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Marc Furth

Modeling light recommendation

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I need a recommendation as to a good dive light I could buy for a modeling light. I’d like it to be wide angle and defused if possible, Ikelite ?

 

Marc

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Try the Hartenberger compact light. It comes with - or maybe it's an extra, I'm not sure - a kit containing an alternate reflector dome to convert it to wide-angle diffused. (It won't blow up, so you don't need to defuse it!).

 

It's easy to drill holes in the handle to attach an Ultralite (or other brand) ball connector. The power control (25%, 50%, 75%, 100%, 125%) is on the rear of the light, which makes it very easy to use mounted on the housing.

 

I used to use a D4 for this. The Hartenberger is more compact than the D4, very bright, and the variable power options are very useful. I now use it on all macro dives, not just night dives.

 

Robert Delfs

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Hi!

 

I'd recommend a Willixhofer light http://www.willixhofer.at (German website only). There is a clamp available to screw it to either a camera wing (for video) or to a strobe arm. It features a 5 step power control and SOS function. It is powerd by a 4Ah 12V NMH battery that is charged temperature controlled (wide range charger with many adaptors). Very slim design.

I've tested quite a number of lights before (Hartenberger, Kowalski, MB-Sub, ScubaPro, Diverite) but finally decided to go for the Willixhofer.

They have a version with a GU5.3 socket (UT 27 T-V HLX) where you can use lamps with built in reflector. You get them between 10° and 60° (preferrable Osram IRC for long battery life http://www.osram.com/products/general/tung.../irc_range.html) or even full-sprectral daylight (http://www.soluxtli.com/) although only up to 36° beamspreads.

I got the solux lamp recently and will do a few tests with it in Lembeh next week. Results by end of June.

 

Helge ;-)=)

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Thanks for the input guys,

 

Willixhofer, and Hartenberger both look like they make nice units.

 

Does anyone make flourescent underwater lights or newer LED type, their very efficient ?

 

Some years back I made twin video lights from 26watt 56 k PL type flourescent lights. Very soft light with 200 watts of power and more than enough burn time for any length dive using a 7 amp battery. The only draw back was the bulk of the system, not that I need that much light.

 

Marc

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Hi!

 

I heard of a few people experimenting with LED. I think there are a few lights that may be equipped with a LED head (although I lost the links somehow). I tried to convert a small Peli torch years ago but the light was a bit too much towards the blue end of the spectrum (I used cheaper LEDs for the test) and people had pretty pale taint, even to the eye of a seasoned diver ;-) Also, even the more expensive ones sometimes have a very inconsistent spectrum. This is at least not pleasing the eye (you'll get accustomed to it) but may have a bad impact on image quality. IMO you should use LEDs only when the light is switched off in sync with the shutter if you use a strobe or set at least the white balance optimized for the LEDs if you use them as the only source of light.

Peli (http://www.peli.com) has a very bright torch (the M6 LED, which isn't submersible, what a pity!) but some others, less bright but submersible to 150m/500ft (Sabrelite™ LED).

 

The biggest problem is the beamspread of LEDs. They range well below 30° and it is hard to get evenly distributed light when combining more LEDs. You'd have to arrange them very carefully on a bent surface to get a wide beam.

 

Helge ;-)=)

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I use the Sunray Mod Light from LMI. Check it out at Mod Light.

 

It is very bright and diffuse. I use it as my primary light on a night dive. I also use it when required for focus assistance with my CP5000. Expensive, but a very nice light.

 

HTH,

 

John

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Hi John,

A third option and nice compact unit at that, but what’s with these prices.

 

I called Ikelite and ask them for their recommendations and they thought I should but a Mini C lite ?

 

Anyone have any experience with a UK Cannon HID 100, comes with a wide diffuser and host of battery options ?

 

I can’t justify the higher priced units at this time, but I guess you get what you pay for. Anyway their must be a compromise some where ?

 

I’ll keep looking, their is a dive festiful this weekend in Fort Lauderdale "Ocean Fest " I'll get a chance to check out all the goodies.

 

Marc

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Marc,

 

I've got both the Mini-C lite and the UK Light Canon HID. If I had to choose one or the other as a focus light, I'd pick the mini-C simply because of size, price, and ease of use. That being said, it's underpowered and the output is a bit too yellow. The UK HID is waaaay too big and heavy to use as a focus light and is very finnicky in use. With all HID lights you have to be careful how often you turn them on / off and how long you leave them on (minimum) before you turn them off.

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Anyone using this Textite Trex 6000 Ex 60, looks like a good compromise. Has array of 60 white LED’s and was originally made for video use. It’s rather small and has good burn time. Online it can be purchased for $225.00. Link http://www.cfrlights.com/tektite.html

 

 

Marc

 

trek6000.jpg

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I use a Sunray Mod Light from LMI also and it is a good package. The unit is small with a Lithium Ion battery and a dove tail mounting base. The dovetail base allows for a very clean installation to a housing that has mounting bosses. My Aquatica S2 housing accomodates this nicely.

 

The light itself is very, very even. NO HOT SPOT! Its output is adjustable to three levels and operation is very simple.

 

LMI includes a 2.5 hr smart charger that is compact and light weight. This is a huge plus since we all are packing many tons of chargers, batteries, laptops, etc. around with us in pursuit of digital excellence.

 

LMI is overcoming the redesign/recall of this light. If you can wait, then hold on to check out their newly redesigned and improved MOD light. I think you'll like what you see.

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The Sunray Mod light looks great, but $400 plus mounting hardware.......geez!! and in my case times 2 :shock:

 

are the Q40's that bad or limiting?

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I bought the Tektite TREK 6000 EX60 it arrived Friday afternoon. After playing around with it I’ve come to the conclusion it was not the right choice for me. Don’t get me wrong it’s a very nice light and it’s very high tech. It’s has a very nice color temperature close to daylight if not a bit on the cool side. The beam angle is wide with just a small slight hot spot. I’d say with out really testing it underwater that it’s range is about 10 to 15 feet. The claim is the higher color temperature or wave length cuts through the water further than standard incandescent light.

 

What’s disappointing is the over all brightness or the lumen output. I expected more from a light that I just spent $ 250. for.

 

I guess I was a little confused with watt ratings verses the actual lumen rating and the claimed efficiency. I’m used to comparing the light output of your standard incandescent light bulb to the amount of light it puts out. From now on I’ll look at the lumen ratings and than the watts rating to judge the over all efficiency.

 

I’m not fussy I just want as much diffused light as I can get with about 1 hour of steady burn time in the smallest package I can afford . It looks to me that I’ll be sending this unit back on Monday and buying the UK 100 HID light. It has over 400 lumen compared to 126 for the TREK 6000. It’s a lot bigger in size and heaver than the TREK but it’s not halve the weight of my Nikon SB 104, and it’s a $100. cheaper than the TREK.

 

I think in the long run solid state light emitting diodes will dominate all future lighting devices including dive lights. All the major manufactures are working on developing new more powerful and efficience lights. Look to the near future of dive lights that use multiple arrays of Luxeon Star led’s. In comparison 3 Luxeon III stars put out 240 lumen at 12 watts compared to 126 lumen at 8 watts for 60 standard white LED’s as used in the TREK. Luxeon stars are already being used in flash lights, just not dive lights that I know of ?

Marc

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I finally got the UK Canon 100 HID and I’m happy with it so far. I’ve installed the diffuser and the arm which holds it on my housing. It’s a little on the large size buy everything about my housing is large. I’ve posted a picture with the UK light but it’s not how the lights will be positioned.

 

Marc

 

s2housinguklight.jpg

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Hi Marc,

 

Are you diving with the Kodak now, or the Canon 1DmkII?

 

Thanks for posting a photo of your rig.

 

Cheers

James

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Hi James,

I got cold feet and chickened out at the last minute and gave up my pre-order position for the Canon MK II. .It didn’t make sense to change at that time and buy everything new for a camera that wasn’t fully tested. After waiting many months for the first Kodak that came out and then reading all the negative reviews, I was really happy I canceled it to. So I bought two new Nikon VR lens, the 80-400 and the 24-120 which I really like.

 

I’ll be sticking with my Fuji S2 Pro till a newer version or a another Nikon camera comes out that will except all my lens and flash equipment. I guess I’m a Nikon man at heart and will continue to be so. Anyway the Fuji is a great camera as you know, and I’ll be shooting with it for sometime to come.

 

Marc

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I use a UK SL6 which can be mounted with any C light mounting adapter from your arm manufacturer. It is plenty bright even in the deep dark water I swim in and it has a simple flip switch that is easy to manipulate. I get a whole week of diving from one set of C batteries in it. For $35 US and another $30+/- for a mounting bracket it is pretty affordable too.

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I've been playing with some alternatives for this since the Sunray has been delayed.

 

First, Epoques EL-1225 is a 20w Halogen bulb powered by a NiMh battery. Instead of a 3 power switch like Light & Motion employed, this has a dimmer control. I expect about 50 min. of burn time at full power. The dimpled reflector provides one of the smoothest beam spreads I've ever seen from any light. I'm really fond of this light, and will get it underwater next week.

 

Light & Motion has also announced its Sunray Classic Mod, which is another interesting alternative. I think it will be a great solution for compact Tetra housings, since only the light head is mounted on the housing, and the battery is attached to the tripod screw or the strobe arm.

 

http://www.digitaldiver.net/news.php?story=58

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