant value add for them. This way we could carry a spare cap or two and if there was a flood, it's an easy fix and won't ruin a trip.

Edited by Kelpfish

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

has anyone used the o-ring?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The extra O-ring works fine.

 

/Erik

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sponsors

Advertisements



×
×
  • Create New...