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JohnnyQuest

On-Camera Flash Setting for Fiber Optic Trigger

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I'd like some advice on power settings for my on-camera flash to trigger my strobes. I have a Canon 7D in an Aquatica housing with two YS-D1s. I want to minimize recycle time. If I reduce the on-camera power, I'm thinking that even a low power flash will trigger my strobes. If I have the strobes on TTL, I'm thinking that they will mimic the low power setting of the on-camera flash, so I should shoot manual. Am I thinking of that right? Any advice on this in general or how low I can/should go on the power of the on-camera flash would be appreciated. Thanks.

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For minimum recycle time, set you on camera flash to manual (no pre-flash)on the minimum setting. Set your D1's to single flash (no pre-flash indicated by a single lightning bolt on the D1). This is how I set mine up for wide angle using 3 YS-D1's on an Aquatica AD800 housing.

Edited by diverdoug1

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You can set your hot shoe flash to 1/128th power and still trigger the D1's. Have several customers with the exact same setup as you do. Set the D1 in single lightning bolt mode (manual) and adjust power via the strobe's power dial. 1 thing to remember is your camera will slow down from 8fps to 3fps. Not really a big deal when shooting UW but you should be aware of that. Oh, and of course, battery life will be markedly shorter.

 

S.

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You can set your hot shoe flash to 1/128th power and still trigger the D1's. Have several customers with the exact same setup as you do. Set the D1 in single lightning bolt mode (manual) and adjust power via the strobe's power dial. 1 thing to remember is your camera will slow down from 8fps to 3fps. Not really a big deal when shooting UW but you should be aware of that. Oh, and of course, battery life will be markedly shorter.

 

S.

I have not noticed a big difference in battery life when shooting @ 1/128 power.

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Thank you both! Ok, this is a dumb question, but...

What's the difference between lowering the flash output and reducing the flash compensation? I've tried reducing the compensation and didn't see any change in recycle time. I thought that reduced output (evidently not or maybe only lowering it 1 or 2 stops wasn't enough).

Also, it seem counterintuitive that lowering the output would use more battery power. Can you elaborate on that?

 

Edited by JohnnyQuest

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At 1/128th power , changes in flash compensation will not have significant effect on recycle times.

Edited by diverdoug1

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Ok, one more question. My YS-D1 manual say the recycle time is 2 -3 seconds. If that's the case, then lowing the camera flash power will mean that the strobe recycle time will control. Maybe taking them off preflash will improve recycle time, but shouldn't I be concerned that the camera will fire a few frames/sec while the strobes only fire far less often? Won't I end up with a lot of unlit shots because the strobes can't keep up? Thanks.

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If your strobes are set at full power, they very well may be the rate limiting factor in your effective shooting rate. Lower manual strobe power settings and fully charged batteries will decrease strobe recycle times.

Edited by diverdoug1

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2-3 Second recycle time is based on a full power dump from the D1. If you lower your flash power to around half power, the D1 can keep up with your 7D firing at 3 fps. I shoot my D1's at just under half power and it keeps up with my 5dmk3 at 6 fps.

 

Of course, good NiMH cells (Maha Powerex) help too.

 

There's no point in shooting full power on your pop-up flash when shooting in manual, you just need to trigger the D1, then control strobe power on strobe.

 

S.

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Okay Stewie.......there seems to be an echo in here. :)

Edited by diverdoug1

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Dougie, great minds think alike. =). Johnnyquest, 1 thing of note, a customer of mine shoots a LOT, and he actually fried the on camera flash of his d800. So he's now resorted to N5 cords in his Aquatica D800 housing.

 

S.

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