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This is looking really good ! A little elbow grease and sandpaper, then it will look

like a pro housing.

 

Thank you for sharing your development process (schematic, simulation and pictures).

It really is fascinating !

:notworthy:

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You are welcome. I think sharing more than just a couple of pics of the finished product is important especially for those who would like to do something similar. I will write in more detail at a better time but now its late again so a single pic will have to do.

 

The past few days have been long and I have not gotten enough sleep but I hope and think that now the most difficult parts are almost finished. Today I turned the port which turned out pretty beautiful if I may say so. The surface finish you can get by turning with sharp carbide inserts is pretty amazing. A little polishing and the part is ready for anodization. The port still needs mounting holes which I will probably make tomorrow.

 

post-45228-0-64937400-1390518120_thumb.jpg

 

I was planning to get the parts anodized by a professional but due to the tight schedule I might do it myself. Tomorrow I will shop around for DIY anodizing stuff; buckets, battery acid and some dyes. This way I can also anodize the buttons whenever I want to, although there is no guarantee of the quality of the results. My coworkers also take part in the costs and building the setup so that will make my job a bit easier.

Edited by T.J.L.
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This is looking good ! I guess making a bayonet system requires higher accuracy

than screws. Good luck on anodising all the parts !

 

I would like to build a 4 inches dome, but finding the right inexpensive dome is quite complicated.

Edited by FanchGadjo

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Yes, I think a bayonet would be much more difficult to manufacture and since I am not planning to be changing the port frequently, the screw mounting is much easier and more robust.

 

The first tests with anodizing were not very encouraging. I did get the anodization working at least some times but since I do not have proper dyes I may not get any color to the part. I bought some food and cloth dyes and this far I have tested two of them. Did not work.

 

4 inch dome would be excellent for such a small housing as this. If someone knows where to get the dome, please tell me.

 

A quick pic from yesterday. Today, I will sand and polish the body and the port and do some experimenting with the anodization process. Then I'll just need to make the buttons, dials and latch parts. And glue the dome to the port, I am a little nervous about that. If all goes well, I have enough time. If something goes wrong or does not work immediately, then I will be in a hurry.

post-45228-0-32404500-1390637747_thumb.jpg

Edited by T.J.L.

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I hope I will sometime have more time to update this thread but now I really don't. Here are a couple of photos from the past few days.

 

The body after milling.

post-45228-0-48279600-1390931881_thumb.jpg

 

Body after about four to five hours of sanding and an hour of polishing.

post-45228-0-80783500-1390931883_thumb.jpg

 

And the body and port after having them anodized by the professionals. The surface looks excellent and it only cost me 30 euros.

post-45228-0-92540500-1390931878_thumb.jpg

 

Still have to make the buttons and dials. I still have two days :).

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Wow, that looks absolutely fantastic! I might have been tempted to leave the polished finish, you don't see many housings that looks like custom chrome motorcycle accessories, but I know it wouldn't stay that way for long in salt water. Great work!

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Wow, that looks absolutely fantastic! I might have been tempted to leave the polished finish, you don't see many housings that looks like custom chrome motorcycle accessories, but I know it wouldn't stay that way for long in salt water. Great work!

 

The polished finish looked pretty gorgeous but the only thing I can think of that could preserve it would be lacquer coating. And it probably won't stand any scratches or bumps. Maybe if I would have machined the housing of platinum...

 

Or probably some stainless steels could withstand the salt water well enough. But then the polishing would take days instead of hours and the machining would be a nightmare.

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really amazing, love watching the progress on this, the anodized parts look amazing. looking forward to seeing more!

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It is looking good at every step ! I hope you will make it in time for your trip.

Let us know when the dome is glued.

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Dome glued, latches fitted (somewhat) and about half of the buttons turned. Still have to cut the rods for the buttons and make the dial knobs inside the housing. Plus some drilling etc. I probably won't have time to anodize the buttons and dials or to make the "lens hood" (whatever its called) but I think the housing will be operational tomorrow. Now a few hours of sleep and then back to work. Our flight leaves at 11 pm so I've still got almost a full day :). Not in a hurry or anything... I just hope that everything works as planned.

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Sort of almost in time... Spent the whole Thursday machining the buttons before I finally had to leave to the airport. Pretty much every piece of the housing is sort of ready but the housing has not been fully assembled a single time.

 

Now we are in Hong Kong for the second day. The housing is packed in my backpack and I haven't even unpacked it yet. I hope when I put it all together, everything will work fine. We'll see about that...

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Capital DIY! And just in time, now lets see if you dare house the camera in the first dive!

 

Cheers! /O

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Hell yeah! I assembled the housing yesterday evening and tested it today on a snorkling trip. Not a single drop of leakage and all the buttons except the video button work. Now after an hour of tinkering with leatherman and a lighter also the video button works. Pics later.

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Here come the pics.

 

Front. No dome shield (whatever it is called) yet. I will try to impovise it from a laminated restaurant menu or some other suitable plastic sheet ;).

post-45228-0-90779500-1391768044_thumb.jpg

 

Back. Too bad that the buttons are not anodized and they started to oxidize immediately at the first snorkling session so they have already lost their shine.

post-45228-0-72944600-1391768073_thumb.jpg

 

Camera attached to the back cover.

post-45228-0-66023700-1391768094_thumb.jpg

 

Trigger button and its 3D printed extension. The grey blob at the end of the video button's rod is the one I improvised yesterday. I think I got some nice video today.

post-45228-0-89573300-1391768119_thumb.jpg

 

I'm having some problems getting images with proper focus. I'll try to find the proper settings and upload some underwater pics too.

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This looking really good (have said it already ?! :) )! Congratulations on making it waterproof,

and too bad for the buttons. I guess you will have to do another set when you will be back home.

 

No dome shield (whatever it is called) yet.

I think it is called a sunshade.

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Just returned a couple of days ago from the liveaboard trip. The camera housing proved to be a...Tattadadaa!... Success!! The housing has been down to 35 meters with the camera and everything was working fine. Of course I did the first dives without the camera and on the very first dive I had a couple of drops of leakage at the end of the dive. I do not know where they came from but after that I did not see a single drop of leakage.

 

The housing is not perfect, the latches need adjusting but that's difficult to do on the road so it will have to wait. There are also a couple of cracks in the back cover. It has developed cracks around the mounting holes of the camera tray because in the hurry I took too short screws for mounting it and now the screws penetrate only a couple of millimeters inside the back cover. A temporary solution to this problem was to loosen the screws since the camera tray does not have to be very rigidly attached. This reduces the stress on the polycarbonate and hopefully prevents further cracking since the cracks would soon advance to the sealing surface of the back cover O-ring. The buttons are starting to look pretty oxidized so for the next vacation I will make a new back cover and buttons. But that will take just a couple of days. For the next vacation I will also have to get a red filter and maybe a wide angle lens with autofocus. And a strobe or just a powerful light mounted on the housing.

I also improvised the sunshade from a cookie box cover :). I'll upload some sample pictures later when I end up somewhere where I have decent network connection.

Edited by T.J.L.

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Congratulations on a successful outcome! It is so great when a project that you sweat over pays off. Now I'm looking forward to your photos.

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GREAT JOB...I am just in the beginning of similar project (not so sophisticated of course - like FEM etc:)), but different material (epoxy resin) - for GH3 and G6. The issue I am facing now is the groove for o-ring (connection between front and rear part). What profile did you use? Is it perpendicular to case body axis or slanting (to stabilize the ring at position). I have a concern the ring will get off if the groove will be without "inclination" Looking forward to outcomes of your pics....

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Hello again and sorry about the long silence. We returned back home to snowy Finland last Friday. I'll upload som pics when I have sorted them and adjusted the colors a little. They are very blue/green since I did not have a red filter.

 

GREAT JOB...I am just in the beginning of similar project (not so sophisticated of course - like FEM etc:)), but different material (epoxy resin) - for GH3 and G6. The issue I am facing now is the groove for o-ring (connection between front and rear part). What profile did you use? Is it perpendicular to case body axis or slanting (to stabilize the ring at position). I have a concern the ring will get off if the groove will be without "inclination" Looking forward to outcomes of your pics....

 

Sounds interesting. How are you going to shape the housing from epoxy?

 

My o-ring groove profile is simply rectangular. This is mainly because it is milled and I did not have a bull end mill to make roundings to the bottom of the groove. But I also do not think that the roundings or the shape of the groove is very important. I really do not see how the o-ring could get off the groove when the front and rear parts are pressed together by the latches and the pressure. In some applications the shape of the groove may be important but at least in my case a rectangular groove has worked nicely.

 

BTW. I used info from this site http://o-ring.info/en/downloads/technical-handbook/ to design the grooves. Just remember that when designing the seals for the buttons, the friction of the o-ring is larger when the o-ring is squeezed more.

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