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ksporry

Stability Issues with setup

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Hi Guys,

I recently got the attached setup for my underwater camera (Olympus camera, Nauticam housing and Z240 strobes).
With this configuration I noticed that the handle bars are quite unstable for this setup. As such I am considering adding a bracket of some sort on the top of the two handle bars above the housing to add stiffness to the construction.
Does anyone know of a bracket for this nauticam setup (the housing and arms are nauticam) that would do the trick? Would I need to make one myself?

As a secondary question, on land, gravity makes the setup heavy, especially with the strobes apart as in the image. On land this requires the clamps to be tightened quite a bit, to the point that it becomes very hard to adjust the position of the arms. Would this be resolved if I attached the floating arms to the strobes (i.e. swap the arms) making the strobes more floating? Is there another way? (I was told that the dome on this camera makes the housing quite buoyant, which implies that floating arms close to the body is not required, but floating arms close to the strobes may be appreciated...).

Any advice will be appreciated!

Thanks!
K

 

PS the stability problem is very similar to the topic described in the following link, except that the solution cannot be implemented wih hthis housing as it only has one ball mount on the housing, not 2

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42507

 

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Something like THIS perhaps?

 

I have seen folks put 3 way clamps on the handle balls and run an extra arm between the handle balls, but that may interfere with your focus light mounting.

 

Cheers,

Jim.

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I think most of us have similar problems when using long arms, the ball clamps are unlikely to hold the strobes adequately out of the water when extended; they're not designed to do it. I position the strobes right against the handles with the arms vertical or sloping slightly inward and lock them off tight for carrying and in the boat, then adjust them for easy movement when in the water. Moving the ball joints with the joints screwed down really tight can cause galling of the aluminium clamp seat faces - don't do it.
1-1/4" dia balls have better holding but this means replacing the whole set up anyway.
The rope handle in your linked post can just as easily be put between the tray handles.

Arm buoyancy is probably better arranged at the strobe end but with your current set up, you don't have much choice. The arm lengths are arranged with the first arm shorter such that the strobes can come right up to the port, if you swap them over this will become more difficult; plus it won't fold for transport as above.

I've never owned a Nauticam housing but if you are concerned, try a triple clamp on each handle ball and add a horizontal arm linking between them. This can be used for carrying, focus light etc can also be mounted onto this arm. Before you do this though, think about freedom of movement of the strobe arm joint at the triple clamp. I had such a set up at one time but binned it after a few dives because it prevented swinging the short arm inward.

 

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I realised this afternoon that the 3-way clamps could do what I want. I'll explore that possibility. It may not seem necessary in water, but forces are still forces, and I feel more comfortable with some stiffness. eliminates vibrations too...

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Here's one way to do it:

 

 

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Basically it adds a cross bar using the Nauticam multi purpose clamp. This is a GH3 with the large Keldan Luna 8 lights, plus a monitor on top of the crossbar. Very stable… check out my video below that I shot with this this setup. Let me know if you want any more details about how to set this up.

 

In regard to your question about needing to tighten the clamps on land, one way to deal with this is to use a lanyard at the top of the triangle, rather than lower. The arms then carry much less weight when you are carrying the rig. The type of clamp you use can also help you in this regard.

 

GH3 video:

 

[Edit]: Bummer that it doesn't come up in HD and is so small… any options to control the size/quality ala the Vimeo embed code?

Edited by Cp
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The bigger Nauticam housings have plates to fix the top of the handles to the housing, but I don't know if yours has them. They also have two threaded sockets for ball joints. It looks to me as if the Olympus housing just isn't meant for long arms, which is OK, as, except in murky water, long arms don't really help.

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Hi,

 

why not keep it super-simple? - This setup has been working for me for many years, even with my heavyweight NikonosRS-Zoom-IkeSS200!

 

The OM-D and the Inons are so lightweight - absolutely no problems during the 60+ dives I have been using it up to today. And I personally do not feel that the rig in itself is unstable. Maybe you need to apply some more force when tightening the screws!!! :laugh: ( But remember: After "very tight" comes "very loose"...)

 

And, by the way, a very simple solution, cost about 2 US-$, for the replacement of the unusable grey Nauticam port protection: A 77mm lens cap from ebay.

 

Greetings,

 

Jock

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