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Olympus O-MD E-M1 and Sea&Sea YS-D1 compatibility issues

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Hi there sorry if this has came up before but can't get an answer so here goes.i use the olympus O-MD E-M1 camera and have just upgrades at the same time to sea&sea YS-D1 strobes now the strobes are new within last 4 months with all up to date firmware and camera is on latest 1.4 now shooting with f22 and fastest sync speed of 1/320 strobe on TTL and EV dial on zero shooting macro all is ok a bit over exposed but ok so when you adjust EV dial to compensate this is when camera and strobe goes out of sync if you go a little further in distance to subject say an extra 8" then you either get a pure dark photo or if you go say + 1.0 on EV dial you then catch the shutter half way so top of photo is dark bottom you can see picture this is a sync problem to eliminate the problem you then have to reduce shutter speed to 1/160 or lower.my YS110a do not have this problem anyone any suggestion or if you have same setup my hen please give it a go at same settings as above

 

Boyd

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There is a discussion about a similar issue in the tips section. In short seems that with the YS-D1 you can sync reliably only at 1/180 or 1/160

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As recently as July 25, 2014 Sea & Sea has stated that the YS-D1 strobe works in conjunction with the Olympus E-PL cameras and the Olympus OMD cameras including the E-M1 in DS-TTLII, Slave TTL and Manual. If this is true then the strobe should sync at all of the shutter speeds that the cameras on-board flash sync's at when using fiber optic cables. Since the E-M1 syncs at 1/320th the YS-D1 strobe should work at that speed. All that the the YS strobe is basically doing is mincing the on-board strobe when it flashes and since the shutter is open for 1/320th of a second and the strobe only turns on for only about 1/1000th of a second of less then the shutter should be open for the flash to pass through. If you are getting proper exposures with the on-board strobe at 1/320th all else being equal then you should be getting proper exposures with the S&S strobe if it is properly setup.

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The fact the strobe is compatible doesn't mean it will sync at max internal flash speed. Indeed there are multiple users of OMD-E M1/5/10 that fail to sync the YS-D1 at the advertised max speed be those 1/250 or 1/320. Users of inon strobes and previous sea and sea models seem also to have no problems

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So what you are saying and I believe what I have said above is that the strobe should be working correctly with the Olympus cameras according to S&S and it is not. Seems that those strobes should be going back to S&S to resolve the problem.

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What am saying is that the functionality works but sea and sea or any manufacturer do not make any promises in terms of max sync speed. So I think even if you return the strobes you won't get much out of it especially as the camera manufactures doesn't guarantee this speed with third party flashes let alone underwater strobes

Edited by Interceptor121

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So are you saying that some of the YS-D1 strobes work with the Olympus cameras at max sync speed and other YS-D1 strobes do not. The strobe was introduced at DEMA in 2011 and I reviewed the strobe for uwpmag.com using an Olympus E-M5 in a Nauticam housing and It worked fine in both DS-TTLII, slave and manual modes at 1/250th. Since the Nov/Dev 2012 review the strobes have had a verity of problems including the battery issue which have always been S&S strobe problems not the camera.

 

It appears you are saying that owners should just accept the fact that the strobe does not work as advertised and move on without demanding S&S address the problem.

 

I also have friends who have used these strobes with the EM-1 at 1/320th without an issue, seems a bit odd that some will work and other will not and yet this is an acceptable problem for some.

Edited by Phil Rudin

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I will be taking a look at this when we get back from the Sea of Cortez.

Bill

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It is possible that since the time Phil tested the strobe some manufacturing changes have occurred, for example replacing some of the internal electric parts like the trigger relay with inferior quality ones, and now performance has got worse. I have no idea why Sea and Sea would change the components of a working item other than to contain costs or otherwise I have to think this is just poor or lack of quality control if there are a large number of units out there that are not performing like the early ones.

 

What I am saying is that strictly speaking the fact that some of the strobes sync at higher speed than others does not make them incompatible just less performing and there is no declaration of performance standards for underwater strobes other than power and recycle time so you are not guaranteed the strobe will perform at the X-sync of the camera so it will be hard for those unlucky users to appeal to any consumer rights.

Edited by Interceptor121

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I just received 2 new YS-D1 and plan to use it with EM1. I am a bot concerned now and I will report back here as soon as I have some results.

If they do not synch properly at 1/320 than I will for sure not accept that behavior.

Synch speed was one of the reasons in my decision when choosing a camera for uw- use.

I could live with 1/250 but not really anything much longer. If paying that price for a flash it should work properly.

My understanding of working properly includes working at the shortest synch speed of the camera.

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I just received 2 new YS-D1 and plan to use it with EM1. I am a bot concerned now and I will report back here as soon as I have some results.

If they do not synch properly at 1/320 than I will for sure not accept that behavior.

Synch speed was one of the reasons in my decision when choosing a camera for uw- use.

I could live with 1/250 but not really anything much longer. If paying that price for a flash it should work properly.

My understanding of working properly includes working at the shortest synch speed of the camera.

I think you better test them right away and if they don't work send them back within the allowed 7 days return no question asked clause

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For now I try to stay optimistic and hope my units will work fine. But I will test at the weekend.

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When Boyd and others started these threads no mention was made about what E-M1 housing was being used. Any comment on which housings are having problems.

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My version of the Nauticam em-1 housing and my versions of the D1 appear to be working correctly, but I will try to test this a bit more scientifically when I get back from the Rocio Del Mar trip.

Bill

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The most likely scenario where you get an issue is small apertures. Try f/22 ISO 200 1/250 or 1/320. At those settings the strobe is the only light source. Some people don't notice the issue when they shoot wide angle as the ambient light is already sufficient to expose the shot correctly so the curtain issue doesn't show

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The first attempts with my own gear don't show any problems. I use new Nauticam housing, EM1, 2 new YS-D1 and shot TTL at 1/320 and at apertures between f5.6 and f22 also with EV flag correction.

Today I might have the chance for another test run.

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That's in pitch black room with a focus light or outdoor? You need to simulate the scenario or a macro shot to rule out any problems. So your current setting at the lowest ISO is an environment so dark you need a focus light or even betel yet manual focus

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That's in pitch black room with a focus light or outdoor? You need to simulate the scenario or a macro shot to rule out any problems. So your current setting at the lowest ISO is an environment so dark you need a focus light or even betel yet manual focus

Thats underwater in realistic conditions. Thats what I am interested in.

But yes, I did some shots where the f-stop and exposure would lead to massive underexposure if there was just natural light.

But for sure I did not test all possible situations. Anyways so far I have found no reason to complain.

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I have experienced that tests on land are generally not as reliable to simulate underwater conditions and then found myself having the problem later

So I rather put it at the harshest end on land to at least know when the problem shows before wasting images on a dive hence my suggestion obviously this is a personal decision

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I agree with you - and while I couldn't go for dives I took it underwater snorchling in a lake where it gets dark in 3 meters depth a couple of times.

I did this not only to test synch but also to get used to the handling of my new equipment before going to my next dive trip.

As I said - so far I could not detect any synch problems with my YS-D1 at 1/320. In 3 weeks I will have a couple of dives and can either confirm or complain ;)

 

The thread does not seem to get that much attention. I wonder how many people did/do find synch problems with this combination.

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Hi guys sorry for starting this thread and then had to go away on business for a couple of weeks but paratom could you try as it works on land as well set up camera to f22 and at 1/320 on camera set the EV dial in ys-d1 to 0 (zero) take photo it should be ok then try and adjust EV dial up and down this is where problem start.take photo with light background set to TTL and adjust EV dial to say 1.0 take photo you should see the camera shutter come into picture from top

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Hi guys sorry for starting this thread and then had to go away on business for a couple of weeks but paratom could you try as it works on land as well set up camera to f22 and at 1/320 on camera set the EV dial in ys-d1 to 0 (zero) take photo it should be ok then try and adjust EV dial up and down this is where problem start.take photo with light background set to TTL and adjust EV dial to say 1.0 take photo you should see the camera shutter come into picture from top

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Hi guys forgot to add that at these settings for macro are ok but if you go about 1.5 to 2 feet from subject then the shutter problem happens

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Sorry for asking this but just to make sure:

Do you have RC mode switched off? (I ask because I read that RC mode can lead to flash synch problems if you do not use Olympus flash)

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