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PeteAtkinson

Leak Sentinel from Vivid Housings

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I'm still curious as to whether people travel with the unit attached or set it up when they arrive on location.

Our's is permanently attached. If it's fitted corretlty, seated properly and sealed, why remove it? (We do strip down the housing completely to service all o-rings and seals at regular intervals, but that's a maintenance task. not a set up thing)

Edited by Stuart Keasley

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Ours stay permanently on two Subals. After two week long trips, I remove the circuit boards and clean/lube the 'O' rings and pitch the battery. I put a new new battery in at start of next trip.

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When I fly I have the housing shut but not seal. Instead of removing the orings I loosen the bulkhead cap that is why I don't have it installed when traveling.

The leak sentinel is an electronic device that may fail or run out of battery I prefer to test the battery prior to installing it once at location.

I have had cases of CR2032 batteries running dry much earlier than the supposed life as that depends on the time they have been on the shelves.

As it is not advised to dive with it if not pressurized I always take the housing protective cap with me.

During the trip I then leave it alone

At the end of the trip I inspect it like all other parts and follow similar procedure as okuma

 

It is a matter of preferences

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Mine is permanently installed in the microphone port of my Aquatica AD7000. I install a new battery before every trip. On average a battery lasts about 10 days on a liveaboard trip. My unit is on most of the time. I prep my housing the night before and leave it pumped down all night. The green light greets me each morning. I carry 3-4 extra batteries with me.

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Another vote of thanks to Miso at Vivid - I got my Leak Sentinel this week and installed it this morning on a Nauticam EM-5 housing in less than 5 minutes. First test went without a hitch. I am very happy with the added peace of mind this will provide.

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Just coming back from a 2 week trip to Maldives using the Leak Sentinel V3 on the Na-EM5.

Experience with minor flaws had been outstanding. It was giving me a lot of confidence pre and during diving the usual maintain, dip and hope methods never could achieve.

Some recommendation or tips for those of you considering I can make.

Putting under pressure on in AC cooled hotel rooms and then going out into the hot can easily generate false positives. So after the first day I brought the pump to the diving vessel and applied pressure around 20 minutes before diving while travelling to the dive site. Then shortly before jumping I checked the status. This way I never had a false alarm.

When releasing under pressure you need to be VERY carefull, especially when diving salt water, the pressure valve and its surroundings is dry as well as your fingers. The electronic board is just underneath the valve. It happened to me that one tiny drop got sucked in with the air, This caused the sentinel to not work anymore. To repair (and I would not necesarily recommend the same) I opened the Sentienl housing, took out the circuit board, removed the battery, dripped the board into drinking water for about half an hour to loosen the corrosion (shown as white markings at the soldering points) and then used a tooth brush to carefully clean the remaining dirt. Finally I dried it in the sun before puzzling everything together again. After the device was back to working properly but I think I just had been lucky in this case.

If the vendor reads this I would recommend to use an electronics varnish leaving out the tiny sensor to prevent the same in future versions.

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Cool, it would be great to see some pictures of the installed detector from one of you EM-5 guys, thanks! Im contemplating getting one myself for peace of mind. It seems to me that because the acrylic in the middle, it could sheer off if hit badly, right? What is keeping the "sandwiched" contruction together?

 

Cheers/O

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Preparing the housing on a dhoni doesn't sound exciting. Would have rather done it outside your room in the shade. Afterward if you kept the housing under a cool wet towel you should be ok. Also you should dry the housing thoroughly before opening it. You can get a nozzle to go into your regulator low pressure inflator and you have your drying tool with you at all times

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I'm still curious as to whether people travel with the unit attached or set it up when they arrive on location.

 

I eventually decided to not attach the unit unti I was at location. The reason why is that I had the housing in my carry on and the Leak Sentinel protrudes awkwardly from the housing on the NA-RX100ii. More to the point, I didn't have room for the pump in my carry on anyway.

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Another vote of thanks to Miso at Vivid - I got my Leak Sentinel this week and installed it this morning on a Nauticam EM-5 housing in less than 5 minutes. First test went without a hitch. I am very happy with the added peace of mind this will provide.

Hi there I have the EM-5 housing & have been looking at the Leak Sentinel, could you tell me how you install it on the housing as don't have a clue ! thanks Sam

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Sam - Get the version for the accessory port (M16 mount), which is at the top of the housing next to the zoom knob. Unscrew the plug with a coin. Put a little silicon grease on the o-ring. Screw in the Leak Sentinel. It couldn't be easier.

 

Oskar - Installed, it looks exactly like the second photo on page 1 of this thread. See also the first photo on page 1 of this thread for construction details. I don't think you need to worry about "shearing" anything

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Just coming back from a 2 week trip to Maldives using the Leak Sentinel V3 on the Na-EM5.

Experience with minor flaws had been outstanding. It was giving me a lot of confidence pre and during diving the usual maintain, dip and hope methods never could achieve.

Some recommendation or tips for those of you considering I can make.

Putting under pressure on in AC cooled hotel rooms and then going out into the hot can easily generate false positives. So after the first day I brought the pump to the diving vessel and applied pressure around 20 minutes before diving while travelling to the dive site. Then shortly before jumping I checked the status. This way I never had a false alarm.

 

I'd still kit up in an AC room, regardless of the chance of false positives. For a start, it's (hopefully!) a nice quiet environment, so a good place to focus in what you're doing, the AC will also dry out the air in the room and so reduce likelihood of condensation.

 

So for me, whilst they're annoying, I'd rather take the hit on a false negative then potentially introducing issues by changing my kitting up procedure in an attempt to avoid them.

When releasing under pressure you need to be VERY carefull, especially when diving salt water, the pressure valve and its surroundings is dry as well as your fingers. The electronic board is just underneath the valve. It happened to me that one tiny drop got sucked in with the air, This caused the sentinel to not work anymore. To repair (and I would not necesarily recommend the same) I opened the Sentienl housing, took out the circuit board, removed the battery, dripped the board into drinking water for about half an hour to loosen the corrosion (shown as white markings at the soldering points) and then used a tooth brush to carefully clean the remaining dirt. Finally I dried it in the sun before puzzling everything together again. After the device was back to working properly but I think I just had been lucky in this case.

If the vendor reads this I would recommend to use an electronics varnish leaving out the tiny sensor to prevent the same in future versions.

Thanks for the tip, I'll keep an eye out for that!

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Just to clarify:

I do not recommend or would do the preparation of the housing itself in any other environment then a quiet and dry place where you can put the required attention on maintaining O-Rings etc.

The only thing I have "outsourced" was the depresurization of the housing - so when the equipment has reached ambient temperature.

As the housing is closed and setup no outside humid air can get inside - so the risk of condensation is minimal. To be sure I usually place a pack of silica-gel below the camera.

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Just to clarify:

I do not recommend or would do the preparation of the housing itself in any other environment then a quiet and dry place where you can put the required attention on maintaining O-Rings etc.

The only thing I have "outsourced" was the depresurization of the housing - so when the equipment has reached ambient temperature.

As the housing is closed and setup no outside humid air can get inside - so the risk of condensation is minimal. To be sure I usually place a pack of silica-gel below the camera.

Ah, understood, sorry about the misunderstanding...

 

Just as a suggestion, you could still de-pressurise in the room, then give it a final pump or two once the temperature has raised. The end result is the same, it just gives you the opportunity to sort any problems/leaks that may pop up whilst you're still in the room.

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Hi,

I use the leak sentinel V3 in a split version since April 2014. Electronic installed inside the housing & vacccum valve and housing adapter separate ( see attached pictures). Processing my order and enquiries were managed very professional by Miso. I installed the system myself. From my point of view easy if you have some technical background. I tested the system in may 2014 for approx. 60 dives in Indonesia. System worked flawless without any technical problems. Battery live approx. 150 hours (first replace after 15 days with 10-12h in use). There are only two small issues from my side:

1. Contact corrosion due to stainless steel adapter. During Operation salt crystal built up on the passage between the stainless adapter and the Aluminium vaccum valve The knurl on the aluminium valve is slightly affected. I discussed the corrosion problem prior to purchase with Miso and he might consider to change the adapter material to aluminium in future.
2. Led is very small and nearly invisible in bright sunlight, even the first couple of meter underwater. I didn`t had that on my old Hugyscheck as they use bigger LED

But anyway I`m quiet happy with the system.

Best regards

Markus

post-42043-0-50524100-1403419247_thumb.jpg

post-42043-0-91049700-1403419249_thumb.jpg

post-42043-0-13494200-1403419287_thumb.jpg

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I've bought it for my NA EM-5 housing and installed it myself. I have dived it a week in arctic conditions (really, but arctic summer!).

 

It has worked great so far. Easy to install and no battery changes so far. No problem in cold water conditions 4-5 degrees centigrade. I would recommend it to anyone so far.

 

My eyes are tricked by the color though, the intense green light color conditions in the waters I was diving made the green flash LED seem orange. For the next version I would recommend a distinctly different flash pattern so one does not have to think about the color.

 

Cheers

/O

 

 

Sam - Get the version for the accessory port (M16 mount), which is at the top of the housing next to the zoom knob. Unscrew the plug with a coin. Put a little silicon grease on the o-ring. Screw in the Leak Sentinel. It couldn't be easier.

 

Oskar - Installed, it looks exactly like the second photo on page 1 of this thread. See also the first photo on page 1 of this thread for construction details. I don't think you need to worry about "shearing" anything

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I have a crazy issue with my leak sentinel on a Nauticam housing for Olympus OM-D E-M5.

 

My camera malfunctions when pumping the pressure down to green flashing.

 

See my thread here for details: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=53344

 

This seems crazy to me, do i have the only pressure sensitive E-M5, is this a result of some too lose buttons?

 

 

Any ideas?

 

Cheers/O

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Is it possible you have a slight misalignment of the camera in the housing? I've found that to be the usual reason for crazy camera behaviour. Other than excess margaritas of course :pardon:

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Has anyone found problems with galvanic corrosion using the stainless steel Vivid in an aluminium housing? Is a spot of silicone grease enough - as troporobo suggests - or do you need some PTFE tape?

 

Just wondered. I've got my Vivid installed and tested but it hasn't got wet yet.

 

Thanks!

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I have done now around 50 dives with it and I have noticed nothing. I don't leave the housing in the rinse tank and I take it off at the end of the trip and rinse it with the normal bulkhead cap

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I would think that you would not get corrosion with two dissimilar metals if they are protected from salt water with an o-ring.

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Have used my Mk3 version on about 300 dives. It has worked perfectly. I leave it installed for a two week trip and for longer periods in the UK when diving weekends. No corrosion at all Tim. Housing is aluminium.

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Many thanks, Jim and eyu - that's very helpful.

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