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onewolf

Fisheye lens options for RX100/Nauticam?

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So I did try out the UWL-04 in the pool this weekend. Unfortunately the sun shade is noticeable in every shot unless I zoom in to 35mm. I guess its not that big of a deal but I just have to remember to zoom before I start taking shots. Any reason its a bad idea to take all my fisheye shots slightly zoomed in? I'll have to admit the shots were disappointing but the pool was very cloudy and was just shocked so the water clarity for a pool was terrible.

 

Thanks,

Scott

Edited by sfaatz

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By zooming in your lens, you loose some F-stop, and the camera is more sensitive to shake. How about just take the photo at the wides, and crop out during processing?

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I could do that but the reason I prefer to not do that is I don't want to post-process every picture I post online. Most of the pics I post are "good enough" without Photoshop so I just post them as-is. I take my really good shots from a trip (usually just a handful) and post process those. Maybe there is a automated or batch way to do this but I am still pretty new to post-processing too.

 

Scott

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Don't you have to do at least some post processing to decrease the file size you are posting on line? A quick crop while you are there is pretty ready. Or are you using some posting method that resizes for you?

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No. I just post the jpeg right from the camera. Some sights like FB resize the images automatically. I do know that Photoshop can do a batch resize though. I have used it in the past when I was posting to a site that had a file size limit.

 

Scott

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I believe Scott is talking about the lens hood showing in his images.

Scott, did you try rotating the lens hood to see if there is a position where it doesn't show? If a lot of the hood is showing it may even be 90 degrees out of place . And, as Interceptor says , sample images would be helpful.

Edited by aviddiver.her

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I believe Scott is talking about the lens hood showing in his images.

Scott, did you try rotating the lens hood to see if there is a position where it doesn't show? If a lot of the hood is showing it may even be 90 degrees out of place . And, as Interceptor says , sample images would be helpful.

He is talking about the sun shade. Does that mean the lens hood or flare or ghost from the sun?

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Sorry. Here are a couple shots taken with the fisheye lens. The turtle was taken zoomed out and you can see the sun shade on the left side. I did rotate the sun shade 90 deg and 180 deg. It must be slightly out of round because the other side of the image was effected when it was rotated. This image is about average, some of them depending on the lighting show darkness on the other edges as well. Maybe this is something else? Not sure.

 

The picture of my daughter was taken zoomed in one click. No issue there.

 

Scott

post-45471-0-29492500-1390400201_thumb.jpg

post-45471-0-33584300-1390400215_thumb.jpg

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What it looks like is that the lens basically has vignette. Is quite common that the camera lens or the housing have small tolerances so the black bar comes more on one side.

 

However I am surprised as this lens is not as wide. Probably the rear element is a tad too short for the RX100 front lens

 

I have tried my Inon UFL165AD with the RX100 Mark I and though I had to zoom to 34mm I had no fringing as the lens quality is spectacular however from those images I can't really say if zooming will introduce aberrations or not.

 

The best is to shoot a test slate in the bathtub as I do and check the corners

 

In general it would seem that lenses with larger rear element like the UWL-H100 vignette less

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Scott, did I understand you correctly that the same vignette we see in the turtle shot was on the opposite side when you rotated the lens hood (sun shield) 180 degrees?

Edited by aviddiver.her

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Scott, did I understand you correctly that the same vignette we see in the turtle shot was on the opposite side when you rotated the lens hood (sun shield) 180 degrees?

Correct. It was definitely from the sun shade. I played around with it again last night and I can get it to the point where it doesn't show in the pics but not sure how long that is going to last bumping it around on the boat, dive, etc.

 

 

The 4 corners still seem to exhibit darkening in most shots (this was just in a bath tub though) which I did not get on my S95 setup. Maybe this was a better lens for the S95 then it is for the Sony?

 

 

Scott

 

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The Sony lens is larger so you have more vignetting. You will have to see how it performs in salt water. A lens with a larger rear aperture would work better. Depending in the quality of the glass zooming should not be a major issue

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Hi Interceptor,

 

I read that you mentioned the UWL-10028AD works without vignetting, do you suppose it will work with the Nauticam RX100 II housing?

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You need the fix adapter for AD mount. That lens won't vignette in the basic version but I believe it will have a tiny bit with the optional dome on as the lens is wider than the UWL-H100

 

However once you commit to the AD lens route you need to take into account that the close up lenses vignette from wide to medium and with two stacked you can only work at tele end

Not a big issue but thought of letting you know

Edited by Interceptor121
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Thanks Interceptor,

 

It's hard to find a wide for the xz1 that can be used on the more current cameras (type 1 vs type 2 etc). Since im eye-ing the rx100 II, I can save some cash by using my uwl-100.

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UWL-100 M67

 

Thanks Interceptor,

 

It's hard to find a wide for the xz1 that can be used on the more current cameras (type 1 vs type 2 etc). Since im eye-ing the rx100 II, I can save some cash by using my uwl-100.

Do you have the M67 or 28AD version?

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I'd really like to know where you purchased the bayonet mountings for the RX100 wet lenses. I have looked all over and can't find them. I have the Aquatica +5 Close up lens and the INON UWL-H100 28M67 Type2 Wide Conversion Lens. Also can you get lens holders that attach to the strobe arms for the bayonet mounted lenses? I'd appreciate the help. It is a pain to attach and detach without bayonet attachments.

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You have to buy the LD lens option or the AD lens.

The UWL-H100 28M67 can be converted into bayonet using a service part. Then you need an LD bayonet adapter for the housing. Nauticam and Fix sell it.

Fix is hard to find but you can try asking reefphoto

This is the nauticam

http://reefphoto.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=117_87&products_id=5611

You can then convert your close up lens using this part

http://reefphoto.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=117_87&products_id=5086

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