Jump to content
TomR1

Sigma 150MM macro F2.8-Any experiences/pictures out there?

Recommended Posts

After many trials i have concluded that I simply cannot house my Af-105-VR in my particular port/ housing setup because and extension of the lens means I must switch to a multi-piece port that the AF 105 wont fit in. However, unlike the 105 I can simply remove the limiting switch on the Sigma 150 and it will fit.

 

The result is that I am going to give the Sigma another try in Wakatobi in February.

 

On my first try it did not seem that the 150 mm gave me much more working distance over the 105 because the lens is longer. Therefore, using a subsee, the 105 seemed superior. However, I only spent 1 day with the rig. Any other experiences out there?

 

In addition an opinion was previously posted that whereas at 1:1 the 150 does not give more magnification than the 105, at less than 1:1 it will. Any experience with that?

 

Regards,

 

Tom

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... snip ...

 

In addition an opinion was previously posted that whereas at 1:1 the 150 does not give more magnification than the 105, at less than 1:1 it will. Any experience with that?

 

I think that comment came from me and may need a bit of clarification. At the closest focus distance all life-size macro lenses give, by definition, the same 1:1 magnification. However, shorter focal length macro lenses reach this magnification at shorter focus distance. For a single element lens, 1:1 magnification requires that the sensor-to-lens and lens-to-subject distance are the same and equal to twice the focal length of the lens. Multi-element macro lenses cheat by reducing the focal length as you focus closer. So your 105mm lens has a true 105mm focal length when focusing at infinity but is closer to 80mm or so at its minimum focus distance. This allows for internal focusing while keeping the total lens length reasonable. It also means that the working distance for a single element lens is twice the focal length, but a bit less for a multi-element macro lens.

 

With a bit of experimenting or googling you should be able to find the minimum focus and working distances for your lenses and I expect they will be about 1.5x longer for the 150mm lens. Whether the extra working distance is a boon or a bust depends on what you want to do. When shooting at the same distance the 150mm will magnify 1.5x that of a 100mm lens. It is like adding a 1.4x teleconverter to your 105mm lens without loosing a stop of light as a TC would do. But another way to look at it is that to create the same composition, you will need to shoot from a longer distance with the 150mm lens, and that breaks the golden rule of UW photography: get as close as possible. As a result most consider 150mm or longer macro lenses as specialty lenses that are great if your subject doesn't allow you to get as close as you would like, or to use in combination with a diopter to get closer and go beyond 1:1 magnification. However, for general use most prefer a ~105mm or even shorter macro lens.

 

Bart

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have some shots with the 150 if I can find them, but one thing to keep in mind is that while both lenses give you 1:1 adding the SubSee will give you more ultimate magnification than the 100.

Bill

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All-

 

I checked the lens specifications and found the Nikon AF-105-VR has a working distance of 6" and the Sigma 150 has a working distance of not quite 8"

 

I travel to Wakatobi yearly. 30m visability is routine so the effective shooting distance is controlled more by the ability of the strobes to penetrate the water than the effect of the water on what the lens sees.

 

If I get further away from the subject I seem to be able to light the subject more precisely and bring out the texture of the subject better.

 

I am wondering if others have experimented in this realm.

 

Tom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not exactly the same lens; I use a Sigma 180 macro for fish portraits mainly. Minimum working distance about 55cm which means I can't use it here in NL, but it works in tropical waters. See example: http://www.in2thedeep.com/Under/Portraits/i-TXTw5CH

--Rob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use it with a Subal flat port FP-102B

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those are som pretty clear pictures. However, did you shoot any macro subjects?

 

Tom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a few shots taken with the 5dmk3, Sigma 150 macro, Aquatica A5dmk3 Housing, AF macro port, 18462 extension.

 

http://stewartsy.com/anilao-2013/_mg_3019/

 

http://stewartsy.com/anilao-2013/_mg_3009/

 

http://stewartsy.com/anilao-2013/_mg_4090/

 

http://stewartsy.com/anilao-2013/_mg_3063/

 

Sorry for the external links, my Wordpress base site has the images in a gallery.

 

S.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Tom,

topside I did, look at the 'Bugs' section in my site www.in2thedeep.com I took the photos of the dragonflies with this lens.

I'm curious about how it behaves with a +10 subsee

--Rob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a +5 and +10 subsee that I will use with this lens. The shots are very clear. The underwater shots have limited POP from the strobes. The lighting is even and brings out the detail on the surfaces. It is an interesting look.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The fish portraits are made with a single strobe pointing forward (see attached photo for strobe position). Topside macro photo's with ambient light only (dragonflies backlit by early morning light).

--Rob

 

 

post-7565-0-42418800-1385757796_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will spend at leats a couple of days diving with the 150mm in Wakatobi. I will post subsea shots when I return. Thanks for the strobe placement shot. Generally I use dual side view (z240) at the same level as the lens.

 

Tom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone know how to calculate the minimum and maximum focus distance using a diopter on a 150mm lens. I have a Nikon T5 (1.5) and T6 (2.6) diopters and am wondering if I should try to mount one (or 2) inside my port. I also have +5 and +10 SubSee wet diopters. What do the experts suggest for clear water in Wakatobi?

 

Tom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The max focus distance from the optical center of the diopter is the same as the focal length of the diopter and does not depend on which lens is behind it. For +10 and +5 the focal lengths are 100 and 200mm, respectively (although I'm not sure if that applies to above or below water conditions). I don't know the nomenclature that Nikon uses.

The min focus distance does depend on the lens you use. I used to have a spreadsheet that would calculate all of that plus impact on magnification, aperture, etc. but am not sure where it is, assuming I still have it somewhere. Perhaps there are websites that will do this for you.

 

In practise; I would just go out with the +5 SubSee first which will offer plenty of challenge for a start.

 

Bart

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bart,

 

Thanks. The maximum focus distance for the 6T is 13.6" and for the 5T is 26.25". After you posted your explanation I looked this up. It seems that I should mount one or the other (dry) because one rarely takes successful shots underwater from beyond that distance. I have used both the +5 and +10 SubSee (wet) on my 105 so I know how difficult it is.

 

So the next question for the gurus on this board is what is the difference in magnification at about a foot using the 5T or 6T versus using nothing on the Sigma 150?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tom,

 

If I remember right, the filter size on the Sigma 150mm is 72mm and the thread on the Nikon T5 and T6 close-up lenses is 62mm. So they would not work on the Sigma 150.

 

Fred

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a step down ring and am using a DX camera so it ought to work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So the next question for the gurus on this board is what is the difference in magnification at about a foot using the 5T or 6T versus using nothing on the Sigma 150?

 

To get a true answer you have to go out and try. If you can't wait, the link below mentions a spreadsheet you can download to do these kind of calculations and a link to a document with optical formulas. I think you will find it more enjoyable to take your camera on a dive and find out the experimental way.

 

Bart

 

http://www.jeffree.co.uk/pages/macro-lens-calcs.html

Edited by Glasseye Snapper

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a quick chart from the Aquatica website with respect to magnifications possible using the more popular macro lens lengths:

 

Maximum magnification with popular lens:

 

from: http://www.aquatica.ca/en/accessories_closeup.html

 

Lens Close-up lens +5 Close-up lens +10

60mm 1.2:1 1.5:1

100mm 1.5:1 2.1:1
105mm 1.5:1 2.2:1
150mm 1.9:1 2.8:1
200mm 2.3:1 3.5:1

S.

Edited by Stewart L. Sy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stewart,

 

That is fascinating info. The 150 with +5 may be much easier to deal with than the 105 with a +10.

 

Thanks,

 

Tom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have some interesting options. It appears that I have a port combo which will allow me to mount one or two dry diopters on the Sigma 150. I am thinking I can mount the 5t (+1.3) and then use the +5 when I want and leave the +10 on the boat. I can still focus within 24". However the +5 wet will be further from the 150MM. Anyone know how that affects things?

 

Tom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Same same, i love the 150 sigma, a real pleasure to shot...like it was mention before on clear tropical water the distance is not realy a problem as long as the subjet it smaller than 20cm and on water with more particules: i arrange my strobe very much in front of the housing to minimize the Light /subjet distance, me beeing still far from the fish, it usually does not scare it.

the mouving subjet are not scare ( see the photo below: this fish is so shy that this shot will be impossible if not with 150 ) : http://www.flickr.com/photos/101623137@N02/9730953994/

 

with the subsee + 10 , i found it very difficult , but i presume it is also because my lense is 1cm away from the dome end, making the distance beteewn the dome and the lens too long ...someone has any idea ?

but you get realy close shot : http://www.flickr.com/photos/101623137@N02/9866059744/

 

with the + 5 it become resonable and easy to use...

 

after using the 150 for more than a year ( all my last macro shot on my flickr galery are with 150 ) i can't go with another lens ( i try again 2 times the 60 AFS that i previously used, but it seems that the possibility are better with the 150 ), i really get use to it and it is great.

 

enjoy wakatobi,

 

Gilles

Edited by Gilbubblefish

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used the handy spreadsheet and came up with the following:

 

150mm w/ +5 subsee. 3 1/2 (95.56mm) inch working distance 1.9:1 magnification max F/stop is f/22

105mm w/+10 subsee 2 1/4 (58.16mm) inch working distance 2.2:1 magnification max F/stop is f/32

150mm w/+10 subsee 2 3/8 (64.66mm) inch working distance 2.9:1 magnification max F/stop is F/22

 

T.D Priest indicated that 2 8" arms were barely long enough to get the strobs in the proper position and suggested additional extensions or a remote strobe and a buddy.

 

Regards and Merry Christmas,

 

Tom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sponsors

Advertisements



×
×
  • Create New...