Viz'art 24 Posted February 27, 2014 Anybody know what kind of strobe connections the Aquatica housing will have for the E-M1? It will accept the popular "off the shelves" optical sync cord with straight tip (as found on Inon strobes) and with angled plugs (as found on the Sea & Sea and Olympus Strobes), the option of having a Nikonos type bulkhead strobe connector is also being offered. From this connection you can run two strobes with a dual sync cord Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coroander 16 Posted February 27, 2014 (edited) Nauticam has a 4" curved port for the Olympus 9-18 mm lens, but Aquatica just announced their port for this lens, which is a much larger 8" dome port. What matters is the optical radius of the port, the 4" Nauticam semi-dome has the same optical radius as the 6" port for the 7-14mm. The Aquatica may have a larger optical radius being that the dome is 8" (but maybe not because it appears to be a portion of an 8" dome, and the 6" nauticam port, which the 4" dome is a part of is also a part of a larger than 6" dome). It's difficult to tell from the size of the dome itself. But there are other factors that affect image quality, like where the lens sits in relation to the dome. When you put a dome underwater, it actually creates a virtual image that is very close to the camera (very roughly 4 times the optical radius of the dome, for objects that are at infinity underwater). But the virtual image is strongly curved (like the dome) and so the corners of this virtual image are much closer to the camera than the centre. You need the depth of field just to get the corners sharp even for objects that are all far away underwater. However, larger domes and stopping down are not the only way to improve corner sharpness underwater. A simple +2 diopter can provide nice corner sharpness with the 9-18mm lens even with a small 4" dome (see Storker's post here): http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=51969&p=343523 That Aquatica housing does look beautiful though... Edited February 27, 2014 by coroander Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sea Lion 0 Posted February 28, 2014 It will accept the popular "off the shelves" optical sync cord with straight tip (as found on Inon strobes) and with angled plugs (as found on the Sea & Sea and Olympus Strobes), the option of having a Nikonos type bulkhead strobe connector is also being offered. From this connection you can run two strobes with a dual sync cord Thanks Jean. I'm trying to figure out from the photos in the press release where the optical sync cords will plug into the housing. I see two knobs on the top center with holes in them, but I assumed they were threaded sockets. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Viz'art 24 Posted February 28, 2014 Indeed that is where the opticals are plugged in, the Nikonos connector passthrough is on the right hand, top sideof the housing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sea Lion 0 Posted February 28, 2014 Indeed that is where the opticals are plugged in, the Nikonos connector passthrough is on the right hand, top sideof the housing Thanks - makes sense. So I guess if you wanted to attach a focusing light, that would have to go elsewhere like a strobe arm. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Viz'art 24 Posted February 28, 2014 There is still a 1/4-20 hole on top of the housing ready for attaching accessories such as a Focus light :-) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sea Lion 0 Posted February 28, 2014 (edited) There is still a 1/4-20 hole on top of the housing ready for attaching accessories such as a Focus light :-) Thanks - do I have the connections right in this graphic? I'm trying to figure out where the 1/4-20 hole is located Edited February 28, 2014 by Sea Lion Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KarenW 0 Posted March 1, 2014 Hi Karen, maybe you need only an adapter ring for a different diameter. Which port are you using? The macro port or the 12 - 50mm port? NAUTICAM Macro Port 65 for Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 60mm F2.8 Macro (with M67 thread ) or NAUTICAM Macro Port Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-50mm F3.5-6.3 EZ ( with M77 thread ) if its the second, you just need a ring with M77 to M67. Greetings, Wolfgang I ended up purchasing the new Subsee +10 that screws directly onto the Macro Port 65. I contacted ReefNet and they didn't make an adapter for the old style Subsee I had… so will try and sell that along with the adapter to suit the Nikon 105 Seatool port. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Viz'art 24 Posted March 1, 2014 Thanks - do I have the connections right in this graphic? I'm trying to figure out where the 1/4-20 hole is located Its right behind (and hidden by) the optical connector :-) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KarenW 0 Posted March 8, 2014 Some more pics of the adapter in situ... First the 50mm macro snout! You can see the control knob is nicely placed. IMG_20140131_105323.jpg The adapter is the correct length to allow full extension (close focus) of this lens. IMG_20140131_105152.jpg The gearing works correctly to allow manual focus but with the 50mm only allows fine adjustment since the oly gear has end stops. Fine for photos since AF can do most of the work but I shall need to come up with a custom gear for video. (n.b. it takes several full rotations to focus the 50mm infinity to close - and it is velocity sensitive too but you don't get much speed up on the knob) IMG_20140131_105021.jpg On with the dome - it actually goes on a few more mm than this pic shows and closes up the gap you see here. But then you have to re-adjust the petals and I couldn't be bothered for this little shoot IMG_20140131_104755.jpg From above IMG_20140131_104731.jpg The lovely 8mm sitting where it should IMG_20140131_104655.jpg Now the 11-22mm with "customised" (draught excluder) gear from a 7-14mm. A bit tricky to assemble as the knob has to stay in it's pulled out position. But it all works as it shold which means the even larger 7-14mm would fit in this rig too. IMG_20140131_104504.jpg With dome and per-02 extender. I do not think this is at the nodal point at all and need to get a per-01 instead. However there is no vignetting from the dome so it is worth testing in the water. IMG_20140131_104214.jpg And finally the lovely leak light showing I am leak free IMG_20140131_104312.jpg Simon Simon, what is the large looking "knob" on the LHS top of the housing. My housing has a flat looking plug with a straight cut in it for maybe a straight edge screwdriver. Is is possibly for sync cords? Cheers - Karen Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
frank70 3 Posted March 8, 2014 I think u mean the connection for the vacuumvalve. U can remove the large cap and then u can open or close the underlaying valve. It also has a o-ring so a second precosion against flooding. Frank Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Rudin 461 Posted March 8, 2014 (edited) Attached is a photo of the Nauticam NA-EM1 with the vacuum valve installed on the housing. This is an option and can be user installed. The valve comes with the pump for drawing the vacuum and I would guess that the Aquatica's system works much the same. Phil Rudin Edited March 8, 2014 by Phil Rudin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oktay_calisir 2 Posted March 9, 2014 And here one more view of the NA-EM1 with the optional Nauticam M14 Offset Vacuum Valve which comes with sync cable connection... Oktay Calisir Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish 5 Posted March 26, 2014 I have just acquired the E-M1 and Nauticam housing, and now I'm about to get the housing wet for the first time. I'd be interested if anyone has further refined the settings presets for underwater shooting (wide-angle, macro) since the earlier posts on this thread and for the E-M5? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Rudin 461 Posted March 30, 2014 I have a field review of this system in the current issue of UWPMAG.com. This is a free PDF download and you may find some of the information of use before your first dives with the system. Phil Rudin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stewart L. Sy 12 Posted April 3, 2014 Hi Folks, If anyone in the Portland, Seattle, Vancouver Area are interested in a touchy feel-y experience with the new Aquatica AE-M1 housing. We will have one on display at the SLS Photography Booth (No.812) at the Seattle Scuba H20 Adventure show this weekend! Cheers Stu Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kadu 5 Posted April 14, 2014 Hi guys i need a little help with my new OMD EM1, i need to fire the internal flash flipped down to fire the external strobes using a fiber optic cable, and for this i need to Change the Flash Mode so that the flash will fire even when flipped down, where i can configure this on the menu of OMD EM1 ?, i am using the new AE-M1 Aquatica Housing, if anyone have more informations for the correct setup for this housing i really appreciate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oktay_calisir 2 Posted April 14, 2014 Hi Kadu, The only way to fire the flash while flipped down is to set the camera to underwater mode...this will limit your control of the camera... I don't use Aquatica and would like to ask: why do you want to keep the flash flipped down? Oktay Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kadu 5 Posted April 14, 2014 because its impossible to put the flash open, probably have a set to use the flash flipped down with a full control, thas what i try to discovery, my Aquatica Housing arrive today and i start to test...and stop on this problem Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
breathless 1 Posted April 14, 2014 Hi Kadu, The only way to fire the flash while flipped down is to set the camera to underwater mode...this will limit your control of the camera... I don't use Aquatica and would like to ask: why do you want to keep the flash flipped down? Oktay Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I'm not sure about the EM-1, but on the EM-5 once you set underwater mode the flash will fire in the flipped down position, you can then change mode with the mode dial to whatever you normally use (eg M) and the flash will continue to fire in the flipped down position Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kadu 5 Posted April 14, 2014 Yes, but i don't now where i change the camera set for underwater mode, i found a White balance set caled underwater but, the flash still don't fire Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kadu 5 Posted April 14, 2014 I found !!! you need to customize the the FN1 or the FN 2 for this funcion The button can be used to choose between I and H while the underwater case is attached. Press and hold the button to return to the previous mode. If this option is selected, the FL-LM2 will fi re even when not raised. When using an ED12-50mmEZ lens with power zoom (E-ZOOM), the lens is automatically zoomed to the WIDE end or TELE end in accordance with I and H switching. page 99 and 100 from the OMD user manual, now work perfect !! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Viz'art 24 Posted April 14, 2014 Kadu, I just e-mailed you the procedure for the flash. Oktay, this allows the camera flash to trigger in the lower position (as opposed as having to raise it fully), keeping the flash down allows for a substantial reduction in height of the housing, it is the same procedure used by Olympus. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sea Lion 0 Posted April 14, 2014 Jean - could you please send me the procedure for the flash too? I'm still waiting for my dealer to send me the housing, but I want to be ready when it arrives! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davirond 2 Posted April 14, 2014 Looks to be documented on page 17 of the pt-ep11 https://support.olympus.co.jp/jp/support/dlc/archive/man_ptep11.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites